I add a few things to 95 as I have one a very clean truck that has no rust at all and it has 210 k miles on it The automatic is pretty weak but can be up graded . 4 pinion planets and a aluminum carrier ect ect . if its stock automatic I recommend not idling very long in park and go to neutral after staring to charge the convertor , Check the cooling lines as at one point they can rub together and cause leaks and the connection on the lines can come apart and loose the fluid . I appreciate your videos . I rather have a second gen for my use as I can work on it . Now my truck has a g56 rebuilt. A Val Air twin disc with the bm shifter . Rebuilt TC . One piece aluminum drive shaft. I got the hydrobooster setting on the work table ready to install . I like the second gen because it's been a dependable truck and gets decent mileage ..the steering is also being upgraded as soon a I get some direction lol . New dash also on the work bench lol.. look forward to more videos

And in snow/salt country, rocker panels, cab corners, cab mounts and wheel wells. You could spend a ton of money on replacement body parts, unless you're doing the cutting welding and blend work. But if you do buy a truck which needs that work, as soon as it's done paint, undercoat, bed liner, whatever cover it up to make it last...like Rob did.

Great video some stuff I wouldn't have thought of off the top of my head thanks Rob another great video.

My young cousin bought a clean 95 .... he's in the process of building the engine with " higher hp" in mind... Have recommended and shared your your channel more than once...hope hes been checking your channel out...but anyway, good stuff man as always 👍👍

The same here goes for a 1st gen. I have a 91 Non/IC 2wd 3speed. It was a local truck from the state and was a single owner. The bones and engine/ tranny were un touched and in good shape which is what matters the most when putting on upgraded parts and going through components/ electrical. 5000-10000 is a good general baseline for a 1st gen. If your mechanically inclined you'll save a load of cash, and if you understand electronics a bit you'll save more there too. Just don't be afraid to phone a friend, use an online resource and do lots of research.

Rod is a great guy! Wish I was near you for my 98 12 holy grail.

In the dry climate areas, look for cracks in the body. Look under the cab where the seats are bolted, Look around the hood hinges. Also look at the rear of the cab right above the rockers, These cabs have a tendencies to crack with miles.

Had my 95 2WD sense 2001 and I wouldn’t trade it for a new one and got 306,000 reliable miles on it but had 130,000 when I bought it and think I gave like 8,000 for it then I do believe I got my money’s worth out of it. Rebuilt the trans oh 10 years ago but the right way and a DPC converter triple disc. Them trucks are great trucks like you said. It just maintaining them is key and that my friend isn’t rocket science. Lol

👍👍right on man...5,000$ to repair the VP44 and lift pump???.. it ain't that much😆😆... Maybe to p7100 swap it... Great video man 👍

He ain't lying,I got 10k in mine currently In just parts I'm doing the labor for free lol

Be sure to ask if the KDP has been done!

I’m looking at a 2001 24v long bed with 360,000 miles for $6,000 near me and it’s a farm truck. It’s completely stock except for a air filter upgrade and a straight pipe… I’m really interested in getting it because the truck isn’t rusted and the inside interior is in great shape… on top of it looking like your typical grandpa 2nd Gen look and being almost completely bone stock. I’m really thinking about picking it up since it’s impossible to find one’s still in bone stock condition for that price. I would end up keeping it forever because my dream vehicle has always been a 2nd Gen Cummins long bed.

@6:50 ... it's a miracle that dash didn't crumble into a 1,000 pieces... my 97 dash completely failed, upper, lower, & bezel..

I have a 98 12v love that truck

I’d also add if you’re buying a truck that’s not from an area that doesn’t snow inspect the very front of the frame where they dip down In the front. In my experience 2nd gens have been pretty notorious for rotting right there. Might not be a problem if the truck is a good deal or you’re handy with a welder.

I love my bone stock 95….. best truck I’ve ever had.

I would LOVE to find a decent/clean 98.5 12v quad cab long bed 2G. I would even consider trading my ccsb 4x4 rust free Florida GMC Sierra SLT3 LLY sunroof truck for it.

I have 4 2nd gens right now 01, 98, 97, 96 all are good shape, I'm in Arizona so no rust here. Spent a lot of money rebuilding all the front ends tho lol

I like your trans cooler setup. The factory ones do not work well.

Hey Rob, thanks for the detailed video. Can you recommend a shop in Calgary that specializes in the second gen platform? I know you are the man with cummins. Im meaning more about the entire truck. Replacing front end etc, doors, alighnment etc. I am looking for a shop, or, a person, who will work on these trucks (entire truck not only the engine). Cheers.

Water pump, power steering pump, front rotors and calipers, differential, all front end steering linking, catalytic converter, but so far not the starter.

Hey Dude! Nice truck I recently brought a 2000 Dodge Ram cummins cash only with 68k miles now at 71k Brought before inflation happened. It’s been a good truck to me I have a couple questions. I have a 24v vp44 I know I need to get a lift pump but I have a automatic transmission what things can I do to make it reliable so I can hold some power like 300-400 nothing crazy. And I have this little problem that plagues these autos is sometimes it gets stuck in first and was told it was that wire that goes thru the alternator I rewire that so it isn’t near it. Kinda fixed it a bit but was still doing Then I brought the db apps noise isolater and doesn’t do it all the time anymore but here and there. It’s kinda annoying do you know how to fix it completely?

Stupid question but which part of the engine is the red housing (driver side of the block) with the exhaust tube hooked up to the bottom of the part?

Hey brother I’m getting a deal on a 97 cummins regular cab with a manual transmission, it was used for work but the clutch was changed it has about 230k miles for 6000$ what do you think

What is your recommendation on fixing the front end issues?

Great Video Rob!! I have a question for, that would be of a great help to me to say the least, I have a First Gen Cummins that has 2 bolts missing from my Intake Manifold, that hold down the Injector Bracket's, do you know the size of those bolts and what would you use to replace them? Thank You Very Much!!

Did you get head o ringed or fire ringed for conpounds

You didn't go over the interior enough.. The upper dash when broken costs a few hundred dollars for a replacement, but that's the easy part. To replace that upper dash is a royal pain in the ass & on top of that you'll probably need a new bezel. But, wait.. THERE IS MORE!! The connection points along the lower dash will probably fragment and crack when you uninstall the upper if they haven't already.. & best part, nobody makes a replacement oem lower dash. Nothing like pop sickle sticks and glue holding 25+ yr old failed plastic in place, I'm sure it will hold up typical road driving and the vibration a 12valve cummins produces, the dash is a ticking time bomb..

I wish my dad was buying me a truck I have to buy myself a truck looking at a 12valve Cummins though

Hey idk if you seen my comment on your rod video but I have this engine that has Been rebuild a few Times and was wondering what the right rod organization is 2005 cummins 5.9 4943977. Sorry and thanks in advance

My grandpa has. 99 2500 with 90k miles he said would give to me for 18k. Hard question to answer but do you think it’s worth it ?

Is there anyway I can contact you for some help with a 12 valve making a knocking sound? Thank you

What type of bumper is that?

Have you had any pcm or ECM issues

94-2001?

It will take a year of truck ownership before your words stop bouncing off deaf ears and ring true. Then you will forever be known as “ Mr.Rob Nostrodomis”