Just getting started fishing the big water, thanks for the tips.

Great video , would love to see an update on how this method worked over the last year and any adaptions you have made.

Your still the man .

Just found your channel, from Toledo and launch out of Bolles. Interesting finding someone close.

Thank you. It all makes sense.

Paul Doute is a legend

I’ve lost several rigs when Smile Blades sawed through 15# fluoro leader. This happened quickly after letting the rig out, not from long-term wear.

Do you have a suggestion for a decent video to learn the process for tying up the harness?

I’ll try that blue fox , 2 or 3 hook or slow death hook on the back……? I’m fishing in stain water and black water.

What colors do you tie your spinners with I drift with spinners in Lake Erie

If you go mid, shallow then deep, how do you get your mid past your shallow board? Are you planning on letting the shallow board back a little then bringing the mid board in front of the shallow board?

Thanks for sharing this information. I’m getting into walleye fishing with my 8 year old. I don’t want to be the pathetic dad who can’t put his son on fish! Would you be willing to direct me to a place where I can purchase blades like that or other blades you recommend for the eastern Michigan system?

Your going to be picking up Steel out there in 70 fow. Been there done that.

Interesting, middle, shallow, deep. Can you explain why not shallow, middle, deep? It seems you wouldn’t tangle with this either.

Sizes confuse me. Bigger number bigger spinners?

Links to these places that you get beads, clevis and boxes???

I’m laughing at your stubbornness on converting to quick change clevises. I did this long ago. And your OCD tendencies crack me up, too. I fish from a row troller, an Adirondack Guide Boat. There’s no way I have room for inefficiency and inventory. Everything has its place. Interchangeability and efficiency has to be built into my tackle. I go right down to the weights on my homemade bottom bouncers. I use tungsten bass weights that I can slide on and off the bouncers. I stack them on the bouncer stem as needed. Tungsten is twice as dense as lead and saves space. increased density reduces drag and line angle versus lead. Smaller size means fewer rock snags. The super hard tungsten also slides through snags whereas lead compresses itself and jams itself deeper into the snag. And by the way, the individual tungsten weights make one hell of a racket when they clank together while you’re actually bottom bouncing. Lead doesn’t do this. Expensive? Yes. But on my last outing I spent zero minutes with snagged bouncers while fishing a hard rock bottom. Zero. I’ve lost exactly zero tungsten bouncers. I’ll never go back to lead. Period. Other bouncer features that eliminate wasted time are soldered connections anywhere line can tangle or get snagged on the bouncer. Take the time to do this! Use solder or a uv cure resin. I don’t use anything but high quality ball bearing swivels at line attachment points. Finally, the short arm on my bouncers is longer than commercial types to keep my leader from wrapping around the main stem of the bouncer. And this arm is attached to the main bouncer stem just like the removable blade clevises are attached to a leader… a spiral metal winding on the aem allows the arm to spin around the main bouncer shaft. I use a lighter gauge wire for this arm, too, which also helps to allow my leader to unwrap itself should it ever become wrapper around the main stem. Have you ever used this type of bouncer?

Too many ads.

You can pretend you are solving rocket science problems but talking about it makes you look silly.....Fish are not as smart as you think LOLOL