Hi! Thank you for the trick! It works not only on a Sebenza. So simple solution for a mind blowing problem.

Dang Dude, Why aren't you saying "Allah" before saying Lock bar.

Thanks so much for this tip. It worked great. my sebenza now has early lock up and no more sticky lock. I just got the edge pro and have watched all your videos. your info has helped me a great deal. I have one question. how do you sharpen a small sebenza on the edge pro. The stonel hits the thumb stud and you cannot remove. Is there a way? Thanks again.

I was a little skeptical considering the tight tolerances of the seb. To my surprise, it works and works nicely. Thank you.

Thank you! Worked great. Finally gives my thumb a break!!

Always enjoy your vids,thanks.

Just tried it on mine, totally worked. Nice trick dude thanks!

Thanks. Worked well on my Emerson CQC-7. Lock was almost touching the show side. This brought it back to about 55%.

Wow this one is like magic, it really works!

lmao, what too, do you use to take apart the folding bits? just a strange observation kind of like when people use scissors to open a new clam shell pack of well scissors...

Great info John!

What about spinning the little bar the blade sits on, I think the banging of the blade to the back bar may cause a small flat spot?

Thanks for the movie mention. Big help!

That is a good tip, I am going to try that and see how that works

very interesting. I have used this trick in the past on other knives but I am surprised to see it work on a sebenza. You would think with CRK famously tight tolerances that there wouldnt be enough give to the parts to have that dramatic of an effect. Very cool.

Neat trick John!

Very cool trick!

Would that work on a sebenza 31? Since the 31 has different lock geometry now.

When you say it gets rid of stick, do you mean it gets rid of that Hydraulic feeling Stick? Or seriously bad stick that makes you have to push hard and makes a loud sound?

Should I sell all my folders and my otf for a sebenza? Honestly back when I only had 1 edc knife was so much more enjoyable to me and I really want a damn sebenza, plus the 21's are going soon and I dont like the 25's at all

what neptune video do you speak of? I don't think I saw that one.

Great video - thank you!

Is their any trick too make the Lock bar not so dam hard too disengage?

Just wanted to say, I found this and tried it on a second hand ZT 0450 that had late lock up, and is much better now, thanks!

Q: Hi I'm picking up one next week unless I find a baca folder I'm looking for. Can you thin the washer for me? Thanks

I've tried this a few times on my new sebbie, and for some reason I can't seem to get it to work despite following your instructions to the tee... I guess it's not a big deal, but I'm just puzzled as to why it's not really working. :S

Thank´s John it worked perfect!

Does that bench made tool work on the Spdy Southard is so what the name of the tool, again? Ty.

@Kahrrr Not on any of the ten I've done. The first one I did was over a month ago and it's still exactly where it was.

Yup, that's my guess as well. My only question would be how long would it take to shift back into into position?

Doesn't it work because you're very very minimally moving the locking side up towards the blade, so because of the angle it locks at it touches it earlier, therefore locking earlier?

would this work on a tenacious?

Neat trick, but is it necessary before the lock bar is close to 100%? I mean does it affect the rate at which the lock bar wears? I don't know what the smoothing trick is, but my small sebenza's blade falls freely when I disengage the lock bar after lubing it with CRK grease (+ one months worth of pocket lint).

Thanks just did this to my new Insingo, worked great. I noticed on mine that the blade swings freely when disengaged. Thanks.

Again great vid. Keep it up

Wow, cool trick..that's awesome.

That's a great trick......thanks.

Thanks very much for your tip. Just received my new Small Sebenza 21 Insingo today and after following your advice, the lockup is now reset to 50% from approximately 90%. I'm extremely impressed, thanks once again!

Definitely a cool trick. wonder how many other knives it will work on. Kinda similar to fixing a Militarys blade centering.

Bro! Thank you so much. I was tripping. I just got a used sebenza 21 black micarta to go with my Inkosi black micarta, and the lockup on the sebenza was at 95% and I was thinking I was going to have to send it in to the factory. Awesome video brother thank you so much.

where did you get the allen tool?

Thanks for the video jd.

I tried this a couple weeks ago and now my Sebenza is tighter than it was, even after breaking it down and putting it back together with lubrication TWICE lol. I'm seriously bummed out and I'm almost positive I'm going to have to send it back in and pay to get it fixed. Anybody have any insight?

That's pretty much what I was thinking as well. The lock bar is now in effect "longer" in relation to the blade due to the offset.

All of the old ones I've handled (only 4) have been really early. Guess those were the exception.

does this work on other ti framelocks?

It very work!! thank you

Nice info, thanks

That's an awesome trick..I just need a sebenza to try it on

this is a good trick, i have to do this on my zt 0551 inorder for it to lock up tight and it works great. id love to see how you make your sebenza smoother! not sure if mine needs it but im still curious.

Awesome trick, did you come up with it?

@donotstealmythunder Due to the construction of the 0561 it won't work on that knife.

Can anyone tell me the advantages of early vs late lockup?

I discovered that years ago and I made a crappy microsoft paint drawing demonstrating that. I think I posted it in blade forums. I think I advised to tap the lock side’s bottom while screws were slightly snug then fully tightening them after. Same result. It’s just ever so slightly shifting the slabs within their minute tolerances to one edge or the other.

JDavis, do you have any Sharpening Videos on Striders? I'd appreciate it if you could do one if it's needed. Thanks a TON.........🤝🏾🇺🇸💪🏾

Very cool.

cool trick!

that was awesome. I'm trying that on my sage 2>

Thanks you rock!

What's problem of late lockup

It works because you're offsetting the scale with the lock bar further forward ever so slightly. Since the locking face is slanted, this will make you contact the locking face early in the slant. If you measured the centering of the blade before/after with a caliper, you should see that the blade is ever so slightly further to one side that the other, but clearly not visibly so based on your results. Thanks for sharing!

What's the benefit of a early lockup?

I was wondering if you could tell me of an all around good site for knives and knife products in general? I'm a new subscriber so sorry if you've already mentioned it before.

@WeaversofEternity That's weird man it's worked for everyone else so far. Are you sure you're getting the scales apart before you apply pressure and tighten it back down? Maybe make a private vid showing what you're doing and I'll see if you're doing anything differently?

If screws are loosened in this manner and tightened down, could the washers get pinched? Not trying to cause controversy, I want to try this

wondering when you were going to put this up. My sebenza works but still has a little play so I'm going to get tuffthumbz to carbidize the lock. Chris isn't much of a help right now.

@jdavis882 why do you have 3 plan sebenzas, why not any with inlays?

WOW 10 YEARS LATER THE KNIVES THAT I CAN SEE IN YOUR COLLECTION ON THE SIDE ARE STILL HIGLY FAVORED

The process CRK uses doesn't apply a layer like carbonization does. When carbidizing you are actually applying a layer of foreign material to the Ti. What CRK does is different. It doesn't apply a layer of a foreign material. It essentially forms a hard oxide layer over the soft Ti. It's all in the "Exquisite Blade," which is a movie put out by CRK. Watch it, it's great!

So, in effect the two treatments are different. No one that I know of to date uses the method that CRK does. Everyone else just carbidizes the lock face. Carbidization wears off pretty rapidly in wear points, the carburization oxide layer doesn't. It can withstand literally tens of thousands of openings without wearing through.

Supposedly you can do this with any framelock or linerlock even. I think Jeff from Karg Knives once did this for a ZT0551. Good reminder for early and late lock ups.

Nice, I saw V6 upload this same trick a bit ago, it's very very handy :)

Damn!! Thanks!!

Hey bud if u know anyone selling a large sebenza or strider sng for 300 let me know please thanks

Pretty cool vid, I am kind of shocked that a Reeve is subject to this trick.

wow thank you

Does anyone experience early lockup after assembling their seb21? I follow the CRK disassembly and cleaning vid and put it together the way they do and every time the lock up is super early, like 20% only, always have to adjust it like this video for a later lockup.

Thx 4 sharing

tolerances on the individual pieces like the holes in the handle scales, the sizes of the standoffs, and alinement of the pieces allow this to happen. Cool trick though!

What is the name of the manufacturer that makes the folding tool set used

In my experience the regular Sebenzas sometimes had early lockups but for the most part the Classic and 21's lockup has been at 50% + for the most part.

I can see why early lockup is important for a liner lock but why for a frame lock?

I think carbidizing will work and Ive already tried to sell it with disclosure and it didn't work thanks to heather.... but worst comes to worse I use the hell out of it until it no longer functions :) either way I'm gonna post in the crk forum to show the carbidizing.

I thought carburizing was a case hardnening method for steel, and the thing people do to lock bars as called carbidization because it involves depositing a thin layer of tungsten carbide on the surface with an electric current.

good trick. It's simple. your actually just making the lockbar taller by pushing the locking side up making it come into contact with the tang earlier.

Nope, I actually checked for that. It doesn't really move the scales any appreciable amount. They are still square and plum. It may move a total of 1 thou.

Worked on my Knife Art carbon fiber. Took it from about 80%+ to around 50 or 55%

i just got a lock fail on my 2006 classic small sebenza (early lock), my 21 have a late lock up witch i now think is greater lol

Could this be something that was intentionally designed into the knife?

Hi, just watch this video, is it gonna work in inkosi?

Hmmm.. That is awesome

This trick seems to work by slightly shifting the allignment of the knife scales. By doing that, the pivot moves slightly downward while the lock interface moves up, and that leads to the change in lockup. I tried this but ultimately my lockup goes back to about 60-65% because I didn't torque my screws down. I wouldn't do this unless you want it bad enough to slightly deform your countersinks in the titanium. That said, if you were to do that carefully, it should work fine. I'd rather ask crk to give you a slightly earlier lockup and send it in to adjust the lock bar tension or replace the blade if need be.

@xiuxiu1313 The one where he beats the shit out of a sebenza spine whacking it. Chris called him after that and wasn't too pleased. Lol

Couldn’t you just bend the lockbar out carefully to make the lockup earlier? I’ve done the opposite (to make the lockup later)

Nope I've never really tried it on anything else. As long as the stand offs don't have bosses in them this should work.

Dude that blows. If that carbadizing doesn't work I'd just try to sell it full disclosure, or something. It's just a bad deal all around. I always check my lock faces for flaking now. It's safe to assume that if it flakes, you're SOL. He will never believe that we didn't abuse the knife somehow.

holy shit it worked!!!!!

I think he's just worried that it will wear to the other side. The earlier the lockup, the longer the lock will last. After a lock wears to the other side, I could see how further wear would cause lock rock or blade play of some sort, because the lock bar isn't pushed hard against the tang.

@jaylang11 It literally was. Haha

how would late lockup ever be a problem?