Today's episode we are accompanying our super knowledgeable host Mazan on a brunch tour across Kozhikode. Deemed as the culinary capital of Malabar region, Kozhikode is home to many legendary food joints that serve authentic Malabari dishes. This brunch tour is a quest to indulge in the best of Malabari cuisine at a few iconic places.
The first stop was the Paragon Hotel which opened in 1939. Mazan wanted us to try their mutton stew and mango fish curry with some Vellapam. The minute we tasted the soft white vellappams soaked in tangy and creamy raw mango fish curry, we knew why this place attracts such a huge crowd on any given day. The aromatic and creamy mutton stew with tender mutton chunks was another revelation of the mastery of the chefs. We wrapped up this exceptional meal with dancing tea which is essentially a layered beverage consisting of tea decoction, milk and milk froth.
Next we reached a place opposite to Paragon restaurant that is hugely famous for the Kerala special plantain chips. It was the legendary Kumari chips. People visiting Paragon don't miss out on carrying their favourite snacks from here. The best part of this shop is that the workshop is attached to it and hence one gets to buy fresh chips. When we reached there we saw a team of three men sitting beside a huge heap of semi ripe plantains and peeling its skin with a scalpel like tool that too at an insanely fast pace. The were then sliced up in an electric slicer, washed, mixed with turmeric and salt and dropped into bubbling coconut oil. The heat is provided by burning coconut husk. We got some thin, crisp and hot chips to try and the savoury taste was simply fabulous.
After all this heavy stuff we stopped at Bhaskeratan Sharbath Kada for some refreshing drinks. Right before this non fancy sharbath shop there was a long queue of people. Everyone from Kozhikode will vouch for its mind-blowing taste. We ordered a naanari sharbath and a milk sharbath. The special rhythm in Bhaskarettan's hands when he assembled the drink was noteworthy. It was refreshing and luscious.
From there Mazan led us to Lorry Stand for lunch at a mess tucked away in one of the grey bylanes. There was no signage to announce its presence but the huge eating hall was packed with people and huge vats of traditional curries and rice and Mazan's brief about the place made us realise how famous it is with the locals. The meal was served in plantain leaves. There were some light traditional veg curries, rice and an assortment of fried fish. For the people of this locality, this mess the food here was closest to homecooked food they can get.
All thanks to Mazan, we had a amazing time relishing these dishes.
About the host:
anubhavsapra.com/
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Text by Swetaleena Nayak