Tie rods all do that, death wobble happens because every inch you lift a vehicle you lose one degree of caster. You are raising the center of gravity while rotating the axle forward. You need adjustable upper and lower control arms with beefier heim joints to allow for the higher center of gravity and to rotate the axle back to restore caster angle. They only come with a few degrees anyway, so it makes a big difference. Caster is the angle of the the top ball joint over the bottom ball joint. The top one has to be behind the lower one so the wheels don't wobble. Bigger tires magnify the issue as well.

I did my tie rod and drag link (Moog), Track Bar & Steering Damper (Metalcloak), lower intermediate Steering shaft (Mopar), and my steering finally feels great again. I had a tiny click in my steering wheel after doing all the linkage, decided to change the lower intermediate shaft, and when I took if off, that lower U joint was about to fall apart, thank God I was bothered by a tiny click most would have ignored.

Most parts prices are reasonable. In the same boat. Labor is what gets you unless you do it your self. Just finished the axles U Joints and moving on to the ball joints, then the rest.

Yes you should be able to rotate suspension components like that. When one tire goes up and down with respect to the body or the other tire the components need to be able to rotate like that. The ends of the components have a "ball and socket" configuration. The end of the track bar on the other hand should not be able to move left and right as it is doing.

Very cool. Thank you. 😎 😎 😎 😎 😎

I’d be much more concerned about the deflection side to side on your track bar and the drag link ball joint at the pitman arm. Thuren or Carli track bar and Synergy steering components along with quality ball joints. A good intermediate priced top quality ball joint like EMF, that can be rebuilt without having to press out like you have to with the factory inferior junk. One step further?, buy a Redhead steering box. All these items= bulletproof front end.

Front end rebuild time... with better parts

Track bar (?) looks wasted. The test is to push side to side on the body. This one looks loose.

Those do move , they are supposed to.

My Ford 2010 wobble quit after I installed a new gearbox.

My 98 Toyota Corolla shakes when I go past 60mph. My dad says it’s probably because you need an alignment and my wheel’s balanced. I have Firestone all season tires and people say they suck. I’m just worried I have bad tie rods, control arms or ball joints.

Yes that's normal to be able to move it

Pittman arm looks shot too

you see grease pouring out its bad

Cheap manufacturer parts. I say most of those parts need to be thicker to help absorb the shock. Everything looks flimsy for a truck.

Those should not move that easily, definitely question that play in tie rod and drag link. Im replacing mine with upgraded components from Teraflex.

should i be able to do that,...should i be able to do that,...should i be able to do that,...should i be able to do that,..should i be able to do that,..i could've listened to that for another 30 minutes......jesus h christ, and he never did tell us what was going on.....geez....

I have jeep jk and my death wobble came from bad ball joints

Any thoughts ...duh ya ....20 years of wheeling and you are surprised that parts are worn?????

😆

Take it in have damn thing checked

Death wobble starts in the steering box