Great CAD tutorial as always. A recommendation for creating multi material CAD: If you create only a 0.2-0.4mm thick layer for different colors and leave the rest as a base color that means you only have to do a handful of filament purges throughout the print instead of multiple per layer. This will save tremendously on filament waste and print time while maintaining the aesthetic of a multi color print. This worked well for me in a large batch job of multi material prints I did. Another point: if your colors go all the way through the z axis, the different colored parts may not actually physically bond to each other and they could fall apart.

You can do something similar with a single extruder printer. Get the sketch setup the same way, then extrude the entire sketch the thickness of the first color. Open the sketch again and extrude everything but the first color, doing a join so it's all one object making this extrude slightly larger than the first one--one or two layers should be enough. Repeat this over and over until you've done all the colors in your object. That will give you an object that has different layers. In your slicer, put a color change or pause command in at each color change. Take the open source logo, for example, The first extrude would be the entire sketch a height of 5 mm. Then the next one would be just the inner part of the logo to a height of 5.2 or 5.4 mm for a 0.2mm layer height. In your slicer, put a color change after the 5mm layer is complete. Your printer will pause, you can then change the filament and resume the print. The logo will be slightly proud of the surface, in a different color.

The Open Source Hardware logo at 8:34 was an SVG to start with. A vector format. InkScape can convert that to DXF without ever losing the vector data.

Another option, extrude the different text options are marginally different depths (think 0.01mm). Bambu studio will see the slightly different later height making it easy to paint as a surface, but when sliced will round off the small difference in height into one bottom surface.

If you don't want to use the cloud, here's my workflow: * If you're starting from something like Word, PowerPoint, Excel, or anything similar, export or print to PDF. PDFs can store vector graphics, so no need to worry that you're losing resolution or anything. * Inkscape can import PDFs, so you can use it to import. Any text will have to be converted to paths, and if you have any bitmap graphics, you will want to trace them, which Inkscape has tools for. * Blender can import SVGs. From there, you can apply the Solidify modifier to extrude the paths or do whatever you want with them.

As you say - don't use anything with that platform that you don't want to be copied. Also - as for mr Lee and similar projects, you might want to make them single-sided and then just put the black a layer or two on top on top of the background. This will save time and filament and will even be possible with an ordinary printer, given it supports M600 (which includes virtually anything unless it's very old or named Ultimaker)

You can also import the image in cad software and trace over it. Autocad will even allow you to snap to the lines.

One thing Bambu/Orcaslicer can't do that PrusaSlicer can is let you only print the logo portion for a couple of layers instead of having it be solid all the way through. This saves hours of print time and tons of filament swaps.

I wish you’d uploaded this a week ago! I was attempting this exact thing for my brother and his friends.

Finally. Been looking to see a video with this type of work

I have created multi color prints using a single extruder. You just need to change the filament at different layer heights in your slicer.

Fantastic! Thanks a bunch, Michael!! 😃 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

Awesome video. Your ttr logo turned out sweet!!

Great video, well explained. Really live your tutorial videos! They help me a lot.

I must be getting all the same videos. This is the 3rd one I got in a week. lol This one is a little more hands on than the others though. The others were far less steps but good to see how to manually do it.

Exactly what I needed. Thank you!

Cool! I have seen something like this but with no CAD involved, but even I could use this!

I recognize that Ayrton Senna helmet 😏

That s VERY VERY NICE !!!! i love it !

When choosing the filament/color for each part, just type in the number associated with the filament. Must faster than going through all of the menus to change filament.

Awesome video! Please consider making a octo4a tutorial. It's an awesome tool that has helped me a lot and might help others!

OT: I find it funny how hard it is to handle extruding an imported SVG file :)

Great video! It would be nice to show how to do this without the colors going all the way through, and just have black (or whatever your base color is) in the background.

Niceeee 🎉🎉🎉

Love it

Would it make sense to design thicker parts so the colored segments are only 3-4 layers deep to save purge waste and print faster?

I have to say, i`m a littel disapointed that this didn`t cover the one colour printer multi colour prinitng (which is done in layers of different colours on top of one another, with filament changes in between. but it`s stunning the quaility the bambulab produces and great idea to print upside down...

Really enjoying this . I am trying to scratch build a 00 scale Clyde Puffer and need sim Cowl vents. Do you know how to model them? Thanks Charlie

The purgeblock was a very unfortunate colorscheeme.

Great video but Michael.... can we talk about how you're still using WinRAR instead of something modern and open source like 7-Zip? 😆

How can you add a logo to an existing 3 model to print flat on the model surface? For instance, putting a logo on a baseball hat or a logo on a football helmet?

When's the HueForge tutorial coming up?

Trying a free Onshape account, and it looks NOTHING like what is in this video. There is no menu at all in onshape. Confused. Is there an easier way to do this?

When I 'create selection' and change to 'loop' then select a line, it will not complete the loop. I thought perhaps there was a break in it that I can't see but if I extrude the same outline, that works fine. I've tried on various outlines, and none seem to complete the loop. What am I missing?

Can we do a camouflage pattern on an already available stl?

Als deutscher kann ich hier nur sagen dass der wipe-tower eine sehr ungünstige Zusammensetzung hat

What if you want to select more than one line for the offset? It doesn't work, e.g. I want to make some keyrings, but the letters aren't connected.

Can you do one of these for Fusion 360 as well? Please!

What an epic fail. No Chuck Norris. **Shakes head**

Have you done any with resin printing ?

А как быть, если у тебя нет устройства для смены цвета пластика???

Flex PLA vid?!???!!!!!

You printed your logo in a pretty bad way. The multiple colours are only for cosmetic reasons but you have different colours all the way through the part, so multiple filament changes every layer. You should have had the bulk of the print be black and have the letters just as a thin layer on the top or bottom, it is more steps to do but still isn’t difficult. It would save a lot of filament and time.

But all i got is my 3 year old janky Ender 3 Pro...😭😭😭

Your first layer is a disaster with all that junk.

hey man may you please give me one small 3D printer🙏🙏🙏

* Makes open source hardware logo * Tutorial is for OnShape and Bambu Ouch. Yeah, this video is getting a thumbs down from me now.