I just rebuilt the 40 horse in our ‘64. I adjusted the value at .008/.012. Started it up for the first time and the engine sounded like it was falling apart! Scared the crap outta me! I finally tracked it down to loose valves. So I adjusted to .008 ... better but still too noisy. Readjusted to .006; better but still clacking! Finally settled at .004 and it sounds pretty good. Hopefully, things will “seat” better over the next few thousand miles and get even quieter on the next few adjustments.

Am i the only person that snickered at "smell your gas"? another great vid, Chris. you and your bugs are the bomb.

Thanks Chris, I have seen almost all your videos and I learned a lot, right now I am working on the restoration of my 67 bug but I don't have to much experience and with your videos is so easy to do the job . thanks one more time

thanks for your input. I had another mechanic at another garage try that and it worked. Squeaky brakes are like nails on a chalkboard.

you should make a video on how to adjust your valves

The oil i use is Valvoline racing oil 10w 40 because it has more zinc in it which my mechanic says help with wear of a vw engine

Chris, i had a 61 with the 40 hp and i remember the dealer telling me 008 and 012, if they are loose it will just be a little noisy but too tight and you'll burn the valves

I would like 2 say thanks 4 your advice on using fish wirer to pull the dome light wiring through the dome light hole. It worked perfect .

Swepco oil, Willhoit Porsche of Long Beach, CA, runs it on their 356 performance engines.

Good advice Chris. Hope you don't mind, I've posted it up on Volks Culture's Facebook page

Follow the Bentley manual for valve lash, unless using an aftermarket cam....

Here in the Philippines I read from vwcp.org that some vw owners put diesel oil on their engines. The temperature here in the Philippines is hot. They say it keeps the engine cool because of the viscosity of diesel oils. The only downside they say diesel oil get easily gets dirty and frequent oil change is a must. Since it's cheap it ok. Personally I have not tried it. I use mobile oil and pertua oil additive. :-)

Like your videos. recently looked at the one to static time your bug. I know it's an easy task but a novice may want to know that the car should be in neutral in order to turn the pulley.

@brighteyefilms I see. No need for the magnet from old speakers. Tnx. :-)

Big mistake -- retorquing the heads the way you say is NOT right. It can't be because you completely ignore the upper head nuts! There is no way that you can correctly retorque a head and ignore half of the head nuts. To do it correctly, however, is a huge hassle because the upper nuts are blocked by the tin and to get to them you basically have to remove all of the stuff on top of the case,

@brighteyefilms that must be the best job in the world, here where i live there is only about a dusin beetles left.

Interesting video.whats the colour of the green beetle??

@brighteyefilms Yeah I know it sounds like the gen light should be doing that esp if the belt slips, but I just changed the belt and the red (gen) light I know for a fact is responding correctly. The oil *green light now stays consistently on at idle which is a BAD sign. When I push the throttle it goes off. So I think it has something to do with the oil pressure. Maybe the Pressure Relief Valve? What do you think? Increased the idle speed set the green light off temporarily then not. valves.006

What about extra zinc? Most oil don't have as much.

here in brazil we use 20w 50 oil , i prefer to use the diesel 20w50 oil, is better because clean better the engine .