Not the age. A good pothole can take them out.

Giiiiiiiiiirl I’m glad you did it the wheel bearing install right

Same with NY. It’s horrible the salt destroys everything. Lived in New England for a few years. The salt completely destroyed all the pulleys in the car. Since the salt ate thru al the covers and dried out the grease with debris going in. Now I clean my engine after each winter and before. Along with everything else.

Mapp gas on a plumbers propane torch is our friend here in upstate NY. Especially for aluminum. The oxy/acetylene torch can blow right thru a nice aluminum casting , but the mapp is hotter than propane and won't hurt things.

Lived on the east cost forever and working on my cars bolts never came off easy not living on the west coast with a newer car my undercarriage is dam near spotless no rust to be found and my car is a 2015.

Not easy but tough times breed tough men. Props!

TechGuy322 Thank you so much, TechGuy322

Unless it started to corrode since you have steel to aluminum contact. Mine were stuck from that corrosion

Did your gas petal also vibrate?

I had one making noise in my own car. When I turned left and loaded it, it was noisy. So it's the right side. Changed that and it wasn't much quieter, so I changed the other one and finally it was silent. I'm thinking both were bad , but I had no noise while turning right. I kinda looked over my shoulder as if it was a customer's car like whoops 🤣

The rear hub is a lot easier. There’s videos out there.

Do you do that by feel? I touched mine last night after a drive and they we’re both the same temperature.

@@hardcore4476 In the 80s and 90s when I had a wheel bearing making noise I could tell which side it was because the bad side lug buts would be noticeably (20+ degrees F) hotter. I am not a mechanic so this might be horrible advice.

Front tyres out of balance you would feel through the steering wheel.

Replace the rear left wheel bearing. The front and rear wheel bearings are different

What do u mean by notchy spot? I have the same issue I’m wondering if changing the cv axle is the answer or wheel bearing or both? If u can help me with a solution that would be great

I removed the wheel, then hub from control arm and axle, and had just the hub/wheel bearing by itself, I spun it by hand and it wasn’t smooth at all, a particular spot when rotating it felt notchy, I’m assuming a small portion of the bearing race or balls were worn causing it to feel that way. If you have a light hum or growl noise it’s most likely a wheel bearing just starting to go out.

Similar. We have a MK5 video too

On FWD rear axles too? No axle bolt there. And yes it's a bolt on these cars.

The nut pushes on the inside wheel bearing surface. The only thing stopping it from falling of is the brakedisc and caliber holder

Secret is to pull the strut towards the front of the car. It binds up otherwise. Had the same issue and as soon as I pulled it forward, it slid right in.

Yeah I just replaced my bearing last night and was kinda pissed he didn’t make a video on the hardest part(putting it back together, ) I did the job by myself and couldn’t get that damn axel back in, I was up till 2am when I got it finished….

The same I would assume

Did you get an answer to this?

@@dhsteelers I did not

Torque doesn’t make all that much difference but I’d be concerned about putting a full half turn on the three triple squares. But if the wheel hasn’t fallen off, I guess you’re ok. Might have fun getting them out.

@@robertgreenfield9051 I’m talking about the axle bolt, not the three triple squares you’re talking about.

Do you live in a salty area where your e brake cables could be degrading? Also, I’d have someone look at your abs.

@@robertgreenfield9051 They use lots of road salt here. But I've seen the e-brake cables, and they are not the least bit rusty. Unfortunately none of the independent shops around here know how to diagnose ABS problems, and the VW dealerships within driveable distance are HOSTILE. Why? See if this makes sense to you.... After taking my car to 4 independent shops I went to the VW dealer where I bought the car. They had my car for 3 hours, and told me the e-brake cable was "extremely rusty and disconnected on one side". They also told me the pedal was "going to the floor". I knew both of these claims were false, but since they supposedly warranty their work, I told them to go ahead and fix the problem An hour later they told me they had no parts to fix my car. They did NOT know if the parts would arrive in 1 week or 4 weeks. I asked them to call me when the parts arrived, and I'd return. They balked.. They said my car was unsafe to drive and didn't want to release it to me.. Unwilling to leave my car for an indeterminate time and pay for a long rental, I asked them to "reconnect" the cable and bill me for that. I'd take my chances with the old cables until new ones were available. They then claimed that reconnecting the cable would take too much time! (They had had my car for four hours and they couldn't find 15 minutes to reconnect the e-brake cable?) I paid the diagnostic fee and insisted that they give me the car back. I drove it straight to an independent shop and watched while they put it on the lift. The cables were not rusty, and both were connected. The shop mechanic confirmed that they operated fine. The next day the VW dealership emailed asking me to fill out an online review. I gave them ONE STAR. The VW service manager called and angrily complained about my review. I told him if they could justify a better review, I would change it. He hung up on me. A couple days later I tried to get an appointment with another VW dealer (one I'd never dealt with), and they were aware of my visit to the first dealer. They implied that I couldn't be trusted to pay my bill, and didn't want to give me an appointment. So it is likely that the first dealer retaliated for my 1 star review by bad mouthing me to the other VW dealers in the area. Now I don't know if I can trust ANY of the local VW dealers. I contacted VW corporate and asked them to investigate and help me obtain service on my car. I showed them proof I'd paid my bill. I told them (truthfully) that I'd been wanting to buy another VW before this incident, and still would if VW would help me get the car fixed. VW expected me to go back to the dealer that lied to me and retaliated for the bad review. I told them I could not trust them, and that was the end o it. Apparently VW doesn't need repeat customers. So

The Mk7 service manual specifically says [cut n pasted]--> - Press the brake pedal. A second technician will be needed. - Tighten the twelve-point bolt to 200 Nm. - Lower the vehicle onto its wheels. - Turn the twelve-point bolt an additional 180°

At how many miles did your wheel front wheel bearing go out?

Yep the front main large driveshaft bolts are very tight. Mine is a 24mm twelve point bolt head on both sides

Yep same ,too I had to buy the long socket so I wouldn't scratch or damage the car

You sure?

I believe the older style axles need that crazy torque but the new ones need around 100 nm

@@kitler01 I torqued to 70nm plus 90 and it’s been fine. Couldn’t find anything official on it but for sure it wasn’t 200nm tight when I took it off. Thanks!

what’s that

@@dumbeezy5480 Unladen position means that when placing the car on stands (free hanging axel/wheel), lifting the breakdisk to so that the axel is lifted to a certain hight before tighten the bolts on the swivel joint. In the workshop manual ed. 01.2018: "Tighten nuts -arrows- in unladen state ⇒ page 5". According pg. 5, for GOLF, this is for BlueMotion 370+/- 10mm. But other hights for other versions of the Golf (e.g. BASE => 385mm, Sport => 370mm, etc). This wasn't shown in this video. By the way, this is a dangerous operation as the car can fall off the stand when lifting it to unladen state (which actually happened to me while tightening the 3rd bolt of the set. The manual warns about this. So I had placed a 2nd stand just in case and luckily it catched the car falling.).

Definitely M12, tried it myself :-)

Any update? I have the same probblem

@@arvinbhandal6283 it was the front wheel bearing, changed both. i've tested it by getting the car up on the elevator and accelerating to 60-100kph, then leaving it on neutral so that the wheel spins freely. and then the sound was clear.

I trust you changed it.

@@sanelemazibuko1716 no but i bought a new one.. and a truck so i can work on it and still have something to drive. but now i put a machine where my lift was. i have to wait till i get a bigger shop. i just drive it around enough to keep the battery from dying and the car from rotting for now. its needs a lot, 08 r32 with 170k miles

Yes they are wrong. 70 NM + 90-degree forgot that.

They are correct. Only difference is the washer. If you have a bolt whefe the washer part is smooth,then its 200nm plus 180 degrees, if the washer part of the bolt is grooved then its 70nm plus half a turn

They are correct. Only difference is the washer. If you have a bolt whefe the washer part is smooth,then its 200nm plus 180 degrees, if the washer part of the bolt is grooved then its 70nm plus half a turn

@@NemesisRTCW Standard WHT-005-437A is smooth

Can you explain how you get enough space to get at the wheel bearing bolts without disconnecting the ball joints? Does the axle still come out somehow?

@@HugeVictor if you live somewhere where it snows then it may be easier to remove the ball joint, but yes if you take out the axel bolt and the three wheel bearing bolts when you slide the bearing out the axel will stay in place.

@@91whiteda9 Oh interesting, I take it you can reach the wheel bearing bolts with the axle in place then?

@@HugeVictor yes they are reachable but can be difficult.

Same issue. Axle, right bearing, haldex, guibos replaced, no help

Any update?

I replaced it, still have some pedal vibration I’ve just gotten used to it. My state is like #44 for worst maintained roads.

Typically when a car has been in a wreck like this, the wheel bearings are prone to fail shortly after because of the shock it absorbs during the collision. If you are new idk if you are but the bearing he replaced was on the side that took the most damage from the impact

Yea they can ,because it's like a lever. Now the wheel is a further distance away from where the bearing is supported. The thicker the spacer , the worse it will be but I'd wager I'd you were just running spacers to flush up a set of oem wheels it's not gonna decrease life much.

Yeah, the wheel is going nowhere unless the driveshaft bolt snaps.....which is unlikely.

We are going to answer this on our Askdap channel to explain why this won’t hold on kzfaq.info/love/9HPjTAfSgvPb40REdSKC2Q

@@Deutscheautoparts can you just link the video, I can’t go through all those video from years ago trying to find it

Or the spring.

You might be thinking of etorx or inverter torx, which are not the same thing as triple squares.

Triple square is also called XZN, not female torx.