Thank you for such a detailed explanation!

Fantastic demonstration.

Very concise description Mike in door lock adjustment. Going home to try it now!

I've just got some galv split doors from a reputable company to replace my rotten push button doors on my '89 Ninety. The old doors shut and sealed just fine and were lined up in the door gaps evenly. New passenger side door was a breeze to fit with everything lining up to an acceptable standard, minimal adjustment on the striker needed. Shuts nice enough. But...drivers side is proving a right pain. To get the striker pin centred, I've had to take a couple of MM off the *back* of the striker with a grinder. Now, I've shut the door, which shut nice enough and the door won't open. Latch won't disengage back to the first click (but will click back onto the second, and then lock and unlock with the key), I had to take the entire mechanism out to get the door back open, checked that the latch clicks twice opening and closing, and all good. Tried setting it all up again without the adjustable rubber bit, as worried it was too tight a gap, but same result again with latch not disengaging fully. I'm not in a position to start undoing tub or bulkhead and making adjustments at the moment, as it's in daily use. Am I missing something obvious? Appreciate any advice you might have.

Great! We had some dust coming through the rear door, so I moved the striker about 5mm further inwards - no dust anymore :-) But with what I learnt now, I'll check if I adjusted everything correctly. Cheers!

Great, many thanks Mike! Very timely as I need to adjust the rear door latch on my ‘72 88” station wagon and this is brilliant. Given my symptoms, just from watching the video think I’ve diagnosed the issue (stopping at first latch click) and how to make the necessary adjustments. Will check tomorrow. I’ve also got a full set of door seals as some on the vehicle are rock hard, but think the latch adjustment will get the basic job done. Changing the seals should just make shutting the door easier. Many thanks again

Right on time, Mike. The new rear door is waiting to be fitted :-)

Very nice videos Mike :) who needs a Haynes manual when we've got you

Brilliant! Thanks Mike!

Looks like the same latch that is on my rear door on my ‘95 NAS 🤔

Great. Excellent explanation as always. Could you please tell me how far from the edge the lock is positioned internally? That is, with respect to the holes already present, it is necessary to drill to position the block. Could you tell me the exact location? Thank you

Great instruction - Thanks!

I found that adjusting the screw a little stopped my rear door from rattling.

I've been buggerising around with my locks on my 6x6 perentie but it has the countie style push button locks and not the anti burst locks like the 4x4's do. I replaced the locking mechanism as the original ones are welded open. Let the door free fall close and the door latched perfectly. Then when I finished I wound up the window and found I had to slam the door to get it to latch into the closed position..... Damn landys too air tight

Hi Mike, so you just bolt the striker on then, not worrying about the up/down/left/right wobble? Those holes are quite a bit bigger than the bolts.

Bril!!