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I woke up early on my third day in Albania and hit the ground running with a delicious and exotic breakfast! Come along with me as I have rare Albanian slow food for breakfast, including an amazing veal head stew, in Tirana, Albania!
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My day began on a beautiful Saturday morning next to Tirana Lake in the capital city, Tirana. It’s an artificial lake that was built in 1955. It’s surrounded by a beautiful park and residential buildings and commercial space. I’d be having breakfast at Mullixhiu (which means “The Mills”), a restaurant that’s usually only open for lunch and dinner, but the owner opened early for me!
My friend Ani from Balkan Pearls Tour Operator and I met Bledar Kola, the owner and chef at Mullixhiu. Before my tour of the restaurant, he gave me a drink made from Cornelian cherries. They have three mills there, where they make flour to use in bread and pasta. They make an amazing Albanian pasta called yufka, which is essentially tagliatelle but with meal added to it.
They add rye into the mill, which grinds it into flour. He would be making me a crumbled yufka dish called petka, which they pan-fry with butter. The cornelian cherry juice was a little sour but nice! Then, I saw the types of breads they make including rye and oat, and muffins. They also make honey and sun-dried tomatoes.
The main dining hall is rustic and Nordic-inspired, so it’s all wood. There are drawers in the table where you’ll find your cutlery and napkin. They also have lots of authentic Albanian wines.
Then, it was time to eat! We had lakror, which is a meaty pastry with tomatoes; petka with butter; trahana with cheese on top; and paçe koke (a braised Albanian veal head stew).
I started with the trahana, which comes in over 1,000 varieties! It’s bulgur wheat and is super grainy. I loved the salty goat cheese and how light the dish was. The combination of textures was really nice, too!
Next was the petka, a dish that comes from the Korcë area. It looked like a creamy, square Italian pasta with butter! It sometimes comes with duck. It’s light on flavor but really filling.
Then, I tried the lakror, which has several names and looks similar to a multi-layer pizza crust! It had so many different textures. Next was a fermented corn drink called boza, which is also found in northern Africa, central and western Asia, and the Caucasus region. I’d had something similar in Lesotho. It’s thick and bitter!
Next was the paçe koke, which also contained lots of organ meat. It was so good and full of rich, meaty stock and peppery flavor. I loved the brains, cheek, tongue, and fat in it! The broth was unreal. It’s the ultimate hangover cure! I wasn’t feeling well at first, but the stew made me feel much better! It was so good I asked for seconds!
Dessert was boza with ice cream in it! I could taste the milk and corn, and the sourness of the corn balanced the sweetness of the milk. It was plain in flavor but so good!
Then, Ani and I explored the Park of Tirana, which is also known as the Lungs of Tirana. It’s near Mother Teresa Square and is a big recreation area for kids and families. We met a woman who has a scale. You pay her 20 cents to see what you weigh. I had gained 5 kilos so far!
Next, we hopped in the car to drive to Krujë, an important medieval city between Tirana and Skhodër. It’s 600 meters above sea level! I came across a Hermann’s tortoise crossing the road along the way and took a winding road to Krujë Castle. Along the way, we had beautiful views of the town! I couldn’t wait to explore it!
Where have you been?
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About Me:
My name is David Hoffmann. For the last 12 years, I have been traveling around the world in search of unique culture, food, and history! Since starting David’s Been Here in 2008, I have traveled to over 1,100 destinations in 77 countries, which I welcome you to check out on my KZfaq channel, travel blog, and social media sites.
I focus a great deal on food and historical sites, as you probably have seen! I love to experience the different flavors that each destination has to offer, from casual street food to gourmet restaurant dining. I’m also passionate about learning about the local history and culture.
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