Thank you. It’s mostly trial and error, however, I have been having great successes with the growing of many tropical fruit trees. Tropical fruit trees are surprisingly adaptable, though in our climate, we’ll need to pay special attention to their growing requirements particular in the winter and summer months.

Thank you. It’s mostly trial and error, however, as I gain more experience, I’m finding great success.

Totally. My climate is currently going through a very bizarre weather change. It’s been chilly and forecasted to be in the mid to high 40°s for the next few days, in May.

@Tropical Central Valley yea were in the low 60s for our highs all week and at night its going to in the 40s. Normally it would be hot and dry already. It's cold and damp. This is so weird. I usually hate the heat but I have a peach tree with shot hole and all my plants need some sub. The dry heat will help with the shothole fungus. My poor peach tree looks so terrible right now. I can't wait for this cold weather to end so all my plants can start looking better getting some growth on them.

It sounds like you’re in my neck of the woods. If so, we should be getting our May temperatures next week, jumping to 87°F.

@Tropical Central Valley thank God I hope so. Yea I'm in temecula, if you dont know where that is its about 1hr north of san diego. It's a bit of a drive from central valley, 4 -5 hours, but it's close enough that we get the same weather patterns for the most part.

I’m surprised your region is also experiencing this cold front. It’ll be all over soon.

Thank you.

Hello. Welcome to the channel. It’s mostly trial and error on my part as my climate is not inducive to tropical fruit trees.

Thank you.

That’s awesome. Instead of getting a grafted starfruit tree, you can actually try and germinate the seeds from the starfruit that you bought, as they germinate quite easily.

@@TropicalCentralValley I'll try it in two months though after 3 yrs overwintering potted trees inside and having them all over the front yard I don't think my wife is going to be excited if I start new batches of seedlings. I'm gonna get a grafted one just so I can put it in the ground in the Spring. I have 27 potted plants and will be planting almost half of them in March.

That’s awesome. When planted in the ground, your tropical fruit trees will take off, given the vast resources available in the ground.

Thank you. As this was the first year that your white sapote and guava have fruited, they may simply have been off a bit on their fruiting process. Assuming your trees are both in the ground, I would actually remove all of the fruits. There’s a good chance the fruits may ripen on the countertop. Doing so allows the trees to expend their energy on surviving the winter. Going forward though, the trees will likely get back on their “normal” blooming and fruiting schedule. For instance, many of my guava trees start to bloom and set fruit in late spring to late summer. There are certain varieties that do bloom and fruit later, such as the Vietnamese guava. For white sapote, mine generally blooms around January/February. Any fruits set do need to stay on the tree (for maximum sweetness). In my case, the fruits are ripen in November/December.

@@TropicalCentralValley thank you so much for the information brother. I actually did take a guava and sapote off the tree and let them "ripen" on the counter. The guava changed color and became real fragrant, but tasted horrible lol. Sapote had very little sweetness. But i will remove all the fruits and hopefully the tress get on a better flowering/fruiting schedule. Also, my tress are all in ground and i practice all the techniques you preach i.e. heavy mulch, foliar feeds, ag sulfur to the ground, etc. Thank you again for all the great information

You’re very welcome. I’m confident your trees will produce better fruits in the coming years. The thing with trees is the fact that the trees produce more and more (and better tasting) fruits as they mature.

@@TropicalCentralValley you are the MAN... if you're ever up north in the Sacramento area, you should definitely stop by. You can see 1st hand your inspiration at work

Thank you.

My soursop seedling did great, much better than the rollinia. With the heater malfunction, it had reached 33°F.

I’m actually not certain about the variety, but the stalks are quite thick. I primarily use my bamboo as a wind breaker as well as shade protection.

I actually dispelled many of these myths in previous videos: Tropical Fruit Tree Myths kzfaq.info/get/bejne/o9ibktZoy9a3gnU.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iJqDgpZ2qZvccmg.html&feature=share

Although I do not have a Ross sapote, I do have a number of other sapote and sapodilla fruit trees. From personal experience, many sapote and sapodilla trees can handle my cold down to the high 20°s (Mamey being the exception), though your zone may be a bit too much.

Papaya can definitely take 45º and even lower. You should check the other factors

Sometimes there’s no logical explanation to why certain tropical fruit trees, including seedlings perform better than others. There’s just too many variables that contribute to their health and decline. For example, many of my camito (star apple) and jackfruit seedlings which are purported to grow in USDA Zone 9b suffered severe cold stress while my rambutan and durian seedlings seem to have faired better in low to mid 30°s.

Yes, papaya trees do great in the Central Valley. All of mine, various varieties have been able to handle the winter without issues, though, some branches may show signs of damage, they always bounced up as the weather warms up.

@@TropicalCentralValley thank you.

You’re very welcome.

Although the sugar apple is purported to survive in our climate, they likely will defoliate completely when cold stressed. I’ve actually lost a few sugar apple trees in the past due to the frost. In my case, I do have my sugar apple in my heated greenhouse. Although I didn’t specifically mentioned it in this video, I did notice some leave damage as the result of the failure of my greenhouse heater. If possible, I would shelter your sugar apple during the winter months, ensuring the temperature do not drop below 40°. Keep in mind, even if your tree completely defoliates, there’s a good likelihood that the tree will bounce back in spring. Just take special caution to minimize your watering during the winter months.

@@TropicalCentralValley thank you so much 👍

You’re very welcome.

Did you get fruit of your sugar apple tree after the winter dormancy?

Not yet. It’s actually still pretty cold in my region, around 38° in some days.

All of my seedless variety guava fruit trees came from Mimosa Nursery in Los Angeles.

@@TropicalCentralValley Excellent, thank you!

You’re very welcome.

Thank you. Luck helps, but it’s mostly trial and error.

I do not sell any of my tropicals. If you are nearing the Los Angeles region, there are a good number of tropicals fruit tree nurseries there.

@@TropicalCentralValleyKool. I am near to you, but I definitely understand.

Perhaps a better approach may be to germinate them from seeds, as the seedlings will perform much better than any grafted or air layered trees.

The neighbors have been very cool. They’re more surprised that these tropical fruit trees can grow here than anything else. Additional, it helps too to share the fruits as there’s just too much for me to eat.

Thank you. My trees have gone through worse and have all survived, though with some damage. But all have managed to bounce back up.

I do. I have a black variety in the ground, about 5 years old now. I also have a 2 year old Scarlet Jaboticaba in the ground. No fruits yet.

@@TropicalCentralValley Nice! Would love to see them someday.

Definitely. The annoyance I have with the jaboticaba is the fact that they take a very long time to produce fruits, even from grafted trees, though the Scarlet varieties have been purported to start producing fruits in about 3 years or so.

@@TropicalCentralValley I live in Uruguay, luckily I was able to get "jabuticaba híbrida" from a nursery in Southern Brazil so they are used to the cold weather. They are well known for being early producers, and are supposed to bare fruit in 3 to 4 years when grown from seed. Also, they are supposed to be very reliable when grown from seed

They are well adapted to containers too. All in all, a really interesting variety

That’s awesome. Unfortunately mine was a graft tree and takes longer to acclimate.

how big is your Tamarind tree? and do you leave it outdoors? i also have one that is at least 2 ft tall and I don't want to bring it in...im in Georgia

@@caribbeanqueen374 it is not mine but in a public park. About 12 feet tall. It is under a protective edge of a tall canopy on a slope so no cold air gets trapped.

@@caribbeanqueen374 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/p6xiotFhzcy9m40.html I put a video online so you can see. It’s about 12 feet. I would suggest in Georgia bringing it inside. What area of Georgia?