That is probably correct on the horns. I just know I refused to buy any, and bodged $2 Amazon horns in there. I spent probably 40 minutes setting up the steering, which would have taken anyone that had the correct bits about 5 minutes.

The manual calls for 24mm for dig and OD but it can be done with others.

That is correct. Take what I still think is the best handling rig "box stock," and crank it up to eleven. The amount of adjustability in the chassis is almost overwhelming.

@@CrawlerCanyon Put the front shocks in the top back hole. I think it's stretching out to far. Just my opine!

They really went all-in on speed with that lil' guy. Also, TIL that AGFRC makes like four versions of the A20-- I've only seen the A20CLS-- the CLS meaning coreless-- but there's a brushless version (BLH, BLS, something like that) making a gnarly +150oz on 8.4v. Not that it's necessary. This digs well enough on a servo making like 30 ounces.

And mind you this is close enough to real time (ish) I didn't tune ANYTHING. Just swapped links and changed shocks. It honestly isn't awesome on the 80s, it's just not enough travel with the angle on the shocks, and standing them straight up acts too stiff as the truck has shed three quarters of a pound of sprung. I guess I did tune a little, I just didn't even notice I was doing it.

The best part is the guy is open to any suggestions I might have, so the front bumper mount has already been redesigned to accommodate a micro servo winch. SOMEONE ASKED ABOUT THAT LIKE 18 HOURS AGO

@@CrawlerCanyon That's so awesome. Gotta love that responsiveness and enthusiasm. This is clearly really well thought out and I'm looking forward to the next one to see how the corner weights work out with a little more fine tuning. During this video I couldn't help but also think that Associated sure makes a good shock

New to 10 scale scene, you have a link I can check out for those?

I'll talk to the guy-- I think he could probably rework the front bumper mount into an all-in-one for a micro servo winch mount-- which would be SUPER clean.

I seem to remember someone mentioning that getting an SCX10 Pro over there was like $750USD, so the Vanquish almost looks cheap by comparison. We pay taxes a whoooole lot (usually three times by the time you've bought something) but if they ever tried to add anything like VAT over here, we'd be throwing something in the harbor again.

Probably. But this is one of those instances where the motor is so low and so far forward, I'm using the weight. I just used my usual approach to wiring, which is "attack it with zip ties. Looks halfway decent. Blue Sky High NEEDS an outrunner. His CGH is WAY too high.

@@CrawlerCanyon thought that from the beginning. BSH motor position is nuts.

Phoenoe

I wish I could give you a satisfactory answer to those questions-- but there are too many variables in the way. I have no experience with the ProLine crawler shocks, so I don't know what oil I'd run in them, and shock angle is determined in part by the stiffness of the springs, and I don't know how stiff those are either. Non-specifically, I run between 300cst and 500cst on 80% of the fleet (there are those oddball shocks that need +5000cst oil,) and for springs it's the rate that will keep the shock about 6-7mm from fully bottoming out at RTR weight. If there's most of the shock shaft showing, the springs are very likely too stiff.

@@CrawlerCanyon thank you for the input. Pointing me in the right direction. I ask because your Zoku rig is too sick. Hoping to replicate it! I hope to see a follow up video on your Zoku Phoenix rig. Let’s say the springs are very stiff. More or less angle on shock mounting?

@@shoualor1707 Leaning the shock over lowers the effective rate. A 2lbs/in spring @ 90º is the stated rate, and that same spring laid over at a 45º angle is around 1.4lbs/in. As to a follow up, kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mcueetJ_r9bYnXk.html

Thank you sir!

As this is on the Zoku video, I'm going to assume you have a Zoku and therefore need micros-- so yes, the SW-1250 will fit, but I would do everything in my power to talk you out of them. They're pretty much the most expensive micros I've seen. The 1251s would fit the regular Phoenix chassis, but again-- far too expensive. When they're in stock, the Flash Hobby 1227 are my new go-to for micros. Otherwise, it's either the AGFRC A20CLS amzn.to/3T6yAL7, or the super-economy option, the Injora 2065 amzn.to/3t37rhy which are like 2 for 35 bucks, and use standard 25T horns.

@@CrawlerCanyon Thank you so much for your response and time. I really appreciatie it! Till now I only upgraded machines and after many years have the possibility to build my dream machine. :-) The Savox is indeed expensive, but also around the corner as in my country there is not a lot. Still I'll look at your advice. Again thank you so much for all your video's etc. It really helps many people!!!!

zokurc.com/products/zoku-phoenix-lcg?variant=46685345087805

Tough to compare, honestly. One has a lightened VFD in the middle and the other has a full-built VFD-Twin-- and the servos to run it. Capability wise, it's so SO close, but they very different. I'll still take the Twin nine times out of ten, because if I can get dig, I'm gonna take it. The VRD is clearly designed for a pretty specific competitor. The Phoenix is capable out of the box, and feels like cheating with a Zoku in it.

There would have been one, but zero holes on the Phoenix parts line up with the holes on the RP chassis rails. If it's on RP rails, it's certainly not a Phoenix anymore.

You can contact the designer/maker through Instagram, instagram.com/zokurc/

I don't think this chassis would present any more difficulty than any other Phoenix SOA conversion-- which is going to be a lot, as you can't can't do BTA servo (the motor is right there) and getting that driver's side upper link is always fun, as that's where the driveshaft lives. Can it be done? I'm sure. Will it be worth it? That's the real question.

We're gonna find out pretty soon, I hope.

For the Incisions, I would say 40 or 50 weight, depending on how much damping you like. With the straight axle shocks, I’d say start with the top row, middle hole, and adjust accordingly. Further back will raise the body and raise the effective rate, moving them forward will lower the body and soften the effective rate.

Thank. I'll be trying this weekend

I always try to sidestep the question with a winky answer like, "My favorite is the one I'm wheeling at that moment," and that is certainly true. But cards on the table, I'd say Daphne the Sport. No fancy features, built like a tank, and can crush virtually any line. She's so good. For tuning, I would start with the video on anti-squat: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nJxppbKh2J7Lo30.html as it covers the basics. Then fire away with any specific questions you might have.

@@CrawlerCanyon apparently I can’t write coherent sentences

Artful dodgers makes some superb quality stuff-- but if you want to "keep it a Phoenix" then it's Zoku all the way, as it was designed to fit the Phoenix body. I also like the OD servo mount from AD, but wildly prefer the dig mount from Zoku. Say we were talking about say the Groundfox I built for Element compared to this? The quality of the 3D prints on the Zoku give it the edge for me, as a guy who doesn't generally trust 3D printed parts. The fit and finish of both is close. I consider AD an "LCG kit" where the Zoku is an "LCG conversion."

Thanks, that makes sense. I have an unbuilt Straight axle and can't decide what to do with it - keep it a Phoenix and try this chassis (small downside I already have a Phoenix portal so looks-wise it'd be a duplicate in the fleet) or try the AD and put a completely different body on (thinking Proline Beetle for giggles). Benefit to AD route is I'd have a spare Phoenix bodyset if I ever destroy the 1st one.

It's really good. I haven't even begun to dig into proper tuning, I only just now got the wiring straightened up. But my goodness does it feel almost illegal. In case I didn't make it clear, I DO NOT like it on 80s. The chassis will work, but it really sings on a 90-95mm shock. And it is SO easy to build.

I have some g-made 90's already to go on the kit. Some hair buns also. 😁

Removing weight is also a strategy, but when I'm talking tunability, it's generally about suspension tuning, from shock setup to link lengths and positions. Sometimes weight is unavoidable, and getting the sprung/unsprung ratio where I want it simply isn't physically or economically feasible, so I unfortunately have to start doing the math and fiddling with links again. Sometimes it's as simple as changing shock length, angle, or position... but most often it's not.

I have them laid over a decent amount compared to stock. Those shocks are of course completely rebuilt, modified, and given to Daphne, Argentum is now on 2660 BIg Bores with Element SE springs, and they're damn near as good. I don't think it's 100% the shock here, and more the geometry.

@@CrawlerCanyon I'm sure it's the Zoku, but I was wondering: is the shock angle 90° starting from ground level or over and are they fully compressed at that point?

zokurc.com/

Fantastic on the 3D parts-- he's doing 85-100% infill, and all holes are pre-tapped. It honestly goes together as well as injection-molded.

@@CrawlerCanyon thanks for the info! You did an amazing job on the review.👏

Backyard.

The difference being all of the material in the Artful Dodgers box feels... odd. Like, you can tell it's not from here. My stuff arrived in a strange light-green padded envelope that felt like it came from the past.

I don't wanna just say, "you're doing it wrong," but if that's your sum total experience with the Phoenix, then... you're doing it wrong. The Phoenix in stock configuration isn't any more top heavy or prone to tipping than anything else out of the box. I do take note that you neglected to mention what body is on the Element-- but my guess is that it isn't a Phoenix. Give 'em a body swap and see if anything changes. The Phoenix does remarkably well in stock configuration of that body. Sure, you can suck some of the fun, spirit, and life out of it by putting a (retch) Cliffhanger on it and fix most of people's perceived problems. But sometimes it's not just about the easiest route to the destination. Don't get me wrong, I love me some Element-- there's Element on most of the rigs in the fleet to some level or another. But an out-of-the-box Enduro SE vs. a Phoenix? Not very close. Against a Zoku Phoenix? Not even fair. I'm not surprised about the Fusk. Lots of tires are location-specific. The Jetko Conquerors did great here, then went off to their forever home in Montana and did not do well at all. Some people have luck with Pitbull, and I've yet to have a tire from them do even remotely well here. Some tires are a bit more "universal." Oh-- I usually feel the same way about 3D printed parts, in that they have no place on rock crawlers outside of beer coolers or other scale gubbins. BUt Zoku is doing 85-100% infill, and the fit and finish of the parts is as good as what's coming from name brands. Never so much as cracked a single part.

@@CrawlerCanyon I love, and appreciate, that you respond so thank you! You are correct about the body on the Element. I either run the Gozer body with Traxxas Canyon Trail tires or the Proline VW crawler bug body on class 1 RC4WD Flashpoints because they fit this body without having to hack it up. I think this gives it a slight disadvantage because it's straight axle and not portals so I lose some ground clearance but I understand this is a highly debatable subject. What's funny about this is that my normal group of crawling buddies is made up of of 3 other guys that usually bring a Phoenix themselves. One is a straight comp build, super lcg, super low profile body, portals...I'm talking TONS of money in this build. The other has a slightly more modified than mine Phoenix and his seems to do the best. None of us are winning any comps with the Phoenix, not even the highly modified one. I'm no pro, I'll admit that straight away, but I do have a collection of 18+ other crawlers from 24th to 1/8th scale that all do pretty well so I'd like to think I understand what it takes to make these things somewhat competent crawlers. I just can't figure out this Phoenix. Then again, maybe the terrain here is just not Phoenix friendly? Seems like a HUGE stretch but I don't know what else to make of it. I agree that Element is not a first choice when people think amazing crawlers. Having said that, we have some others guys in our groups that went fully belly drag comp style rigs. One of them does particularly well and has a couple of climbs named after him, or his rig, because he's the only one that can make it up. The names were almost changed because my element also made these climbs. I posted video in the group we're all part of and it fueled a massive heckling for a couple of the guys that try and try and try but can never get up these things. It's really quite confusing to watch and even more so because it was done on class 1's. I truly do appreciate that you take time out to respond. I can't thank you enough for not leaving people on read. Just one more aspect of your channel that makes it so great. Thank you!

@@urg0nnah8me Oh, If I were gonna build something dedicated "comp" I'm sure not putting a VFD Twin in it. Too big, too heavy, too complicated. I also for whatever reason strongly prefer the portal over the straight axle, but REALLY like the straights in other builds. I would, do, and will say Element > Axial. All day, every day. In the entire Canyon fleet does not live a single Axial gearbox. Or chassis rail.