Thanks for taking the time to comment Jason, glad to hear the videos have been helping you. :)

Thanks mate, glad the channel has been helpful. :)

Thanks mate, glad to hear the sea horse is still running. :)

Thanks Michael, you're most welcome. Glad the videos have been helping you. :)

Dangar Marine I will be rewiring my tinnie shortly. And like the techniques you have used and will do something similar. My question is how do i determine what guage wire to use throught. eg. battery to terminal block to fuse block instruments / switches ? Ps. well done on your videos very interesting and informative.

CHRIS C the gauge wire is directly linked to the amps you have as he said in the previous video 12 gauge wire and 20amp fuse ie if you’re only using 15 amps you could go down to 14 gauge but have heavier wire is ok but lighter wire than the amps of the circuit is bad

Thanks Fletcher, glad you are enjoying the videos and I hope they have been helping you with your boat. :)

You're welcome, and thanks for the tip. I should add a link to the table in this vid.

Nice work on getting it fixed up. Sounds like you've got a great motor at a great price. Happy boating! :)

Thanks mate, it's glad to hear you've been enjoying the videos. It's comments like this that give creators the motivation to keep on going. :) Conversely, I've been looking at buying a sail boat at the moment so there will be a few videos on that in the future too!

Stu, the difference between a power boat and a sail boat is that a power boat is a hole in the water you throw $50 bills into, a sail boat is hole in the water you throw $100 notes into! :-)

Thanks mate, good luck with the rebuild!

You're welcome Peter, glad the video helped you. :)

Thanks mate, glad it was helpful.

Thanks Lorne, glad the video helped you.

Thank Adam, glad you found the video helpful. :)

Thanks Randy, great to hear. :)

Thanks mate, glad you liked the video. My neighbours are Uruguayan, lovely people. :)

You're welcome Daniel. :)

Thanks, will do!

Thanks Andy. On water test coming soon! :)

You're welcome Bill.

You're welcome George, good luck with finishing off your wiring. Be sure to say hello if you spot the Green Machine!

Thanks Brandon, you're most welcome. :)

Thanks mate. :)

You're welcome mate, thanks for watching!

Thanks Marko, heat shrink is great stuff for doing wiring. Most electrical stores will carry it for sure.

Thanks mate.

Thanks John, glad you like the vids.

Hey Dan, glad you like the vids. :) I've heard you shouldn't use solder under hood of cars for very similar reasons, but I find that corrosion is such a big problem in boats that live in salt water all the time that soldering is almost essential. Good point about doing a combination crimp/ solder connection though. I do think it is optimal to fuse every circuit, but that terminal block purely supplies my low current devices. The docking lights (video coming soon!) are fused separately as is the bilge pump. I'd be very surprised if anything would get hot enough to melt before that 10 amp fuse blew. I do appreciate the advice though and probably should have sprung the extra cash for one of those fuse holder terminal blocks. Oh well, maybe it can be an upgrade down the track. The next thing I want to add is a separate block for ignition on power. At the moment I don't have any way of lighting up the dials while the engine is running.

@@DangarMarine Did you ever wire up the separate ignition block? I could use some of that info. I'm rewiring a bayliner with a '86 force 125. I have come across a road block with the magneto wires (2) with only one M on the new key switch and with powering accessories when key in 'on' position only.

Hey mate, I got those from a boating chandlery like Whitworths www.whitworths.com.au/search?q=terminal+block

Hey James, adding fuses is a good idea, if anything goes wrong you don't want a fire one board.

Yeah, I hear you on that one.....I am taking my engine out of the boat today. Just taking a break, I needed an extension for my socket.

Thanks Jon. They are Blundstone boots www.blundstone.com.au/work-boots/elastic-sided-series

Hi Benny, ideally you don't want both outboards simultaneously charging the one battery for any length of time. This can happen briefly if one of your batteries is flat and you are starting both motors off it though. The best situation is to have two batteries and two switches allowing you to run either motor off either batteries, but then have each motor charge their own battery separately. Must do a video on this one day!

Thanks Keon. Yeah, it is a nice feeling seeing everything soldered up and tucked away. I feel this wiring is really going to last a while without failure. Yep, getting close now, just waiting on the seats. :)

Chafe points are definitely something to be very careful with.

Dangar Marine Compliance 🙏🏼😉✨🦘

Hi mate, I'm trying to think back, but I would have expected the stern light to also get it's power from that terminal block in the front. Sometimes when a device is at the back you can get power straight from the battery to avoid running wire all the way to the front and then back again, but if the switch is at the front (as it is with that light) I would have thought it would go to the terminal block. I'll take a look on the way home and get back to you.

I think he did run the switch from the terminal blocks. The wires from the back light just go up to the switch and the ground terminal block, then the switch gets its power from the positive terminal block to complete the circuit when the switch is turned on.

Yes, I would cut the power to the starter too.

Yes.

Most battery switches will double as an isolator with settings for 1, 2, 1&2, and off. If not, I would but the isolator between the battery switch and the rest of the boat's wiring.

my battery switch does have settings for 1,2,1&2 and off, therefore I do not need an isolator? I can just manually switch from 1 to 2 to save my alternator. When do you ever put the setting to 1&2? Thanks for your quick response

This colour code table might help. www.maxrules.com/fixmercwiringcodes.html Otherwise the service manual for that outboard might be available online somewhere.

Thanks heaps mate

Good question, sometimes LEDs do have driver circuits that limit voltage and current flow so they don't blow, but I've never installed one so I'm not that familiar with with them. A Google search for LED driver circuit might help, but somebody also mentioned a specific one in the comments my latest video on making underwater lights.

Hi mate. Yes, you will need to move one side of the bracket away in order to get enough room to remove to the lower pin on the hydraulics. This video covers that job, but I think I only show putting in back, not taking it out from memory: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pJaHprF43q3QhmQ.html

For most of our general wiring we use 18 gauge.

Thank you for the help it is greatly appreciated. The wiring under my console looks like a bad hair day :-) and I plan to redo it all.

We sell a few things on our site www.dangarmarine.com.au, but we get them from a variety of places such as bla.com.au and jaycar.com.au

Paul Zivcic : doesn’t seem like a good situation to me either and is possibly resulting from an amateur’s approach. I can imagine a really serious electrolysis problem at some stage resulting in an irreparable boat hull. Perhaps best to get some professional confirmation on this.

@@ianmac86 the boat is over 30 years old...I've stripped it all back , removed everything, floor, foam etc etc...shows not a bit of oxidation anywhere...I've been through every inch of the hull...spotless....

No, not in an open outboard boat. With enclosed boats things get a bit more serious, and also with LPG cooking gas as it is heavier than air and will collect in the bilge. Sparks are more an issue with brushed motors such as fans, bilge pumps, starter motors etc.

Really good question, one that deserves (and will get) its own video. The short answer is that the battery will always be grounded to the hull. The whole engine block is a ground and it is attached to a metal hull using metal bolts so it's kinda unavoidable. The trick is to make sure that the hull is never the path of least resistance back to the battery by having good insulated wiring.

Really good question, one that deserves (and will get) its own video. The short answer is that the battery will always be grounded to the hull. The whole engine block is a ground and it is attached to a metal hull using metal bolts so it's kinda unavoidable. The trick is to make sure that the hull is never the path of least resistance back to the battery by having good insulated wiring.

I see, makes sense. defently looking forward to a video! thanks for all your vids they are very informative and you make it easy to understand and follow. keep up the good work

Hey Matthew, so far this one seems rock solid, but there have been others where corrosion has affected the pins so I have just opened the connectors and hard wired the light with enough slack in the cable to lay the light down if need be.

I can't recall the exact gauge, but I think the main wire to the front was thick enough to carry about 20 amps and the others were about 10 amp wire.

There is a positive power wire from the forward controls of outboards that only supplies power when the ignition is on. Connect anything you want to go off to that rather than straight to the battery.

Dangar Marine would I be able to connect a 12v 6switch panel to that positive wire from the forward control amd should I wire in a fuse bank?

I haven't done a video on it yet but I do want to add a second battery to my boat soon so I'll be sure to film it.

Hey Corey. The stern light is fused because it gets it's power from that positive terminal block which is fused. This means that if there is a short in any wiring beyond that, the fuse will blow and all power to the terminal block will be cut. The advantage to that is that you can add more devices and know they are protected, the disadvantage is that if one thing goes they all do. I would always have every device protected by a fuse as there is nothing worse that having to redo all your wiring because a short somewhere caused it all to melt! :(

ah, I forgot that you already had that main positive terminal block protected with a fuse (from wiring video part 1). thanks for the great vid!

No worries, you're welcome. :)

Hi mate, glad you like the vids. :) The boat is made by De Havilland and the model is an "Offshore."

Okay, thank you :) I see your videos right now, they are so great, you taught me a lot. Hm. is it possible for you to make a video about how to connect a tank sensor and an instrument later on ?

Yep, planning to do that video in the not too distant future.

Oh great :D and once again, thank you for your great videos :)

Normally you go to the casing of the starter motor via one of its mounting bolts.

Hmmm, certainly sounds like it has a few problems. Give it has been into the shop, I presume all the obvious things are fine. The trouble with some in-land outboard mechanics is that don't get to do a proper on-water test after the boat has been serviced. Plenty of problems don't show up until the engine is warm or there is pressure against the propeller and load on the motor. Being an Evinrude it could be a problem with the oil injections system, but I'm not sure how that would stop the motor going into gear. I know none of this is probably much help, but I'd certainly be getting an Evrinrude tech to take it for a run on the water if that is when the problem is occurring.

Sounds like either low compression or the timing is way off.

It's really a matter of how much current the device you are switching draws. With navigation lights the current draw isn't much higher than the power used to activate the relay so there really isn't any benefit to a relay. Trim tilt units use them as well as starter motors obviously (well, solenoids anyway). In this video I install some docking lights that draw too much current to be wired directly kzfaq.info/get/bejne/n52KZsd8r5yWfJc.html

Dangar Marine thanks Stu that makes sense. Love your videos. I just started boating and your videos are invaluable. Thanks!

Yes, the driveshaft can get stuck up in the powerhead, which is what is happening with you if I understand correctly. You can try gently tapping with a plastic hammer and seeing if you can get a lever in the gap to pry it down, but be careful as the casing of the gearbox is aluminium and very easy to damage. Will do a video what I can.

i tried gently,but lost patience as night crawled by,i think i broke something,now it goes out a lot,but not hole way ,ssomething stuck on top of driveshaft,probably a piece of powerhead

Yep.

This setup had three fuses, they may be covered in Part 1.

I think the twin core wire is just sold as "20 amp" wire and the main battery leads at 32mm2

Dangar Marine thanx for answer. I was watching a clip of yours like 3 min ago.... I have 16mm cable i little to big but my friend told me its not so bad on a 73 amp battery...dont know in mm2 exually