I watched a video recently that shows you need to heat up your bed to the material you normally print, then leave it heated for 8-10 minutes, then do your bed mesh. The heating process tends to raise up the sag in the middle of the bed, making the entire bed flatter. This will be a good complement to the things you're suggesting, little brother.

Helpful info thank you

Good show Scratch ;) It's far from the smoothest but it allowed me to level my K! MAX bed like 80% better in 15 min so...I'm getting improvements all around so cheers to that mate.

Excellent, Just did my bed in 7 iterations and accurate to .078 range of error, no point trying to better this as the computer takes over but slightly less work to do than before, Top Man, Well Done

Hey thanks! I had a range over the mesh of 1.3mm before adjustments (with bed heated). Had some issues getting good first layers on the back of the bed and it didn't seem as if the ABL could compensate for this I tried doing the Creality suggested method (screwing the bed down, releasing the belts etc) and that got me to 1.0mm. Then tried the belt skipping but I released tension on the belts using the provided spatula with a rag (to not cause scratches) to get leverage. That got me down to 0.76ish mm range but couldn't really get it better. Then I found this video and tried loosening the screws on the left/right front axis as you mentioned and after this it felt like I got some more room for adjustments with the skipping. So now I'm down to 0.59mm. Will do some tests and see if it's better or if I need to play around more 🙂

Smooth!

awesome !

workt perfect

How do you get to the bed mesh tho!!!! I cant find it anywhere!!!

Hey scratch! I’m trying to access the 3D printer with the up address but I can’t seem to be able to get in. I get a connection has timed out message. I tried it on Chrome and Firefox with the same results. What could it be?

I also saw that video.. And I think that the problem can be definitively solved by replacing the plate with an adequate thickness of 5 or 6 millimetres.. Also because waiting 10 minutes each time to heat the plate is a nuisance.. what you do and a forcing that in my opinion can work but as the parts wear out it won't be good for a long time

I want to advise caution about this technique of forcing the screw to turn. The thing is, all three screws are attached to the same motor so that it only takes one motor to drive the z axis. What you are doing is forcing the one pulley to turn against the belt, forcing the teeth to skip while it's tensioned. That can't be good for the belt. I don't know what the effects of this will be, maybe you can get away with doing it a few times. But I'm worried that this can damage the belt. I would recommend going through the full process of opening the bottom of the unit to remove belt tension first so that you don't shorten the lifespan of the belt, or worse.

Hey

Maybe it's an easy method. But with a good chance to damage parts of the printer long term. My print bed has a similar deviation. But as long as the automatism is able to cover it, i am fine.

That is very bad advice..... you should NEVER force the belt to skip in this manner. The method is fine but you must loosen the belt before or you can damage the belt.

I fixed my K1 Max by returning it and buying a Bambu.

Hmmmmm, don't skip teeth, just undo both those grub screws then you are free to turn the rod. Same as how you level the gantry on a 3 V3 SE, there is a Creality video that shows it.