This has happened to me too, and sometimes it doesn't even get through the raft. Very frustrating

I'm preaty that's broke an entire extroder head for me

@@mondair99 Throw some heatsinks on it

@@Lucas_sGarage thanks boss, I'll try to remember to keep you in the loop

@@mondair99 Sure, take care

I did something very similar on my MK1 last week too. Lol. I used an mks robin nano v3 with tmc 2209 drivers. It's got a touch screen and wifi but the screen is too big to mount anywhere on the cetus. What power supply did you go with? My heated bed is super weak on 19v. It draws 30w. I did the math and going to 24v should get it closer to 60w. Unfortunately, I did have to ditch the pt100 because it failed and I opted to replace the entire extruder/hotend. I ended up going with the kp3s titan extruder. It performs great and now I just use standard mk8 nozzles. Last night I put a 3d touch on it, so no more frustrating warped build plate.

@@inoahmann7542 For the time being I am running it from my lab bench PSU and I have a step down converter for the RPI, Arduino and fan. With everything powered it draws about 3.2~3.5 A @ 24 V so I was thinking about getting an EPP-120S-24 PSU, which has a very small footprint. There are also more powerful (but larger) versions if you want to plug the heating bed.

@@urano1988 thanks! I think I'll go with that same power supply. Maybe a slightly bigger one if I can still fit it in my electronics enclosure. If I need to I can limit the power to my hotend and bed to stay under the 120w limit.

I currently upgrading my Cetus MKII and MKIII I replace the Cetus extruder to BIQU H2 extruder. I also replace the TinyFab MCU/mainboard to Melow FLY RRF E3 Pro with the integrated max31865 SPI PT100 IC. And because of the shorter heater cartridge for BIQU H2 extruder I use a Mellow 24V 70W heater, and increase the voltage from 19V to 24V. And I will also design an extra PCB for the PSU connector and for the Z axes hardware break by a relay. This feature is on the MKIII mainboard and also designed in the TinyFab mainboards as well.

Conversion, it was a good machine in 2017 but now is a pain in the ass to use. Modded mine as well but I have changed the extruder also. Hate proprietary nozzles. Do you have links for the extruder stepper mod?

Does it work with a BL touch or CR touch? As I learned more about my E3 V2 I realized I can turn it into a really nice printer instead of buying a different one. My CR touch and Jyers firmware is a joy. I like the options this fly 3 adds. I'm also a minimalist. Any hardware I can install that will do the work of multiple pieces of hardware, I'm all for.

@@dangerous8333 I used the FLY with a BL touch clone. Twotrees I believe. It's a bit more ciitical to ajust compared to the original.

You’ll love it. Significant upgrade!

+1

MJF is superior in z-axis strength and consistency to SLS and is superior in every way besides specialized material availability. I own two 5210 MJF machines and would be happy to provide CNC Kitchen some parts for testing!

+1

@@mkmachining7957 What is the reason for this? Layer height? Temperature? Maybe Stefan can find out.

Yeah.. that fancy nylon print would be a great test subject checking for accuracy and strength.

Thanks for the info!

Yes this was a pretty glaring error. He's definitely meaning input shaping. In RRF Linear advance is called pressure advance btw.

Same here, most of my everyday printers now run RRF. It takes a bit to learn but now I love it!

I liked RRF but the problem for me is that if something doesn't work, the support for it is as useless as windows support. Switched my duet board to Klipper and never looked back since

@@jexom I've honestly been able to find documentation for everything I've ever had issues with. The wiki pages are pretty well written. Though I gotta admit having stuff like a discord server for the vorons which usually run klipper is pretty sweet.

@@jexom On the Duet forum you can literally talk to the developers and they will walk you through your issue. Is that useless?

I believe his last video about this machine was about fixing the lopsided extruder gear to get consistent extrusions.

Partly, yes. The last one was about the wobbly extruder gear, this one's about the mainboard.

More like RRF commercial

Tried to show the good and the bad, but I'm seriously happy with the hardware and firmware.

@@CNCKitchen I am a long time viewer, trust your videos, but still it sounded a bit like a commercial. But it's a cool board too!

@@CNCKitchen to be honest, working with RRF so far felt to me as if i was doing a commercial as well It's just so user friendly

The PCB design isn't a whole lot of work, tbh. As Peter says above, RRF is the real star here. The time invested into RRF development will probably be hundreds of times that of the Mellow PCB - which is why it's a bit of a shame that the RRF devs likely aren't supported by purchases of these boards... (I suspect a significant chunk of the Duet boards' prices goes towards firmware development, hence the higher prices.)

Thanks for the info!

Good point! And all have their place IMO.

that was how I felt when upgrading my original CR-10

I had a reverse experience at work. When I built my machine, I built it from the ground up with TMC2208s, and later upgraded to closed loop steppers (the BTT NEMA 17s, great stuff). They're really quiet, became a "silent but the fans" printer. No money for Noctuas here. Then at work I was tasked to revive an old small CNC router, and found an Arduino Mega + RAMPS 1.4 setup with the classic A4988s there that I could use, and heck that thing screams, I had no idea they were that loud normally.

Totally right. I think I was too excited about my Klipper joke 😅

Sorry to hear that. Hope it worked out for you!

@@CNCKitchen I have been messing with it all day. Unfortunately, I have MK2 and you started with a MK3. So there are some variances like trying to get sensorless homing working. I also switched from using the standard hotend to a Slice Copperhead.

Haven't started a print, but I have about 90%+ of the printer verified working. Last thing is swapping the sensorless homing with a capacitive proximity sensor for the Z axis.

Yes, you're right. I was too excited after my Klipper joke and messed it up.

@@CNCKitchen haha worth it since it sums up the community pretty well. Hopefully I don't come across as a 'but klipper' person, but I'm genuinely interested in your opinion given your knowledge of 3d printing. From my comparison standpoint, and considering I have several printers running RRF and several with Klipper, I think I prefer klipper slightly more for two reasons: 1. The first and foremost being that I'm a software developer, and so have command-line access where I can deploy scripts and modify any components as I see fit. This is a bit harder with duet. 2. The second being the actual hardware of the Pi being high quality. I have had many issues with the wifi reception with the stock duet antenna and even using add-on antennas. I sometimes send extremely large files and so this can be a pain, whereas the raspberry pi 4 even supports wifi 6, so it caters well to my impatience. In summary they are both great with slight differences, duet is more user friendly, and klipper more configurable. Almost like macOS vs Linux.

But...... _Klipper!_

I'm a klipper fan, I think its great software. And sure I was a little sad Tom decided not to use it on his voron. But then the way the klipper fanboys harrased tom and most likely pushed him away from klipper for good really makes me angry. I just hate it when a few loud idiots ruin a good thing for everyone else.

@@jamesmelemede5610 reread your comment but slowly, all your hate is going towards a person with his own opinion. you are going all out on Domenico and even pull in Thomas (who even isnt even mentioned except for your comment) really great job of not putting the klipper community in a bad light really really great job.

Daddy chill .

Mainsaill just added timelapse functionality

@@powersv2 Yeah, and I like it. One more reason I am getting away from Octoprint.

The main difference between marlin and Reprap is that Marlin requires recompiling the firmware to make changes to your settings but with reprap you can edit a plain text file and have it change right then and there. There's a lot of other features as well, but on a day to day basis that's probably the main thing.

@@JasonZnack Thanks

Happy to hear that! It's a great project for a rainy weekend.

Good luck destroying a great machine. 👍 Convert it into a Mk3S+. Because there is nothing better.

My pleasure!

Great work!

He has the gerber files on on his Github, but i dont which ones to upload to JLCPCB

If it's not your only machine, it's a great learning opportunity, though it will require some time and skill.

I think a Skr1.3 board with stepper drivers on it will be the easiest approach. No need to fiddle around with multiple boards and connections and weird firmwares. Just use Marlin on a SD card, done.

At least it seems you made the right choice! Thanks for watching.

@@CNCKitchen Gotta say this channel helped a lot with gathering information for the build and my 1st prints.

Great choice! Have the Mini 5+ still in my Prusa and am super happy with it!

"custom nozzles" ?

@@REDxFROG I assume he meant proprietary

Exactly what my problem was! If the pinout of the extruder ribbon cable is the same, my adapter board should work as well!

Yes, you're right. I was too excited after my Klipper joke and messed it up.

It's mainly the interfaces for me. Mainsail is just.....Beautiful

@@coltenmeredith8899 i can't argue with that

The CR-10 is internally very much like the Ender-3, so a conversion doesn't need an adapter board and most of the connectors should be reusable. Maybe check the Discord.

@@CNCKitchen The CR10s-Pro has a 30-pin ribbon connector. I did see a breakout board a while ago somewhere which was 30-pin to JSTs, but I think the chap only made a few. The alternative would be to chop the large connector off and, split the ribbon cable add male JST connectors.

It’s running RRF, it IS wireless with control through the WiFi.

@@christophmuller3511 oh I mean wireless by connecting it to a battery

@@jamescerven4400 yeah, was not finished with the video yet…

so .... compensation vs solution?

Do you mean input shaping?

That was 3DJake MagicPLA Sunset Sky.

ESP8266 boards manage about 500-600kb/s, ESP32 boards can peak at 1.6-1.7Mb/s

Parts are still "ageing" in my office 😉 For the moment I'd just go for ABS or ASA but I also had good results with annealed CF Nylon parts.

Do it because the general design of most of their machines is not too bad.

You must have too much money to leave new machines laying around😐

That's kind of true, REDxFROG. I've had some sort of project in mind for years but I'm at the point where a second 3D printer would save me time and effort, so resurrecting it seems like a good project. It's unfortunate to waste money on things, an expensive lesson in just buying a Prusa i3 the first time! But, it's not like I tossed it into a landfill, it's in the original packaging and is ready to be transformed into something useful, which Stefan has motivated me to do. So ultimately, it's not a big loss (compared to if I just kept using it, getting mad at the software every time I needed to print something, and giving up 3D printing).

@@JonathanRockway nah. Put it away and get more Prusa. Even the mini is just so good. :-)

Too late! Just finished disassembling it :)

The firmware on the Fly boards is the same port as used for the SKR boards by teamgloomy. As long as you are using a supported STM32 chip all the features of RRF are supported and are usually current to a production release Duet3d RRF and only a revision or two behind on the latest Beta builds. Very functional.

Should be a very similar experience. Definitely worth trying out, though I don't have any experience with SKR boards.

also could you release the desgine for the mount?