Thank you very much!

There are also antique beam drills that are essentially a mobile drill press setup that you turn by hand, uses and auger bit like the one in this video. I also have seen people retrofit a power drill with an auger bit onto the antique beam drill setup.

@@mrjjman2010 They're great tools to use. I actually prefer using one over a drill. They're generically called boring machines.

thanks Sabrina

30 seconds into this video and I learned something. Tap and drag is so logical to do. All these pros on YT helping me build my projects better.😀

Sure that would work. I think you'd want some bracing, or some crazy tight joinery to keep the thing from racking around. It's fun to practice on smaller projects.

That's a Garland split head. Still made in Saco, Maine. They're great and they last forever.

The big chisel is a Barr, and the Japanese chisels are by Tasai (atsu-nomi). They're both available from different places.

you may buy them in amazon, just look for japanese chisel aogami(this is the type of steel better know as super blue)

+Warp Mode Official That's Eastern White Pine, which is often used for timber framing, but certainly not exclusively. It's easy to work, you can get fairly large pieces and it's light. But it's not terribly strong relative to other species. Other common timber framing woods are douglas fir, southern yellow pine, and red and white oak. You can timber frame with most domestic species, all with their own advantages and disadvantages.

+Brad Morse awesome thanks so much great videos keep up the great work

I think that you're correct (below). About 4.5"?

Nope. For softwoods you want a courser bit anyways.

The Woodowl and Holzmasters are nice. Augers are better, self-feed bits can stuck.

You could use a smaller drill bit to give you a little more leeway. You could use a square to help align the drill bit. Lastly, someone mentioned using a mirror. If you get a plastic mirror and drill a hole through the middle, it shows pretty clearly how square you are to the wood. Good luck!

Good questions. Riven pegs can be made. The best turned timber frame pegs are from pegs.us. Mortise would be 1.5” wide. And about 1/8” draw-bore offset in softwoods.

I believe it's either 3 or 4" deep.

We usually keep the mortise and tenon widths about 1/4 of the width of the piece. So yes, 1.5" would be fine a 6" timber. There are certainly exceptions however, as it really depends on the load on that joint.

usually are 1/3 of width of timber--a 6x6 is actually 5 1/2 by 5 1/2 so the tenon would be 113/16

You do want the depth pretty close, ideally an 1/8 - 1/4" deeper than the tenon length. I was winging it a bit in this video. You could mark the bit with a marker or piece of tape. Or use a vertical block of wood that act as a stop against the side handle of the drill. It wasn't a very deep mortise at all, so I wasn't too worried about drilling for square. But if I'm free-hand drilling with a longer bit, I'll use a combination square or the Al Borneman tool to gauge whether I'm square. With time, your eye gets better at judging things like plumb, square, parallel, etc.

I believe I got it off eBay. 1.5” bits can be hard to find. The Woodowl bits are really nice.

I'm pretty sure that's a Dewalt bit.

Wood owl

It can be hard to find large diameter auger bits, especially decent ones. I think that's a Dewalt bit. Auger bits over 1.5" are even harder to find.

Yes, we do that in scribe rule timber framing. The main disadvantage to that approach is that you have to move big heavy timbers together.

I've got a Miller's Falls boring machine as well, but most people don't have one of those kicking around. I'd rather use the MF over a drill.

You could, but you wouldn't get any drawbore on the joint. Drawboring is using the peg to essentially spring the joint tight. The wood doesn't really shrink along it's length, but it will across the width. So with green timber, the mortised piece could shrink. The drawbored peg (which will actually bend) will pull the joint tight and will help to keep it tight. It's an old school technique for both furniture and structures.

That is true about when you (or I) drill a little out of square, and it looks goofy on the other side. Especially if there are two holes near each other, like a pair of braces. But I wouldn't drill from both sides, because they could not meet up. I avoid the drilling problem by using a Mafell drill guide, but there are some less expensive options out there. It's worth noting that when I do drill from one side, I stop once the lead screw pops through on the far side. If you don't, you can get a blow out. If you're handdrilling pull up on the drill and you'll feel it stop pulling down (because there's no wood below the lead screw). Then we drop the lead screw in the little hole on the far side, and finish it.

That's very helpful, thanks.

In order not to have to measure, you could drill the hole in the mortise piece first. Then insert the tenon and use the drillbit to mark the centre of the hole, and offset from that mark in the tenon.

Exactly. Way less risky (and quicker) than measuring.

He didn't finish driving the peg through

Your eye gets pretty attuned to seeing square after cutting a few thousand mortises. When we need to check depth and squareness, we'd use a combination square.

We do sometimes, but it really depends on the length of the tenon. It's faster to split it off if the grain is fairly straight. And it's faster to rip if the grain is crazy or there's a knot.

Nope, I just grew up watching him.

I didn't see any issues. Not the sharpest work, but functional.

I would assume its all about the technique, not about the finished product for these types of videos. If you want to know how to clean up your joints for high precision, that's a different video.