Thanks for the kind words!

It's important to know WHY the rafter or rafters are cracked or sagging. If the answer is that they were just undersized for the job, it may not be a big deal to push up in the middle before sistering up a bigger rafter. You may find that the old rafter is permanently warped, though. What you should also check is whether the rafter is rotted from water leaks, or broken from stress, or the lack of sufficient rafter ties/ceiling joists have caused the walls to spread.

That can be a real pain when new structure is installed over old and I never understood the laziness of not removing unneeded framing. It's possible your cracked rafter is no longer carrying weight, but best to have a pro check it out.

I responded to an earlier post about adhesive. I'm not against the idea, its just that this particular rafter was too twisted and cupped for it to get good holding power. A bottle jack would work fine for jacking up the sistered rafter, although you should be careful not to go too far.

I'm not really certain I follow your description--it's difficult to describe these things without pictures. You seem to be concerned about a lack of collar ties or rafter ties and you have a non-standard framing. I'll see if I can clear this up. The roof framing can be seen as a triangle, with the ceiling joists forming the bottom cord of the triangle. These ceiling joists are also acting as rafter ties if they are installed correctly. They should be attached to both the very end of each rafter and to the top plate of the wall. These rafter ties/ceiling joists are what keep the walls from spreading apart and the peak of the roof from dropping as the rafters slip off the top plate of the wall! So they are important. There are various ways they might be attached to the rafters and the top plate, depending on the era in which they were installed. Collar ties, by contrast, are installed in the upper third of the rafter triangle. Those may be installed not to prevent spread of the walls or rafters at the bottom ends, but to prevent issues from unbalanced loads in very high winds or unequal snow loads. In many cases they are not even needed or required. Now, what you describe with the 1x3s may be an attempt at a crude site-built truss. If you only have 2x6 rafters, the span may be too long for those rafters to hold the weight of the roof. Perhaps they should have used 2x8 or 2x10 rafters. To prevent the undersized 2x6s from bending in the middle, they may have installed 1x3 "helpers" along the side of the rafters to help transfer some of the load to the ceiling joists. Modern trusses are engineered in similar ways, but your framing was probably just a decision by a local carpenter to try and add some strength.

@@enduringcharm So very kind of you to reply, So often I see people ask a question in a comment and then see there is no answer and it was posted a year ago.... So thanks! I think you understand me perfectly - the framing is basically JUST a triangle, with those "helpers" To me it looks like it needs MORE help LoL As you said " the span may be too long for those rafters to hold the weight of the roof." How would you add some strength to the roof? I have to admit the house is 96 years old, so it has held up thus far - maybe I should leave well enough alone. Thanks again

@@verygrateful4712 Probably it is okay, but if you are concerned you can have a local carpenter take a look. Sometimes it's possible to "sister -up" additional rafters or create plywood gussets. It would have to be examined in person to see.

@@enduringcharm Thanks for the education.

It all depends on the house. Some older homes may have extensive trim along the facia or soffit, which is not worth cutting up and then trying to replace. Some framing styles, roof angles or adjoining structure do not leave room to slip in a rafter from below. If there are multiple rafters which are damaged and the roof is actually compromised, then I'll recommend patching until the next re-roofing. At that time, sheathing can be removed and new rafters installed as needed.

Yikes. I'm not sure i follow that whole description, but it certainly doesn't sound good! If you have any doubt about the advice you've received, though, don't hesitate to get a second opinion. I've worked on a lot of houses where I find repairs which only made things worse.

You can do that if you like, but it's really the mechanical fasteners which will provide holding power for the long term. Most glue or adhesive is not meant for structural applications and when subjected to the mechanical stresses and temperature extremes of a rafter in an attic it will eventually fail.

If you have a lot of cracked rafters it may be a sign of something other than just poor lumber originally or bad luck. Perhaps a tree fell on the roof earlier, or a previous roofer stacked bundles of shingles in the same spot and caused the damage. Rather than a roofer, contact a local carpenter who does repairs and/or remodeling. You'll want somebody above the handyman pay scale who has experience. A good carpenter will be able to tell you in a few minutes if you have a serious problem or not.

Actually a third-party structural engineer with no conflict of interest would be your best bet.

Is this a general contractor doing the work, or a roofer? In other words, what is his core expertise? Is there budget pressure which might compel the contractor to take the cheaper/easier way out? In reading your description I think what you mean is that there are cracks in the rafters where they rest on the top plate of the walls? Typically rafters sit on the outside edge of the top plate, and a notch called a "bird's mouth" is cut in the rafter so it rests more fully on the top plate. If the rafters are too narrow, or the birds mouth is too deep it may lead to cracks. Or, if there was significant lumber shrinkage or sloppy nailing or cuts it could also lead to cracks. What's important is that the bottom edge of the rafters rest cleanly on the top plate of the wall and that they are securely fastened there. Back in the day nails alone were used, today we also use metal brackets or other specialized fasteners. I can't tell you from here if you have a problem with sistering or not. What I would suggest is that you have your contractor hold off for a bit. Then you can hire a carpenter (not a handyman or a GC, but a real carpenter who knows framing) to evaluate the situation for you. He should be able to quickly examine the rafters and give you his opinion. With that in hand, I think you'll be in a better position to make your choice. Possibly you may want to have a carpenter fix the framing and a roofer replace the roof shingles.

You mean nails that are sticking down and in your way? You can buy end-cutting pliers if you have strong forearms, or just use a hacksaw, reciprocating saw or multi-tool saw to saw off the ends. I generally use a reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade because you can bend the saw blade flush with the plywood and get a clean cut.

Put a hard hat on!

Cordless O.S.M with a carbide blade, 👍 🔨 🇮🇪

You could use a bottle jack or a scissor jack to help you raise a rafter or a sistered rafter, but there are limitations. First, you are limited by the support underneath the jack. If the jack is sitting in the middle of a joist for the ceiling below you may well find that the joist deflects downward as much as the jack pushes upward! And, you could cause nail pops in the ceiling below or other damage. A jack might be more useful if there happens to be a beam underneath, or if you are jacking from a floor system so that the point load is spread across many joists. That aside, there are also limitations in trying to get a new sistered rafter to line up with an old one. It's likely the new 2x material is a wider dimension than the old, for example. An old dried out 2x8 might measure 7 1/4" and the fresh new one might measure 7 1/2". The old rafter may have a bow in it. There are nails from the roof sticking down in the way and it's difficult to get them cut off flush. The plywood sheathing may droop down in the rafter bays. So, my point is that it isn't that easy to get a new sistered rafter perfectly flush, nor is it structurally important.

There are an awful lot of details I'd have to know in order to give you relevant advice. It sounds like you are in snow country, so the weight of snow can be a big factor. It also sounds like your rafters may have been undersized from the beginning. If I was there I'd measure the length and width of the rafters to see if they are appropriate for the loads. I'd also want to understand what rafter ties or collar ties are installed and how stable the walls are, since rafters can also crack from the stresses of movement there. In general terms, though, if the rafters are undersized and already cracked about all you can do is sister up larger rafters or at least an additional rafter of the same dimension. Given what you describe, it's likely to be worth the effort of sistering up full length rafters, even if you have to cut holes to get them up into the space. Depending on the framing configuration you may be able to come in from the exterior soffits or from a ceiling from the floor below. As far as leaks, the shingles (of any type) should generally be forgiving of some movement. If you have a metal roof that could pose some issues. I'd suggest having a local carpenter take a look if you feel uneasy about the situation. Better safe than sorry.

@@enduringcharm thanks! I I didn't know who to call after the roofer said the roof was good but I needed a new one anyway 🤔and I just wanted some sistering and etc...

I mentioned in some other comments-I think this was just one of the ugly pieces of lumber the original framers used up on the roof rather than sending it back or cutting it shorter. It was probably cracked from the get-go, but got worse over time. The problem you mention is real, however.

There are several ways to remove the nails. Whatever method you use you want to be careful not to disturb the nail head on the other side, because that's what is keeping the shingles in place. One simple method is to use end nippers or diagonal pliers to cut off the nail in place. However, this requires good forearm strength. Another method is to use a multi-tool with a metal cutting blade, in which case you may need to use pliers to hold the pointed end of the nail from vibrating and therefore disturbing the head of the nail. A third method is to use a metal cutting blade in a reciprocating saw, held flush to the plywood. this works even better if you have a saw which allows four-way blade insertion. A forth method is to just grab the shank of the nail with pliers and bend it back and forth until it snaps off from metal fatigue.

So, this is a flat roof with a 30 foot span? Are there some kind of columns or support in the middle? It's hard for me to judge the scope of the problem without seeing it. Typically a carpenter would be your answer, or perhaps and architect if the problem is severe. If people are walking away after seeing it, the issue may be worse than you imagine, or the job may be unprofitable and just a pain. I'd really have to know more to give a better answer.

@@enduringcharm No columns in middle....trusses and rafters hidden under ceiling of flat roof so can't see the issue...maybe can send you a photo of how roof looks from outside...do you have an email address?

Go to enduringcharm.com and you can fill out the form there.

Rotted at the soffit ends or rotted somewhere in the middle from a leaking roof? If the rot is at the ends, it may not even be a big deal. The rafters rest on the top wall plate and if there is plenty of meat there--solid wood at least to the outside of the wall sheathing--then structurally you are okay. It would be a matter of sistering up new rafter ends just to create a new soffit and there isn't that much weight there. However, if the rafters are rotted where they rest on the wall plate or rotted in the middle, that's a problem. All you can do is cut out the rot so it doesn't spread and sister up new rafters. This may or may not be difficult depending on access. Of course, if the whole roof is being replaced there may be rotted sheathing too, and both sheathing and rafters can be replaced at the same time.

For parts of the wall plate itself being rotted, you say to cut out the rot… how does one do this? It’s a vaulted 9.5 pitch roof with 2x6 16’ rafters that sit on the rotted top plate(s) (both are 2x4’s) The length of this wall plate spans across several rafters…

@kenyon If this is a finished space you are talking about, you'll need to remove the wallboard or other finish surfaces to gain access to the framing. The top plates can be replaced in sections, as long as the repair joints break over a stud. It may be necessary to add studs for strength or support. Rafters over the rotted section will need to be temporarily jacked up while the top plates are repaired. If the rafters are also rotted they can just be removed in preparation for replacement. It is also possible to make the repairs from above if the roof is being replaced anyway. That would entail removal of shingles and sheathing, plus it is likely that the finished space below would be damaged in the process. If your vaulted ceiling was insulated with sprayed in high density foam then all that has to be dug out and cleaned up too. Once rot gets into the framing, things get complicated and expensive pretty quickly.

Rafters should NOT be pressure treated. Pressure treated wood is actually inferior structurally because it is made from weaker pine. Framing lumber is generally douglas fir, hemlock or larch, depending on the region. Pressure treated framing will be used on decks where decay from water is likely, and also where there is contact with masonry, since concrete, stone and brick can hold moisture.

After Hurricane IDA, I noticed 1 rafter had a large crack. Later, I inspected a few more rafters and at least 4 more rafters are cracked. When you have several cracked rafters, is putting up a Sister still a reliable repair? Just wondering if replacement would be more appropriate since there are several cracked rafters.

There are a lot of details which would go into that decision. If all the rafters were originally undersized for the application you might find multiple damaged rafters over time. In a situation like that you might be better served by re-framing or altering the framing design. On the other hand, if a bunch of rafters cracked because a heavy tree fell on the roof, then repair might be just fine. If you are uncertain, it's best to find a local experienced carpenter who can put eyes on the situation and give you an assessment.

@@enduringcharm Thanks. I am trying to get a roofer to take a closer look. Only problem is that a roofer is not easy to come by in our area due to the widespread roof damages.

You could use construction adhesive if you like. In this particular example, there was enough twist in the original rafter that adhesive would not have been very effective. You need to be able to get enough surface area together for the adhesive to be effective.

Well, it's tough for me to make a judgement without seeing the problem. In general terms, though, a ridge board is there to line up the rafter ends and keep them in position both during construction and after completion of the roof. It also helps carpenters build a straight ridge-line, since the ridge board aligns the rafters and plywood along the same edge. It's not actually a structural member in the sense of carrying weight. And, once the roof is complete, the plywood sheathing helps hold the rafters in position too. A ridge BEAM, on the other hand, is a different animal. That does carry the weight of the rafters and is a critical structural member. I have a video on that, actually. So, if you really have a ridge board it may not be that big of a deal if it is cracked. As long as the rafters are held in place by the plywood, and as long as the walls on which the rafters rest are kept from spreading by rafter ties/ceiling joists, then there is less concern. You might choose to install some collar ties for the rafters resting on the cracked area, and you could sister up some blocking between rafters along the ridge board. If the rest of the system is installed right, you shouldn't really notice any problem with a cracked ridge board. But, if other parts of the system are failing and that's the reason the ridge board cracked, then you should address those things.

In this case construction adhesive would not have been effective. The original rafter was twisted and cupped enough to leave gaps between the new and old, which would have prevented adhesive from working very well. The cleanliness of the original rafter would also be a factor as far as adhesive. The mechanical connection of those screws is plenty, believe me. All you need to do is add strength at the cracked end and to prevent further deterioration. Remember, the neighboring rafters and the plywood are still sharing part of the load. If both rafters were new and straight--like the cracked one had been framed up in the last year or two-- construction adhesive might add some additional strength.

I'm not sure if it came across on video, but it was apparent that the rafter had been that way almost from day one. I think the framers were using up the ugly lumber toward the end of the job and this rafter was slipped in rather than returned to the lumberyard or cut shorter for another use.

You mean toenailing to the ridge board? You can if you like, but in this case it wasn't critical. The original rafter was still secure there from the original toenailing and the plywood sheathing. The main point was to create a solid span to support the cracked area.

@enduringcharm OK thank you

Prices for repairs will vary widely depending on local labor rates, access to the area and scope of the damage. Your best bet is to ask a local carpenter for an estimate.

@@enduringcharmthanks is $2000 a good estimate for sistering one truss?

As I said, it all depends. That could be too much or just right depending on circumstances. If you are uncertain, try getting additional estimates or asking the carpenter to explain his estimate as far as time, materials, etc. You also mentioned a truss, which is very different than a simple rafter. if you have an engineered truss then a repair must also be engineered and approved, which is an additional expense.

If you have a whole side of cracked rafters, you likely have something else going on too. Perhaps the framing is just undersized for the snow load in your area, perhaps there is previous damage from a tree falling, perhaps the original framing wasn't designed or installed well. You'll want to figure that out before blindly replacing them. If you need half a roof worth of rafters replaced, you'll want to maximize the rafter width you install, and it may be worth reframing the whole roof if you determine there are remaining issues. Have an experienced pro take a look.

@@enduringcharm I was just going to put a 2x4 on each side of the original one. All my Rafters are 2x4x12. I live in a small house. Everything was over done for the framing. They made every wall load bearing. The Header that runs straight through my house is held up by 4x4s all spaced 16” OC. Idk why it was done like this,but I got family that build for a living and they told me that this was over kill and have no clue why they done this. The rafters aren’t messed up at the top I believe just the ends where your Facia board would be is rotten. I myself think I lucked out with this house cause it needs reShingled and have a little work done. But I’ve been up to see the damage and it was minor beside the rotten ends and reDoing a whole room. Even in the basement has Steel beams for the load transfer and 4x4s with flashing on them and the floor. Its definitely overkill.

Obviously I can't say without seeing it in person, but still be wary. No rafters should be 2x4 under any circumstances or any vintage. Modern trusses are made with 2x4s, but that's an engineered system. If you can possibly sneak in 2x6 or 2x8 sisters for those 2x4s, you should do it. Sometimes when parts of a house are over-built it's because the builder wasn't certain of what he or she was doing and compensated. However, I've seen plenty of houses with giant structural members and serious weaknesses in other areas.

@@enduringcharm idk why,but the only problem I seen with the house was the Fact that the Rafters are 2x4. Everything else for the roof was 2x6 or bigger. I thought about getting brackets that I can Nail into the Header and just over do it in a way. Though trying to put 2x6 next to the original ones for a brace sounds like a good idea,but I’ll have to check one day when I get off work. The rafts are spaced 3’ or less than 4’ apart.

Probably not, unless the damage is due to something like a fallen tree on the roof, or storm damage, etc.

Many people confuse stains they see on framing lumber for a current mold problem. When a structure is built, the framing lumber is delivered to the jobsite in piles, and those piles often sit outdoors for periods. The wood will get stained by tannins leaching out, dirt, and, yes, mold. But, once that framing lumber is installed and dried in, the stains and old mold pose no hazard. It's common. What you do need to watch for is current moisture or leaks in the framing lumber, which can promote current mold growth. What you saw in the video are old stains.

Yes, any nails in the way can be nipped off, or sawed off or possibly bent away. Obviously you want to avoid pushing a nail upwards or moving it around too much so you don't get a nail pop and a leak through the shingles above.