There are some PU's that can 'split' and/or tap the 2nd PU to cancel out Hum and to try and stop the drop in volume. I am sure the High Performance Gibson allowed you to pick between a 'split' and a 'tapped' sound with Dip switches. I think some of the confusion lies though with the manufacturers of the PU's/Guitars where they will state that the PU's can be split with whatever method of switching utilised but what is happening is that one PU is still fully active whilst the other is 'tapped' to reduce Hum and/or volume drop off. Its difficult for many to hear the 'difference' because you can't really compare a split/tapped humbucker with a Single coil because PU's vary. As a PRS fan, I have a 594 (with the option to split the coils - or tap), the 509 (again the option to split the two SC's working as a Humbucker - or is one tapped) and of course the Custom 24 which, in a couple of positions (2 & 4) are listed as 'split' - either just the neck with Bridge as Humbucker or both PU's split together. Point is, its not easy to actually find out accurately if its a proper 'split' where one PU is literally turned off or if one (or both) are 'tapped'. Then of course there is the 'new' TCI pick-ups which are said to be a 'split' with the most lifelike Single Coil sound with no drop off in volume. This is somewhat confusing too because if this is the 'best' split SC sound, then are all the others just tapping one (or Both) coils? If they are 'split', then why do people feel they don't sound like a 'true' Single Coil? I am, and was aware before your interesting video, of the difference between a Split and a Tapped Humbucker. However, I am not sure of whether a guitar is actually 'splitting' the coils, tapping both or just tapping one of the coils. The information, even from the manufacturers websites can be inconsistent or even inaccurate - stating the Push/Pull or Mini-Toggle is 'splitting' the coil yet it seems that some 'tapping' (of at least 1 of the coils) appears to be in place. As you say, its not just guitarists that are incorrectly stating that their guitars offer coil 'splitting' when in fact its more of a tapping or vice versa, but even the official websites will use 'split' and 'tap' as interchangeable words that essentially mean the Humbuckers will go from a 'full' humbucker sound to one that sounds more 'Single coil' like - although rarely as Single coil like as true Single coil - which again adds to the confusion. If they are 'split', then why don't they seem as comparable to a Single Coil? If they are 'split' as the manufacturer states, then why is there little/no hum and little/no volume drop off? I am sorry this has ended up as more of an essay but I too would like to be more accurate and receive accurate information too - whether the guitar I am buying is actually splitting the coils or at least tapping 1, if not both coils. It seems to me that 'every' humbucker guitar is listed as having 'coil splits' - at least All the guitars I look at. Yet some could very well be just tapped or just tapping one coil to preserve volume and cancel hum for example. I love your TATA video's and your knowledge is very helpful but I do wish that sometimes you would give demonstrations of things rather than just talk - split it up with some actual examples if possible and maybe even what to look out for (or more listen out for) when trying to determine if the PU is split or tapped.

How about parallel vs series vs coil split? There's a couple of videos out there comparing these three, but to tell you the truth they really say very little about demystifying why there's tonal changes within the pickups.

I have seen that modern metal bands have a very special sound, and use special pickups like TITAN NAZGUL PEGASUS AND FISHMAN my question is: this sound comes only of these pickups or comes from a combination of some special rig settings and extended instruments, may be you can do a video of this modern metal sound

Looking forward to the ohms video.

Next question: How are hot rails tapped/split

It's not THAT hard! ;oP

As with many guitar community questions: there is no controversy, just ignorant guitar players...

@@adamkelly5478 LOL! As a music retail expert, I see this every day lol!

@@DMSProduktions music retail expert huh? Can you explain the relationship between string gauge, string tension, scale length, and overall string length?

@@adamkelly5478 I said retail, NOT an egineer. What exactly do you want to know?

We can't see Colin's pants though.. We can't be sure

@@ChaosPootato I bet it's cargo shorts;)

@@Gallaer I bet it's a kilt, or possibly nothing at all.

It's a six pocket cargo. Each pocket is like Doraemon's and contains electrical tools.

@@Loebane Wouldn't be surprised.

Great name!

This is an amazing #TATA, i learned how they worked the hard way

LOL!

@@TKDFORCEART F

Robert Horning you really asking?

The terms "splitting a humbucker "and "tapping a humbucker" are interchangable. They both mean the same thing and both are correct. "Tapping a coil" could be misconstrued by someone who is being purposely obtuse but within context they should know what is meant..

so it's both a split and tapped coil

yeah also the switch, and the potentiometer pull/push for coil split or coil tap isnt the only methood of switching coils or /tap For example take the peavey T60 and the peavey T40 a bass and a guitar made over 30 years ago had the design and innovation no other did at the time, basically before manufacturers of guitars and pickups started going with the more discreet push/pull potentiometers, peavey had the brilliant idea to integrate this into the potentiometer itself with no pulling or pushing. When you set the tone at 10 the pickup would effectively be an actual true single coil, as you rolled off the tone to about a 7 it would switch to the more darker louder humbucker mode, but heres the gist of it all, between 7 and 10 if you went into say an 8.5, it somewhat sounds like a true P90. I said this cant possibly be this is amazing, well lads get ready to have your heads blown off. As if that wasnt enough, they also added a switch with the ability to have both pickups out of phase, legend says that a celebrity picked up a guitar made by gibson off a store bought it, and the guys that made that specific guitar accidentally wound 1 of the pickups in reverse ( i cant remember if it was both or just 1) and essentially it gave him a nasally type sound when he switched to both pickups on. I bet with a little bit of modification the Peavey T60s and the Peavey T40s could be wired in series and paralel, by adding yet another switch or we can have a push pull pot to make it happen, i truly believe that as far as re inventing the wheel no other manufacturer did it best then Peavey.

@@samuellarkin7998 Yes. As soon as I find it again, I will post the link so you can see exactly what I am talking about.

Dean Zelinsky has been doing this for years. Check out his "Sidekick" pickups.

@@valuedhumanoid6574 you find it yet?

Mind boggling things? 😂 this is the most basic of electronics

The rule is: Low into high is fine, cuts output by 50%, O/tranny does not work as hard and is a bit quieter. High into low, is a NO go! Will make your o/tranny work twice as hard to put out wattage that isn't there and will COOK it! (Requiring a replacement!) Your amp will be louder, (for a short time) then fail!

To clarify this a skosh: Low impedance output from an amp (4ohms) into a higher impedance input speaker (16 ohms nominal) is not a problem. 8 or 16 ohm output from an amplifier into a 4 ohm load (speaker) will melt your shit in a hurry.

Pouring too much water into a small cup makes a mess (too high amp signal into a low cab), but you can always pour a small amount of water into a big cup (a low input signal into a high cab)

@@fhqwhgads1670 I did say that already you know!

@@DMSProduktionsyou said that in a way that does make it clear what is meant by low and what by high. It's ambiguous whether "low into high" means plugging the cab into the amp, or the amp into the cab. It makes sense that output from the amp goes into the input of the cab, but it's not immediately apparent to someone who doesn't know as much. This is why the other comment said "to clarify this".

Who?

Most manufacturers, guitarists, techs, journalists...I've seen too many people talk about tapping their humbuckers with push-pull pots...

@@tit-an-nium5673 All. Forever.

Yeah I've even seen guitar reviews, which try to differentiate which guitar has a "true" coil split and which one "only" has an allegedly cheaper coil tap. Makes absolutely no sense after Colin explained it.

@@alanst.4417 Right?! Coil tapping was always described as a "cheap" alternative. Though I think the sound of a coil split is better.

4 control knobs 3 switch positions 2 humbucking pickups And a structurally flawed headstoooooooock!

@@derpimusmaximus8815 Makes me think of the Les Pauls they did in the late 70s that had a laminated neck and a volute. I acquired such a Les Paul...

pretty sure he said "fieeeve thaousand tardens"

Eye, you take your tern ind put duwn the grreatist ghutair eever!

Right. Even the manufacturers use both terms interchangeably, it's stupid.

If your looper has only one output, It means your separate guitar parts are summed ay the output, carrying only one signal to the amp. When you try to plug more than one guitar (separate outputs) they're no longer being summed and act as two distinct signals. I hope that was clear :)

Thanks yes but I'm still kerfuffled by the phasing issues, lucky I have a few amps so no one needs to share. I'd just like to see some O scope vids of what happens to the signals as the wave form changes from input to preamp and so on through the circuit finally resulting distortions at the driver.

@@PooNinja If you're plugging into the same input using a Y connector then both guitars are wired in parallel. When this happens the differences in current are substracted and the final output is that wobbly, out of phase sound. The same thing happens when using position 2 and 4 of a standard stratocaster guitar, where the middle pickup is wired in parallel with either the bridge or the neck, it doesn't sound as bad because the currents in the pickups are very similar to each other, some frequencies are still lost though, specially in the high end of the spectrum

A bit of an impedance mismatch too I would expect!

FlamingLuigi it’s like treble, but affects the highest high frequencies on amp. It’s kind of the treble of treble.

It's the tone control of the poweramp section

@@ChuranuQC So is Resonance the "bass" section of the power amp?

@@robgillanofficial I don't know!

I case you missed it, Colin actually did a video on this recently: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Z9iKpJSduZm8Ymw.html

should work as u described; each coil will have to be tapped individually and wired to a switch to engage the the two diff outputs so would be a hassle to make; most engineers, builders, and technicians will probs tell u to find another more convenient way to change the gain on your guitar output signal

i actually looked into this and gibson did this very thing on a guitar. it used a volume pot that controlled the volumes for both windings. volumes for both full up sounds like a normal humbucker but turn one down and it starts losing gain little volume and starts to sound more like a p90 without the hum. this was not splitting the coil it was tapping the coil but with volume controls not a on or off switch. allowed for interesting tones because you could control the volume for both individual winds

An effects loop is easy to understand if you think of it as this: An opportunity for you to put some "effects" in the middle of your amp, not in front of it. I'll explain... All guitar amps have two main sections. 1) a "preamp" (or "preamplifier") and 2) a "power amp" (power amplifier). The preamp is the section that you plugin to and it has levels for EQ, Gain, etc. It adds colour, gain, and possibly some volume to the signal coming straight out of the guitar. BUT! It's not the actual amplifier (when you think of the amplifier as being the part that takes your signal and boosts it ((amplifies it)) much, much louder than it comes out of your guitar) which is why it's called the "preamp" - it comes before (pre) the amp. The power amp, on the other hand, is the last stage of the guitar amp and it's where your signal is boosted and output to your speaker(s). So, the effects loop is basically a couple of jacks that allow you to add in some stuff between those two things, if you so choose. And many guitarists have discovered that they prefer certain effects pedals to come either before or after the "preamp" section. So you won't often see a distortion or overdrive pedal in an effects loop (though it totally works!) because most guitarists like it to run into the preamp (between your guitar and the amp). And similarly, many guitarists prefer the sound of delay or reverb pedals AFTER the preamp (try both and see if you can hear the difference) - so, in order to get it to come after the preamp, they need to use an effects loop, otherwise the signal gets sent to the power amp and comes out the speakers - there is no other place for them to put it! The effects loop "send" is just the line coming out of the amp and it should go into the Input jack on your pedal(s). Wire up one or more in succession, then take the Output of the last pedal and run a cable back into the effects Return jack. You've just completed the circuit and "looped in" your pedals to the section AFTER the preamp but BEFORE the power amp. Hope this helps!

@@robgillanofficial This helps allot actually! Thanks for taking the time to help out and go in depth!

@@GSHYBR1D You're welcome!

@@GSHYBR1D The effects loop also opens up really cool possibilities for other things. On some amps (Fender, primarily, I believe), they will list the Effects Send as the "Pre Out" and the Effects Return as "Power In". You don't, strictly speaking, NEED to have the whole loop connected to get sound. If you have an amp modeller or a pedal that has a Preamp built in, you can actually run those straight into the Effects Return/Power In and it will amplify your modeller/preamp while bypassing the amp's built in preamp. To do this, you'd go: Guitar > Preamp Pedal/Amp Modeller > Effects Return. Then you'd use the amp's Master Volume to control the output level. So you're basically just using the amps power amp and not the preamp, so you don't get the color and tone of the amp. This may be desirable if you are trying to amplify a Line 6 Helix or Axe FX amp modeller so you can jam live or get some volume on stage from a real speaker cabinet. Using both the preamp and power amp sections in combination with an amp modeller is the basis for something called the "4 cable method" (sometimes abbreviated as 4CM) which allows you to have a single unit (like a Line 6 Helix, let's say) have effects in front of the amp and in the effects loop. It'd take a lot more work to describe how that flows, but it's a fun read - if you feel like going down the rabbit hole, google it!

They don't!

The don’t normally, but occasionally can give a kind of out of phase sound, which you can hear from someone like Peter Green(early Fleetwood Mac and the Blues Breakers after Clapton)

@@jordanlake471 IF wired out of phase with the other or the magnet itself is reversed in the pick up, as is the case with Greenie! Listen to the original version of Black Majic Woman!

And what is resonance? Why are both knobs separated from the main tone stack?

Most are post o/t!

In most cases I *believe* it is a control on the amount of negative feedback in the signal. en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Negative-feedback_amplifier

Put it on 10 and enjoy the crispiness, that's all you need to know. lol

Normal for the Scots

60fps spletting

50

Ofir Izhar - Fun fact: You’ve heard of 60 cycle hum? In the UK it’s actually 50 cycle hum.

Everywhere else too! The whole world, (bar N America) runs on 50Hz AC! Shits me how so many in other countries PANDER to US viewers re 60 Hz hum when THEY are the minority of mains power AC users! ONLY the US/CA experience 60 Hz hum, everywhere else it's 50!

:-))) - about 50 miles...

chicken pickers use peck ups maybe?

The strings tend to slightly vibrate behind the nut and a hair band helps this issue by muting anything past the nut. Some say it adds clarity but I never found an audible difference tbh

Maybe they are just TOSSERS! ;oP

Because some people play funk, pop, surf, blues and rock music where single coils are best.

Mainly because of the almost hi-fi clarity, although the hum is just too much. (But what about a hum-bucker with a resonant peak of about 20k Hertz?)