over the years you have done several pristine conversions for me as well as other gunsmithing, "Kirst" is the only place allowed to ever touch my guns!

Did this to my 1860 Army snubbie. Works and looks great. Just take your time.

I did both my '51 and '60, and both turned out great. I left the loading levers on both revolvers, as I like to shoot cap and ball as well. Very happy with the Kirst kits.👍

Love my 1858 45 ACP. Walt called me back helped me fit my gated cylinder perfect. Thanks Walt. Bill hows Walt doing. It was few years back when he helped me.

Like the others in the series, great detail and instruction in this video

wow,I just found this channel.i have 15 cap and ball revolvers that I'd like to convert.

If a gunsmith messes with just the pietta BP revolver. It still won’t count as a fire arm correct? It’s not until you put in the conversion cylinder and it takes modern ammo?

Can the percussion cylinder be replaced and used in this conversion? If this conversion is done to a revolver which is cut for a shoulder stock and you have the shoulder stock along with a solely percussion revolver, are there any legal problems to contend with, such as "Constructive Possession", requiring the NFA tax stamp/registration of the converted revolver, just so they can be in proximity to each other?

Will this modification effect the cap and ball cylinder if you decide to convert back to that?

I remember saving up to buy my 1858 Piata that I bought for $100 a Kirst converter in 45 Colt with the gate. I did my research and decided that this company made a better product of the few companies out there doing this so after biting the bullet to say I spent the extravagant $500 for the cylinder which already was a huge purchase for me especially for what you get in return. Well unfortunately whoever this company had processing their transactions immediately stole my debit information and spent every penny I had which happened to be about $5,500. After fighting with I believe it was US Bank who I had a checking account with that the time for 9 months they refused to reimburse me for the stolen property despite the fact I lived in Seattle and the purchases were made in Florida. I threw that pistol and that cylinder in the drawer it's been 5 years and to this day every time I pick up that pistol I want to smash it into the ground

Roughly speaking, how much time does the "machining" take to accomplish?

Conical burr tool might get down on them metal better than sanding it all away.

You could also just buy an 1873 SAA clone. It would be much cheaper and much more accurate. Then you could save cap and ball for the incoming zombie apocalypse.

You should really keep your thumb away from that blue button if you like being able to unscrew the chuck on your Dremel. You keep hitting it while the spindel's under load and I keep hearing the chuck pin grinding away.