The exclamation mark in your password: this is not an issue with fysetcs implementation but a 'linux-ism'. In a linux commandline, something prefixed with an ! is treated special, but so are many other 'special' characters like the & and backslash. You get around this by using single quotes around what contains those special characters. So, if your password is $1!A&b, then you type '$1!A&b'. Don't use double quotes ("), because that instructs the shell to try and interpret those special characters anyway.

Im so happy that modbot reviews and puts effort into things when no one else will. Its quite the struggle to figure these things out for a beginner so its such a help for many to know these things

It’s an awesome board! Just finished my Fysetc 0.2 R1 Pro build a couple days ago

Another benefit of switching skirts to 0.2 is the filament runout sensor embedded in one of the feet. It requires some extra parts, but the placement is brilliant!

Thanks for the mention!!

The new Catalyst board is pretty cool (only included in their new Voron 0.2 kits) and seems to fix a lot of problems, especially this weird mess of wires to connect the head. Still some problems with documentation though, but the discord server is very active. I got one of their kits and I'm pretty happy with it.

Good to see more info about this board. Inhad ordered an fysetc 0.2 kit, which should come with the cheeta board and separate umbilical breakout board. However, they upgraded my order to the 0.2R1 kit eith the Catalyst. The Cheeta has soldered drivers and a faster MCU. Plugable drivers is fine, not complaining about the slower MCU for plugable drivers. But I’m super sensible about trusted OS sources and running this system with a preinstalled OS is a problem. I also run my printers with Octoprint+Klipper, which means I have to deinstall whatever is already installed. Documentation is another problem, however there is a schematic and it looks like removing the CM68 and hooking the MCU to a Raspberry might be possible. Using another printer board is not easy, since I don’t have the umbilical breakout. I havn’t powered up the board yet, still building the printer. From the hardware standpoint this is a nice looking board and I really hope that there will be OS images from a trusted source without undefined preinstallations.

Oh hey, I just finished my first v0 this morning. I put a SKR Pico in it but might upgrade to a Manta E3EZ and CB1 for the extra features. Nice to see a new board for it though

Great concept but falls short of being a great choice for the price. Maybe price would be justified if it included CAN.

Lol! That “Tom” must be one heck of a guy.😂😂. Great video!!

Nice video! I agree it should have all the connections that are going to the toolheadboard also on the mainboard but shipping it with a Can toolheadboard I think is too crazy. On a V2 it makes sense, but for crossing a 20cm gap (not even in a cable chain) and with the possibility of just turning the printer around and accessing the electronics it is simply not worth the hassle. Can has it's downsides, it is difficult to set up.

Umbilical seems silly when CAN is built in. To expensive to replace my BTT SKR pico and Raspberry pi zero W 2 . Under $75 would be more enticing for a full CAN setup

It’s possible that it wasn’t retaining because the system was set to sync the drive at 30 minute intervals. I had that problem with the Fly Mellow V3 board’s web config. I ended up overwriting/hardcoding something to make it work reliably

I really appreciate that they didn't go with canbus and went with a dumb toolboard

I love the typo on the toolhead for the "ASXL" chip.

Hey Daniel. I'd really appreciate a video covering the Dragon Burner. I can't seem to find any and I love the details you cover. Just an idea. Looking at putting it on a trident soon.

hey modbot can you please lead me in he right direction to getting the latest voron 0.2 kit.. i found it on ali express but im worried about getting the wrong one. i really just want the latest on because i heard its better than the 0.1

Can you tell me the brand of the pegboard style boards you have hanging on the wall.. Thanks

Sort of torn on this one. Builders tend to be more technically savy; however, with so many people building their first printer making the process seamless is vital. The board looks super clean and tidy. I agree the package choices are... Unusual.

8:52 why would one put ifconfig behind sudo?

This sounds amazing. The MCU reminds me of BTT CB1 for Manta or Octopus. I love it, will probably get it while building myself a Voron 0

I have the V0.2 non R1 kit. Frankly, i think my setup with the Cheetah 3.0 + Pi3B+ is superior to this, and the wiring at the back is as clean as what I'm seeing here, even with two separate boards + the umbilical.

Price comparison wise, it looks like this board has a WAY more capable compute module (Klipper host), compared to rather minimal Manta with CB1 and especially the FLY-Gemini with it's ancient H5, with only 1GB RAM and no eMMC included (much slower to boot off of SD card). With that all taken into account, I think the price is very competitive. (The Manta could in theory be run on a CM4 compute module but those cost quite a lot more than the CM1's and good luck with getting all the software running on the different CPU etc.)

It seems like you haven't mentioned the significant performance boost of the CM68 compute module compared to the H616 on the CB1 or the H5 that comes with the Mellow Fly Gemini V3. Additionally, it's worth noting that the CM68, which is included with the catalyst, has 32GB of Integrated EMMC and 2GB of LPDDR4. In contrast, the CB1 only has 1GB of DDR3L and no EMMC, while the Mellow Fly Gemini V3 only has 1GB of RAM.

Also in general, all of these Chinese "Raspberry Pi nots", whilst currently more readily available and comparatively cheap, are almost always a nightmare to get running with many things that "just work" on a Raspberry Pi. It's common to get everything but one critical thing working and having to just give up in the end. Documentation (English esp.) is sparse at best, drivers for some things just don't exist at all and before any of that gets sorted out, the board will get abandoned for the next bleeding edge and completely incompatible version. It was here that you experienced most of your setup heartache, which was about par for the course for these SoCs - all that from someone with years of Linux experience. It boggled my mind that relative n00bs get anything working at all. Thank goodness for those forums! Otherwise, it's all awesome! :P

0:32 There's a typo on the box. "OLED Dispaly"

Do some og 360 videos again, rgh3 came out

When in ssh and you need to put in character that has a special symbol you can escape it via a backslash or but the entire parameter in quotes. You shouldn't need to create a new wifi network for this.

If you buy this one, you will engage in an in-depth study of Linux. Moreover, the kernel has no modules, the drivers are compiled into the kernel, which is why most of the hardware does not work (for example, my camera). Additionally, there are no ready-made images of the installed system. If you somehow damage the installed linux you have two options - throw the mainboard into the trash or get a PhD in making linux images on rk3568.

While it seems like a neat, but niche, controller board, the lacks of proper documentation on a single location really is a pain point. Discord is not a repository, or even a open forum. If Google can't go there, it shouldn't be the only place where such info resides. Unless I was mistaken, the problem was more of a Linux, rather than a this specifice board issue. So it could have been solved without, but still, not everyone has such knowledge.

Can’t say I’m a fan of those recent new boards with the plug in step drivers. Feels like we had finally gotten away from them …

I wish the community would move away from CAN and just make boards that took usb data lines and 24v

Not enough USB ports. Wifi / Klipper Expander / HDMI display / portable ADXL - fail

Next time do “!password” the quotations make a big difference

I'm assuming this is more of a part made to be bundled w/ their Voron 0.2 kits, and sold on the side for additional income at a higher value. Definitely not worth $100 😬

awe, chinese product, hell of a good idea whatever it may be, may work super well also. just its up to you to document and figure out how to.

first :)

I really dislike the trend of open source projects putting documentation on Discord. It's an unnecessary hurdle, and a closed ecosystem. You require users to have an account, and if something ever happens to the server, all the info is destroyed and unrecoverable. Discord is not for documentation!

So basically dont buy this thing, seems like its still in beta

Nice informative video, but this kit is honestly a waste of time and way overpriced, I run a single USB cable to my tool-heads on all my machines, which is the same as running CAN, its also only 4 wires as well, and for the price of this Kit, I can buy almost all of the parts to build a Voron 0.2, the kit would need to be sub $75 and be using, CAN or USB connection to the tool head, I think Fystec have wasted time and money on this, one can buy a MKS-SKIPR with 3.5" Screen and a THR-36 tool board for far less, and these boards are far more capable, or you can also pickup a Kingroon Cheater board (also made by MKS) and use a Mellow or BTT USB/CAN tool board, this would bring the cost right down, the Cheater board has everything you need for a Voron 0.2 and its cheap. The Cheater board and the BTT EBB will set you back around $100 USD retail, so half the price.

Hi 👋 you are absolutely right. Fyscet is awful company. There are very few documents for the board on the site.

Fysetc really needs to change their name. Was it meant to be Fystec? Because Fysetc is fucking unpronounceable.