Thank you for the feedback...glad it helped out! Yes, it is pretty amazing how much it can actually help reduce handlebar vibration.

is it like day and night difference ? or like noticeable but not annoying ?

@@subhan1641 for me it was day and night. My hands used to fall asleep due the vibrations. After the mods -still a little vibey, but no issue with my hands.

Have you tried filling the whole handle bar with birdshot?

I have the same bike ktm390 adv. how did you remove the threaded part in the handle bar?

Thank you for the feedback. I'll have to checkout the diver weight pellets. I was initially surprised at how well it works...been super happy with the mod (I've done mod on 4x dirt bikes and 2x quads).

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq Divers lead pellets were easier to get hold of for me. Glad it worked for you !. Heavy Bar ends( not cheap after market) worked on my road bikes, but tracer had very wide bars like yours, and rubbish lightweight bar ends that added more useless width. Removed and put in lead dive pellets. Sorted. Really great you posted vid for others, sometimes simple is best !

@@douglasalexander4348 You might find this read interesting: I did some research on what type of lead pellets I actual purchased 5 yrs ago... 4 lbs bag of "XS Scuba Lead Shot Weight" using #5 pellets. It seems that lead pellets are the same for either Shotgun Shells or Scuba Weight bags...main difference is that divers can use reclaimed lead shot (much cheaper option when buying in bulk). So, it looks like we are using the same stuff! 😂 I'm going to purchase a bag of the #4 shot (slightly larger pellets with more mass -- #5 is 0.12 inch and #4 is 0.13) to see if they work out better. Do you know what size pellets you used? It looks like #5 might be the most popular size used in scuba weight bags.

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq What a coincidence ! Not sure what size, it was a mesh bag for about a tenner from simply scuba. Not sure there was a choice other than weight of bag. ref mass. You would get more weight for area with smaller shot, less air gaps. My yamaha stock bar ends were light, replaced with quality heavy Honda, and made a big difference. So heavier is better. Another thought I had was fisherman’s casting weights, big lumps of lead, then infill gaps with shot, but seemed more of a faff. Keep me updated...

@@douglasalexander4348 I found (on Amazon of course!) scuba bags with #4 shot...the main selling point was same weight/mass in a smaller package. I'm going to purchase a bag of #4 and then compare actual mass differences for same size/volume of tube. I'm sure there is some special formula to calculate such differences, but I'll just use the medieval method. I understand your comment on less air gaps; however, you will have "more" air gaps (total non-used volume is the key). A solid piece is max mass (stating the obvious), but it seems logical to me that there would be a hypothetical sweat spot of pellet size to number & size of air gaps when considering volume of available area...where just the right ratio yields more mass than going bigger or smaller on pellets. This is all well and good if true, but the only difference I care about is if I can get more noticeable mass with #4 vs #5 shot, for the volume/area used in my handlebars. Special Note: My grandparents are from Bishop Auckland...I have 5+ish years in the UK ("sorted", "tenner" , and of course "faff"). I'll keep you posted on what I find out...it most likely will not be until sometime next month (Jan 21)...have to buy the pellets and a digital scale. Hope you holiday season is relaxing and enjoyable.

I think that is correct...I know at least some dead-blow hammers use multi size pellets as the filler material. The real trick with limited space (inside handlebars) is to still have enough mass to make a difference.

I hope the mod works as well for you as it does for me. All 4 of my bikes have the mod ... A world of difference for me...

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq Finished the mod the other day (DR 650) while it did not reduce all the vibrations it did make a big improvement! Very noticeable in most rpm bands. There are now sweet spots with much less buzzing, something that was not present before. I did not have corks so I used some high temp silicone foam and cut it to fit tight. I also used #4 and #6 bird shot. Thanks for posting this, it was really helpful!!

@@RatherBeWheeling Glad it helped out some. Are you going to keep the bike now or still push it off a tall cliff? lol... Also, seeing that #6 shot is about 15% smaller than #4 you can gain some extra dampening by upping it all to #4 size (the small extra mass will make a slight difference -- might even be a noticeable difference).

Glad to help out... and as a fellow CR500 owner (1985, 1987, & 2001 model years)...I actually know how bad it is needed on such a bike! I've tried tons of aftermarket solutions and the mod I came up with has worked out the best of any of them (at least for me).... CR500AF... I'm jealous... I hope the mod works as well for you...I've never tired it on a 500 before.

Hello Sweden! I hope it helps out as much for you as it did for my bikes...and there are more than a few on this comment trail that tried it and it worked out really well for them as well.

Sorry for the extremely long delay with a reply...overlooked your post by accident. Sorry, but the mod only really helps with handlebar vibrations. You might sense a minor improvement for the other condtions you mentioned.

I hope it works as well for you as it has for me (I have it in 4 motorcycles and 2 quads). Also, does "Bishop Auckland" mean anything to you? My mom's side is from that neck of the woods....spent a lot of time in the UK when I was a kid. Last time I was there was back in the late 2000s doing work with your RAF for F-35 stuff.

is the universe knowing you needed it... LOL so says Neville Goodard...

No. Think of a salt or pepper shaker...when they are filled to the top you cannot get much of anything out of them when you shake them. All the bird shot needs to have a small amount of movement. The visual I'll give is if you have a clear tube filled with water and plugged at both ends...if the tube was laying perfectly flat/level you should only have enough water in it to leave a very small air gap at the upper portion of the tube (across the entire run of the top of the tube). You should be able to hear movement of the bird shot when you shake it but it should NOT be very much movement. If you dump the bird shot in "WITHOUT" any extra packing/shaking to compact it you should be able to run the cork in until it comes in slight contact with the first piece of bird shot (holding the bar end vertical). I measure the gap form bird shot to end of bars so I know exactly when the deep end of the cork will end coming in slight contact with the bird shot by subtracting the cork length from the gap measurement. Also, I'm assuming you are using lead bird shot because steel shot will not work nearly as well. I hope that helps...drop me a note if you need more info.

Steve Smith cheers,yup it’s lead shot,cheers for the heads up,I figured it would be ‘loose’ as in a dead blow...thanks for replying so quick...now if only it stops raining (no garage) ...ha,ha,that’s Manchester for ya ! Cheers.

@@joelfildes5544 Been there....lived that for more than a few years (UK weather & no garage). Our riding problems out in southwest US are 1) almost too hot to ride (note the word almost), & 2) too many excellent riding days throughout the year makes it hard to go to work when you could be riding!

Steve Smith ha,ha..I’ll take it !

Hey, it only needs to work well enough for you...i wish something like that would work well enough for me! I know my setup works better than the factory inserts on some quads and bikes...because the factory inserts didn't work good enough. Have a good one...

how deep you inject the silicone?

Thank you for the kind feedback... regarding foot pegs... are you talking vibrations in the foot pegs??? If so, then there really aren't many viable options IMHO....and none I'd do/use for an off-road motorcycle. Your options are to isolate the foot-pegs from the frame and/or isolate your boots/shoes/feet from the foot-pegs. Either solution, to work correctly, will make for a very mussy feeling where your feet contact the bike.... not something I'd like to be riding with/feeling when trying to control/feel the bike via the contact points...foot-pegs being a main one. Just my two cents..

Adding mass to your bars will help, so the epoxy will change things...but it doesn't have very much mass so it might not be that noticeable/much of an improvement. I'm interested to hear how it works out. I like using the dead-blow method because you really do not notice the extra mass in the handlebars, but it works as good (maybe better) as having a lot of mass in the bars.

Had the same problem on wife's quad... thought it best just to replace the bars with aftermarket. Id have to see what your ends look like to give any suggestions.

Not sure exactly what you are asking, but here is a short simple explanation of why adding mass to the ends of your handlebars reduces vibration(s) felt. bottom line, IMHO...if you ride your bike and do not have any hand/arm pain from the vibrations then you do not need to do any vibration mod. Here is why you might need the mod: Vibrations can be caused by the sum of different sources (i.e., a running engine, anything mechanical). A 125cc generates vibrations as much as a 500 cc engine...the only diff usually is the freq range of the vibrations generated. The real problem comes with Harmonics (resonate) when the vibrations get-in-line with the natural freq of an object (solid or held together). Most everything has a natural freq at which it will resonate (vibrations that grow in strength ). A small engine generated vibration can cause your handlebars to vibrate multiple times stronger due to harmonics (this can be extremely noticeable at certain engine RPM ranges). Adding mass at the ends of your handlebars changes the freq range(s) that causes your bars to vibrate (mass tunes your bars to resonate at diff freqs). Think of using your legs to make you swing higher on a swing...if you do not swing your legs at the right time then you will not swing any higher. Your engine vibrations can get in time with your handlebars vibrations thus causing much more powerful vibrations in your handlebars the same way your legs cause you to swing a lot higher on a swing set. Try quickly revving your engine (blip the throttle--don't hold it) in neutral and see if anything on the bike starts vibrating aggressively at certain RPMs (i.e., brake/clutch/shifter levers). Hope this answers your question...

Total Genius-ish...lol 😂... 😉 ...but that was the best detailed reply to anyone I've ever noticed on you tube... 👍... well done...👏 👏 👏

@@Eve....747 thank you for the (too) kind feedback... Have a nice one...

While driving?

Zero that you can hear at anytime...you do not hear the mod even when the motor is off and you move the bike around it a super quiet garage. Other than the handlebars not vibrating as much, you would never know the mod was installed.

Yes and No. Adding more weight at the ends of bars (critical to add it at the ends of the bars) will up the mass level and thus soften the vibrations some. However, adding the same mass while keeping some space between the pellets allows the pellets to absorb the energy vs just being dead weight. It is the same physics used in Dead-Blow hammers. A normal hammer just has mass and thus you feel the hit through the handle...while a dead-blow hammer has mass that is free to move "some" and you really do not feel the impact through the handle and into your hand and arm. Hope this info helps... have a nice one...

I think I use size #5...but it will depend on the inner dia of the bars you are using. You might need to go to a size #6 for some bars. You can sand down the rapper some if the cork is a little to tight on the big end. Do a search for cork size chart and you should be able to find the best size for your bars.

I cut my corks to size from wine bottle corks. Worked great.

Cool...thank you for the post...

It's been installed for over 9 yrs in my 2014 300 xcw (300+ hrs)...and no, still working/holding up.

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq F king love these real life examples that been tested.. Thanks man.. AWESOME. im in!!! Also thanks for responding. Truly helps a ton of us! Im a newbie .. so thanks!!!!! God Bless! 🙂🙂🙂

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq Subscribing.. thank you. Love folks helping others out

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq an 300 hrs at say 50 mph be like 15,000 miles.. plus your rattling the hell out of it on dirt.. ok im totally sold.

@@bwnco thank you for the kind feedback ... First time KZfaq helped me was 2007 ... decided then to pay things forward-information (if I can). Have a nice one...

1 pound should be plenty more than enough. I used xs scuba lead shot weight bag (got it on amazon)...3 pound bag is approx $17 ... Use keywords XS+Scuba+Lead+Shot+Weight

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq Thank you so much!!

Good question... IMHO the two main variables that make the mod work well are: Mass & Volume. A 2mm pellet would easily address the volume side of things; however, I do not think that small of a pellet has enough mass. If they are made of lead (vs steel) then the mod should help some (if made of steel then will only help a little -- my best guess). I'd opt to use lead balls in the 3-4mm range. Hope this helps...

Thank you very much I've found 1kg worth of shot 3mm however, in some of the other comments you've left you mentioned #4 size which is 6.86mm. Which should I use? Thank you

@@elvisisalive Here is what I purchased for the mod ( www.amazon.com/XS-Scuba-Diving-Weight-Orange/dp/B0020L0GKQ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1KVOQ2MQBF7LP&keywords=XS%2BScuba%2BLead%2BShot%2BWeight&qid=1681483388&s=sporting-goods&sprefix=xs%2Bscuba%2Blead%2Bshot%2Bweight%2Csporting%2C130&sr=1-3&th=1&psc=1 ). Also, be careful on the sizing stuff... "buckshot" is not the same as "shot" (#4 is completely different between the to -- #4 buckshot is 6.8mm -- shot is just 3.3mm). Sorry, I should have made sure I emphasized "shot" vs "buckshot". Here is a link to a chart that might help ( www.rivermenrodandgunclub.com/shot-size-chart--recommendations.html ).

First off, thank you for the kind feedback. ... Good question...short answer is no real noticeable impact to the feel of steering....if anything it feels more solid/stable. The mod is actually less mass/weight than the vibe kits sold on the market (the solid insert types). There are tons of things that add more weight to the bars.... for example: full wrap handguards, dual sport factory mirror (off clutch and brake perch), steel vs aluminum handlebars, GPS or CEL phone mounts with electronics, etc.. Also, the biggest resistance to overcome for steering inputs comes from the gyro effects of the front tire/wheel assembly...not so much from the small mass added into the ends of the bars. However, If you put a bike on a lift stand so the frontend is off the ground...and you did before and after tests (with mod without mod) you might feel the slight amount of extra mass/weight when moving the bars left-to-right-to-left. But, if you have a steering dampener installed, or other crap on the handlebars...the vibe mod mass is such a small percentage of the total mass of the handlebars setup that it becomes in the noise (too hard to notice). I've never noticed the mod to ever impact my steering...or feel heavy...but I massively notice the amount of vibration that doesn't end up in my hands and arms! Hope this info helps... have a nice one...

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq First of all, thank you very much for your detailed response! I appreciate it. Secondly, without wanting to be repetitive or annoying, I don't know how to understand how much lead shot is enough inside the handlebar. Should it be slightly compressed from cork to cork? Also, is there anything else I could use instead of cork? I apologize if this has already been answered, but I'm not very good with English. i ll give it a try in a couple of days. Thank you

@@frsendurotm Not a problem... I'll answer in several bullets.. - The lead shot should have some movement, but not very much--at least 3/4 full, but no more than 7/8 full--just enough movement of the lead shot to sound like a rattle shaker--do not compress the lead shot nor pack it to the point it has very little movement. - Cork: the cork is used to keep the lead shot in a same size volume area--meaning the cork at both ends doesn't move inside the handlebars so the area between the two pieces of cork never increases or decreases in size/volume--cork pieces don't get closer or farther apart from when you installed them. If the cork moves after install then your lead shot has too much extra space for movement or not enough space for movement. - Regarding use of cork--you can use anything that will not move and keep the lead shot in a defined space. Rubber stoppers would work pretty good, but I'd only use stuff that you can get back out or be able to relocate if needed (meaning being able to increase or decrease the volume area for the lead shot. The concept is the inverse of a dead blow hammer. A dead blow hammer distributes impact forces over a longer period of time thus making the initial impact not as aggressive...especially not as aggressive back up the hammer handle and into your hand. The vibration transmitted into the handlebars is deadened by the force of the vibration being distributed over a long period of time and ending up out of cycle/sync with the vibration traveling back in the opposite direction...the lead shot tends to be moving in the opposite direction of the vibration freq and thus end up with an energy canceling effect...resulting in a lot less energy in the vibrations...meaning less and lower intensity vibration. Here is a quick footnote on dead blow hammers: In a conventional solid-head hammer, the force of the entire solid mass of the head is delivered at the moment of impact. Compared to a conventional hammer of similar weight, a dead-blow hammer conveys less peak force, spread over a longer time. At the moment the face of the hammer head contacts the surface being struck, the sand or shot within the head is effectively trailing it (due to inertia, it is collected at the opposite end of the head). The force imparted by this additional loose mass within the head is not imparted to the struck surface at the moment of contact--so for your handlebars this means as the handlebar vibration starts moving in the opposite direction is about the same time the loose lead shot that is still traveling in the initial direction--opposite direction to the new direction of the handlebar vibration--causes the lead shot to impact the inside of the handlebar and cancel part of the vibration movement energy (the lead shot tends to be always traveling in the opposite freq direction of the handlebars and the two item keep slamming into one another and canceling out some of the vibration energy) . Hope this all makes sense... hope your able to get the mod working well for you...

Good question... the answer involves physics...but I'll just use the same analogy I provided in the video (dead-blow hammer). The same reason why dead-blow hammers do not have stuff in the handle area...little to no return on investment. For handlebars, anything past/outside the perch clamps can move/vibrate independently...the farther from the perch clamp you move the more the movement/vibration. So adding the deadening weight/material towards the ends of the bars provides maximum effect...the closer you get to the perch clamp the less the impact and thus you are just adding weight with little to no return on investment for said added weight. The best solution is to have all the weight added to the last 1" or so of the bars, but the best off the shelf solution I could come up with is the diving weights/pellets added to the last portion of the bars. Hope this answered your question well enough.

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq thanx bro, answered it good.

Imagine the vibrations going through your entire handlebar and into your hands without the mod. You're getting all the frequencies. Adding more mass to soak up the vibration to the ends will help but will still transmit some vibration as there is "no space" between. Now imagine having space for the little lead shot pellet to vibrate out inside its own mass, bump against each other lead shot pellet, the corks and yes also, some to your handlebar. All that energy coming from your bike and on to the handlebars in the form of a spectrum of frequency vibrations will be absorbed by different sized objects, with different densities (corks, #6 and #4 pellets) with room enough to move and "not transmit" and the end result is less vibration with attenuation of several frequencies. That's the only thing I would change to this mod, put different sized pellets in but I doubt it will make much difference. The frequencies that make your hands numb are higher, that's for sure. Higher frequencies, travel farther because they are higher energy. They'll vibrate through you your grips, gloves, hands, bones and to your nerves. This causes numbness.

@@matrolen thank you very much!

It can be it certain situations, just like rubber can be. However, not in this situation...just shoving it into your handlebars...wrong application/situation. Handlebar vibrations require mass to deaden the vibrations, and the cork is 99.9% used to just hold the mass at the ends of the bars...where the mass can be most effective. You have three options. 1) stop the vibrations from starting in the first place -- cancel at point of source, 2) stop the vibrations from getting to the handlebars, and 3) deaden the vibrations at the handlebars. Cork will not do anything for options 1 or 3. However, you could use it to isolate the bars from the vibration source...but cork is not strong enough to withstand the loads that would be put on it. Thus, cork really does not work in this situation.

@SteveSmith-wl8yq they actually do sell handlebar mounts with rubber inserts that work just like that. Cant remember the name

@@entropy5125 A lot of the off road manufacturers used rubber handlebar mounts back in the 70s & 80s... You actually had to buy metal inserts if you wanted your bars not to twist in the mounts on simple tip overs.... I remember those days. Have a nice one...

I'm using a scuba bag with #4 shot...I found the item on Amazon (of course!).

I picked up some #7 shot from the gun shop. I can't fit corks in my bars, the end of the bars have a screw hole for bar weights, so I filled the bars, seems to do the trick

@@evanmcconnell3389 That is a pretty good solution! Glad you were able to make it work for you.

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq does any size lead shot work? I would imagine #9 to be a bit heavier than #4 shot.

@@jonnybgoodslol9206 Do a search for lead shot size chart...you will find that 4 is bigger than 9...it is reverse. It is total mass with movement between each other...to little movement is just as bad as too little mass. I tried to make it like a dead-blow hammer, so you do not want too big of shot otherwise it will just be stuff bouncing around inside your handlebars...little deadening effect. I think a #4 or #5 would work best (but I'm just going off past experience--no actual data to back it). You can use lead shot in diver belts as well...in fact I found it to be the easiest to find/purchase (good old Amazon!).

I thought about it, but because I didn't have a way to hold the phone and do the task at the same time...you just get me talking about the procedure. Also, the procedure isn't that complex...so I figured words alone should suffice. Is there anything additional you would like shown/explained??

Nice!!

That is one way of doing it...but it doesn't have the same density effect of lead dead-ness. Buy a deadblow hammer and replace the pellets inside it with spray foam and see which configuration has more of a deadening effect...there is a reason deadblow hammers don't use spray foam.

Steve Smith Couldn’t you just put a cork on each end and fill the whole bar with pellets?

@@Canyon_Shawn Yes, but IMHO the vibration area you want to deaden is where your hands come in contact with the bars (the ends) and the middle of the handlebars is hard mounted to the top triple clamp, so the vibration frequency will increase (get stronger) the farther you get towards the ends of the bars. Filling the whole length of the handlebars adds at least 4x times the weight without that much more of an improvement in vibration at the ends. I rode by 300XCW over two days (150 miles) the past weekend and never once felt handlebar vibration as an issue...however, I could feel it from time to time in the foot pegs. This mod may not work as good for everyone...but is sure works extremely well for me.

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq True.. You should try experimenting and making your tube only the length of the handle bar grip, I'm curious to know because I just bought the ktmandhusky brand of short bar ends. They are much smaller then your tube, and I wonder if this product vs your diy contraption is a better design :) I think the extra weight of the steel ends I got would help too. If you take a fishing rod and you shake it from the handle, the tip will bounce around faster and rougher then if you held it the otherway around. The handle end would travel further but slower and be easier on your hand... OR think of a pool plank bouncing after someone has just jumped into the pool. If vibration is movement weight slows it down. But probably worse at higher speed

@@brendon8702 Thank you for the suggestion...ive already messed with the amount of shot and where in the bars...and over many yrs I've also experimented with many different setups (both bought off the shelve as well as custom designs). What seems to work best for the freq of virabation that causes me issues seems to be best countered with the current setup im using. However, each person is different and thus might be best resolved with a completely diff option. I hope you find something that works well for you.

Good question... the answer involves physics...but I just use the same analogy I provided in the video (dead-blow hammer). The same reason why dead-blow hammers do not have stuff in the handle area...little to no return on investment. For handlebars, anything past/outside the perch clamps can move/vibrate independently...the farther from the perch clamp you move the more the movement/vibration. So adding the deadening weight/material towards the ends of the bars provides maximum effect...the closer you get to the perch clamp the less the impact and thus you are just adding weight with little to no return on investment for said added weight. The best solution is to have all the weight added to the last 1/2" of the bars, but the best off the shelf solution I could come up with is the diving weights/pellets added to the last portion of the bars. Hope this answered your question well enough.

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq makes sense. Thanks for a good reply and video

@@waynek7190 Thank you the kind comments...I hope the info / solution is helpful at some point.

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq You should be a physics Teacher!! LOL

@@bwnco that would be a fun job...but only with kids from before Y2K! Lol...

I hope it works for you as well as it has worked for myself and others....

Expanding foam really shouldn't do very much because the physics behind the mod working is based on "MASS" that can move opposite the resonance/vibration frequency. Foam will move with the vibration vs move out of cycle some. Also, the vibration in the mtb handlebars is created mostly from the terrain and thus doesn't have a set freq so the mod shouldn't provide as much deadening as on a typical motorcycle engine. Please drop an update if you try either (or both) types of mods. I'm interested to read what you find out.