Glad I could help!

The song birds must make Baily sleepy. lol

Things like that are the difference between working and working nice. :-)

It is a chunck to pick up! I would guess 600lb assembled.

Baily likes a smooth ride. He can't sleep if the truck is shaking too bad. LOL

He's waiting for the proof in the pudding.

I'll trade my first gen for Bailey

You might have to take the hub and drum to someone with a lathe and have them true them up.

@@bcbloc02 I think you are correct, I’m ashamed my lathe isn’t working (motor is off and it’s all covered in gooey fluid film), I just trying to find a permanent place to setup shop. Thanks for your valued advice.

If there is not food or petting involved Baily lacks enthusiasm. A lot of problems can be fixed with a bigger hammer. :-)

I assume you mean a rolling torque value as you sure don't want to torque the nut against the bearings. The bearings have to run with clearance so the oil can get between them if you tighten the nut against the bearings then there is no clearance and they will overheat and fail when loaded.

Absolutely- when I did this last was with the axle out so we could spin the hub. As I recall the Dana specs on the 70U are 120-140 ft/lbs then back off 1/3 turn. Mind you, it may be different on the 71- I would think it would be close to that however. I don't think the hubs are too different versus the Ford version.

Glad it was helpful!

ElderlyIron glad it helped! I added key words to the tags so maybe that will help people find the video and the help. If you are on any forums you can share it there too and that helps more than anything.

I just swapped the drum like you would any other, but when I went to adjust the brakes, I could see the drum was off center. I measured it and it was .060 out! Took it to the parts place to put it on the lathe and found the root cause. 3 seasoned mechanics standing there wondering how (or WHY) this could be! I'll most likely make a video and give you the credit and add a link to your video. Is this procedure in the service manual?

ElderlyIron it is not listed anywhere in the service book as the original factory drums had a machined pilot that matched the hub, then they were machined as an assembly. This only worked at the factory though where they could hold those matched tolerances. The aftermarket stuff had to be made much looser so it would always fit. The result was the slop you encountered.

Good to know. Certainly didn't make sense the way it is.

Had no idea a full float spindle type had to or could be adjusted in that way. I guess I found a new use for my indicator and base. Thank you

I want every thing dialed in for the upcoming trip to get the 20000lb+ drill.

Should be able to cruise 70mph at 1800rpm will be nice. Governed speed should be about 115 after the swap so probably not land speed ready. lol

The roads might readjust the centering of your wheels but won't do much for the drums since they hang from the hubs. Our roads are plenty rough here too. We pay lots of taxes for roads but they seem to get reappropriated for pet projects instead.

I painted my drop deck trailer with blitz black years ago and it has held up very well. For the money it is hard to beat!

They better get oil! I always jack up one side at a time after filling the diff to be sure they get a good dose of lube before driving.

Thanks!! You know it and we appreciate you showin' it...Thanks!

Good to know. When I pulled my axle out there was some oil in the hub (though not in the drums) wasn't sure if that was right or not. So oil mixing in with the packed bearings is ok? (this is my first full floating diff - so I'm still learning)

The Timken bearings were US but their seals are Taiwan. All the Bendix stuff was China except the brake springs. It is really hard to find any parts that are US made anymore. The Delco stuff was about 50-50 US and China.

I felt the pinion and it feels ok, I will give it a check out when I have the cover off to clean everything in there before adding new oil. Backlash felt good so it is likely ok since that is usually the 1st thing to go south.

I used to do that but found getting the proper bearing setting difficult as the grease held clearance the oil would not.

these aren't to be greased, they are lubed by the differential fluid... do NOT grease these bearings

Brackets are already drilled and mounted to the truck. :-) I wanted to do the axle swap before finishing the install though so I didn't have to do it twice.

Right on!

Not on any Dana axles I have seen. I think they all were setup to rely upon the drum brake self energizing action where the force of braking from the 1st pad adds to the rear pad.

Well they have been about 40000miles now like that so I guess I can fix it in another 40K when it will likely need some new shoes.

1. That is a Noga arm. They come from Israel and are nice single point adjustment indicator stands. 2. The only seals are on the inside of the wheel hubs. The outsides are sealed with a gasket where the full floating axles bolt up to the hubs.

2-9/16

There probably are disk conversions, the drums work well enough for me though and the drum shoes last a lot more miles than disks.

They won't just slide off but with the low strength a few taps with the hammer and they come off. Of course that messes the seal up but it is unlikely I would have the wheel hub off to that point and not be putting in seals.

@@bcbloc02 Makes sense. Thank you for the reply... I appreciate the help. 👍

John Deere Blitz black paint. We sell a bunch of it to the hot rodders to paint their rat rods with. It is very high quality and tough paint for about half the price of regular automotive paints.

in the UK they specifically make a black paint for this kind of thing, called 'chassis black' it tends to be a bit tougher than regular paint

They use the blitz black paint to paint disk gangs so it is made to take impacts and be tough too.

Sounds like some every though paint! Thanks Brian! :-)

The earlier Dana 70s with the studs for the axle flange do have cones around the studs. Usually a little heat from a torch will get them to release if they are stuck. A lot of times excess silicone fouls them up and once you burn the silicone off they will come loose.

Centering the coined wheels is certainly a challenge. I prefer hub centric to stud centric but it is what it is. I have considered machining a pilot to add to center the wheels but with using acorn nuts to line the wheels up getting them centered isn't a terrible job just takes another step.

They managed to stop it when I hauled the drill so I guess they are doing ok. :-)

Thanks good vidios keep it up

No they aren’t the same parts

We sell it at the Deere dealership I work at so I get it for cost. :-) Try your local John Deere dealer. I really like it for rust protection I use it to spray all my machine ways that might have sweating and rusting issues. The Lanolin won't bother your skin either. :-)

ronald davis Look on amazon that's where I got my cans decent price too

It takes a special thin wall rounded corner 2-9/16 socket a standard chrome won't fit in the hub.

Perfect tools for the big grey shop!

In my 20's I only saw cop cars in my rear view.:-0

I had M.P.'s to deal with then and I've got one of the old metal anti-seize cans. At least 20+ years. Just like Brylcreem.

I bet you tore the rear view mirror off.... "What isa behinda me, doesa notta madder" - Cannonball run for those younger folks :)

Like the old song said 'You might outrun my old Chevrolet but you won't outrun my old 2-way'.

Yes only right and left cables on dana 70 dodge dually doesn't matter. There is an intermediate cable that changes depending on wheelbase. I used Wagner cables on mine.

Thanks i bought a right cable on amazon ac delco. And it was to long so im going to return and get a wagner

If everything comes apart good I would say it could reasonably be done in 4 hours if someone has basic mechanical knowledge.

i would try a helicoil insert first.

@@bcbloc02 i went ahead and welded the studs to the front of the hub since the hubs are for coined rims and I'm switching to non-coined rims. I tested them with a lug and washer before installing the hub back on the wheel. Just waiting on one more brake hose to bleed the brakes, and then put the wheels back on. Wish me luck.

Not likely. Especially since I just did the front end rebuild and especially since finding a Dana61 dually axle with 3.07's would be really hard to find.

Just the wheel studs hold the drum on the hub. Drive the studs out and it comes right off.

Manufactures have conned the public into thinking disk brakes provide better braking power. They are cheaper to manufacture and install on the assembly line. Weigh less which is only a pro to the manufacture to improve MPG numbers. They generally require less maintenance, but they do not provide better braking power. Self energizing drum brakes are every efficient brake technology. There is a reason semi's run them. There is a reason the service brake on disk brake equipped vehicles are drums.

Disks big advantage is in fade resistance. I don't have a lot of mountains here so I don't ever see situations where brake fade occurs. Drums offer superior wear life and is why they still dominate the semi truck market. In order to get similar stopping power to the big drums you need bigger wheels to fit the big calipers or you have to mount multiple calipers to get enough friction area. It is all a trade off. When the brakes are right they work well as is.

Where I live there are quite a few hills and steep inclines just forgot where you live. I was going down one hauling a fair sized load I got brake fade not a nice feeling.

Y Pop You'll want to learn how to do brake jabbing on downgrades. If your safe base control speed is 45mph, let the rig speed up to 50 with no brakes then jab the brakes aggressively for no more than 5 seconds to get the speed back to 45 then repeat the cycle. Don't ever ride the brakes for long stretches to maintain speed. That's when the heat builds and fade takes over. If it takes longer than a five second jab to get back to 45 then 45 is too fast for a base speed. Try it at 40 & jab at 45 or 35 & 40. Until the jabs are less than 5 seconds. The key is starting out in control. Most people go like crazy then try to over react when things get out of control. To be fair, unless you go through truck driving school or have a knowledgeable teacher in your life, these advanced skills are not taught when getting a base drivers license even though that's all that is required to drive some pretty heavy and large cube trucks. What are some of the most dangerous people on the road? People driving moving trucks. Usually their first time with that much weight and that large of rig.

Thank You Wish I knew that 30 years ago! They changed the grade and took out the stop light at the bottom of the grade too so not as bad now! Just a one time thing moving a machine on a trailer did stop for the light though!

.003” end clearance

Rock auto

.003” end play on inner nut then locked tight with outer nut.80 ftlb

@@bcbloc02 aye aye sir !!! Tomorrow will be the fixing day. Thanks a lot.. 🤙🤙🤙

As long as the bearings are in full contact it shouldn't hurt them. i figure the pounding the road gives them is a lot worse than anything I can do with a hammer.

Hey thank you so much for taking the time to answer my question! I like your work style and your attention to detail. Your videos are very helpful! Much appreciated!

I can lock the wheels up with the existing brakes so I don’t see anything to be gained changing them.

@@bcbloc02 Thanks Brian, that makes sense. Sometimes a guy watches too many of the wrong Utube videos, I have drums on my 93 dodge diesel.

There are many different configurations of Dana 70 axles. Assuming no one has lost the tag there is a build of materials number on a tag under one of the cover bolts. You can use that to see what parts an axle was built from

Yes. That is the reason you fill the diff then jack up each side individually about a foot so it can fill the hubs with oil

@@bcbloc02 okay just checking to make sure what I was told was correct because what I saw in this video was that he packed his bearings.. it looked like it

Gear oil is the lubricant in a full float. You don't need to grease it. You just put it together fill the diff, jack up one side as high as you can let it sit so the oil can fill the hubs then let down level, top up oil, jack up the other side let it sit then let down level and top off again. I believe I went over that in the video but can't remember now as it was long ago.

bcbloc02 Perfect answer! Thank you very much. I also saw when you tightened the wheel bearing center nut, but you didn’t talk about any tightening torque. Also here, I hear different stories. Just tighten up ‘til the play is gone and then good to go?

ISABELLAKLINIKEN Should be tighten till snug then back off at least one tab on new bearings, maybe more on old bearings. The hub should have end play of about .001-.003" to allow oil clerance between the bearings. If you run them tight they will overheat and fail.

bcbloc02 Thanks. Back off at least one tab you say. How much does this mean? Tab is a word I honestly never heard (Swedish guy). It’s really difficult to feel, or know when it’s correct since the drum is spinning with a great ease even if the nut is tightened really hard. Thanks again for your answers.

ISABELLAKLINIKEN I was referring to the points(tabs) on the star like locking device that keeps the nut from backing off. Use dial indicator on axle spindle to hub and adjust till you can pull/push it in and out and read .001--.003" of movement.

It does really add flavor. :-)

900mi trip pulling 30,000lb for 450 of it and I would prefer everything went smooth.

He sleeps 20hr a day I don't know how he could get much more! lol

Humor son, humor.

Jim Harris yeah poor bailey looked tired

Naps in between.

He just has that southern look, laid back. It's all good.

Your problem is the bearing retaining compound won't let the bearing slide on the shaft, you will have to heat the bearing inner race a few hundred degrees to loosen the compound before you can remove it then you can pull the seal off. The seal will likely not be any good anymore so better replace it and depending on how much beating on it you did to get the drum off you may want to replace the bearing too, a few bucks spent now could save tons in the future. Never put loctite or retaining compound on anything until you are ready to not be moving, adjusting or taking apart again.

Thanks will do never use the lock tight till I see that on the channel I'll have to heat it up and pull it off thanks

Have used the lock tight just never on an axle shaft well yet again I've never had a Dolly thanks

Use low strength threadlocker on a bearing you might want to take off again, bearing retaining compound really holds tight if that is what you used.

Yeah I know the thick shoe goes to the rear I was just commenting that if you didn't know that not having them labeled would be problematic since even if you knew that part you still have to decide which pair goes on what side since they are mirror images.Lucky for me I have done plenty of this stuff so no problems here. :-)

For anyone that doesn't know, the LENGTH of the friction material is what dictates which shoe goes where. The shortest length goes forward, the longest goes in rear position.

It has been a few years, but I'm 99% sure that on my GM 14 bolt axle both shoes were exactly the same. Although, I do know for a fact that when you get into bigger air brake stuff that both shoes are exactly the same for the majority of applications but there are special instances.

Next time check the run out on a set you likely will be surprised. Of course the smaller the stuff the less it matters a 10lb drum won't cause near the vibration a 50lb one will.

bcbloc02 If possible, it's best to always run a true up cut in the drum or rotor even if they are new, for this very reason of runout. Any time the bearing race's are replaced they will also be out of concentrisity some. We always ran a tru up cut but it does make it easier having a brake lathe.

This drill deal has altered the schedule by making other projects take priority over the barn. I hope to be able to get back on it soon. The fact we had somebody quit at work and I am working extra hours to cover hasn't helped with getting things done.

I agree! Wish I had rebuilt one. :-) I know one thing for sure having tools in 2 shops sucks, you never have what you need at the right place!

I probably will have to take him for a ride to get something to eat to achieve full forgiveness.

With the new rear end installed and a hi-$$$ place. A fast food deal won't cut it. Not this time. Concrete pouring weather coming shortly!!!

My email is listed on my about page here but it is also simply my user name at yahoo dot com. I try not to put it in the comments section as bots tend to pick it up form there and I get a bunch of spam. If that doesn't work for ya send me a message here and i will send you my email.

Did you send an email? If so I haven't seen it.

Central Kentucky

bcbloc02 Too bad, man. I'm down in TX. It's so hard to find someone with the technical skills, mind, and care to do something well.

Well its the reverse of how it went together. You have to pull the axles, remove the locking tab for the bearing retaining nut, then take the bearing retaining nut loose and slide the hub/drum assembly off with the bearings in it.

If you are talking about brake spring pliers I didn’t use any. If you rewatch you will see I hooked the springs to the shoes then pulled the shoe on to stretch the spring. I find it easier to have to fuss with getting the washer on the retaining spring and pin than to try to get that spring hooked back in behind everything.

Sorry my PC meter has long been busted if I need to I can switch it to Boss and Bit%h. Maybe that will help with sensitivity. :-)

thats a good one

Political correctness is just "left wing" censorship. Has anyone noticed that most people complaining are not offended themselves but are afraid that someone else might be. I say "Fcuk 'em".

Both ends were jacked up on installation to allow the hubs to fill with gear oil. It has been 40k miles and hauled several loAds of 30000lbs plus gross so I think I did ok.