Climbing the Matterhorn via the Hornli Ridge during the summer of 2008, during our Alps & Beyond mission in the Magic bus. leeburty.com/leeburty/cbebxby...
Пікірлер: 86
@lindsayrogers6690 Жыл бұрын
Thanks for posting this lads. As a young man I soloed the Hornli. I’m now 70 years of age and recovering from cancer surgery. I relived some great memories watching this. Thanks again.
@paulhoulden3 жыл бұрын
Ah mate been trying to find this vid in ages, I watched it for the first time in 2013 and thought it was absolutely impossible for me to climb the Matterhorn amd had a weird obsession since, I summited last August 😅
@chuckiethemadman13 жыл бұрын
this is the best vid of mat summit.....you're mental! lovin the knife edge. congratulations
@zeppafloyd9 жыл бұрын
Great climb, great video. Love how that hawk or whatever it was greeted you at the summit.
@Quadro6411 жыл бұрын
Oh thanks a lot! It's wonderful indeed. Good luck in the mountains and on the roads!
@markfosseth8047 Жыл бұрын
Despite I didn’t understand a word, well done guys 👍
@tengobotas14 жыл бұрын
Fantastic video and some really beautiful shots in there. Nice climb!
@pochentrismo12 жыл бұрын
As here in México we say: estás bien pinche loco, mano. CONGRATULATIONS
@Ziggy01209 жыл бұрын
man my palms are sweaty just watching you guys on the summit
@JIMM196513 жыл бұрын
Great video !
@Anatolij201012 жыл бұрын
Love it,you are great.
@TheStargoose13 жыл бұрын
Fantastic- really admire your skill and courage......
@patrickjamesgreen433511 жыл бұрын
Patrick James Green - great video Lee, this inspired me to do the climb myself and film it and showed me what it was really like - especially the summit...
@Bereit1811 жыл бұрын
Cracking video guys. Well done. Great choice of music too. :)
@U_Zagrljaju_Planina11 жыл бұрын
Congrats guys! Cheers from Croatia!
@Raekwonia13 жыл бұрын
Nice work there lads, some great filming!
@5iveoceanshells10 жыл бұрын
Well done, brilliant video. I'm climbing Mont Blanc next year and doing a few winter climbs of Snowdon this winter. Need to do some more practice using ropes before I attempt the Matterhorn, but I will summit this beauty next year or the year after.
@leeoscbaker52075 жыл бұрын
Good luck bud did you manage the matterhorn
@leeburty13 жыл бұрын
@MountainClimber8848 I can't recall how much it was. We drove to the Alps, spent 3 months in the area. Being students we did everything dirty cheap. Accommodation, I'd recommend 'Camping Les Arolles' in Cham, its where all the climbers hang out. Mountain wise we only payed for lift & hut fees maybe around 100euro a pop. I've climbed Monty B a few times now but it was my first alpine route and i've taken a few other first timers up there, so not a bad place to start.Good luck
@matterhorn197513 жыл бұрын
Brill vid, i did this on the 12 September 2004 by the same route, truly awesome.
@mandaltby13 жыл бұрын
Thanks man, great video I felt like I was with ya. Wow the top looked real scary and narrow, one slip and you are a goner
@Gar9622913 жыл бұрын
@leeburty Thank You, Can't wait, I might go up with my uncle, whos climbed Mount Everest and Mount Kilermanjaro, and nearly all of the tallest mountains in Norway.
@MrSagex13 жыл бұрын
respect guys - well done !
@leeburty13 жыл бұрын
@sunnydays64 Thanks, it can be a relatively straight forward and safe route with experience and confidence, but still possible for those with little experience with a mountaineering guide. The main danger is other people knocking rocks down and if you did slip on the top, just hope that your mate jumps off the otherside!
@ariel26689 жыл бұрын
Well done, you good things!
@StrathendrickPiper11 жыл бұрын
great video kudos well done!
@Strokwor12 жыл бұрын
Great video guys! You earned my like :)
@odyxanthi11 жыл бұрын
Well done guys! and great video. I would love to climb something like that one day. Although I don't know if I have the head for it. Walking on that summit ridge looks impossible to me... I would have to crawl all the way.
@sprucy43410 жыл бұрын
Looks like a rugged scramble. But breath taking. :)
@Gar9622913 жыл бұрын
28th of August 2008!!!! thats when we were going to Switzland
@leeburty13 жыл бұрын
@MatHarrop Hey, Yep the mountain is full of spikes/eyelets & fixed ropes...there's something there when you need it! We took the odd cam and nut but didn't use a single one, we just used a sling to clip in for belaying and also clipped a sling around the thick fixed ropes...just incase. Good luck
@leeburty12 жыл бұрын
Yeah rock fall is a big issue, the mountain is full of loose rock. Helmets are a must they are design to take impact, the smallest of rocks could be life threatening but the helmet will deflect it, but obviously there only so much a helmet could do against a large rock. We saw the odd rock come down mainly caused by other climbers dislodging them. Best thing to do is watch your own footing and keep alert, one of the main reasons of injury/death are rock falls.
@nsimcoff12 жыл бұрын
wow. 6:03. What a great video. Congrats
@leeburty13 жыл бұрын
@FienStudios lol yeah we forgot the Tolberone at the top, next time maybe. We didn't join a program just turned up. Aslong as your booked into the Hornli hut (or got your tent) your good to go, just let friends and fam know where your heading, you can always let the people in the hut know what your plans are. If you get to the hut early enough its wise to go scout out the lower section of the mountain so you have some idea in the morning, in fact i'd really advise it. cheers
@leeburty13 жыл бұрын
@Leninmarxcastro Hey Chris. We roped up from the hut all the way and moved together pretty much the entire route, wrapping the rope around rock and metal eyelets/spikes as we ascended. I remember pitching below the solvay and most of the section above the shoulder, but even that was just a quick Italian hitch from a spike We pitched more on the decent, just taking extra caution really. All the steep section have fixed ropes and plenty of eyelets to thread a rope through etc
@chaletulyssezermatt31599 жыл бұрын
Great video - next summer they will co-memorate the 150th anniversary of the 1st climing :-)
@Wolfzarie14 жыл бұрын
Really nice video man. Shows really well how the hornli ridge is. You should post it on SummitPost!
@fausto8012 жыл бұрын
thanks.
@leeburty13 жыл бұрын
@nbrowne92 Hey man. Yeah your kinda right with hornli being loose, crowed etc. loose rocks being the main factor...it feels like the ridge is crumbling away, but its an awesome route to climb and to me it felt like the true classic way to the top. We kinda stuck behind the main crowd, so didn't get too bummed down with people, lucky to have the summit to ourselves i surpose. Shud be quieter from Cervinia via Italian ridge though and plenty to hit form that side too. All the best
@I3022I Жыл бұрын
Si chiama CERVINO...non si chiama Matterhorn,. Fenomeni che siete!!!!
@leeburty12 жыл бұрын
yeah they'll be perfect. Good luck when the time comes
@fausto8012 жыл бұрын
PS you guys did it pretty damn fast, good time
@desmondoreilly131610 жыл бұрын
Very impressive guys. The film of you walking along the summit ridge, and filming at the same time, makes my knees knock. You make it look like a cake walk; how technical a climb is it? And done at such a young age too, well done.
@fausto8012 жыл бұрын
i have la sportiva makalu, they would be ok for something like this wouldnt they? even though im light years from even attempting it. thanks
@vanderbilt491811 жыл бұрын
Agreed.
@losteden12 жыл бұрын
I would like to know some information, which the price of climbing the Matterhorn? and Zermatt have any place to know information about climbing the Matterhorn?we have our equipment? or we can rent? thank you
@Basilzaharoff110 жыл бұрын
Do you abseil down the steep sections of the ridge?,,, looks as if there is sufficient anchoring,,, so you would be leaving any gear behind
@boethiusm84389 жыл бұрын
You should never leave anything on top of any climb. Out of respect to other climbers and the mountain
@leeburty13 жыл бұрын
@hauterouter Thanks. You could wear Nepal Extremes but you don't need to go to that high level. I wore La Sportiva Glacier Evo. Aslong as they're semi ridged and can fit a good crampon you'll be sweet
@leeburty13 жыл бұрын
@hamishsdad Hey. Its sounds like you've got a fair bit of experience. Cham will be a great warm up...thats what we did. If your confident on rock and move well together then you should be fine, try a bunch of AD routes in Cham and plenty of long scrambles in the UK tied together etc. Efficiency is the key, and once on the horn stick behind the groups...believe it or not but route finding is pretty tricky on the Matterhorn
@leeburty14 жыл бұрын
@big212121 Cheers, yeah its abit hairy ontop but amazing, go for it if you get chance. Well done with Monty B, now thats hard work!
@Timothy_Pitt13 жыл бұрын
Very good work Thanks for this 6:06 looks so dangerous, surely? One slip and its over? This route only for the experienced?
@Gar9622913 жыл бұрын
@leeburty Did you "HAVE TO" pay or or join a program when going up. Or do you just tell your friends and family and others that your going up.
@leeburty13 жыл бұрын
@brooks4x Hi, we are 3 uni mates who gave it a shot on our own. Its a popular trips with guides though 1:1 ratio or more can easily be arranged in Zermatt (if your willing to pay for it!). Good luck
@yogalao11 жыл бұрын
Congratz on the vid and the climb. I hope i can do it someday. Did u reach the cross on the italian summit?
@leeburty13 жыл бұрын
@TRIPNnuttzNfcknBUTTZ We were trust me, just taking it in...its a surreal moment standing ontop of a mountain such as the Matterhorn especially if your attempt the previous year failed due to bad weather. Plus I was ontop of Mont Blanc, which i could see in the distance, 3 days before this so pretty exhausted and i had my 21st coming up...so quite a week...What did you do that week?
@nbrowne9213 жыл бұрын
Outstanding - fair play indeed! Was in Cham there for 2 weeks, absolutely EPIC! Alps is definately where it is at! Hoping to do the Matterhorn in the next 2 years - would you recommend the Hornli? I've heard its quite polished, loose and overcrowded at times! Was contemplating staying in Cervinia, and doing raids into Switzerland for the Duforspitze/Zinalrothorn/Breithorn etc! Since in Italy, may do Lion Ridge instead...
@tpstrat1412 жыл бұрын
how much of an issue is rockfall? I assume it's a big issue, just wondering how big and how you keep an eye out for it and how shock absorbing are those helmets?
@patrickjames-green789411 жыл бұрын
Patrick JAmes GReen - what time did you leave inthe morning?
@hamishsdad13 жыл бұрын
@leeburty Awesome video! I've been to Zermatt, it's a formidable looking mountain. I'm at scottish grade 3 leading, how far do you think I'm away from having a pop at the Hornli Ridge (with a mate at the same level)? I've been to the alps before and am actually heading out to Arolla and Chaminox in a couple of weeks. I fancy the matterhorn though at a later date. I should say, like you guys, I'd rather do it without a guide! Cheers
@James-ec7qx Жыл бұрын
For anyone interested it's probably about the same grade, most of its scrambling, but very very very long and committed. You need to be slick with ropework and move efficientlym I would recommend you climb to a much higher standard first just for confidence sake.
@virgoletta12 жыл бұрын
wht they did not get up to the cross...didn't they?
@TheBuckybronco11 жыл бұрын
Do you reckon it could be done without ropes? Bit of scrambling and hanging on to the ropes/gear that's in situ?
@brooks4x13 жыл бұрын
can you tell me if you are 3 friends doing it on thier own or was 1 a guide, i'd like to try if with a guide sometime
@smokinbill14 жыл бұрын
that's insanity dude, one wrong step and you're done for.
@leeburty12 жыл бұрын
no just the three of us
@richardvarley425111 жыл бұрын
Outstanding. Good photography and soundtrack. Trouble is, you can only get your camera out on the easier pitches... giving a false impression that the climb is a glorified scramble. Well done for the bits you couldn't film...
@magill0511 жыл бұрын
Fuck, that'd make me sick when your looking back down the mountain !!
@Quadro6411 жыл бұрын
Congratulations! Great video, great trip! The soundtrack is also very nice. Who is the performer?
@yourrealdad8811 жыл бұрын
Doubt it mate, reckon none of these brave fellas knew what exactly they were getting into! Nevermind, knowing your limits is the key!
@leeburty13 жыл бұрын
@reid00008 Hi. Check the comment @hamishsdad. we'd spent the previous weeks in Chamonix before heading over to Zermatt, but spent alot of time in the UK doing scrambles etc. Gear wise we used axe, crampons, rope, crabs, prusiks etc and a sling to clip round the thick ropes above the shoulder, we took the odd cam and nut but didn't use them as the mountain is really well set up with metal spikes and ringlets to wrap the rope round/belay as you ascend/descend. happy to help
@meherbaba-godman7483 Жыл бұрын
❤❤💖💖💘💘
@Gar9622913 жыл бұрын
Should of celebrated with a Tolberone when you got to the peak :)
@leeburty11 жыл бұрын
Nina Simone 'Sinnerman'. This is the Felix da housecat remix though
@tpstrat1412 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the info!! I would consider the Matterhorn if I could know I was in control of my destiny, but this rockfall business seems like a crap shoot. Forget that...
@brotherlouie70678 жыл бұрын
Ok, so one question. You are on the Matterhorn for 14 hrs, with all the people around you, where do you go to... relieve yourself?
@charliepeebles7 жыл бұрын
Adult diapers.
@TheLoops2512 жыл бұрын
Did anyone see the crow or whatever it was summit in under a minute at 6:24 then fly over the camera mans head?
@lolley100011 жыл бұрын
it reminds me of the price is right ...... cliff hanger ha ha ha ha ha
@DrNeonAnthrax12 жыл бұрын
6:00-6:20 sketchy!
@scubnix12 жыл бұрын
06:00.......Ho......Ly......FUCK.
@pikeflyfisherman12 жыл бұрын
I plan on doing the Matterhorn one day but when I do it I'll try and solo as much of it as possible. Not a big fan of fixed ropes or bolts at all, not very true to Alpinism or climbing in general. That said, if I need too use them then I need too use them, I'd rather survive than die because of someone else's perception of "pure" style.
@tpstrat1412 жыл бұрын
hahahahahahahahahaha of course it's sponsored by Toblerone. They're the only company to use the Matterhorn exclusively as a logo.
@spamstoper313 жыл бұрын
5*******
@__Toplexil__9 жыл бұрын
One of the videos I watched before I did it; thanks , here is a link to mine kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hdyGZ7No0Kzdj6M.html