Correct... once you clear the pickup tube and nozzle, carefully leave the can upside down and store it that way. The idea is that the pickup tube is not in contact with the contents of the can anymore therefore cannot become clogged. It'll stay that way indefinitely too. The original plastic cap from the spray can often is an excellent base for storage but if it isn't, constructing a rack using duct tape or a glue gun and cardboard from boxes is a dirt cheap way to make a rack. If you store your cans in a fire cabinet, you'll need to make a rack out of non-flammable material, if you're going to follow the usual standards. Interestingly, when I was in college in the engineering program, several students made a rack that fit into a fire safety cabinet shelf as a project. They made it from expended metal spray cans and got props for the effort to recycle. Even all those decades ago, recycling and environmental concerns were a part of what we were taught. So how did it work? They cut off the bottom & top of the cans and sliced the body lengthwise down the cylinder. The metal rectangles were folded into the parts that comprised the body of the racks which were predestined to fit into the cabinet. They used a small benchtop sheetmetal brake to do the bending. You can think of it looking a bit like an erector set without most of the holes. Anyway, while I wasn't in that group of students or even in the program in the afternoon (I was in the morning half of the program), I got to examine the blueprints, spare parts and the finished product. Every group had their project on display which could essentially make you look good... or not so much. As far as I'm concerned, they did an excellent job, produced a professional looking product and it was far stronger than anyone thought it was going to be while using almost next to nothing in additional materials. IIRC, they put a total of 200 pounds of dead weight on a rack section just to test it out and it held up like a champ. Overkill? Yes. Impressive? Also yes considering none of them had any real practical experience designing or building anything prior to that according to what we were told. Of course common sense tells me that's why they ended up going overboard with their design... practical experience is worth a lot. They just didn't have any yet! The moral of the story is that you can do a lot with common items that most people throw in the trash... and you can do it for little to no money which is usually important when you're a poor, starving college student. Best wishes! ♻️🤔👍🏻 - Max Giganteum

Prevention is the best cure! Best wishes! 🤔👍🏻👨🏻‍🔧 - Max Giganteum

To declog you've got to force air into the valve to push out the clog and then soak can in hot tap water periodically shaking thoroughly to ideally break up and dissolve the clog so that it cannot re enter the valve ..

Thank you. Maybe I got a tiny bit carried away. I like giving credit where credit is due.

Thank you Lance. There will be many more to come. Subscribe and you'll be notified.

Hi Craig, I just subscribed - Happy New Year, Ciao, L

Thanks. It was fun researching and making.

an old trick, it only helps a little, they will still clog

Hey Hampton. Yeah this was my first. Thanks for watching.

Great!

You're welcome Eloy. Thank you for watching and commenting. Stay tuned. There will be many more to come.

Thanks. That was my first video. It annoyed some people. I doubt I’ll do it again. I like stuff like that but recognize that most do not. My future vids will stay on task. Thanks for watching and appreciating my e presiding. Keep checking back for new videos.

Craig Shotwell I think you should keep the history stuff but provide a timestamp in the description that people can click on to skip it. Best of both worlds. Like I said, I was really really glad I watched the history section. I feel like I actually learned something.

Thank you Frank. I love history and feel it’s important to give credit where credit is due. Please check back for future vids

Yup! Thank you for watching.

Ha! You're funny. Stay tuned I will be posting more epic productions !!!

Thank you again. I tend to get carried away sometimes with details and history. I've backed off a lot on that but I'm glad you appreciate this vid. Check back for more soon.

Lol! Thanks dude. It was my first vid. Went a little overboard. I love to research. I know, I’m a geek. At least it keeps me out of trouble.

So being a "geek" is awesome hahah. I'm actually starting painting with can and with that info i can deal with a lot of problems, even in art you have to deal with a lot of science hahah

thanks

Thank you. But as I stated in the video, the clog occurs below the nozzle.

You're welcome! Please subscribe if you haven't already. Share with your friends and family.

Thanks for watching. Let me know how it works for you. Keep checking back for more videos. Subscribe if you have t already.

Rustoleum I think is very good paint once you get it out of the can, but it is just terrible when it comes to clogging up inside.

You can always open the can, pour out the paint and use an alternative spray mechanism. Right? Yes. 🤔👍🏻🇺🇲 - Max Giganteum

@@AlienArteStoreMX How would I open a can? Somewhat carefully. Dangerous? Nonsense. All you need to do is bleed off the pressure still in the can then open it enough to pour out the contents. How to bleed off any remaining pressure? You can drill a hole into the top of the can near the seam where the top is crimped together with the cylinder. Use a small drill bit... 1/32 inch is good. That's .0312 in size for those that don't know - a #68 drill bit is almost the same size. When you do this, wear safety glasses (of course!!) and be ready for a tiny bit of spatter to possibly come out of the can. Won't the can burst open? No. A modern spray can is actually fairly tough. I've drilled small holes all over spray cans for paint, cleaners & lubes for decades and I've yet to have one burst or split. In fact, I stopped drilling holes and started dinging the cans LIGHTLY on the side of the can with a hand tool like a Crescent wrench to open up a pinhole in it. The pressure will slowly bleed off in a minute or two and voilà! You can open up the puncture point with a purpose-built center punch or a beater screwdriver to pour out the contents. How much PSI does a can have when new? Anywhere from 90 to 120 PSI is typical although the cans are manufactured to hold at least 150 PSI the last time I checked. Many won't fail until they hit well over 250 PSI if that tells you anything. What's the bottom line here? If you're prepared, you can safely open what is known as an aerosol can in order to save the contents if you cannot use air pressure and/or heat to clear a clog or if you cannot add additional air pressure through the stem. Two things: 1. I mentioned that it's important to be prepared. Wear safety glasses and clothing that can get slimed with paint. Remember to position the can so that you don't put a small hole in the can and allow the remaining pressure to push the remaining paint out in a spray. I've witnessed that one to great amusement. That's one of the reasons I say to drill a hole in the TOP of a can... do it while the can is setting on its bottom. You cannot get sprayed in the face if you do it that way even with a full can. 2. Make sure you're ready to use the paint! It'll dry in no time in an open container so the smart play is to have a brush at the ready or some other way to spray the paint. Airbrush setups work well as can a regular spray gun but keep in mind how much paint remains in the can by volume. It may not be worth using a regular gun for a little amount of paint. Note that an empty can should be recycled after you remove the plastic from it and cut the ends off - many recyclers won't take it unless both ends are removed. Check with your recycler for details some may allow you to split it open from end to end then crush it. One use of the cylinder portion of a can is as shim stock. Most non-machinists won't have a use for shim stock but if you do? Strip a can down and convert it for use as shim material. The thickness of any given can will vary slightly so check a few for thickness with a micrometer and save material at your discretion. Reality check: if you're not comfortable with opening up a pressurized container then don't. Dispose of it properly. You assume nor take on any risk. However, if you are willing to give it a go and assume a little risk then make a plan, prepare and go for it. You can save yourself a lot of money that way. In my past, I've saved the company I was working for a ton of cash by saving cans of paints, cleaners, lubricants and even adhesives. You can do the same at home... especially if the neighbors donate all their messed up or old aerosol cans to you. Free is a very good price! Best wishes!! - Max Giganteum

You're welcome. Keep watching. More to come.

Thanks. Good to hear. Love the feed back.

Thanks Rex!!! I really appreciate the compliment!

Thanks Anthony. Keep the feed back coming.

Lacquer thinner will clean it out quick IF that is the problem 357

You are welcome. It was my pleasure. There will be more videos.

Thanks so much William. I really appreciate that! Please subscribe if you haven’t already. Keep checking back for more videos.

+Susan Miller Yeah. I've learned to pare the videos down for You Tube. Sorry about the lost paint. Like i said in the video; this technique will not work on that type of can and the clog occurs down inside the dip tube as well as the nozzle.

Well I have had different experiences. If I do this trick they do not clog. They can also clog below the tip and in the tube, so saving the tip does nothing...

I have never had one clog in the tube, only in the nozzle. So if you do as they say, no problems.

S o you are saying that we have to boil the spray can in water. Please help me i am i a hurry to unclog my spray can because i am working on a project .please help me .

You can buy new nozzles for that. Or just do as I have suggested and keep your money in your pocket. I know you were kidding about the question of boiling the can. ;-)

No the problem is not of nozzle its in the pipe inside the can. please guide me what to do

hmm

It isn't boiling... this a complete misuse of the word. What's really occurring is expansion. Liquid to gaseous state. Heat or cold is an irrelevancy - the purpose of the propellant is to push the paint out of the can. Yes, heat or cold can influence how paint flows from a nozzle and with separation, adhesion, drying time, etc-etc-etc but the primary purpose remains the same. If you really want to do yourself a favor, make sure the average temperature of the can, what you're going to paint and the environment you're painting in is around 70-75° F. Prep your surface! Properly shake the contents. Take your time painting. Use long even strokes at the correct angle and distance with proper overlap at a healthy rate of application and you'll be successful nor will you have to worry about what's going on inside the can. Just give it a good 2-3 second shake about every 15-20 seconds. Allow the paint to flash between coats. Develop and retain good habits... you'll be a pro in no time. Best wishes! 👍🏻👨🏻‍🏭🇺🇲 - Max Giganteum

@@MaxGiganteum Let’s ignore the definition of the term “boil”. It doesn’t really matter here. I was probably creating a distraction. My fault. My point was that rattlecan paint quickly drops in temperature which can cause problems in humid environments. The paint comes out cold. It will condense water in the atmosphere and give a poor paint job. I lived in San Francisco and the Pacific Northwest where the damp is a huge pain in the ass. Recognizing this and mitigating temperature and humidity gives better results. As for the physical chem involved with Boyle’s law and the adiabatic process that explains the refrigerant effect of aerosol propelled paint, I don’t think understanding this matters. The point is that rattlecan paint starts to get very cold. Cold paint is bad in damp environments. Painting in damp environments is not ideal, but it’s difficult to argue with the climate in Washington.

@@NoahSpurrier I get you on the damp and/or wet thing... I spent 30 years in SW Washington. My solution was to never paint anything in the Winter. Or the Spring. Or the Fall. (ROFL!) Kidding aside, I did find a high level of success by pre-warming everything and being in an extra dry environment. I could paint year round in the shop with the wood stove cranking out tons of heat if necessary. Slowing down the process does help - I mean thinner coats with more coats for coverage with extra stoppage time between coats. It takes patience but I would combine painting with other tasks so it was easy to just set a timer and dust on another thin coat when it went off. Heat soaking the can the entire time works too - just don't let it get too hot! In all reality, the real solution was to avoid spray cans where practical. I used a bona-fide HVLP spray gun thus avoided propellant issues. If paint matching or supply was an issue, I would literally bleed off the propellant from a spray can and transfer that paint into the gun. Sometimes I used an airbrush gun too. Best wishes! - Max Giganteum

Give it a try. I don't use hair spray ;-)

Different input point in the pickup. You should actually be thankful! 🤔👍🏻🇺🇲 - Max Giganteum