That’s what some of the kits look like they come with, I was a little afraid of having the small nut inside the turbo on the plug but I guess most/if not all probably weld the nut to the plate that squishes the rubber.

@@JoshsJettas the one I picked up is just a bolt head that’s flat. Nuts on the outside. Oil galley plug meant to be on the crank case. Doorman part 02601 1 1/4”-1 3/8” just did a fit test works perfect. Gonna put a little thread lock on. Will update after complete. This delete has been nerve racking. Started with the drive belt tensioner and turned in complete ac alternator oil filter housing gasket thermostat housing and complete timing belt and all parts associated with that. Was terrified about the timing but dang they did a good job making sure that you could diy timing.

Yes, not real fun but it’s accessible with some extensions

I believe tune my euro and cascade German might have removed some of the blockers from their listings, I’d check with mec evo here in Canada

Thank you, most kits will use a splice so remove the 2 egr cooler connections and plug them into each other with the splice. Heater core will function as normal.

@@JoshsJettas thank you for the info!

The billet plug and 90? Looks nice, mec evo has quality parts so that’s definitely a route I’d recommend.

The low pressure egr (and cooler) introduce the water into the system, the high pressure just introduces soot. Usually the low pressure get blocked off during a delete as you no longer have the exhaust connection and the high pressure can stay untouched and just shut off in the tune. As far as emissions intact but shutting the egr’s off I’m not sure what they can do, you might have to reach out to the tuner. There’s other options, you could install a blocker plate at the cooler and don’t worry about tuning it’ll throw a p0401 but that’s better then hydrolock. Another option is install a winter front to block the cooling package, it ices up slowly because the intercooler is so cold and moisture is constantly being added and the ice slowly accumulates. Depending on weather (or if you park in a garage) that ice results in a no start or it melts and hydrolock. Last option is drill a very tiny hole in the intercooler or pipe, it’ll make a consistent boost leak but should drain any moisture although I’ve never done it As far as tuning MR Tuning is another option, last time I got a tune and flasher it was $700 Canadian.

​@@JoshsJettas Thank you so much, I greatly appreciate the knowledge :) I think I will go with pipe insulation between the grill slots infront of the intercooler to start and see how this works. Cheap and easy and save me from having to get under the car. Thank you again Josh

Yeah it can just be capped, the tune will shut it off as well so no need to block it off technically

The cooler doesn’t need to be there anymore no, quite easy to remove once the turbos off. You will need to plug the inlet housing into the turbo somehow thoigh

Pull the turbo intake and you can wiggle it out if you bend it a fair bit.

@@JoshsJettas That was a tough pipe to remove!

The crank case ventilation feeds into the turbo intake just ahead of that. Besides the turbo dumping oil there my guess is a bit of oil might be pooling from the ccv and leaking out, especially if it looks like the grommets cock eyed

Ok, thanks. I think I’ll replace the EGR grommet. Is it normal/OK for the CCV to be putting that much oil in the intake? On the same car I’m having issues once in a while where it will seem like it’s Hydro locked. After quite a few tries, it’ll finally start but run very rough and shut off a few times. I feel like it’s fuel Hydro locking. I’ve already checked intercooler and there’s no water in it. Have you run across this before? Any ideas?

@danielgerber8543 yeah mine gets damp there too, the vacuum pump discharges air up there as well so it can add a bit more air that needs to escape and some oil vapour can go along with it. As far as the hydrolock you’d have to be loosing a fair bit of oil. I have had them lock up before and there end up just being a touch of water in there as the engine had already ingested all the water by the time I pulled the charge pipe. I would try either temporarily blocking the low pressure egr or installing a winter front of some sorts to see if you can prevent intercooler icing.

I meant to say leave the EGR pump in place **

@JoshsJettas my bad but I do have one more question too on top of the original one. If I delete the dpf and do a straight pipe from the turbo all the way back am I able to do a Malone active EGR tune so I do not have to remove the EGRs I’ve heard of people doing that as well?

@@eliashill7161 might take a little bit longer but the dynamic idle will help with that. Simplest way is install a blocker on the egr cooler and don’t touch anything else, the tune will take care of it. EGR cant be enabled with the dpf delete, I have a video in the CR TDI playlist that I walk through purchasing and installed the tunezilla/Malone (as well as a discount code).

@@JoshsJettasokay cool thank you for answering back, keep up the great videos

Yes right on the intake where the egr tube is mounted, it should be written out in the tune though

Keeps soot out of the intake, also keeps coolant out of the intake if it leaks

intercooler icing/hydrolock issue stems from the low pressure egr introducing moisture, this was never an issue on earlier tdi's with high pressure only systems. Few options besides a complete delete would be installing a blocker on the low pressure line right at the cooler. The winter front/pool noodle set up could possibly keep the intercooler above freezing so the moisture can slowly be ingested instead of freezing into a block and then hard starting or thawing and hydro locking.

@JoshsJettas that is incredibly helpful. You are the man, thank you and I hope you have a great holiday, cheers!

The earlier engines were cbea but they share the same turbo as well. Instead of being a slip fit into the turbo like mine the pipe is bolted on?

Yes. It looks like a small block off plate with do the trick but I was curious if you were familiar.

My bad. I was looking at this all wrong.

Yeah it’s not going to hurt anything except throw a code

Not at all, as long as the cooler isn’t leaking coolant internally it can just be blocked off with the blocker plate.

With a block low pressure egr is there any worry about the higher combustion temperatures?

@aaron___6014 assuming you got a quality tune there shouldn’t be any issues. You still have the pre-turbo egt sensor, I don’t know for sure but I assume there will be a power cut at a certain temp.

Hello, I only blocked off the egr cooler filter did the dpf delete and tune and its been working great for 1 year. No high temps nor coolant leaks.

Nope not needed, just if you want to clean the engine bay up or have a leaking cooler

Nope, just install blocker plates on the manifold and egr valve. It is a little tricky to wiggle out of there though

@@JoshsJettas thank you very much!

@@JoshsJettas Thanks for all your support, I have an issue after all the tuning I still have EGR related problems on scanner which is not allowing me to pass inspection any thoughts on why? I have all the required software. Thanks

@@user-qu7wc7uk2h What state is your car registered in?

@@user-qu7wc7uk2h is it a code or just not readiness set? Malone sets monitors to not ready so it’ll automatically fail even without it throwing a code. If you require readiness you might need a different tuner

Timing belt tensioner set correctly?

@@JoshsJettas yes, in the window. Thought maybe I was off by a tooth with the sprocket. But it will stabilize at +2.4° then go crazy again

Sorry whats that in regards too?

well I did it today, you CAN get the cooler out without touching the turbo oil lines, but it is a serious PITA. You have to unscrew the 6 screws that hold the 2 parts of the cooler together, seriously not fun but that will allow you to get it out without disturbing the turbo (This was on a 2014 Jetta TDI, so others may be different)

That’s good to know, my only experience is removing the cooler during a turbo failure so I wouldn’t have been much help

@@JoshsJettas I was ready to install my parts over the weekend and didn't have new gaskets for the drain so taking it off wasn't an option in my mind. I just started ripping into it LOL Also my darkside kit came with a straight joiner for the coolant lines, I probably could've made it work by trimming the stock lines because it was heavily kinked, but I opted for a quick run to the parts store for about 3 feet of hose and cut a new line to fit, much cleaner looking and no kinks! Also possibly worth mentioning, the darkside kit comes with a silicon cap with a worm clamp for the turbo EGR cooler hole instead of the plug, I was also worried about the plug failing and ending up in the turbo. The problem is there is a square piece (your thumb is on it at 9:31) that sticks off, you basically have to take a dremel to it and smooth it out for the cap and clamp to seal nicely, but if you do that it's a perfect solution.

@EJB93 I had seen someone post something like that the other day. I think that’s a really good idea (I wasn’t keen on that boat plug). My welded plug seems to be accumulating dust so I think the weld might be sleeping a little bit of oil/blow by out, I’ll have to look into a cap kit to work.

I specifically bought the darkside one because of that, there was only 1 other kit that offered the cap that I could find and the site looked sketchy. Now that I know what I was dealing with, im sure a similar cap can be found fairly cheap elsewhere. That UK shipping price was ridiculous.

If you can get one driven in tight, you don’t want it to fall out or else the turbo gets unfiltered air

How about a freeze plug first, then an expanding plug? That stops the chance of the expanding plug sending a nut or bolt into the impeller in the case of a bolt breaking in the expanding plug. Has anyone measured the inside with a micrometer to know the freeze plug size?

I want to make up a rubber plug that slips inside as well as outside and gets held on with a hose clamp. I don’t think the expanding plugs are oil compatible either.

​@JoshsJettas the expanding plug used on caterpillar engines for the oil fill cap last decades. They degrade slowly but it's just rubber and always wet with oil. They get removed about once a week and still last atleast 15 years . Plus i plan to remove the ccv and just put a road draft tube, shouldn't be oil there anymore.

Does open that area up nicely, and you don’t have to worry about burning your hand on it

Oh no, I dropped a couple parts. Where did they go? Oh I think I found them, I must have dropped them in to these boxes that i just got that say rawtek and darkside. Yes they look like the parts that belong there.

Engine can stay in, just a lot easier to film/show what’s going on with an engine on the floor.

@@JoshsJettas Thanks for the reply. I have another question. If my DPF is giving code P2002 and my EGR is P0104 insufficient flow, does that mean that my EGR filter is clogged with soot and my DPF filter is cracked allowing soot to enter the filter and clog it? If I, in the meantime, while I'm figuring out what downpipe kit to order (Mec Evo's website is not allowing me to open an account and place an order for some reason) would just doing the tune be better for my car in the meantime while I'm waiting for the other parts to arrive and an opportune moment to do the install? I need a way to get to work.

Exactly, I would go on MR Tuning website, order the stage 2 tune and there should be a drop down for a downpipe, mec evo and MR tuning both sell the same flowdirekt downpipe.

@@JoshsJettas That is what I ended up doing. The downpipe installed ok except I had to buy a small adapter from O'Reilly's to get it to fit just right to on the muffler end.

Hey send me an email joshthring21@live.ca

I don’t, Next Generation Volkswagen dismantlers in southern Ontario is my go to