How smooth is the final finish? It looked a little grainy when you first showed the 'after' effect, however, that could have just been the light. Just wondering if there's enough top coat in the kit to sand it a couple of times and still have enough protection.

Good to know it's holding up & thanks for making this video

How well did this hold up to hot pots and pans being placed around it? How well has it held up to scratches and such as well?

The topcoat is an epoxy finish.... will stand up to normal use.... but a knive will scratch it deep. My guess is hot pans would hurt it

Jordan use ôhhiiu

I appreciate the comments and views.

Have you set a hot pot on this surface since you re-did them?? I would like to know if that might ruin it. Thanks :)

@@truksrok Yeah I would like to know how it takes hot pans as well.

Does this product come in different colors? Does the gravel have a mother of pearl look to it?

(wonders if he'll reply to a 5 yrs old vid) Would you recommend using a roller after applying the granules? I'm thinking it'll reduce excess but not sure if it'll affect the evenness. Good vid tho!

5 years later how is it looking?

Thanks for the update

Thankyou for update...looks good...maybe persuade the wife out of GRANITE!!!! hahaha

Thanks for posting the update, I was curious. I've watched several videos about this project and yours is the best, the additional tips about the sanding and applying black silicone to finish off the project. Great job.

WichitaFixIt a

PaintedWOLF yes I've used it in bathrooms around the sink as well as outdoor countertops that was covered with an overhang and it holds up great!

Thank you I appreciate that, I think? lol

WichitaFixIt NO NO NO not your mistakes ALL of the others who have done it in real time (my daughter and her husband for one and one of my best friends who attempted to redo her daughters counters...

That's good to hear I hope my video help you out,, thanks for the comment

Lol!

Lmao. I bet he also had the white New Balance sneakers on. Having said that, you did an amazing job on the counter top. Great stuff.

😂😂😂 I don't know why, but this had me creased.

😂😂😂😂

😆

Probably a stupid question but do you sand after each thin coat or is that not something you sand lol? It looks awesome & glad to hear it holds up very well!

WichitaFixIt Can I use this on my old laminate countertops ?

This system is a little more updated, it didn't have the fumes and the process didn't take nearly as long from start to finish, But the top coat is oil base it did have a smell, The countertops have held up well And I think it was a pretty good purchase overall, Thanks for the comment, Check out some of my other videos at Wichitafixit on youtube

What was the NAME of the TOP COAT you applied? Not all top coats are the same, or last the same, and I'm just curious what the name was.

Alex G ki

Fatmagul espanol

does it come in other colors like a white quartz look with the glitter???

WichitaFixIt ii

Tammy Olson Hey Tammy, if you're HOT, I'll come do your counters. I'm better looking than Steve.

shut your mouth Roger! how dare you steve is way hotter than you and you know it! unless you’re wearing slightly off from age white briefs with blown out elastic like steve you can’t even begin to compare

boobam We'll, I have to admit, I do mess my pants now and then, and sure I'm bald with buck teeth. But, the garbage lady at the refuse department told me I'm a good catch!

Thank you for the video! I am just starting my countertops. I got them almost all sanded but need to remove the sink. It turned out really good!

WichitaFixIt That's great to know. I may look into this. Thanks for posting this video.

It is around $259. and there's a smaller kit for like $159.

Thanks for the update.

Hi can u plz share the meterial used in the video

Mine reacted to the heat of a coffee maker and a hot plate a year after it was put on. Going with stone coat epoxy this time.

@@Xyzzzzzz1234 If you go with epoxy you'll find that you'll need to buy a tiny vial of this special protectant for the surface. I can't recall what the name is but I just remember it was expensive...like 75-90 bucks for 1 oz.

WichitaFixIt n.

WichitaFixIt I have laminate and that "fake wood" in my parents kitchen would this work ?

Juliette Bonita Navarro whatever you put this product on it will stick to, as long as whatever you're putting it on is tight to the surface.

Juliette Bonita Navarro

WichitaFixIt does that spray thing u used to put the stones on come with the kit??? If not where did u get it and how much does it cost???

how long would u say it takes for the smell to get out of the house? We painted with rustoleum 2 days ago and the fumes from the paint are still extremely potent. have Windows open with fans running. just wondering if it takes a couple weeks for the smell to dissipate?

+Katlin Crock someone said a good wwek

+Katlin Crock MONTHS !

+TRICK-OR TREAT took about 2 weeks for the fume smell to be gone. Had to leave the Windows open the whole time. Definitely not a job to do in the winter. seems to dry faster in warmer temperature (above 70-75 degrees). once it was completely dry and set the smell disparated pretty fast. Also, the paint chips pretty easily once fully dried. Had to repaint a few spots because a cup fell on the counter.

Gorguruga I appreciate the comment I hope it helps with any DIY projects you may tackle.

WichitaFixIt you can buy just the top coat. you just have to have a little knowledge of urethane and polyurethane. which you clearly do not

Well, give us some knowledge.

Dion Rowsell that's good to know preciate the info.

WichitaFixIt saw

How long did the odor last ?

Thank you for the comment

Thanks for the comment, they're holding up really well but the shine the starting to fade.

WichitaFixIt Thank you for your response!! Can’t wait to do my counters!

Yep it happened to me had to remove sink for disposal that went bad and faucet and chips come up with the sink. I recommend to people if they have to remove sink score it with a sharp knife blade real good before removing sink with this product. Just sharing lessons learned 😄🙏😎

Now - being 3 years later - does it still look good?

Yup, me too.

UtwoBed, why?

Tiffany Stefanovic ------- If you're looking to do this and don't understand the purpose, I'm going to explain it and how to do it yourself because it is incredibly simple, and I like helping people. I wrote a lot just to cover every possibility, but it is not difficult or labor intensive. -- There will be an unattractive, visible edge between the sink lip and countertop that may crack or chip if you don't lift the sink. If the sink moves even a fraction of an inch it will show, and that possibility is high considering the ever changing moisture in the area. Most sinks are not held down very tightly. If you open the cabinet doors and look upward at the bottom of the sink you'll find the lip is held by clamps set by screws or bolts. They usually aren't difficult to get to or difficult to remove because the sink is already held down by gravity, so the original installer doesn't need a lot of force to hold it still. You may need a long screwdriver or socket extension. YOU PROBABLY WON'T HAVE TO PULL THE ENTIRE SINK. That's the best part of all this. The water lines are usually somewhat forgiving and move also, especially if they are flexible hoses. The drain is also somewhat flexible most of the time. All you need is to raise the sink enough to keep it out of the way and prepare the surface underneath the lip of the sink itself....... That means you can get by with raising it about an inch off the counter. Put some blocks or something in the cabinet or area under the sink and lift the entire thing supporting it by the bottoms of the sink itself, not the water or drain lines. Just let those move with the sink. If you have a hydraulic jack or car jack they really make it easy. It's worth going to your vehicle to get it unless you know someone like me that has several hydraulic jacks. You can raise the sink without having to stay underneath it. Just watch your lines while you raise it slowly. -- If there is a lot of area laterally between the top edge of the counter cutout and the lip of the sink, you might be able to brace it there if necessary. Just don't use something so wide that you defeat the purpose. You may have an area that wants to tilt over onto the countertop and a small wedge at the counter may be necessary. I would avoid that and brace it from underneath if it were mine. I might take a stick or sticks and cut it to size so that one end of the stick supports the bottom lip of the sink and the other end braces at the floor. I would use the sticks or something that serves the purpose only if additional support was needed in an area. If it does tilt, it will usually happen at the back edge where the faucet is located. -- Trust me, this so simple even for a complete novice. If the rare event occurs that the lines can't give a little and move with the sink, which will almost certainly NOT be the case, you will have to disconnect them and pull the sink up from there or completely out if you wish, but try disconnecting the drain above the P-trap first. I'll tell you more about this later, but I always loosen the compression fitting above the P-trap yet never take it completely apart. That's almost always the only disassembly needed. Avoid disassembly of the two water lines, but if it's necessary just take a crescent wrench, open ended wrench, or whatever is appropriate to unthread the lines. They are normally between a 3/8 and 1/2 nut. You only have two water lines to pull and one drain. If you must pull the water lines, turn off the shutoff valves under the sink so you won't have to disconnect the entire water main to the home. They are usually found where the water lines come into and through the floor or back wall. Try to move the sink a little before disconnecting water lines. Even copper lines often move just enough, especially if they come in vertically through the floor, to avoid complete removal, but do not kink them. If they are flexible or braided lines, just trust me, they'll move. Don't disconnect them if they have even a little slack in the line. If you have to reassemble metal lines, get a roll of teflon tape. It's super cheap. Wrap the male thread twice in a clockwise direction. Then rethread and tighten well. If they leak still, just scratch that and go get flexible lines from the hardware store. They are cheap, easier to work with, rarely leak or cause problems, withstand movement, are very easy to install, and don't need teflon tape most of the time because the connections are plastic or have a rubber washer inside that compresses and seals it shut. If you ever have to replace a water line, flexible braided lines and plastic lines almost never leak and they are so, so, so easy to use that a complete novice has no problem. They don't even need to be super tight. Some of them have plastic connections with wings on them to hand tighten because that's sufficient. They are far superior to metal when making a quick connect that doesn't leak. I have replaced copper lines that were such a pain that I got tired of it and resorted to braided lines. I always give them a bit more than hand tightens, but just barely. These are even found at Wal Mart -- You don't need to disassemble the drain at every connection, just the main. There is a U shaped part of the drain called a P-trap. That's usually a good place to disconnect. Disconnect above the P-trap but not at the sink itself. There is a compression fitting between the sink and P- trap. Loosen that. The pipe coming from the sink slides down into that, so when you raise the sink it will likely stay in the drain line and you don't have to pull it all apart. That U shape serves multiple purposes. It catches items, like dropped rings, and prevents them from going completely down the drain. It also holds water that prevents dangerous methane gasses and odors from coming back up and into the home. Often times these are easily removed by someone with strong hands, but if not it can be removed with a large pair of channel locks (commonly mistakenly called pliers), or with other tools. A lot of people leave a large wrench that came with the sink or garbage disposal nearby. By the way, if you have a garbage disposal, they also have a tool most people leave under the sink. If your disposal clogs up, you can take the tool and insert it into the bottom of the disposal and manually turn it back and forth to break the clog loose without ever getting your hands dirty. There is also a circuit breaker on the bottom of the disposal that flips when it binds up. Just get the clog out and push the button (usually red button) on the disposal and you're good to go. -- If you don't want to do all this, the op mentioned lifting the sink before sanding. That's even easier because you can lift one edge at a time. That will assure that the entire area is properly prepped so adhesion doesn't fail near the edge and the sink doesn't take damage or have to be avoided or otherwise worked around tediously. If you have enough depth on the lip of the sink you can run a smooth bead of silicone over the edge between the counter and sink. Most people use clear silicone, but there are other colors that work better in some situations. The silicone will hide the vulnerable edge created and flex, but it can take away from the attractiveness. However, I have seen a clean bead actually help, but that's mostly at inside edges and corners of counter tops or kitchen and bathroom areas that need to be water tight or just don't look good otherwise. Some people put a bead around sinks to prevent water from creeping underneath the lip, but I prefer a clean edge. I may lay a thick bead under the lip before installing the sink and letting the excess squeeze out. Then I clean the excess and call it done.

Wow. Makes sense. Thank you for taking the time to write such a detailed explanation.

I probably would of too. But then again in the end it looks just as good.

WichitaFixIt

Taffy I agree, I had a couple of voids I wanted to see if the product would fill, but normally the sink would be removed, thanks for the comment

Karpens16 😂😂😂😂

That was my mom whenever she cooked a special dinner lol 😘 👩

Oh my ... That was awsome. i am a dad and I do just that. 😂

Hey, are you my daughter?

Good luck I'm sure you'll do fine.

@@wichitafixit the flakes are on.. now we wait 12 hours.

That particular countertop lasted about 8 years, and I've since replaced that with epoxy countertop but my countertop never had peeling or anything of the such it was replaced due to Edge chipping.

I also like the way he made it feel good in the crack.

keith sheridan - maybe not if you are only holding off from a full remodel. I can see myself making this change versus have the tops fully replaced on cabinets I wanted to replace.