This video changed my life. Since watching it I have only developed with this method and have only had fantastic results. I do however use a Paterson tank so in order to avoid potential bromide drag, halfway through the 45 minutes I do another minute of agitation (slowly and with the swizzle stick). This video removed any fear I ever had about film development.

Hey Steve. Hey Eve. Came here to say DDX 1:9 45 mins IS THE BEST COMBO WITH HP5 @ 400. About to try FP4 @200 for the first time with the same formula... Fingers crossed.

Great channel, please keep ongoing.

Hello Steve, really interested to try out DD-X at 1+9 I've used it for years and years at 1+4 thanks for your inspiration to give it a go. However I print conventional wet prints so expect I will have to find my own sweet spot balance point. All the best from England UK.

Awesome video! Very keen to try this out… thanks for the concise instructions!

Wow! What a great video! At the end of this video, just felt so much more confident with using a stand developer. I didn't really understand why we should use a stand developer besides to get more details. So thank you for explaining ! )))

Thank you Steve - I love Fomapan 100. I've been developing in HC110B and the results are so fine- Being able push and pull at will while in the field is a cool concept. My standard for my ONDU 6X9 is Rodinal semi-stand 1/100 - but that same development in 35mm is a little chunky. I will be giving D-DX a try. Thank you for this excellent series.

Love how I stumbled on your channel, Steve. I got back in to developing my b/w last year because I was stuck at home. Went through a whole series of experiments. Shot the same stuff on 35mm with the same lens (Leica-M Summicron 50 f2) with different film stocks (Rollei RPX25, Rollei 80s, FP4 and HP5) all pushed or pulled to different ISOs (I did a strip of RPX25 at ISO 6 and ISO 200!) and then cut them up into strips for stand development at different times with different developers (same stop and fix though). I even did RPX25, FP4 and HP5 in 1+300 Rodinal for EIGHT HOURS; the negs look like hot garbage. Then I started mucking around with the Zone System and applying the developing lessons. Your method is giving me different ideas. I hadn't considered placing/exposing film shot at ISO box in Zone III or IV. I may have to do that just to see how it looks. Thanks!

That's given me a lot to think about . I shoot surf and seascapes on long lenses so need speed from my film . 1600 is often as low as I can go , blown highlights when the sun reflects off the water is my biggest enemy. I use hp5 mostly . Anything that's saves a few dollars is a bonus as 1.4 ratio with DDX is quite expensive Have you tried this method with hp5? You can see my stuff on my vids Thanks from cornwall uk

Hi, Thanks for this video. A couple of questions: 1. Does one need to keep the temperature constant of 20 degrees Celsius or 68 Fahrenheit throughout the 45 minutes or would there be a range say between 19 and 21 degrees for example. 2. You mentioned that a Paterson tank would not be a good choice, why is that the case? Thanks again for this great piece of work. Water at room temperature here in Malaya is about 29.9c.

My summary takeaway, why won’t everyone do this SD approach as it works. Where is the resistance to SD?

Great video ,bravo.Just two questions , at the end, as stop bath, you use water or acid stop bath ? If you choose water do you use usual fixer or alkaline fixer ? Thank you so much.

Fantastic video, thank you. I love Fomapan as well. Out of curiosity, have you tried stand development with ID-11? Any suggestions on how to calculate dilution and time for stand development based on regular development? Thanks a bunch.

Steve, do you have any experience using DDX at 1:9 for "regular developing", not stand developing. If so what is the difference in time between regular 1:9 developing and 1:9 stand developing? There's very little info out there regarding regular 1:9. I've heard of some photographers using this method to reduce the cost per roll. Also on a different subject do you have any experience developing XP-2 with DDX? Thanks, FW

Thank you Steve. I have tried this method with HP5+, Delta 400, PAN F+, Tri X and all worked great. I would like to know if it works with DELTA 3200 EI 6400.

Hey Steve. Happy new year. I wonder have you used stand development with ddx on delta 3200? I shot two rolls at 1600 last night using flash and natural light. I have hc110 also. I’m in two minds what to do.

Do you mean you can have different speeds on the same film depending on the exposure (zone 4 or 7) ? I have tried Foma 400 in Caffenol CL Semi-Stand, T-Max and T-Max mixed with Rodinal as stand development. T-Max is quite similar to DD-X, 45 minutes was the sweet spot compared to 1 hour for Rodinal. In Caffenol CL I didn't like the grain (Kentmere 100 and Ilford HP5 are great in it though), I more liked it in Beer mixed with Parodinal, even at 1600 (1 Minute agitation scheme). Some people say stand development is generally more grainy than development with agitation (1 minute or continuous). Great to have such videos from people that know film photography from the old days, like you, Martin Henson, Will Agar, Daniel Milnor, Pictorial Planet, etc. I still kept shooting BW on film, and I'm happy I did.

If don't mind, have another question, hopefully not over doing it. In the video, using a medium format camera, so not following how can develop different ASA in the same tank, can you please clarify?

One of my fears of stand developing has been bromide drag for 35mm, which is what I tend to use for my daily use. I use stand developing for my 120 film quite often. I've never used DDX developer for stand however. I know you use it for your 6X7 in this video. But have you had more success against bromide drag with 35mm and DDX? Does the pre-washing help with this? Thanks for any feedback.

I’m surprised you don’t have problems with bromide drag.