I kinda miss the old bench. I like how it was gradually getting scarred from your adventures.

The new mat is nice, but if I'm honest I kindof prefer the old MDF bench -- burns & all (those gave it some flavor!)

All real benches have cuts, digs and burn marks, also SMD parts buried in the crevices - adds character!

Old bench was best bench. It was reminders of the good times, the bad times, the fiery times. It would be a good way to get new viewers interested in videos that left the biggest scars.

Hi Clive, thank you for all of your FINE work! Expat Australian retired in Thailand here, these "dusk switches" are everywhere here, mostly they work quite well. My personal experience is that "if they are going to fail", it will be within about 3 weeks. Have 3 of these in our home in Phuket, no problems. One that controls the night lights in our bathroom for the rescue poodles failed quite quickly. Replaced all fine. Really like the fact that these have a proper relay, other devices with triacs, or some such, do not work properly, we had to add a "real relay", for the LED lighting to work correctly, frustratinf, but now everything works. Love your videos!

always fall asleep with late night Clive... not because it's boring... but his voice is so calm! relaxes me! love this, never stop please

Thanks, Clive, when you said 'common collector' in the description of the circuit it reminded me why the supply rail tends to be labelled VCC in bipolar transistor circuits, and why it's labelled VDD in FET circuits. I've been thinking about this for a while since my memory started failing.

oh no what have you done thats like ashens throwing out his couch, you just cant do that

I like the bench. It has character, and shows the scars of the adventures you've shared with us, the fortunate viewers.

The old bench was heritage! It bore the scars of all those Big Clive episodes from the past, so I'm definitely in the "Bring the Old Bench" back division here! As for the 555, yes a rather vintage IC, and the first ever IC I used (Practical Wireless Metal Detector using a 555 as a tunable oscillator (variable R, constant C)). Maplin did a mail-order book entitled "101 Useful 555 Circuits" which is up in the loft somewhere - everything from kitchen timers (obviously) to model rail controllers / signalling controllers, Christmas Light controllers, and a host of other applications. Seeing as they are so cheap it'll be interesting to buy a bagful and revisit my mis-spent youth!

I've been using one of these for years. I'm using it to turn on a 10W LED flood light each evening :)

I signed my soul away to Wago 5 years ago and have had no regrets. This message is sponsored by Wago.

Mat or no mat, keep making these vids, for someone who knows nothing of electronics in the detailes this is fascinatiing to watch and follow, and most often eeven learn something.

Is the relay coil really connected before the 100 ohm inrush resistor? The poor coil will see 325V spike when plugged in. This can also damage the output of the 555.

I have been using 2 of these for over 3 years now every day to run about 50-60W of lights from it for my backyard and my parents backyard. Installed once, never touched it again... works like a charm.

I graduated electronics school in 1978. I'm loving this. I can do all the new hi-tech stuff, but old discrete circuits are fun. There aren't many people that can do this anymore.

Thank you, Clive, for this teardown it has got me the circuit I needed in a roundabout way. This may interest people and hopefully, Clive or someone much smarter than me can figure this out and why it happened. I copied this 555 circuit down, I require a 12-volt photocell circuit so I removed the mains section. I took an old 555 and installed it on a test breadboard, I replaced the relay with a P-Channel Hexfet IRF9540N taking pin 3 of the 555 straight to the gate and using a 1Mega Ohm gate resistor connected to +12v. At first, I used a typical ORP12 type LDR, but on swapping this to a scrap component which I believe to be a phototransistor it worked fine with no component adjustments. Now for the interesting bit, I powered a tiny screw in mini 12volt bulb from the Hexfet and the whole thing was running from a Lead Acid battery, so plenty of current available. I wanted to load test it, so I stuck a 50 watt 12-volt Halogen bulb across the existing bulb, it did not light properly and the small existing bulb went dim, the 555 began to overheat??? even though it is not involved at all in powering the load. After quickly removing the supply and allowing the 555 to cool down, everything works perfectly again. I now have two 15 watt 12-volt screw in bulbs, so a total load across the Hexfet of 30 watts, I am actually quite happy with this, but I am still confused as to why the 555 got hot when I stuck the 50-watt load over the Hexfet. I can only assume the heavy inrush to the halogen made the supply rails fall too low for the 555 to function correctly. My knowledge of electronics is not fantastic, I do not do enough to get really clever at it, to me it is a tedious means to an end, supplying me with useful circuits to do the home projects I may find difficult to buy off the shelf circuits for. So any answers would be good, I am always curious about why some things happen. UPDATE, the issue I am assuming must have been supply rail related because rightly or wrongly I seem to have solved the issue, I have fed the 555 through a 1N5001 diode and installed 3x 5.5 volt 1Farad storage capacitors in series to create a 1farad 16.5volt capacitor instead of the tiny supply decoupler of 50uf that I had installed, thus giving the 555 its own virtual power supply. It can now switch 80 watts of power, yes the Hexfet starts to get a bit warm, but nothing a large heatsink would not sort out.

"secretly you're hoping it does go bang"....no secret here. I like it when things go bang.

Thanks Clive! Exactly what I would have needed for the LED flickering as I discussed on the discussion thread. I did change the unit for another DTD sensor and there is no flickering. The one I used from "Greenbrooke" is the type used on the top of UK street lamps. It's big. It's not particularly attractive, but it works! I might just buy a couple of these as shown in your video to have as spares. Excellent tuition video, thanks.

Hi Clive, I've been using a 12v version for several years to control our solar powered led illuminated street address sign. Was very interesting seeing what's inside and how it works!

The old bench had "character". New mat is nice but please bring back the old bench top!

Hi, Clive. Many many years ago I had to make a very simple temperature controller with the parts I had available. It was to keep home photographic chemicals at constant temp. I cobbled up a circuit not unlike this one, thermistor instead of LDR. It worked so well we were still using it 3 years later when we changed to different process. Tom...

Better background, except the two bright light spots - even zooming in washes out the top of the screen. Oh, and you're missing the "BIGCLIVEDOTCOM" - just in case I forget who I'm watching!! If the capacitor can be bridged, then I think I am completely misunderstanding the point of the capacitors - or perhaps zeners. Is there any chance you could elaborate?

That was really neat. It was quite similar to the ones we install for lighting controls in the field.

I much enjoy the Matt in the video. I feel it makes it easier to follow the item in better focus to the eye. 👌

I made the dusk switch based on your schematic.works very well.thank you.

I first used 555 timers to time my ham repeater builds in the later 70’s. To get stable repeatable timing, tantalum capacitors were used. Teaming these up with cmos gates it did a basic but pretty good job. The 556 is the dual device, with two timers. I have A 555 cook book there are all types of circuits, blinkers, oscillators. It is a very versatile device.

Dear Sir, Good day. I am a mechanical Engineer but interested in electronics . Your video had helped me to repair an exactly same dusk switch from China. Thanks and best regards, George A P(India).

Clive, back to the pressboard benchtop, please. The grey is unpleasant and the glare is yuck.

When I was MUCH younger, we always called the mains quick connector A MOUSE TRAP. Very common in factory's in UK..

Well, that specific 555 timer is intended for the *Chinese* versions of fingerprint and iris bio readers. in which it's the only component and just unlocks them 3 seconds after you press the button.

love your videos, I breadboard a lot of your circuit breakdowns ... 'tis awesome

I like the battle scars on your bench surface. We can only hope for more.

I have been using a 12V version of this for some time to run a short piece of waterproof LED tape in the porch. I expected water ingress issues (as I did literally just screw it into the porch trim) but so far its been working fine. I did wrap some amalgamating tape around the screw holes and where the wires go in, in the hope it reduces the chances of water blowing in. The water has only been an issue in the junction box as I foolishly didn't drill a drain hole in it. Really the only issue I have is the lights come on when its not yet dark enough to get any benefit, so I was quite excited to see this video to confirm where I need to be looking to fix that.

I'd prefer the old one. Less shiny, less crowded.

4:32 - "...secretly you're hoping it _does_ go bang." Me: _sheepishly looks away from monitor whistling innocently_ :)

I like the cutting mat... it givers you a sense of scale

I love the new mat! I like the fancy new setup :)

Nice to see another fan of the 555 timing chip. I last used one to build a metronome.

I like the new background of the cutting mat.

I was kind of excited to see the 555 timer show up in a video. Was my first IC I played with when learning electronics and have always been curious as to how many current engineers grew up playing with 555s. Still have my original timer cookbook before the days of the internet. I would have to admit, was sadly disappointed seeing the comments were dominated about the bench. Was hoping to read some good timer flashback stories. Oh well...my two cents. It's human nature to hate change when ones in their comfort zone. So the majority will want to keep the density fiberboard. I'll vote for that too.

I prefer your old bench, mainly due to the reflection from you lamps. I just started making a few KZfaq videos it's more of a video diary really. Anyway it's much harder in really life than I thought it would be. Always enjoy your stuff. Interesting comments about LEDs and snubber, I have had a lot problems with ghosting on early LED installations, I double cut now. Regards Chris

I have a Twist Lock Photocell that powers a 400w Metal Halide Streetlight. Had it for 5 Years now. Never failed me. its still Outside today, powering that very same Streetlight. the streetlight itself is 15 Years Old. Lamp needs replacement, still works, but the lamp now has a very strong Green tint.

The camera focus on your new cutting surface is fantastic. :D

Thanks Clive, for another excellent video with good info...and the unit under test was actually a pretty decent little device! I was semi-impressed with the size of the relay after you opened the unit...it probably is actually good for 10A load!...and was rather surprised (like you) to see a 555 timer chip...before you reverse engineered the circuit, I thought that might somehow be used for the delay, but the circuit design is actually brilliant...it uses not the timer function of the 555, but the threshold sensor and output switches of the cheap chip! I too would add a snubber diode to protect the chip's output transistor. As far as the applications of Fingerprint, Biometrics, RFID...those are just "new", and more current and stylish circuits being designed...I too can't immediately imagine where a stand-alone timer could be used in applications which undoubtedly have processors, which have all the internal timer functions one would ever need, but that's the beauty of the manufacturer putting that into the chip data sheet...they don't have to figure out how to work it in...they leave it up to designers to rack their brain to figure out how they could possibly design a 555 into those applications...sort of like the manufacturer of a bicycle telling NASA there's an application for it on the space shuttle...actually a rather brilliant marketing strategy! New table mat looks good but I agree with others, its too busy, it hijacks camera focus, and lacks the well-earned character and patina of the old MDF, not to mention the official BigClive ID. I think you should have a marker on each blemish/burn-mark, which links to the video in which it was created...you could call it: Big Clive's table-top archeology. Cheers from Connecticut!

I was using a dmx dimmer and there was a snubber network on the outputs, which caused the led christmas lights to glow. Plugging in an incandescent night light of 7w fixed that, painted the bulb black to kill it's output.. worked a treat!

Love the new work bench.

Old bench is traditional. Also this one seems to be causing autofocus issues? (this mat is basically a big version of that AF cheatsheet you had...)

Good presentation,thank you. Amazing least to say of many fans think that bench cover is so vital And not one single comment regarding Electronics!!!!. May be one or two!!!!!. Guys this is not a movie it is Lab Test.

I am still glad what you do we all get something from it from your sacrfice.

I like the new bench look.

The scorched and stained desktop has character, no glare, and is the BC trademark. Much better for video than the New Improved Model (R). // Good old 555's; those claims on the data sheet are quite believable, because those chips used to turn up in the most unlikely of circuits. I've even seen one being used as a local oscillator in a home-made radio receiver. Tough little beasties, too.

I remember doing systems and control technology in school in the early 90's and the 555 timer chip was the very first chip IC we learnt about in detail. We used it to flash a strobe and sound a buzzer in an alarm circuit. We did loads of work on logic gates like the 7404 and 7408 to but i rarely see them in anything I open up.

I have the 12v version of this for backup lighting during power outages; it works quite well. Old bench!

the beat up bench just has more character. good video regardless

I bought one of these from eBay/China but the 12v version. I use it to turn on/off my LED down-lighters on my garden room. The sensor it on the inside, facing out of one of the windows. Had it for a few years now, works perfect!

Great vids ! It would be interesting to know if the 220 unit worked reliably on 110.

I love the new backdrop Clive it's cool

I was giving this a good, hard think. On the one hand, if you can fix the lighting with some diffusing film the cutting mat background is alright. It's clean and simple, and auto-focus takes well to it. On the other hand, the bench... it has a story. The markings on it are all from different misadventures and represent everything you've done so we didn't have to. So it's a matter of being modern and looking like every other smart KZfaqr or going with your own "Aesthetic:, no matter how it looks.

These "dusk switches" work great on 12 volts. [solar powered barn and garden lights]

I want the old bench! Love all the old scars. Its a tell that it is put to good use.

The old bench brings back old memories with the scars it had.

Well, I'm just going to have to make one of these! I have a pack of the 555 timers I bought a little while back. So you said that by removing the smoothing capacitor, the circuit will run on 12 volts??

Needs a Big Clive sticker on it!

Great channel! I love these videos!

I love the new matt helps with scaling.

Hi, thanks for the video and the nice schematic you made, I am wondering if you have measure the current passing through the circuit.

Aw I quite liked the old bench. Although the pink cutting mat does make me very happy

I just received a pack of 555s from eBay for some breadboard projects - £0.76 for a pack of 20. The are great wee chips and so easy to use. Oh, and I prefer the old bench. Each burn and scorch mark tells its own story.

I'm also deeply in love with the WAGO connectors. But I find the newer series way better (the thinner ones with bigger levers). Have you had a chance to try them?

The new mat is too busy.

Love the new look of the mat on your bench. Could you try and add a defused to your lights to stop most of the glare?

Wouldn't the time delay be shortened if the ldr was in a dark room but not enough to trigger the 555. This would charge up the capacitor leaving little more voltage to charge up to to trigger the 555? Does the 555 somehow make sure the delay is always constant and is not triggered by a certain voltage?

I like the grey mat. Gives you a sense of scale to the objects displayed. If only the lines would be paralel to the frame.

Got one of these 3 years ago for $1.99 sod knows what it was in Sterling. Out of sheer bloody minded curiosity I put it outside mounted to an IP65 box in which I stuck the connections using wago clips and it controls a 30W LED Flood. Mounted BLUE end UP.. Still reliably running today ! Laughably it has outlasted 2 propper photocells running the same type of light ? You can get 12 and 24V versions.

for the 555 ...setting the timing for the bio sensor as active, being active and turning off/cycling? so the rest of the circuit knows when the "read" is complete and can process the read data...maybe?

Bought a couple of 12V versions couple of years back, came with wiring details + easy to Google, the 100K was a POT to adjust light on/off level. The white (clear) box goes upwards just put the wires into a terminal block in a small weather proof box with plenty of sealant.

I like the old bench, with the love marks!

I like this surface too. Contrasty, tidy- kind of brings a fresh look to the table?

I need one to run my deck lights,good idea.!

The "applications" for the 555, I think they might be used for the "dead time" between reads.

I love the new bench look myself. It looks professional.

funny story, I was picking up a cliff unit to use for mains stuff based on the videos you make, the amazon listing in the us has two reviews giving props to Big Clive. pretty cool stuff sir. needless to say it was 20usd cheaper on ebay. And the 555, when I think about it, its a hysteresis device to me. so much to say, never knowing when to say it. cheers.

I have a 12VDC version of this that has been switching my 12V LED lamp post in the garden for over 3 years now. It's never missed abeat. Got in munted in the window of the shed due to the flying leads.

Sorry Clive, bring back the MDF. Not sure on the cutting mat.

Hi Clive! Thx for the review. Couldn't you just put a trimmer resistor in series with the LDR to acheive the possibility to adjust the level of light that triggers the relais? In which range would the trimmer resistor be and would there be enough space to somehow fit it in?

well glad to hear you hadn't burnt to a cinder, love the grey matt apparently blood shows up best on a grey back ground so the movie special effects people say !

our old guitar tech used to hit these mats with several layers of a flat clear spray paint, since his work place was usually bright. helped him not get those visual anomalies after staring into a bright light. Maybe that will be more friendly to the camera too.

Hello, I am using this switch. Put a potentiometer between the photoresistor but changing sensitivity is minor. Is it better to put in in serie with 100k resistor above the photoresistor in stead? Should I go higher than the 100K total to switch at less light or lower? It's hanging on a dark spot and switches a little to early now. Also goes on with dark cloudy weather. Thank you. Greetings Dennis.

Bought a 12volt one of these for my garden lights, as usually had to fix it before it would work.

That almost sounded like I was shouting,... sorry. I'm used to talking to the woman that God gave me. LOVE your channel!!!

Clive, could you explain why LDRs work next video you get a chance? What material is used to produce a conductive photo-sensitivity? I honestly can't find an article that even attempts a useful explanation.

The new mat is nice.

I like the new mat my only problem with it is that it brings out my OCD and i want everything you do lined up with the background aargh..cheers for the videos.

I use 2 of those to control the lightning in my garden, each one control 2x 220v Lamp, and 1 control an COB Led 220V at the porch too. They are very interesting. I know not the best engineering, but they do the job!! As Clive mentioned they are not instently, about 5-10 sec, but I dont mind that. I need them to turn ON light at night, and Off during day and they do that pretty well 😉

Used a 240 volt one on a 30w LED for 5 years still working well, Having said that, now it will probably fail.. BUT - The 12v ac and 24v ac ones are the same with a couple of different supply components. Amazingly reliable for a cheap piece of tech from china

I use thse Wago connectors for connecting lamps to the wires coming out of the ceiling (if the lamp doesn't come with a terminal block); also for connecting the heated build platform of my 3D printer to an ATX PSU. They happily take 6A and more.

hi clive loving your vids but here is a question what camera and how do you set up your over head shots they always look clear and sharp maybe you could do a video showing your set up ...keep up the great work Andy

Nice dusk switch, I like how easy it must be to convert it for using it with 12VDC only. If you don't trust it on mains voltage or want to play around with it safely, you can always put it on the secondary side of a low voltage power source for e.g. led lights. just (remove and) bridge the X2 capacitor. Optionally you can remove the bridge rectifier, too, but it take away the "universal" polarity power input "feature". Now that I have read the video's description, I read that you can buy the 12VDC version as well. I wonder what the difference is...

Question: could the 555 be used in biometrics/rfid to possibly change the polling rate of the sensors?