I see quite a few painting videos where it seems the airbrushers are spraying in an open room. Perhaps that's just for the video. I'm curious if you use a spray booth?

My wife does not like it when I watch your painting videos. It always results in more paints that I need to add to my inventory. Great tutorial!! Thanks & cheers - Larry.

This is such a good hobby and your videos encourage me so much and I'm so thankful of all the tutorials and videos not only you produce but a lot of others also. Get your rest daily Boomer we need you in the hobby sir . . . This is Brian from the Eaton Steel Mill in Kansas, I thought I better check in on you cause I'm a big fan of the same type of locomotives that you use on your prototypical shelf layout. The 35 series of EMD engines has always been one of my favorite of engines. I've never been a big fan of GE engines but since I've seen your BC Rail 8-40b I've turned my likings towards the big GE's. Cheers Mr. Boomer . . . Hats off to you sir 😊

Most of us are always trying to gain / acquire more space for our layouts…even after we start planning and building….that said…because of you Boomer…I need to acquire more space for my paints and supplies….😎 Thanks again for great modeling advice with first hand demonstration. Randt

Ok, the “artists never over analyze” made me laugh because I remember someone with dozens of samples of green River paint ranting about over analyzing. Thank you, that made my day.

The box behind the cab is an electrical compartment air filter box. Actually, Cannon has 2 different types of this filter box if I recall correctly. And I think this was all a part of the dash 2 line. Boomer, this is a master class in how to paint and decal. You are a superb teacher. Cheers Rob

Boomer, Very nice, the video is just the right length. I was able to space out 1 hot-x-bun, 2 Easter Eggs ( medium size), 2 cups of coffee. There should be more day's like this, thank you. Cheers, Chris Perry.

Dear Boomer, absolutely awesome project! Love the way you showed all the different steps. Beautiful how the separate parts slowly come to life when each layer is applied. Super duper SRY locomotive. Pleasure to watch! Cheerio

That box behind the cab that you thought might be a tool box is actually an air filtration box

Thank you for all the information from someone who is terrified of an airbrush!!

I've always used a primer when painting models... i never started using Tamiya paints until i discovered your channel and now love them. That said, what you said about them being a primer makes perfect sense. Always learning. Thanks for the great content. Your videos inspire me to push my own modeling skills.👍👍👍

Learn? ALWAYS... Like everyone I go through each episode. TY so much...

Truly enjoy your work. I model exclusively steam era, but appreciate your "model theory". Additionally, your videos are overall entertaining.

Such a tremendous video, there's a ton of tips & tricks packed into this (and all your vids). One of the "tools" I didn't hear you mention when you did the washes (filters) on the pilot is GRAVITY. As you say you can get such cool effects with this technique. The wash will act differently on a subject laying flat versus one that's positioned vertically. I belive you did the pilot in a vertical position. Great job again Boomer, thank you! I can't wait for you decoder video!

You always amaze me with the instructions, techniques and your skills🙂

The bracket above the rear headlight is from its Atlantic Coast Line days. It originally had gyralight mounted to it. Really loving all of your content!

Great job, beautiful locomotive. Doing the decals is very satisfying and my favourite part of a paint job.

I painted my little MNNR 316 with Tamiya gloss enamel as a base for my decals, but committed the cardinal sin of forgetting to carefully clean everything again after liberal use of micro-sol. After a few days I started to apply Tamiya acrylic semi-gloss clear to the cab, only for a white halo to appear where the puddles of micro-sol had been 😱 I had an initial moment of panic before, in desperation, I grabbed a cotton bud and isopropyl and managed to carefully wash off the just-applied clear without damaging the decals. Needless to say I then thoroughly cleaned everything before starting again. Rookie mistake, but it left my heart in my mouth after so much work. I'm certain it's only the quality of Tamiya paints that saved me from having to repaint and decal the cab. After watching your videos I've been migrating my disparate collection of paints over to Tamiya and I have to say it's made modelling life so much nicer. You've done a beautiful job on that SD35, what a gorgeous finished result. I hope you had a happy and blessed Easter.

I have worked in a hobby shop in the states for the last 24 years and X21 is a flattening agent to be added to any Tamiya gloss paints to make them a semi gloss or a flat paint. If you let the flat clear settle out that layer of grey too off white looking stuff in the bottom is the flat base added to their gloss clear to make it a flat clear. Hopefully this helps a few people out. You will need to mess around with the mix ratios to get it right but that is what X21 is intended to be used for. Happy modeling

Great video and the loco turned out amazing!

Boomer, great video on the painting of the Locomotive. Well explained, and well shot. The tip on the decals is great, I have never had good results, I will have to try again using the correct way, instead of weathering them to non existence. The finished result is very prototypical of the photos, and touching you did. Thank you for sharing, and cheers, stay safe, Michael

Bob Ross would be proud .... Happy Little Trains 😁

Great lesson. Thanks!

Beautiful locomotive, that turned great. I painted an old Athearn bb sd40-2 into MRL 250 a few years ago. Microscale decals are my favorite. They always seem to work when properly installed.

In my pro painting days, plastic was always painted gloss or semi goss straight onto plastic. The only time primer or base coat was used, was when the painted plastic was to match the same exact colour as on wood or metal surfaces near by. ( Primed plastic will need repainting long before direct gloss on). Hope that was helpful. Great video, a pleasure to watch. Thanks Boomer.

Turned out great Boomer! 👍

Nice masking and paint job! Weathering as well! While I’m not giving up my Scalecoat II for acrylics, I am going to give your wet on wet weathering acrylics method a go. 😂

Wow! It was worth the wait to get to see this video; another superb tutorial! I've been custom painting locomotives for well nigh 30 years, and have exclusively used Scalecoat paints with outstanding results. With that company's sad final demise, I've been trying to decide where to go. You've convinced me to give Tamiya a serious look. This tutorial is one of your best. You lay out the goals, provide amazing instruction, and then give us the results. Thank you for all this informations and your effort. Can't wait for the next installment.

Thanks again for another great video.

Great video. Thank you…

Thanks Boomer - fantastic workshop!

Excellent. Thank you.

Great content, as always! The “bars” you added to the trucks, my best guess would be that they are hangers/stiffeners for the conversion from clasp(2 shoes/wheel) to single shoe per wheel brake rigging. The actuation is done through the rigging that’s more tucked inside below the bar. Though we don’t have very many old locos left, I did get to spend a fair amount of time working with them and miss that turbo 567 sound.

WOW, Great segment.

Boomer YOU are LEGEND! 🔥🔥🔥🚂🔥 Not that you ever would but if you were to sell your shelf layout now what would you sell it for?? 😂😇🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥

I need to try some of that Tamiya tape. I've always used the common "magic transparent tape" (not the crystal-clear tape) rather than any paper types. The magic tape is very thin plastic, has very-sharp edges with no paper fibers, and it cuts very cleanly with an Exacto. The only thing is that you can't leave in on the model more than a few hours or it will leave a residue. Even when I was using Floquil or Scalecoat, I'd wait only a few minutes (no more than an hour) to pull the tape. Regarding clear-coating before decaling, I've never liked to clear-coat. I find it much easier to control the precise placement of the decal over a dull paint surface than a very-slippery glossy one. On glossy paint the decal tends to "hydroplane" and float on the surface tension of the water (water tends to bead on a glossy finish). Of course, there has to be a film of water under the decal as you place it (to avoid the "silvering" or otherwise trapping tiny air pockets), but this is easy enough and even on a dull finish I have no issues. One thing I always do is to pretty-much rinse all the glue off the decal before I place it on the model. The glue isn't needed once Solvaset or Microsol is used because the decal substrate then melts onto the paint surface and it's held fast that way. If glue is left on, I've found that over time it discolors around the edges--and wherever the glue has been smeared on the model--and ruins the look. It's interesting how we all have different methods.

Big Like!

Excellent

You are right about the primer. When I started using acrylic enamels to paint brass models I was worried about it sticking. I did some tests and found that there was no difference between primed and unprimed brass. I even used a wire brush. Flat paint covers way better than gloss. I do flat color, then clear gloss, then decals, then clear satin.

Wonderful presentation! I've done "dee-cals" for many years and I STILL Learned something from you. A bit of trivia; "MC" from Microscale rfers to "MiniCal", hat is a decal set printed on a small sheet or that only covers ONE car or loco, etc. You are into Tamiya, but in reference to your use of MicroSol, I have gone to Tamiya's Mark Fit Strong, item 87135, and I'm VERY happy with that stuff. It seems a bit stronger than MicroSol, but not nearly so brutal to the decals as Walthers Solvaset.

Fantastic work. BTW I believe that plow you worked so hard on is a rock plow.

Hi Boomer , I got a little tip which I stumbled across the other day after a long modeling session . You know how you get build up of glue on the tops of the bottles and caps of CA eg (ZapGap), well I dipped a paper towel into some Isopropanol and cleaned the top of the bottle it comes straight off and use cotton wool tips to clean the little cap. Though this might be some help, yes I also have around 10 bottles of Tamiya jars , I use them if Im mixing 2 colours together also add a ball bearing into the bottle this helps when stirring then label them with masking tape and a sharpie Really enjoying vlogs on the SD35 that super detailing will look very nice when finished, Thanks Shaun

Looks amazing!!

Absolutely Beatiful Job 😍

Hope you had a good BD, and happy Easter. First, I like my locomotives to be weathered, maybe not rust buckets but well used. Because I do N scale I am ham strung on what details I can do. Mostly MU, cab shades, and fans and if the picture I am working from have something I can scratch build I will add it. I really liked the way you did your cab shades. The way you shoot your videos where you segmented the different sections on the build are great. When I am practicing your technics It allows me to go to a section rather than rewatch the whole Vlog. I can honestly say you have made me a better modeler. Thanks!!

Wow, that's a beautiful locomotive. I have always liked the blue and black scheme of Montana Rail Link.

Boomer-super fantastic video on loco painting and decaling ! Very comprehensive and detailed to lead us through all the steps to get a professional result. Had to laugh though on the pronunciation of "dekels" versus the more American pronunciation of "deecals"-just sayin'. Fine work-keep the videos coming!

It came out amazing!!! On camera, it didn’t even look like decals, they looked like you hand painted them (you probably could but got lazy, went the easy way out, LOL) I gotta try your method of decs, it truly looks great. Everything you’ve done/showed us, I’ve tried and it works (not everything, okay, maybe 6 things) but what I’ve done worked fine, your an amazing teacher but I draw the line at making bears, salmon and eagles, no way, I’m 72, my patience is thinned (to much IPA? LOL) Ron

ONE reason to use a primer is to get a uniform layer to add your color to. I Like primer. That being said, your models always come out looking great, so it certainly works well for you to skip that step! :)

Asa also scale model car builder, you tips make a lot of truth , good job......thanks

Thanks!

Happy easter my friend !! N ' so wonderfull work ! Nice job !!!

Thanks for all the great and useful advice in your content. Happy Easter to you sir! Cheers Bob

Great advice as always Boomer! HAPPY Easter!

Happy Easter...Boomer 🤙

Happy Easter, all!

Hello Boomer, about the painting job. Do you also thin the XF85 rubber black with IPA or do you apply it direct from the jar. The coverage of the white styrene is magnificent. And you are right about the Tamiya for airbrush it is for sure the best. More modelers should pay more attention on their painting job and use after the Tamiya the Vallejo acrylics thinned as washes to build up layer after layer as filters. The more patient you are the better the result will be. Cheers from the Netherlands, Modellbahn Rosenbahn Ronald

Another great tutorial, Boomer. Quick question. Handrails are often/usually a "slippery" plastic. Do you have to prep them differently prior to actual painting? Thanks.

" ✌️👍 " ...❤ 😎

Excellent video of this process. Where did you get the burnish tool you used to seal the tape? That looks like a very handy tool

Boomer, have you ever had an experience with a second or third coatings of paints wrinkle or prune? I'm not sure if you've ever covered that on any of your videos? It may be a good content subject to cover. I know there are multiple causes, and if one usually stays with the same brand and type paints, plus follow that brands recommended painting instructions, all should go well. But, for those who are newer to the subject, it may be a welcome commentary. Another great, Boomer's Production....with Dusty as Co-host. Cheers! on further down the Road! Did you ever have anything to do with that "Unstoppable" movie?

Fantastic work as always! QUESTION: Roughly, what air pressure do you run through your airbrush? I remember you mentioning something about air pressure in a previous video, but I don't remember which video it was.

SD 24 &SD35 had these trucks with three brake cylinders and on SP this were used in their later years as heavy switchers in the major yaards. My guess is that in some point while refurbished my MRL refurbished this engine, they switched or reconfigured them to what is standard on the 40- series. Still enjoying your channel and everything you post Cheers r

I thought you might like that , let me know how you went.

When cleaning the airbrush after using Tamiya clear coat products, do you use the IPA or the Tamiya airbrush cleaner?

In this you stated that you used a tube to hold the sunshade in place. What size worked best for you?

The sill, walkway that attaches to the main hood section didn't look like it was completely painted black, looked like overspray and not an even coat. Am I seeing things?

I have a pair of Atlas SD 35s that I would like to repaint. Do you suggest a strip the paint or just paint over the existing dark green?

Showing clear coats to make it clear. Pun intended? 😊

Boomer, which Tamiya colors do you mix for your Washington Corp blue?

Why do modelers in Australia and Canada insist on pronouncing decals as " deck-alls " and in the USA, we pronounce them as "dee-cals"? LOL!!!