Thank you very much! hope your doing well Ron

thanks for watching

@@stanstelmach5326 the material gets thicker at the shrank area. So the material is compressed. If the grains dont move and stack up how would the material get thicker in the areas of shrink?

Thanks but i am far from a master

thanks for watching part 2 coming soon!

Thanks

Thanks for watching

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching

thanks for checking it out, hope to have 2 more on making this part

Coming soon, thanks for watching !

i am always way more sore after doing shaping by hand than working large panels in the hammer

Thanks i appreciate the kind feedback and that you watched the video.

More to come!

Thanks, i appreciate you checking it out

Thank you very much!

Right on

thank you, part 2 coming soon

Thank you

thanks for watching. Yes smaller hammers are more than capable of doing these parts. I have a smaller hammer that i used to make these on. I just use the big hammer on everything now

thanks for watching glad you enjoyed it!

Awesome, thank you! I appreciate the Subscribe

Thanks for the kind words and watching

thanks for watching

Thanks

thanks for watching

thanks for watching , hopefully it was helpful

@@cornfieldcustoms it was!! I was trying to get my head around how to make the radius happen without wrecking the area that need to remain flat. Can’t wait to see part2!!

Thanks

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks for watching, start and stop points are super important and often over looked

Thanks man 👍

Thanks, and thanks for watching

Thanks for watching

Thanks again!

Glad it helped! Thanks for watching

Thanks

Thanks, it changes the way you think about making parts when you dive into shaping

Many many thanks

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching

@@cornfieldcustoms I tried making that piece on my MH19 early this year. I never could get the wavy part to come all the way over and tighten up the piece. After watching your part 1 I am thinking that I didn’t have the hammer blow intensity set right. Ultimately I ended up making the pieces in 2 parts using a round over die (covell tank die) in the bead roller and then welding the center of the radius. They came out OK but not great. After I watch you finish the one that you are making I will try making mine on the hammer again. I never installed the ones I made in the spring. Anyway thanks again for the post. It is much appreciated.

Thanks!

Thanks but i have it under control

My pleasure

Thanks for watchign, That would be cool if you come to a class !

thanks for watching

@@cornfieldcustoms watch nothing!, I want to go live in your shop for a year and learn what you know

Thanks for watching

Thanks for watching

Thanks

thanks for watching.

thanks

Thanks, make sure to check out the rest of the series on it

Thanks for watching

Thanks

Thank you so much 😀

if you were to make this with a mallet and a stump you would have to make it in 2 pieces and weld them together

yes if you were doing this with hand tools or some lighter power tools 2 sections would be the only way to achieve it, unless you spin it and cut out, but that a whole different topic

thank you

Thanks for checking it out

No just standard cold roll

You dont pay attention to the die. You stop the shrink at the line. Not the die or the tuck itself. There is an area just in front of tuck thats kind of a horse shoe shape thats what is stopped at the line. Its the front edge of the shrink

@@cornfieldcustoms Thanks for the explanation

Neither, you stop it at the point where the shrink stops. In the video at the point where i show you the unclosed tuck, it is the front U shape of the tuck. You stop that U at the line

@@cornfieldcustoms thank u for clarification it makes sense to me now

Power hammer. I have a lennox recip machine so i only use the power hammer in hammer mode

@@cornfieldcustoms OK, thanks for responding to questions

Drilling is a form of cutting, drawing is a form of stretching it, riveting is a form of attachment

Upsetting is thickening = shrinking

@@cornfieldcustoms ah yes but you said welding, a differant method of attachment, and of course the operations I mentioed have more to do with bar stock or slug metal not thin plate or sheet metal, but I guess you do thick stuff too bending frame and tube and its crazy how well it works without even kinking the metal heh, I guess I am trying to be a wiseguy thats a big hammer, how much force does it hit with at max pressure per blow, I am more familier with forging type power hammers or presses which have the force of the ram or weight of the hammer, not necessarily the blows per minute.

welding and attaching are totally different things. lets say you have 2 pieces of .500 1018 Mild steel. You forge weld them together ( 100 % clean, no cold shuts, or delam, a perfect forge weld) , what do you have? 1 solid billet of 1018 mild steel. you can not go back in and separate the 2 back into their own individual pieces. now take 2 identical pieces of .500 1018 Mild steel, you rivet ( bolt, tape, glue, zip tie) the 2 pieces together, What do you have? 2 pieces of 1018 mild steel rivet ( attached ) together. you can easily knock the rivet out and you are back to the 2 individual pieces you started with. Welding and attaching are different theories and i was not talking about attaching since it doesnt have anything to do with the 5 core principles of modifying a ( singular) piece of metal. it doest matter material shape size or thickness, you want to modify a piece of metal you are shrinking, stretching, cutting, bending, or welding.

@@cornfieldcustoms right but I was playing devils advocate since they weren't mentioned by name, so how much force does the powerhammer hit with at max pressure curious to compare to a forging power hammer.

i rarely shape much in a bag any more personally, when i do it is just faster to block out an area with a mallet than set up one of the hammers

they get warm from shaping, not hot enough to burn you or anything