One advantage of the grinder with a cutoff blade is you can cut multiple sheets at once. Say if you need to cut multiple sheets the same length. Just endo them and bam 5 or 6 cut at once. The sparks do embed themselves in the top layer of paint and the embedded sparks themselves will rust which is unsightly but they never penetrate them galvelume coating that is under the paint and this only happens when cutting sheets when they are flat at the time of cutting. I always cover the Immediate area with a old drop off sheet, plywood or even cardboard. I’ve even sprayed a little water on sheets beforehand and sparks are extinguished without doing any damage and with a grinder fitted with a 6” blade and compatible guard, super efficient.

I’m needing to cut metal roofi g and siding for a shed and this video was perfect at comparing the tool options! Great job

great vid thanks so much!

I am the third generation industrial sheeter and metal building erection guy in my family. I have been sheeting some of the largest, most cut up projects in chemical plants, refineries, NASA, government military Corps of Engineers, and nuclear facilities along with thousands of standing seam metal roofs of every profile all over the world for the last 35 years. I spent 6 years at the largest manufacturer of sheeting and metal buildings in the world - NCI. MBCI. My father and grandfather ran with all of the guys who now own the major manufacturers (All of the NCI companies, Whirlwind, Rigid, Mcelroy, etc etc) part of my job was the testing of materials for wind resistance, negative and positive pressures, various Fastener withdrawal pressures, and siliconized polyester (Standard paint on sheeting if not bare galvalume) & polyvinylidene fluoride (AKA Kynar that costs a little more but very resilient for corrosive harsh environment.) part of my job there was also writing the installation manuals for all of the through fastened panels, concealed Fastener panels, all standing seam profiles including trapezoidal such as ultradeck and double lock, Tuff Span (corrugated FRP by Enduro), light transmitting panels Etc. I say all of that just to say this. It is not good to cut the sheets With any kind of saw or a grinder. Yes they will cut them. they will also cause your material to rust out very quick, because they do not seal the cut Edge. They leave the bare steel exposed. a Nibbler for cross cuts, and double cuts for long rips, are the proper tools to use. and if you are just cutting to length and have the right dies on a hand shear you can use that. But it's uncommon and rarely necessary if you order sheets the right lengths. The nibbler and double cuts both pinch the finish over the cut edge as they cut. (So do tin snips) basically "cauterizing" the cut. It protects the cut edge. Grinders etc also create a lot of swarf that will rust a roof up in a hurry even after you sweep / blow it off. Nibblers leave a bunch of little sharp, half moon shaped pieces that will stick in your boot soles and scratch roof if you aren't careful. The best nibbler you can buy is Fein. And the best double cuts you can buy are Ketts. Oh and just FYI there are no "tin" roofs. Tin is a useful element but is pretty rare. Combined with copper it gives you bronze. Mix with lead and it's solder! But a roof hasn't been coated with tin for over a century. And was mostly used in canada.... Have a great day all

Great video! Through and easy to understand. Thanks sharing!

Great comparison of the tools selected! Would love to see an update that includes a circular saw, hand cutting shears, and a rotozip type tool. Thanks for the thoughtful analysis. Really helpful!

Back in the day, we used to put a plywood blade in a circ saw backward. It worked, but WOW! Put in your ear plugs. Something that helps with vibration when using reciprocating blades is to lay an inner tube filled with lead shot as close as you can to the cut line. It absorbs a lot of the vibration. But nibblers are awesome.

With practice the nibbler get easier to use. I have the 18v Makita and love it Good video.

Need to invent a shear that cuts angles. Going Gonna work on that.

The nibbler has an advantage not mentioned over all the other tools, it has a shearing action which means when you cut galvanized sheets it will roll the galvanizing over the cut edge, this prevents rust.

Just purchased the Metabo HPT/HIKOKI Cordless 18v nibbler. Actually had an extremely hard time finding one anywhere in stock. Ended up purchasing through amazon. Running it with my Multivolt batteries. Amazing how well it works for applying tin roofing. All the cuts are fantastic!

excellent . good video . thank you

Great information. Thanks. 😁

Nice demonstration. One method that has worked well for me is to to use a 12" metal shear that you can find on harbor freight. I did have some concerns about it distorting the corrugations, but for the thin gauge of metal I was working with it hardly distorted. It probably would cause some distortion in the thicker sheets used in this video.

Very nice indeed. It's also nice to have. Unless your trade is mainly cutting sheet metal. Otherwise the other jack of most trade tools are just fine.

Great video

Interesting comparison vid but, at the danger of repeating earlier comments that I haven't got to, why weren't single cut shears included for the straight cuts? Once you acquire the rolling action to keep the blades engaged I find they are the quickest, quietest and easiest too to use to cut a straight line. Dedicated nibbler tools are easily the best for openings of almost any size and if you don't rush they don't tear or distort. For roofing or final finish work anything that creates a spark should be avoided. The sparks will fuse to almost every surface and quickly turn to rust. They're welded to the surface and can't be wiped or blown off. The specks of rust will penetrate the sheet coating and spread. If a cut edge is going to be visible then a shear cut is the best option but takes some practice to get used to the blade offset. Most sheet cuts will be hidden under flashing but raggedy edges look shit and are capable of ruining a good pair of gloves. Without wanting to sound like a smartarse, best way is to take the time to work out sheets at their longest length and pay the cut charge to have them cut to length. Saves more time than it takes. In summary, shears, practice and proper estimation until, your and expert, and definitely no sparks! Cheers.

The nibbler makes the cleanest cut with the least amount of heat and distortion. But what nibblers need for a laser straight cut is some kind of fence/guide. The nibbler by itself, operated by hand/eye coordination requires too much time for adequate concentration and still only produces fairly straight cuts at best. I highly value accuracy and in this day and age there should be an 'entry level' priced tool for average joes that makes a simple, straight accurate cut on corrugated panels without a lot of fuss and set up just like there is for wood with track saws and table saws. The very best cut is a brake style shear with dies that match the corrugated profile, prohibitively expensive for DIYers and impractical for the field and/or home garage.

Loves that nibbler! All roads lead back to the nibbler

Of course the further away from the edge of the table, the more shaking.

All those tools and I use a Milwaukee 18v circular saw with a metal blade . Cut 8 to 10 sheet thick corrugated no problem . After that snips and a nibbler is all you need for details . Commercial and highrise sheet metal worker here

Great video just curious on your thoughts on a circular Saw much faster and cleaner cuts

I use a Milwaukee cordless circular cold saw and have converted other roofers to using it too. Mainly on 5V and other profiles corrugated just isn't used much in residential construction. Nibblers are great for cutouts and vent stacks

Heavy gauge corrugation panels are not a demanding test. The lighter gauges pretty standard in standing seam panels are a much better trial. Also it should be pointed out that any swarf or grinding dust is a detriment as it will land on the surface of the panels and cause rust in a few days. That rust will eat down through most any coating and attack the base metal as well. Not only that but it gets under the platen of the saw and is ground into the panel as you make the cut. Not good at all. Shears and nibblers are the best cut but most are challenged by the angles present in seamless panels and standing seam systems. In the early nineties the old Black and Decker (remember when they actually made tools and were not just a "name" sold in the market place?) made a cheap (green) homeowners model that used two opposing circular roller cutters of about an inch in diameter. These left a neat straight edge and they rode up and down over most any profile with no problems. Amazingly they were taken off the market in short order and never sold again by any manufacturer. Of course it was corded but it left no swarf or chips, was quiet and easy to control and better still very cheap to buy while still lasting a good long while with replaceable cutting wheels that lasted through several roofing jobs. It also had the advantage that it did not deform the cut edge. The body of it resembled their jig saw of the time. They went away in the last stages of the B&D where they dropped the cheaper lines they made (the orange, green, and shiny black) in favor of the expensive Professional line. Another caution is that the half moon waste that nibblers leave quickly gets caught on the boot soles and further scratches and damages the panels in place as they are walked on. It would certainly be great to find a solution as good or better than that old B&D but so far I haven't seen it. They would be better served to make a model that cut as well before worrying about making it cordless!!

Hi, can it cut 16 gauge stainless steel or do you have anything similar? Thank you.

I would love to know whatyou wuld use for cutting 14mm aluminum diamond plate sheeting,common at Lowes/Home Depot.

I like the cutting wheel - the sparks but seemed best

What about the various nibbler-type attachments for cordless drills? Not everyone can afford an expensive dedicated tool for cutting corrugated or ribbed sheet metal.

Nibbler is my favourite I wish I could add it with my tools

If you are into metal sheet cutting daily, Trumpf is your best bet

What if you are cutting 3mm aluminum sheet, what should be used?

I use a nibbler ...quick..easy to use

What about differences in noise?

What kind nibble i need for cut shéet metal 26gauge?

A Diablo Steel Demon Cermet II Carbide Ferrous Metal in a circular saw blade would be a great option for straight cuts when you don't need to worry about the loss of metal protection (paint/galvanizing) at the cut location. You could even use a straight edge or track saw guide for excellent results. Nibblers are great for non-straight cuts on so many materials (metal, vinyl siding and others). For straight cuts you could use a fence to guide the nibbler.

Nice comparison. As much as I would love to have one of the nibblers, they are very expensive ($1200)!

I like the Nibbler, but let's be fair the farther away from the bench will cause vibration make for a harder cut. The closer you are to the bench will reduce vibration making for an easier cut. I would like to see the Nibbler go first while it's further away from the bench. I noticed a cut in the video just before the Nibbler was to show what it can do on the second round. Hmmm...

As sheet metal worker for 40 years, the sawsall works best for me out those you have there. But I use the tip of the blade, I don't even have the guild on mine (most sheet metal workers don't.) I do like the nibbler in the shop, not in the field.

... for 10 Sterling pounds I bought a nibble which I can put in to combi drill and to cut I upsides down to see the marking line.

Great 👍..

How about mentioning the cost of the cutting blade on the nibbler and how long they last before replacing

Metabo HPT makes a great cordless and corded nibbler

What gauge is the metal in this test video?

Que marca es esa azul? Y quien la vende?

I recently watched another video in which a roofer recommended AGAINST using a grinder with a metal-cutting wheel on it, because it overheats painted roofing and causes it to rust within 3/4" of the cut edge, after a year or so. FYI.

What grease are you putting in the nibble gearbox? I have an old n801 trumpf and it's a bear but the directional on maintenance aren't great. It recommends old discontinued grease

i can see allot of broken jig saw blades when going thru the valleys; 3" hi overhand. . how about a cut off saw ?

The more sparks and metal filings that you generate will add to the rust formation on the metal sheets

Look at the unified undisputed champion of the world in metal cutting watching from the top shelf second from left.

Nibbler,s are far the best and safest .tried everywhere tool on the market.

If the sheet is treated you have to go nibbler as the ends will rust if you use the other machines

Make sure you clean up the nibbler shavings because they can get easily embedded into shoes and air hoses, my air hose has a minor leak from a shaving that punctured the hose after my son did not clean up his mess.

I use 7.25" circular saw with abrasive blade. It skims right over ridges and valleys with ease

I miss the Milwaukee M18 FCMS Steel Cutter

I prefer a dual saw. It cuts fast and accurately

Gotta say…out of these tools, only the grinder can start a cut mid sheet. The jigsaw could if a starter hole is drilled of course..but then you are into two tools and more time (plus the hole is wide which could ruin the perfect edge look!). However, the grinder sparks could be an issue around flammables.

Very nice demonstration indeed, thank you very much! However, I knew upfront which the best-performing or preferred tool would be. "Horses for courses" , the saying goes. A nibbler is specifically designed for sheet metal. Try the reverse, use a nibbler to cut timber framing or dry wall, cut tubular steel or plywood. Ain't working at all. 🤗 All good, appreciate the effort you've made. I wonder how a plasma cutter would do? Hard to use in the 'field', and haven't got one anyway. Has a viewer tried that?

The grinder cut looked like a disaster with all the sparks. The other methods appeared to cut equally well and would seem fine to cut simple aluminum siding. I wonder how one of those TV Rotozip saws compares. It does look like you're trying to sell those nibblers. Are you sponsored?

The grinder is pretty good tool overall but you have to think about heat damage with it. For some materials (e.g. metal with plastic-like coating) get damaged near the cut if you use the grinder.

I've always used a circular saw with an old blade installed backwards. Always worked great.

What blade did you use on the saw saw

Plasma cutter. Fast, easy to use, reasonably quiet.

The heat from the grinder will ruin the paint and make it rust. Or have I heard wrong.

Firming up material clampdown would mitigate tool vibration.

I use a metal cutting circular saw. Ten times faster and better control. I've also used regular circular saws with a plywood blade installed backwards with pretty good results.

I really missed the SCM by Hilti or any other type of circular saw.. they are SO different then a angle grinder. No sparks and clean cuts!

no ez way and my valleys are deeper on my old tin. replacements not longe available to must cut up 20 pcs to make my roof longer; enabling proper guttering.

im always cutting these steel sheets - a grinder for me with a 1mm blade, everytime

Unless you're going to use the nibbler often I would say use any of the other ones anyone you can get the most use out of if you're going to buy a new tool

The old classic way to cut metal roofing is with a cane knife. That's a wide blade machete used for cutting sugarcane. Put a metal peg in one corner of the blade, sandwich the knife between two 2x4s and work it like a can opener.. No sparks. No expensive power tools and fast. Rick

Nibler and grinder works Best.

I typically use a circular saw with Linux metal Max

would be different if supported on both sides.

Never cut colourbond with a angle grinder it cooks the paint. If you have to cut It 10mm long and trim with tin snips.

Price?

Dang if I could get a jigsaw to work that nice I'd be thrilled.

The further the metal was from the C clamps the more chatter vibrations all tools should have had the same distance, where are the guide lines for your last tests ?

I go the other direction with the grinder.

I clamp a 2x4 and use a circular saw

The plastic on the jigsaw base gets metal shavings lodged in it and it scratches wooden surfaces.

I have a nibbler, it virtually never gets used. There are several issues: 1, Quite difficult to steer; 2, Difficult to make sharp profile transitions (- the 'throat' of the cut is only so big); 3, Relatively noisy; 4, But the worst item, is the thousands of half-moon shaped razor-sharp shrapnel pieces that gets sprayed everywhere. These are WAYYY worse than some grinding sparks, that stop being a problem as soon as the cut is finished. Pretty much the only time it's used, is for cutting entire holes, as per the last demo in this video.

$1,100 for the Trumpf!!! I'll stick with my Hitachi corded nibbler $400. After all, we make our cuts on the ground or at a work station where we have power.

The only bad thing about the nibbler it has just one purpose. Most of us like to use one tool for many things not just one thing .

Where was the cordless bandsaw ?

We don't have that brand in Australa Yet.

"lots of sparks" and now a chunk of those sparks are in your lungs. PPE!

Trumpf cordless nibbler: $950 Other cordless nibblers: $350- $500 Cordless grinder: $100-$300 He didn't discuss prices, but the nibbler he is using is for professionals who use it all the time, and there are other brands of nibblers at a fraction of the price. If you're a home gamer it probably doesn't make sense to spend $950 on a tool, especially if you already have a grinder.

If that was 29 gauge steel I think you would have a lot more trouble with some of those tools.

You just turn your circular saw blade backwards works really well

Where’s the metal cutting circular saw?

Circular saw + carbide blade + straight edge guide...zip zap zam ! Steel or aluminum...doesn’t matter.

Seemed like it was a paid “review” of the nibbler. And as others have said, the further away from stability (clamps) the more it’ll vibrate and move, as it did for the other tools. I thought there was a lot more metal cut away with the nibbler, although it was nice and clean. I think the others if done straight and properly would have given a good result and not go off the line. I only watched the first part, pretty easy to see what this is about. 🤷🏻‍♀️

A mini-grinder with a diamond blade works fine, Drag is through the material, don't push.

Surprised you didn't time the cuts

I checked the price on the nibbler and swallowed my snuff.

If anyone cuts your roof sheets with a grinder send them home....great way to ruin them.

Never cut galvanize with a grinder...it WILL rust once water touches it!!! The jig saw and nibbler seems to be the best options

A power can opener

If you had cut from the other direction with the grinder you wouldnt have had sparks flying up and to the front and instead down and behind the tool

I notice that you are making substantial cuts in galvanized material with a grinder but no protection from fumes. I just bought my first grinder and saw somewhere that the fumes created using it on galvanized are seriously toxic. I am asking just for your personal thoughts and not expert opinion. Maybe I should view what you were doing as minimal and relax a bit. Maybe what I saw was warning against much longer exposures. Thanks. (Happy to hear from anyone.)