My over engineered self lusts for 4X and a much larger box for hand access! ABB boxes are thicker but the ones we used had removable knockout plates with cork gaskets.

@@Bob-cx4ze I have a hydraulic punch from Temco, and I agree, it was worth every penny!!

steve myers apparently this box viewed was made in Mexico...part of the nafta trade agreement.

They make lube 🤣 No really you can buy conduit lube for wire pulling, looks like a bucket of what you’d expect an elephant to produce. But try running Russian certified, GOST not UL, cables from a telephone booth sized motor starter 40ft down a skid without it. It was a vapor recovery skid for petrochemicals.

Exactly. I always run my wires through the conduit first. A hell of alit easier. Especially if your running more than 50 feet.

It fell down into the right PV bushing and I had to dig it out. That would have sucked it it would have fallen down the conduit... LOL

You are so right!

Better yet install a piece of rigid conduit with a T box and at least a filter drain to keep out the critters. When I worked the petrochemical industry we couldn’t allow pooling, because it might be explosive so no flex except for the last 18” and a T and a drain on every low point. The box needs a drain too since condensation will fill to the level of your bushing.

The deals seem to find me these days...

Yeah deal is gone unfortunately :(

not a suggestion, it a MUST!

Yes

SAME. I was using needle nose then soldered, but sometimes it wouldn't fit in the connector due to solder - also resulting in butt loads of bad words. I wish I knew better back then.

@@LithiumSolar Yep, the right tool makes life a bunch smoother.

I do not have a master disconnect at the panels. I have a main disconnect (PV-rated circuit breaker) at the other end of the wire run.

@@LithiumSolar ok I'll look at that option also

They are not, nor do they claim to be, Staubli-brand.

It is 3/4 LFMC conduit. If you're unsure what size to use for your application, this is a good calculator www.southwire.com/calculator-conduit NEC states max of 40% fill for 3+ conductors :)

@@LithiumSolar thank you so much

I think that guy is price-gouging lol. As for the lighting arrestor comment - I'm interested, but don't know much about them. Is there one you would recommend? And would that be mounted in the combiner box or near the charge controller?

Yes. I use MIDNITE SOLAR SURGE PROTECTION DEVICE 300VDC AND 120/240 VAC (example pic - www.altestore.com/store/enclosures-electrical-safety/lightning-protection/midnite-solar-surge-protection-device-300vdc-and-120240-vac-p9042/ ) They have a 3/4? pipe thread base - like a conduit connection. Make a hole in the combiner box and wire to the + and - (combined) wiring and grnd. The example above is outdoor quality - I believe its preferred at the combiner box (near the lightning strike) to block a surge going down the wiring into your other stuff. I learned that this protects both the + and - wiring because lightning could go down either wire as lightning doesn't care about current flow direction :)

No, the fuse is not making contact on either end at the point of insertion. That would be extremely dangerous if it were.

I'm curious if you've seen this happen before? I've heard a lot of people mention condensation in conduit and I've yet to see it happen in any of my conduits (I have a lot of them). I'm not saying it's impossible, just... seems odd. Unless it's something that occurs over like 20 years or so?

@@LithiumSolar disaster is around 24/7 no matter what! Best way to avoid condensation is to check every now and then and dry up any signs of moisture. You will be surprised the kind of things I have found inside those boxes, spiders, all kinds of insect's, moisture, and rust. Even if they are new and built with the best materials I always do a routine maintenance on those boxes. Excellent set up, keep up with the good work! Kind regards from BC.

Not yet. I have a 5th string to connect and a ground wire yet, which will leave me with one unused hole. I'll just stick a small piece of PV cable in to plug it.

No. The combiner box takes the place of the Y adapters. I don't like the Y adapters personally. It's very easy to accidentally overload the connectors or wires.

Absolutely not! It may sound like a good idea, but you're creating a weak point on the wire that's subject to breaking if/when it flexes. Additionally, you're filling the terminal with a metal that softens and melts at a very low temperature (ie if the connection starts to heat up for whatever reason). A proper crimp is superior to solder in this application.

@@LithiumSolar thanks for that valuable tip.

The controllers I'm using require a minimum voltage of 60Vmp to run. Most MPPT controllers will have a minimum voltage exceeding that of a single panel.

I always reference the NEC code, section 310.16 as a starting point. There is more that goes in to it beyond this though, such as length of wire, bundling, etc. You can find the table on Google fairly easily.

Nope. This was connected to an isolated controller so I never had it grounded. It's since been replaced and grounded properly now. I would suggest following all electrical codes/requirements for your area!

I do have an 8ft ground rod already pounded in. I guess I'm just not sure what gauge wire and proper clamps to use. You mentioned max 5 ohms, are you measuring that between the solar panel frame and the grounding rod?

Yea, I am working on my install and bought a grounding rod, not sure where to measure the resistance

@@BobHannent anywhere along the ground works the same. 5 ohms or less is a pass for any electrician. 0 is the best. I am a CM.

@@BobHannent code says 8' rod but 6' works what doesn't work it hitting a rock 3' down then cutting it off so it looks like 8' lol

@@BobHannent i have built 100's of telecom cell sites rooftop and dirt(greenfield). .

I have a 2-pole circuit breaker at the charge controller. Whether or not this box is ok (with a positive-only fuse) will depend on your local codes.

I would have done it that way if I were pulling rather than pushing it through. I figured it would have been too thick and stiff to get around the 90 bends, but maybe not.

The conduit is bonded to the metal case. The lock ring that is screwed down on the conduit fitting has teeth that bite in to the box metal (through the paint). They do make some rings that also have a ground wire terminal on them - up to your local codes if that's required.

30A

I have 15 panels. My charge controller (like most off-grid controllers) is limited to 150Voc input. Because of this, I can only wire 3 of the panels in series before I risk exceeding 150Voc. So I have 5 strings I need to combine.

@@LithiumSolar Ahhh, I misunderstood. That would do it then. Most of the UL listed Hybrid converters I see go up into the 480 -580v range. But yes, 150v would limit you. Thanks for the quick response!

​@@rustusandroid My system is 100% off-grid. A hybrid system is still technically grid-tie and requires piles of permits, contracts, and approvals :)

@@LithiumSolar True that. Maybe I should watch more of your videos before I start running my mouth :)

Typically they're installed at the solar panels, then one set of conductors run back to the inverter. However, please make sure to check and follow your local codes/requirements.

Daves Tech no top penetrations on outdoor NEMA 4 enclosures

Yes, the bar could have been turned around. It's just held in by a pair of phillips screws. I suppose that would have made it easier, hadn't thought of that.

And yes, no top penetrations. I don't even like side connections (have one on another unrelated box).

@@davestech6357 Top connections are risky for being water proof. If you have even the smallest leak then in top connections water will drip inside, while in bottom its unlikely.

That sounds more difficult to me. You're welcome to do yours how you see fit 🙂

You should ground it in accordance with the code requirements in your area.

@@LithiumSolar right but I was still curious what gauge ground wire you used and if you installed a ground rod and wire to the combiner as well

6 from panels to combiner, 10 from combiner back to shed.

@@LithiumSolar gotcha, thanks

I'm not familiar with the requirements of wind power.

The fuse doesn't make contact on either end until you close the fuse holder.

The crimp tool kit includes 2 of the MC4 connect/disconnect tools watts247.com/product/mc4-solar-crimping-tool-kit-crimper-for-2-5-6-0mm2-solar-panel-pv-connectors-cable/?wpam_id=97

@@LithiumSolar okay, I saw that but the tool you were talking about to replace the needle nose pliers I didn't see. Is that the same thing as what is in the spine of that kit?

@@awesomedee5421 Yes, it's the same thing. In reference to the tool shown in the spine of the kit, the round part is for tightening the nut down where the wire goes in to the connector when splicing new connectors on. The two points on the other end are the disconnect tool. They will go over the MC4 and press the two tabs in for removal.

Yes. I can feel 48V and it stings. I don't want to know what 90V feels like...

Vdc is even worst

Generally anything 50 volts or higher is considered to be capable of killing you.

I'm not going to go through and collect this information. I'm not sure what you're looking for, but the label on the inside of the box lists out the specifications for the enclosure.

@@LithiumSolar I wasn't referring to the enclosure...and by me listing the info I requested, and you not being "sure" as to what I'm looking for tells me that you have 1) no idea what you're doing, 2) no business guiding other people...

@@wipatriot510 This video is nearly 4 years old. How do you expect me to spout off those numbers and calculations nearly 4 years later? I'm not going to run around like a puppy and gather this because some random commenter asks. Additionally, this box isn't even installed anymore. You should be following your local codes, requirements, and regulations, not relying on a KZfaq video.

@@LithiumSolar It's BASIC information...and if you're not here to make reliable content, then you shouldn't be on youtube at all...

Both red and black are 6 Awg.

@@LithiumSolar thanks for the reply

@@LithiumSolar size of the green wire? Thanks

They are exterior decking screws :)

@@LithiumSolar Yeah, not really the best choice. The bugle head is wrong for this application. Just saying. Otherwise, great job.

@@alext8828 Thanks. I'm not overly-familiar with hardware like this. I use deck screws pretty much everywhere. Is there a specific kind you would recommend?

@@LithiumSolar A wood screw with a flat bottom to press down with its entire surface rather than a bugle head that tries to displace material as it goes in. Excellent job.

@@LithiumSolar Your local big box store will have hex washer head "sheet metal" screws in stainless steel to size 14 (1/4") in various lengths. "Lag screws" in still larger diameters.