Loving the 1965 work. Please don't rush and stop filming! We love it.

Such a great channel!! Thanks for sharing all that! Restoring my 67 euro bug at the moment

Closing in on it, so satisfying to see you get closer and closer to the end. Hopefully you will be driving it soon, at least you know the chassis and drive train are all set!! Can't wait to see it all together and bombing down the road again!! You definitely saved this one from the crusher!!

Lap welds should be avoided wherever possible: butt joints can be made almost invisible and need hardly any filler. The rasp you are using is far from ideal: you could get a body file that can be adjusted for concave surfaces. You should use a grinding disc to knock the surfaces off welds that are too high before moving on to sanding discs, and various grades of flap wheels work well. You shouldn't use a DA sander to grind down welds: a flat rubber backing disc with abrasive sanding discs works much better. DA sanders are designed to be used on flat surfaces: you can get away with using them on convex surfaces but the are useless on concave ones. As others have said, you should not use too much hardener in the filler, and when you have applied you should leave it alone until it has hardened. If you keep trying to smooth it out once it has started to harden you tend to just pull out what you have already applied and make it rougher. Far better to let it harden, file it smooth and then apply a further thin coat to any imperfections. You may need to do this more than once on external bodywork, but it shouldn't be necessary under the fenders. These comments are intended to be helpful and I hope that you will receive them in that spirit. Best wishes

Amaizing, beautiful work this is the feature. 👍

Methinks one pass of filler should be good enough and the rasp is probably more geared towards thicker filler applications. Also maybe sand until it’s level and leave it alone and move on to the next panel.

Nice CT ! Thanks Straight Ahead✌😎

Always enjoy 😊...

So glad your learning ! It’s fun to observe the progress and witness it coming together !

Que capricho! Fico impressionado pelo nível de cuidado com os detalhes! Parabéns!

Protip. put the cheese grader in the garbage can. use 60/80 grit to do all of your rough shaping. clean up with 240/320 and move into 400/600 from there.

Nice work CT excellent job on the bug

Looks great brother.

Brave man for putting your learning video's online for all to see.

Sooo happy to hear that you plan on painting the Gia !

Greetings from the UK CT. Looking great! Can't wait to see this finished and out on the open road.

Ótimo Trabalho está ficando Ótimo seu Trabalho

I had that same crack in my old garage. I filled it with epoxy then attacked it with a concrete grinding disk from Harbor Freight. It worked. Not perfect, but it leveled out nicely. No more lost nails, screws, washers etc.

I think is looking sweet! Can’t wait to see more updates! The petina is gonna look great! Man you’re gonna have your hands full in projects! But looks like a lot of fun. Definitely I’ll be watching!👌😎👍great job Ct.

Good work CT. Always fun to watch.

Coming along nicely.

There are a lot of experts out there however do what you want That’s how we all learn. Keep at it

Looking good CT. Bit by bit by bit its coming along nicely. Cheers

Anyway, some chemical rust remover should be advised to get the best result on lap welds. The depression and feasures can't be reached with wire brush or grinder. This video became almost ASMR stuff, interesting.. pretty different than usually. Spread the bondo more on areas with depression, a bit over the minimal thickness and don't wipe it to death. Leave it a bit proud, then sand and cheere-grate. Hardener usually is used also according to temperature, so the hotter it is, the less hardener required or speed up. Spread it with vertical squeegee to feather it out over the low side, don't forget also to degrease and dust off surface before applying, the peeling spots usually indicate contamination. Personally I'm not really a bondo fan, although sometimes it makes your work a charm. Anyway I prefer take some time to do excelent metal job, which spares you tons of dust. Bondo shines on non-destructive repairs, when you avoid to "hurt" the back side of the metal. It's not crappy, just need to smooth it out a bit more with second or third coat. Sometimes you can improvise with some sanding blocks of EPDM foam, like the one for insulation, which is between sponge and styro-foam. (I don't have a clue how's called at your place) 🤔 All in all seems promising... 😊 Keep it on, some elbow grease and success is guaranteed. Cheers.

You need to watch Bad Chad and how he finishes a new panel, he covers the weld seam with fiberglass filler sands and finishes with standard filler a lot of sanding for a great finish.

Keep it up, love this build up, you are a cool builder!

Looking good!

Saludos de Mexico CT

You might try mixing a little shorter time. Only need to mix until the blue streaks are gone. It seems to be starting to set on you as you start. Something to try next time. Keep up the great work on the bug.

Well done man! 👍👍👍

Nice work on the VW

Hi buddy , looks really good for underneath the fender . 👍

Lovin it.. CT

Hi CT, enjoying your video's. Please consider a dust-mask as a sponsor item for next video's

Bom Dia Ótimo domingo

Just like welding, bodywork is an art… the more you do, the better it turns out, and you’ll get some practice on this!

I think your doing really good for learning as you go. You might consider using a seam sealer first especially on the lap seam. The little car is taking shape and I feel you will your knowledge to go forward on the rest. Keep the videos coming.

But on the end of the video it look very good👍👍

Evercoat sells a product called Plastik Honey, it's basically filler resin. It's helps with pinholes and dry time. Rule of thumb, it's always better to spread more then enough; then having to keep applying filler. Don't be afraid to lay it on there, you can always sand it off..

Hello C. T., the Carmanguia and Volkswagen sedan projects are going very well. The concave part is very difficult to repair, you have to take it. greetings.!!!

Try adding more filler above the weld line and apply it horizontally and then feather it in. You might be waisting your time with the rasp. Love your show and am very interested in the outcome of your projects. Keep it up. Body work is a skill for sure!

Little filler you are needing you need only a very little harder in it and when you don't see any more blue, go put it on the car, don't keep mixing it. 👍

May I make a suggestion next time you go over welds you should use metal filler because it doesn't let moisture in them use light body filler and then use glazing putty to fill any pin holes.

The entire car is meant to be blocked. You have to get creative and find something close to the shape of the panel to use as a block. I've put paper around a plastic drinking glass to get the curve correct before. Keep at it Love these old VW's.

Hi CT! You did pretty well on that inner fender. I want to make a suggestion on your editing. Put in some background music. Maybe some original stuff you create yourself. Some narration in spots other than the live stuff like during the fast stuff? Give it a try 👍🏻

Hi CT what are you doing ??🤔 this tool, is only for shaving or grading woodwork. the Bondo work is ok👍🏻, but you will get better at this also in time just a lot of practice and you are there🇺🇸🙏🏻 Greetings. Hubertus🇳🇱🇳🇴☮🍀

Show 🇧🇷 🇧🇷 🇧🇷, poderia preencher com chumbo, ficaria bom, depois só prime fechava. Mas está ficando top esse Fusca.

Cut off a piece of pool noodle and wrap your sand paper around it

It would be interesting to see if you could that bug back together and driving. It would be your first completion.

They make a small curve bottom cheese grater that will fit perfectly in these areas

Filler or "bog" as it is known in Australia has been used for decades and it is a painstaking operation. In fact before buying a used car you would always take a magnet with you and if you couldn't hang it on those parts that were liable to rust or in places where dents look to have been, you wouldn't buy that car as you were only buying trouble.

Down there in Hot Country and you're still willing to be totally uncomfortable by wearing a dust mask and a face shield. There's something to be said for your interest in safety.

You need to cover bare metal with protective primer before storing the result for a while.

I think you’re going to end up painting this car.

I dont think that drywall rasp is doing you any favours

I'm thinking that I would put some seam sealer over them welds just for some added protection.

If you were going to paint it you want to put a thicker coat on there and feather it out further. But for what your doing that is just fine. Under the fender that would look just fine. nobody would ever see that. all that is less than 1/16 thick. you can go up to 1/4 inch. But you would not need that either. The trick is to release a thicker coat off the bondo spreader. takes practice.

Hey CT, you've come a long way since pulling your first Karmann Ghia out. May I suggest that you may have an easier time spreading the filler on a concave surface like your wheel well by using a rubber squeegee?

we use 2 leading it in with heat and lead//big spoon and lead use your torch .

if youre trying to make the area FLAT and hide your welds and seams, stop tipping the sander sideways using the leading edge of the sander and digging all the filler back out and making it wavy and curvy, use the sander FLAT.........

Hey CT, all is looking great. Excited to see the chassis and body get reunited soon. Any updates on 'Rusty' the bus? Would enjoy seeing that project again as well. Thanks. Keep up the good work.

I have a request could you play Fire and Rain by James Taylor and tell us how to find your music channel, I would like to subscribe, good job I never knew you could play so well, a star is born.

One can seal the welding seams with tinn soldier, that lasts for ever.

🤜🤛👍👍

Very cool CT! What happened to the 914's?

I support your work, it's cool, interesting and keep going forward! BUT, I'm not an expert, but I think all seams that have recesses that cannot be cleaned and sanded will lead to rust sooner or later. Moreover, the superficial one was already present at the beginning of the video. I think in these recesses it could stay. I could be wrong, I would like that.

I WANT THE SWAMP TRUCK

Hello, Here is a true story told by my daddy, Olof (born in 1930). His first car was a Fiat 600 -58. The car has a lot of rust demages. He tryed to "fill up" these using Plastic Padding. A guy come to her and comment: "It's a very uggly color on your plaster!" Whitout lifting her eyes he answer. "-But it is a good product. If i put on your mounth it will be held closed!" The guy steps away whitout a word. 😂 He is still allowed to drive cars. Now a Toyota Avencis -2003. Not so rusty.

I absolutely love your content but watching you do body filler was very painful. Just put the putty on and leave it alone. Great videos.

Any updates on the Swamp Dragon, Ford Bronco and Rusty?

the heat of the day// can make your hardner set to fast

Cuando va a pintar el wv

That rasp is the wrong tool to use on body finishing, the power tool does a good job with very little effort.

Get youself a can of weld thru primer mate

No rust protection before the body filler? Good luck with that.

Maybe glass mat woulda worked better its messy but worth it. Or seam sealer it just my guess CT.

Serviços muito bom mas esses remendos com chapa remontada que mata

Everybody say: Poor Rusty

Golf ball to a pea is how to do filler, remember if you were to mix the entire tin then it's 1:1 ratio, all you are doing by not using the correct ratio is wasting money and making work for yourself. Keep plodding along and you will get there in the end.

yes too much hardener again

over mixing on time // should be on the body its drying on your board ,before you get it 2 your car paching intime

12:55 someone please invent a curved rasp!!

Why didn't you use this special kit for searns easy to work with and paintable

set-up a test on cardboard first //drying time

U don’t need that much hardner only 3% so for that much u only need a small dot

Are ya getting back to swamp dragon

I miss the rusty combi where is it😢

When are you going to work on the Ford pickup frame to make it a roller you are starting to many projects not finishing the projects you have already started .

2nd COMMENT!!!!!!!

Shoot some paint on it and cover it with undercoating. Nobody will notice…

What happened to the swamp dragon

You’re wiping the fillet too thin, leave it thicker, 4” on each side. Get rid of the cheese grater, you doing more harm than good with that thing. Lap joints leave one side higher. The way you did the vertical weld, by creating a butt joint is way better. Primer, base coat won’t mater, you will always see that line. 80 grit to shape, 180 to refine and remove 80 scratches. 320 to get rid of 180 scratches and ready to paint.

You are working at the speed of a snail with a broken leg amd the rasp is not a good idea

No need to be perfect where you're doing the bodywork because that gets undercoated

You haven't finished that project. You still have rust holes to fix, slow down and do it right or you will be sorry.

It’s not a “restoration”, it’s just normal “bodywork- rust-work”.

You're just a skill enemy sorry...

Not worth the time and effort or money. It’s never was a cool car.