Always keep the distance from the chuck as minimal as possible for rigidity. Always use cutting fluids based on material type. Cute little machine, great for a hobby shop.

When threading on CNC you need to allow an acceleration distance at the start of the thread, fusion may call it a lead in distance, on your machine I would say 3 to 5mm should be enough. Only finish a diameter once, carbide tips do not cut well at a depth of cut less than the tip radius. You will get a much better finish with a 0.2 rad tip and a 0.25mm depth of cut. If you find you get chatter then use GT style tips on small machines they work well in all materials not just aluminium and they reduce the cutting pressure and stop tip rub/chatter.

Great video! A couple of tips from my 30 years plus of cnc machining - cutting oil/coolant is a must to improve surface finish and extend tool life. And have less material sticking out from the chuck, i know it's scary but for the best accuracy and finishes the parting tool should be max 3 - 5 mm from the front face of the chuck as it parts off, this will stop deflection. 😁

Nice job on the stud and retrofit!

Impressive results on your prolight 3000!

Flipping amazing! I knew these machines were high quality but they seem to be near professional level. As always, spectacular job!👏

I just found your channel, thanks youtube algorithm!, both the lathe and the mill look soo good, Its the first time I have heard about this brand of machines, they look good. I am looking forward on watching more projects, and your shop looks like it has many stories to tell too. You have a new subscriber, keep up the good work. :)

Great videos! I just finished converting my ProLight 1000 to Masso G2 and could not be happier! Excited to see your Super retrofit! I also have a ProLight turning center running on OG win98 and Great job with the threading! Would love see how you integrated the tool changer.

just found you channel and watched all your videos. now i feel the need to buy a mini cnc mill and turning center like you have...

great video...nice explanation and trouble shooting...

I'd machine these from 2 sides, so you can get a smooth top, instead of having to debur them by hand, Just take a piece of scrap with M8 Threads in there. First Machine the threads, and then Cut off.. you can have very little stickout with that, Then, Put the still round stock in a vice, mill the flats on the shank, Bolt them to the scrap piece in the spindle, and machine the other side..

Really nice results. Lube and maybe a few more finish passes and you will have nice parts. Material selection will help a lot too. 4140 cuts much cleaner than 1018 etc. 41L40 would be ideal for a smaller machine.

The fact the the cutting tool went beyond the centerline and to the other end of the stock does indeed suggest that the machine was set up in "radius mode". In the masso axis setttings, try to half (or double) the steps per unit settings for the X-axis. This should half the distance the tool travels in the X direction, thus giving you the correct dimension when programming in diameter mode.

Chip control is an issue with your turning. I saw your hand\fingers try and remove the long chips. The first time you try this and the razor sharp chip ( even Aluminum) suddenly grabs and pulls tight you will learn, ask me how I know this. I cut my whole hand across my palm and took a chunk out of my Thumb. Use long nose pliers or a chip hook. I was lucky that I didn't cut deep enough to sever any tendons & yes it was very painful. Lesson learned. If you have chip nesting problems then you can program the cuts to start at the spindle and move towards the tailstock, this way the chip is pushed away from the chuck and nesting doesn't happen. I enjoyed your videos however, just the cringing brought back bad memories, you never forget!!

I’m about to order a Masso G3 touch. Thanks for the video. A word of caution about grabbing those long stringy chips by hand, if they get caught by that chuck while you’re holding them they will instantly and effectively cut your hand. Over 30 years I’ve seen some impressive cuts from chips. One guy I worked with had a chunk out of his fuck you finger he called his cigarette holder.

Hi! Nice job! A little tip for better threads: use "fade thread end" in fusion, then after you've done the full thread, make a finishing pass on the same diameter that was before thread but in direction from the chuck, then another thread pass at full depth and another finishing pass. It will remove all the possible burrs) And yeah, start the thread at the distance 1.5*pitch from the threaded face, and make it a bit longer

Nice work! One cutter with a 35-degree plate is sufficient for a clean pass

Dude how wild. I need to do the same thing as my emco has a proprietary pull stud. I bought a 5 pack and it was ridiculous

"I don't know what kind of steel this is..." You and Jeremy should go for an expedition in a creek and find something really rusty to use for making pull studs.

I'm setting up a Hardinge-Masso retrofit. On the tool offset page, what's "tool direction" field for? I can't find any mention of it in the manual. Thanks for the video, it gives me hope that my retrofit will work eventually.

Nice 👍. Maybe you know what is the holding force for iso20 ? Thx

Hi Travis, lots of good suggestions in the comments re chuck stick out and cutting fluid. I use a mist coolant as it is not as messy as flood. What sort of insert were you using for the turning? My lathe has just 1/2hp at the spindle and I have used Sumitomo FC type inserts for years. These have a ground edge and are much sharper than moulded inserts. I have no idea what other brands might call them but I assume others have similar inserts. I have used the inserts for aluminium on steel and they cut quite well, they don't last very long, but as they are so cheap in hardly matters. I have a video of making a pull stud in 4140 if you are interested.

Its amazing sir. if our masso support G71 code for turning?

Is that pull stud the P120T-1, or M8xP1.25? If so I could use about 5 of them. let me know if you would like a little side work lol, would be super cheap to ship. Great videos!

these look like BT30 45 degree pullstuds. it is used a lot for ISO toolholders. No idea if there is also an ISO20 version but I assume there is.

I'm wondering if you don't have enough holding current and the axis is dropping under its own weight, as the stepper isn't under power. It happened to me. Make sure you have idle current for axis under the influence of things like gravity.

reducing the amount of material sticking out of the chuck will help massively with vibration its surprising what 5mm less stickout will do

Is it possible to do internal threading with masso? Thanks!

if there one thing I wouldn't make myself its a pull stud. good chance of damaging the mechanism in the machine and they youll have problems with all of your toolholders, if its not straight the whole toolholder can be crooked, and they are under a lot of stress. at least for bigger tapers they have to be forged so the grain direction is correct of they fatigue and break prematurely

It looks like your spindle motor is a brushed dc how did you wire it into the control can you make a video on it?

Odd that the post was wrong. Did you use the Masso post processor with Fusion 360?

How does this machine compare to the Emco PC Turn 55?

nice video! the tool changer is controlled by the 3rd axis? and it has some position sensor or something? curious how it works as im looking at a larger lathe for conversion and it has similar tool changer with more stations. thanks

This and the previous videos on your Prolight 3000 Turning Center conversion are great! I have a 3000 Turning Center also and plan to convert to the Masso G3 Touch like you did. Does the Masso G3 control the 8-position tool turret out of the box, or did you need to do some custom macro work or other mods to the Masso s/w and/or h/w? Thanks.

I use diam. On my lathes when you set your tool make a cut measure it and put that size in x and it should cut fine for you

i bought a southbend magnaturn 612, its a complete machine but its not working, it has baldor ac brushless servo motors in it, very nice machine, wondering if this masso conversion will work for mine??

How are you controlling the toolchanger? It appears to be stepper driven but that is a 2 axis Masso? I must be missing something.

Try to keep your stock as close as possible to the chuk. Less chettering .

Did you already figure out the diameter/radius issue?it’s an easy fix on Masso+dial indicator. Your calibration on the X axis is incorrect. I made the same mistake on my first cnc lathe build.

Was the radius / diameter issue resolved in firmware updates?

When the threads are cut: how is it ensured that the cutting tool every time starts at the right spot?

hello How did you make cam or mosso include cam fonction. can you add it?

u should start your thread a bit further out and maybe use cutting oil for steel.

i suspect your lead screw is not the pitch you expected when you set it up in masso if your pitch is twice that expected it explains the radius measure being used instead of the diameter

Could you share the masso controller between your lathe and a mill/router? Instead of buying one for each machine

9:10 11:58

Hello, please don't use your bare hands to remove metal shavings, it's really dangerous! Alternatively, you can make a hook from soft wire.

Your feeds are too slow, or the spindle speed is too slow, resulting in poor chip quality and just strings of metal coming out

I love it when you release a new video!!! Get to the top fast > Promo_SM!