Multiple issues here. 1) Never mentions how old the acrylic roof is. Acrylic coatings tend to lose 1-2 mils of thickness per year due to weathering which is why most manufacturers offering 10 years or more for warranty purposes require at least 2 coats. Better products with higher acrylic solids perform better and offer more flexibility and this coating from visual observations doesn't appear to have had such high solid concentrations. This roof appears to be at least 15 years old or more given how brittle the coating was, but he doesn't mention the age of the coating once. 2) Obvious to anyone who has been on hundreds of metal roofs that were coated with either acrylic or silicone, this roof was prepared poorly for the coating application. As with any paint or coating, preparation is everything if you want it to stick. He scrapes and wire brushes the metal roof and never bothers to clean the dust off or wipe the area he is working on before applying the product. So now a majority of his wonderful repair and product is adhered to dust on the metal panel area from wire brushing. 3) Metal roofs tend to have a lot of expansion and contraction, so as the original coating becomes more brittle there will obviously be cracks and fissures forming on the coating surface. 4) He runs panhead fasteners into the pan of the panel, not the best place for fasteners without an EPDM grommet on the fastener. Given the force he applied while driving the fasteners, my guess would be all the fasteners he installed were overdriven and will eventually begin to back out due to expansion, contraction and being overdriven. 5) He has applied his product which is relatively thick and has basically created a coating seam that is bucking water on the uphill side of the repair. Constant rains will eventually work its way under the repair given the area was prepared so poorly over time creating the same issues he is highlighting. 6) Did he bother to check if the rusted fasteners utilized were even compatible with the metal panel. Often times, contractors fail to realize some fasteners they use during repairs are not compatible with certain metals and this accelerates rusting issues between the fastener and the panel. The entire thought process that coatings are bad for metal roofs when in fact you are applying a coating yourself is ridiculous at best. As someone who has served as expert witness in multiple litigation cases on issues revolving around roof system installations, I can state I have seen extremely good coating applications and have in fact represented some in court that were not so good. A majority of the issues revolved around poor preparation with maybe 1-2% of my investigations involving around issues with the product itself. With any coatings, choosing the right coating and thorough preparation of the substrate either provides a long term solution or a short term nightmare. Bottom line, do your homework and understand the most expensive coating isn't always the best. All in all, if this was meant as a positive promotion for their product, it was done poorly at best.

I used Kool Seal roof coating on metal roofs on mobile homes in Florida for years and never had a problem. The old silver coating and the white coating too.

Not a fan of elastomerics but for some roofs that don't really need to extend their service life i guess it is an OK fix. Our roofing company has used pretty much everything out there over the last 25 years. We use only one products after 8 years of success and not callbacks. There is a Liquid butyl rubber made by epdmcoatings. What we like about it is that it does not need a primer for any of the roof types we have applied it over that goes for metal, BUR, epdm, foam but NOT silicone. also it is a one coat application so we close much more business with this product because we come in as the lowest bid! It is a solvent product so primarily the reason it last all the years. Cheers

Liquid application on Metal Roofs are actually a great option . This coating problem he is talking about us a combination of cheap coating ,bad surface prep and poor application .

That seal will last 3 years tops, if that. Not to mention it was applied over an apparent wet and very cold surface which means adhesion is minimum. This will dry, crack and peel very fast. Also, the black color will take a beating from UV rays that will further accelerate deterioration. I'd love to see the state of this patch currently as this video is now 3 years old.

I am from Chennai, India. You really saved me. I was about to buy the "So-called metal roof heat insulation coating". I might have ended with the rusty roof!

Jetcoat and Henry Extreme sprayed on with a Graco Pro in three layers would work just fine in MOST applications. White is not very reflective compared to dedicated reflective coatings folks. Use your resources folks. NOT angry contractors fixing crappy jobs after the fact. Bad prep is the key of this video along with climate and weather in regions

At <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="645">10:45</a> you say, "acrylic, all silicon coatings I don't think works" & then repair with Turbo Poly Seal, but list Super Silicon Seal as your best advise in your Summary text - which of the two products do you prefer?

So what do you suggest to coat a metal roof? I don't have a leak but my metal roof is in need of a coating in general and I typically hire someone to do it and they put on a Kool Coat in double layers.

Interesting topic. I plan to paint my roof with a white acrylic paint like that. There is a difference though. I see that you had ice underneath the paint. My house is in the tropics where I NEVER have ice formation. I think the melting and freezing of ice (which causes expansion) is a major cause for the paint to be pulled off the roof. Even if it would affect the durability of my roof, it's probably worth it painting my roof, because of the aircon energy I can save from painting it white. I do have a lot of expansion and contraction from the hot sun, but perhaps the white paint can help to reduce that expansion a bit.

There it’s a wrong coat. The good surface preparation and right paint it’s going to extend the roof life a lot.

I'm sorry but you don't know half of what you're talking about. The roof is rusted and cracked because the acrylic coating was never reapplied to spec and/or the roof wasn't prepped/coated properly. No coating will last forever and has to be reapplied/maintained on a regular basis. This is the guy that shows up to your job and tries to sell you a new roof for twice the cost. A roof restoration, done properly and maintained properly, will have none of the issues he shows

Our 30 year old ministorage has 30k sq ft of 29ga galv or galvalum on 5 of 6 buildings. Similar product as your video but never painted. Purlins are 1x3 wood spaced too wide at 36"-42" on factory wood trusses 3/12 slope. Concrete block sidewalls. New gutters and downspouts. In our 3 years have learned that NOBODY goes on the roof except a personally trained worker. Fortunately we identified dents which allowed gaps in the overlap seams (from 30 years of untrained roof-walkers) and have sucked them together with rubber-grommeted screws on top of the metal profiles. Replaced probably 25% of the suspect screws with larger diameter (75% yet to go) Appears leak problems are NOT accelerating, original fastenings mostly without rust stain (thanks to galvalum corrosion protection & rubber isolation washers). We've made significant gains against the very few customer complaints of water. Was a risky investment! BUT the facility is below road-level such that the roofs present a poor image of our business and brand. Multicolor stains over white oxidized alum as you would expect. Unthinking, I thot to paint to achieve unform color, prhps white for heat control. But I know it will get dirty. THANKS for the headsup about coating. But what shall I do for COSMETIC? And how to invest in a long-life impermeable roof? I'm thinking to add z-metal purlins on top of existing roof, one above each 1x3, plus one between, then a new powder coated roof over top. This way 190 tenants aren't exposed during the project. And prhps we insulate the space between old and new roof. How can I reach you as a consultant?

Preparation is essential and proper application is important. However, using an acrylic elastomeric that doesn't lose key characteristics, like essential flexibility (elongation), is key to a superior roof coating. Most roof coatings on the market will use inexpensive plasticizers (for flexibility), which leech out, and cause eventual cracking and/or flaking. Same thing happens with asphaltic based products (i..e aluminum asphalt), as their oils will leech out of their coating. Acrymax's acrylic elastomeric won't lose their flexibility as it is built into the backbone of the very polymer (of their resin). This allows Acrymax coated roofs to have their life extended almost indefinitely with simple periodic recoats (at 5, 10, 15, or even 20 year intervals). Recoats simply maintain mil thickness. The thicker, the more robust, the longer before a recoat. See this video link, highlighting a college's roofs, done with Acrymax nearly 40 years ago and still going strong today: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/h5ida9V5p6-5hps.html

In actuality, the problem is way more complex than what he's making it sound. It could have been a cheap coating. It could have been poor Surface Prep. We have no idea how old the coating was in the first place. It's very important to recoat your roof when it's necessary, not when you have leaks. It's also important to use a rust inhibiting primer underneath your top coat and seal off your Fasteners with caulk. His logic is very over simplified.

Acrylic coatings are great for metal roofs. Like you mentioned in your videos, it's all about preparation. They obviously didn't prep this one. In California some contractors use a seam tape that has a peel and stick backing and polyester surface. Once that's installed over seams and voids we apply acrylic gel and then after it's cured we apply lMetacrylics coating. That particular Astec didn't fare too well in Ca. Too much ceramic in the formula and lots of what you see there. I enjoy your videos 👍🏽. Keep them coming.

I have been coating roofs for 21 years and I agree with everything you have said . What I like to do is use Polly seal and then coat with asphalt aluminum ,just because asphalt aluminum makes it look nice and you can't see all of the patches and because it is a very thin coating ,asphalt based coating it wears away and doesn't peal but it must be non fiber . Any silicone, acrylic or elastomeric I have ever used has failed horribly within 5 years and would have been better off to not do at all. Also asphalt aluminum does great on rusty areas ,I have coated roofs that have been on over 18 years it doesn't stop leaks but it wasn't designed for that but it makes a nice top coat.

preparations makes the job. good video

i love how the older generation just gets things done. no debating or talking it over but a decisive strike plan

It's called washing very well and priming all your bolts and edges then coming through and spraying it correctly alot of painters don't know the proper way to spray always spray your corners and edges first similar to cutting in maybe 3 panels then come back and spray your face surface I've sprayed many metal roofs and never got a call back it's all about taking your time and taking pride for your customers

I have been coating roofs for 20 years . The best way to coat a roof is to, patch all nail heads with through the roof / geocel. And coat roof with asphalt aluminum non fibered . Asphalt aluminum wears off and never peels , all silicone and acrylic will eventually let lose over time and then you have a mess. Also asphalt alum is a rust inhibitive roof coating . This man knows what he is talking about

It depends too on who installs it. I worked for one roofing company that had put put on the coating that needed 16 hours minimum dry weather and we slapped in on 2 hours before the rain came.

the man is right, Coatings are a bad idea. Do it right the first time. replace the metal roof with a new metal roof. Coatings are a temperary fix at best. The cost of replacing a "coated roof" is substanially higher then an untouched one. It's like kicking the can a few years down the road, the problem does not go away.

I have a Galvalume roof and would never just slap an elastomeric coating on it without surface prep. I would first spray it with a bleach solution to kill mold and bacteria, rinse, and then make a dop stick by stuffing an old athletic sock inside another one and zip-tying it to the end of a screw-type wooden rake replacement handle. I would get a gallon of Ospho rust converter and saturate the dop stick and dop each screw, twisting the stick to get thorough coverage. I also would seek out any rust (generally not a problem unless you let the roof go way too long before taking action). I would then use aluminized fibered roof coating to cover each screw and seam before applying elastomeric coating. I would then wait several days until the coating had cured and then apply two coats of elastomeric coating, letting the first coat dry thoroughly.

I would highly recommend going back with the same type of screws it’s not very practical to use anything else on a roof

I would have chemically treat the rust first to neutralize it. Grinding off thick rust and covering it up just looks good. The rust remains and grows again. IT is a band aid that looks good. The rust remains.

This is just an example of a bad job. My grandfather, my Dad and I have a combined experience of over 80 years of roofing. We have seen acrylic coated coated metal last for 20 years without a recoat. On the other hand, we have seen them fail just after 4 years on some bad jobs. This video is not a good representation of an acrylic coated metal. Just bad coating or bad preperation.

Yeah man, acrylic and silicone are not the same thing. also paint and elastomeric coating are not the same thing, far from it. The reason for these failures is caused by the age of the coating and further more elastomeric coatings, acrylic or silicone are to prolong the life of the Roof. Not to be the Roof. Poor maintenance no matter the material used will lead to a bad roof.

I will point out some facts. 1) Surface preparation is everything on any roof coating. a. Remove any loose rust with a wire wheel. b. Treat solid rust with an agent that chemically changes the rusted surface. c. Replace bad screws d.Pressure wash and THOROUGHLY DRY. Make sure pressure wash removes all loose material 2. Epoxy is best by acrylic will probably work if you follow surface prep. It is almost cheaper to replace than to properly coat depending upon surface preparation required and material choice.

Roof was not cleaned properly before wrong acrylic coating was installed. Should have used silicone. Best to fill flutes and install a TPO membrane roof using the Rino Bond method of attachment.

This Guy is Amazing. I cant imagine the idiots who put the coating on it and how the owners were looking for a Man who Knows His STUFF!

I would think something like a hard enamel would be better. Like Rustoleum, or even an epoxy paint of some sort.

Too good sir respect for you from India

I'm getting a snap-lock standing seam metal roof installed on my house. Would recommend that I get bare (unpainted & without acrylic coating) AZ55 Galvalume steel panels, instead of the more common acrylic coated or painted steel panels?

Yep. I spent over 1000 on 3 cans of rubbet coating and found out water trapped under and rusting metal away.

Great video..one question, on an R-panel roof if it looks somewhat bend in or stepped on hard..like someone stepped on it very hard and now it looks like bend downwards and to the sides where it was stepped on....will this case the R-panel to leak?

Can someone tell me if they wanted to change the color of their metal roof could they do that? What product / preparation would they use?

Im apply primer coating Idont have problem like this .now my point is roof coating is not for ever

Ty kindly 🙏.. Northern California and two roof contractors messing around. Can you come here....6/22

Sooooo what do you to do a metal roof that's coating has worn off over time then? You can't just leave it uncoated or cover the entire roof with that poly seal stuff.

Is there anything you can put on metal roofing or basically just leave it natural the way you buy it would anybody happen know

Just like some of the under coatings sprayed under cars on the frame. Some just trap the water & salt causing it to rot out faster.

The metal roof on my garage is over 50 years old. Has original coating. No holes no leaks. Leaving it alone

Any advice for removing rust on large scale for a big roof like in your video? I saw people use acids

Poor guys freezing up there. He needs a work blanket & pillow 🤣😂😆

Roof Doctor, I have an older metal roof that has begun to leak. It was put on with roofing nails. The gaskets are old and some of the nails have begun to back out. How would you suggest I repair it. Replace all the nails with larger screws or..? And seal the seams?

I'm glad I found this video. I have a leaking metal roof and was considering a coating. Now I know better.

i have 900mt of metal roof and that black thing with time sun burs it and it turs like dust,,i clean everything and use a 20 year warranty silicon coating and its 6 years now and in perfect condition

What do you Recommend for painting Polycarbonate Plastic Roofing Material??

It's why people use FLEX SEAL(WHITE) to seal the whole roof at least 3 full coatings. NOT little bit here and there because it will cause that problem. You must cover the whole roof. 3 coatings will do it and last for decades. It cost a little more and saves you big trouble if done right.

Does turbo poly seal dry hard or does it stay tacky 🤔

And whats the black stuff you put??

Panheads without a silicone or rubber washer? Fleece? I didnt see an acual break in metal. Preperation is always key! Sealing properly, the coatings is essentially necessary! Its up to the owner whether he wants to spent big money or go cheaper. Details prepping all fastners, screws, etc. from what i saw, improper prep work was performed. Bad robots!

this roof was not cleaned very well no etch primer and was over coated bad job

I would say the surface was not prepped before applying paint. That's like painting dirt .

I have a question. I have a very nice mobile home. I have a metal roof. Every time it rains or the wind blows I have this grey matter that lands on my deck. To me, it looks like grey silver sealant or something. Any idea what I would replace it with?

This looks like it wasn’t cleaned, primed and even applied properly

Proper installation of a coating, "WITH" a proper cleaning and good primer, will extend the roof for many years. This coating install was incorrectly done. A proper install will give a 15 year warranty.

You just have to do it right we do them all the time and offer 20-year warranties on them, have never had a call back.

For a guy who do the job and understand by heart is someone to believe NOT just any expert BS.

The main purpose of those white color roof coatings is to reflect the solar heat. Without the coating, the roof would get unbearably hot, and heat up the space beneath. I'm glad that you show this problem, but not painting is not a good solution either. There should be a better solution.

lmao "I hate coatings" goes back to brushing

I apply roof coatings for a living. First off,preparation is key! And also a good,top quality coating is very important as well. Looks like improper prep and a junk coating!

There are many procedural problems in the whole system. FIRST is the preparation of the substrate. Clearly, the metal roof was not prepared. It's dirty even before the coat was applied. So the result is the coat did not adhere to the metal substrate. All the rust should have been removed using rust neutralizer and pressure washed. SECOND the acrylic coating was applied using rollerbrush and paint brush INSTEAD of the airless waterproofing sprayer. The difference is a WORLD'S DIFFERENCE. By using brush, microbubbles are created by the back and forth movement of the brush. These bubbles will remain INSIDE the coat making the coat ESSENTIALLY a sponge, thus absorbing water instead of repelling water. Professional applicators use AIRLESS PAINT SPRAYER to avoid creating bubbles in the coat. REMEMBER, AS LONG AS THERE ARE BUBBLES IN THE COAT, WATER WILL PENETRATE EVENTUALLY especially if the substrate is not prepared. NOTICE how the guy in the video applied his waterproofing sealant using the brush. NOT PROFESSIONAL AT ALL. Wait until the weather warms up and his coat is unable to adjust to the expansion of the metal roof. It will also break because it is of a different material from the metal that it is adhered to. As you know, any material when heated expands. So when summer comes, and the metal roof expands, his sealant doesn't expand as long as the metal roof. Acrylic or Elastomeric can expand during extreme heat up to 100 degrees Centigrade (boiling point) so it will not break. The reason the acrylic broke in the video was that it did not adhere to the metal roof because of poor application procedure and NOT BECAUSE OF THE ACRYLIC. Check out the other parts of the roof. They are still intact. This guy doesn't know what he is doing. He is just scaring the hell out of the viewer, fooling them into buying his product that he applies using a paintbrush. Use an AIRLESS PAINT SPRAYER WHEN APPLYING HIGH VISCOSITY SEALANTS AND PAINT and NOT ROLLERBRUSH OR HAND BRUSH. If your contractor doesn't use AIRLESS PAINT/SEALANT SPRAYER, stay away from them. That is RULE NO. 1.

I agree you can’t coat every metal roof. Some are just too far gone, you either need a super aggressive primer $$$$$ or tear off.

What can I used to those covers then

Thats why I prefer a petrolium based coating.

Prep is a job in itself. My opinion is that the first step wasn't done property and that is sanding cleaning brushing away blowing etc.

My company offers up to 20 year warranties on roof coatings. They are a long lasting, cheaper alternative to replacing the roof.

What do you think about polyurea coating on metal roof?

At 9.15 when you screw the sheets together and water comes out. Can this be due to condensation running down underneath the top sheet into the lap? Sealing the top surface of the joint keeps this water in. There is a reason why you should probably leave the lower edge of the lap joint open to drain. The alternative is to seal the top and the bottom of the overlap to keep the condensation out, making sure you use screws with washers to ensure the water tightness there as well.

CI Roofing I Have to agree and Disagree with your opinion We have Sprayed over 700,000 sft so far in 2020 of Acrylic on Metal Roofs and don't have that issue At the end of the day its all about proper preparation and cleaning Theres is a lot of flyby night shady roofers out there So I feel you not being partial to the product that Hundreds of vendors sell the Acrylic The application you have applied is the basic Roof cement that I totally despise that makes by Coating look bad after it dries because it shows thru I respect your view But I still trust Acrylics if applied correct

Great information on metal roofing. I have a question and would greatly like your professional opinion. What do you recommend for a metal roof that has some surface rust that is not deep, but needs to be coated with something? Thank you very much!

This coating was not properly installed. That’s what caused this. I have roofs I coated 10+ years ago with no problems.

Silicone coating fits dry and hot areas more since it’s UV resistant

What to used to bprotect the roof galavanae

When there is bubble or blisters, meaning your applicators did not follow the proper paint system...prime it properly, cure it them, do the top coat for 2 coats only. Don't paint if you a high moisture period. Bubbles will really come!

Enduris coating has served me well.

I've been spraying semi loads of acrylics for 12 years and my dad was spraying them since 95. We've never had this problem on a metal roof EVER. I walked a 50,000 SQ ft roof last year that my dad did an acrylic coating on, the head of maintenance told me the roof has never leaked a drop. We acid etch, pressure wash, prime, reinforce all our seams with polyester fabric and caulk all our screws before we coat them. They work perfectly for us. This is a very bad application and not a very good product, I've seen lots of problems with Aztec

LOVE YOUR VIDEOS. ARE YOU SOUTH AFRICAN? DEFINATELY HAVE THE ACCENT. SO IF YOU DONT RECOMMEND ACRYLIC PAINT WHAT PAINT IS BEST FOR ZINC ROOFS? COMMENTING FROM SOUTH AFRICA

I use the top acrylic coating out there and I guarantee it’s a lot better product than the junk you just applied! When I get done coating a metal roof it’s more waterproof than the day it was installed.

Hi there, thais for the good video. I have here a 60,000 water tank with rusty big patches inside of it, and I saw today little drops coming from the outside. Help, how to patch this up? Could I use your technic, I also have been thinking of cement with water proofer but then I have to do the whole tank, it looked like a cold long day on that roof. Greetings from southern Spain.

The main problem here is they did a poor job applying the coating its uneven and sloppy. These coatings need to be applied evenly.

Wouldn't roofing screws be best option for safety on steal roofs? Depending on pitch I guess. Regarding this video I'd prefer raised hex screws for safety. Keep in mind i know minimal about roofing

I am wondering if it will work on my RV roof.

That’s why we reinforce all of our seams with fabric. A good coating job is as good as any roofing... a bad coating job is as bad as any...

I think they do work. I've had little problems using elastomeric. Whoever applied the coat on this job obviously applied it wrong.. I can see right through it. Here in New Mexico the roof will hit 130 140 degrees and black tar will last a few years before the heat eventually eats it. I've found white coatings work best on metal roofs.

'''''''''''''''''''''''You're the best teacher! Thank you so much

I want use flex seal max for my patio roof that is metal..what do you think of that.??

Havnt you applied the asphalt aluminum coating before? I thought you liked that stuff

Is right metal and plastic sealer make corrosion🙀

can you put the turbo poly seal over existing tar & flashing?

Worst mistake of my life was to have my 20 yo metal roof painted. Now I have paint peels all over my property. Absolute nightmare.

I think I would have brought the poly up over the sides

thank you

My zinc awning has rusted very quickly without a coating, so how do you stop the rust if not with a coating?

I can promise you it wont last forever it will leak after a long time but does work better then other products

Roof coating is a grift. Not fixing just lipstick on a pig. This guy is right, any comments otherwise is not from a roofer just someone who tore off a garage with shingles thinks they know how to roof.

Roof coatings are great and much less than a brand new metal roof. You have to clean, prime & install the coating properly. Some manufacturers make rust inhibitor primer. Also temp and moisture makes a difference. Gaco makes a great product. Only one I would use. Silicone!!!!

I have a metal roof about 40 years old, the nails are not working anymore and I need to install screws, what would you recommend? A screw with a rubber gasket? THanks