Hahahaha i might have done that once or twice in my day as well...

I think it’s perfect for a narrow niche of people who want to upgrade from a box cutter and just ok for everyone else.

Looks perfect for places with unreasonable blade restrictions though. I'm going to hold off on it because it's made in China. Wouldn't buy anything made there while their is still playing 1800s empire.

Well said!

Definitely would be a good little paper cutter, among other things. But yeah, it actually had the shape of a scalpel/hobby knife now that I think about it.

Hey man, I'm great, how about you? And yeah, while I get what you mean about steel, if there was any place to skimp on this knife, the steel was the right place. What I mean is, if they are set on hitting a certain price point for profit, with this model it's definitely better to go cheaper with the steel than it is to say, make this a partial tang model. Now, on their other knives, that argument isn't always as easy.

Just an FYI to people out there that get this knife. If the cap is rattling on yours just put a piece of cotton ball in that cap the rattling completely goes away. EASY FIX

Thanks a lot for the support!

Hey man, I completely understand what you mean. But functionally, a simple box cutter eliminates the need for a ton of popular knife models, certainly not just this one.

@@JTsKnifeLife touché

I don't even know what 3ct and 5cf are. Never heard of them. If what you're trying to say is I should know the difference between low quality steels that perform the same, ny response is that no, I shouldn't. I have zero interest in any knowledge of steel that doesn't have a practical, real world application. Just because knives perform differently doesn't mean ine steel type is better than another. There's way more to it than that. And anyone who says they can tell the difference probably doesn't know shit about steel at all.

@@JTsKnifeLife obviously I meant 3cr, 5cr, 8cr, 7cr, and yes, I definitely think you should know about the item and quality of the thing your reviewing... it’s very easy to learn. Plus these steels are used way more than you think, and the fact that you don’t think they have “practical applications” shows you very limited knowledge of knife steels.. spiderco was a very big user of 8cr18mov, and many many other brands use similar steels in their budget knives. All steels have a place, and you really should spend some time educating yourself if you want to better yourself and seem like your opinion is actually useful... or you could just go on being smug to commenters

@@shawnpepin7890 I'm not being smug, you're just wrong. It would be possible to test the differences in those cheap steels and find that there is one if you had a completely controlled environment. Meaning the exact same blades with the exact same symmetry just in different steels. Then, if you cut exactly the same way using the exact same media, and you did that test enough times maybe you'd see a difference. (Keep in mind, there will always be a variable as to how well the steel is heat treated. Judging the steel without knowing the quality of the heat treat variable would be like onky visiting Alaska and then saying that America is a cold, frigid country) That said, this type of use is not real world possible. With steels as soft as these, heat treats that vary, and edge geometry that is different, the way that a knife with soft steel performs will never be consistent. Now take into account that real world use is not pretty or clean. Cardboard is dirty or wet. Dirt and grime happen. There is less control. Maybe I don't know details about what elements are in steels or why "this is supposedly better than that", but anyone who makes declarations about the way they are in use hasn't used them enough and certainly knows less than me.

@@JTsKnifeLife I’m wrong??? Lol. Wow, now if that’s not a smug ignorant thing to declare

@@JTsKnifeLife just because their are variables, does not mean thing can’t be tested, and knowledge can’t be had... there are chemical differences between these steels and you SHOULD know what they are

Sounds good hahaha. I'd be happy to send this one your way if you like!

Agreed. 👍

Hahahaha yeah, definitely need to take it out before the airport too. Been in a couple sticky situations myself because of stuff like that!

@@JTsKnifeLife I saw some “tsa confiscated” box opening videos all cheap garbage knives but cool nonetheless as a knife fan. I doubt they are truly tsa confiscated or if they are they know to pick the good stuff out like spyderco, benchmade ect.

@@JTsKnifeLife kzfaq.info/get/bejne/arqHm5pps7LMZn0.html

@@bumstudios8817 There are some ebay sellers that buy that stuff in bulk from the TSA. Gotten a few decent things from them over the years. I haven't lost anything too great though, haven't been quite that dumb yet.

🤔But imagine then pulling on the cap and finding that somehow the knife is still sitting in your pocket🤪

Two things to keep in mind though: 1) What it's gonna be used for. Edge retention is sort of moot when all you're doing is opening packages or cutting string. 2) How thin the edge is. I have a 4Cr14 Kershaw that outperformed almost every bit of 8Cr13MoV that I've ever had because it was so thin behind the edge. I think if you have a problem with edge retention on this knife, you're using the wrong knife.

My wife had the same reservations about me but we're pretty happily married.

@@JTsKnifeLife =D

Ahhh, yeah, that would have made sense. Good idea.

For sure.

I thought the titanium looked great, but was pretty pricey. This new bbq one looks fine, yeah, but I wish they had changed the color scheme. Regardless though, glad they're doing it.

I've had 4Cr14 outperform D2 because it was ground so nice and thin. Steel type doesn't mean everything, and if you need a better steel on this knife, you're using the knife for the wrong things.

@@JTsKnifeLife That has not been my experience

@@marksantostefano1637 What did you use this knife for that made you think you needed a better steel?

@@JTsKnifeLife yes it does depend a lot on how the manufacturer heat treats the steel and grinds it for the particular knife. I used 4c for all kinds of cutting tasks. Anything that I’ve used below 8cr does not retain an edge well in the knives I’ve come accross. I think 8cr is a good steel and I do like D2 even though it is what I would call semistainless. My favorite steel is M390. By the way… I work in the knife department of Cabela’s so I see a lot of knives. My favorite knife for the price is the line of Honey Badger Knives.

Not sure I'd go that far. I've used 3cr/420 knives at work for breaking down boxes, cutting paper, and opening coffee packets. In my experience, I usually get a day or two's work out of them before I have to resharpen. Though to be fair I like my knives really sharp and don't go out of my way to abuse them... I imagine 5cr would be much the same. Its a soft steel so it won't hold an edge a long time, but it should be easy to resharpen/touch up. That said there are probably better steels (7cr/440A/4.116/Aus8/8cr) that wouldn't have raised the price of this knife much and would likely have improved its edge retention.

Just my opinion, but the Al Mar Stinger is hideously ugly.

Awww, even the Provoke?

@@Zen_Ali_123 especially not that atrocity

@@tacticalcenter8658 👊😆🤜

Hahahaha I'll agree on the Provoke.

Personally, I think the Provoke is the coolest thing they've ever done and I'm a traditional slipjoint nerd, go figure 😁