Finally, someone who knows what he is doing and why he is doing it. This is probably the only video on YT which shows the full C-41 process rather than the condensed and somewhat compromised kits like Tetenal. I'd love to see a serious comparison made of the difference in results quality between the "official" C-41 process and the kits.

Glad I am not the only one who bursts into song when they are exhausted. And thank you for showing the detailed steps for color processing. My only reasoning for not giving it s try was because it seemed intimidating compared to black and white.

I use a portable Sous Vide machine to keep my chems at constant temperature in a clear water tray. Works great.

Since you made this video, a new temperature control tool has appeared, vastly superior to the aquarium heater (many of which, these days, are intentionally made incapable of reaching 38C). You can spend more than this is you really feel the need, but I ordered a *sous vide* heater -- made for very-slow-cooking vacuum sealed foods like steaks and eggs at pretty low temperatures -- for just over $30 on eBay (less than most aquarium heaters); it has a 1000W heating element (so it can heat water fairly rapidly), can be set for temperatures from freezing to boiling (0C to 100C) and will accurately maintain temperature to about 0.5C accuracy. It includes a circulating pump, and a shutoff timer. I fill a tub (like a deep dishpan) with enough water to come above the minimum level for the *sous vide* and start the device (filling with preheated water from the tap saves considerable time). Stand my chemical bottles in the tub, and good to go. I dip water from the tub for the rinse steps in my C-41 processing (ensuring that the water is at the same temperature as everything else) and I can stand the tank in the tub, too, if it's full enough (otherwise, it floats and may tip over). I also use it when I process black and white film in Df96 monobath, which needs to be much warmer than the usual 20C for black and white chemistry (up to 90F or even higher, if you're pushing film with constant agitation). I swear on my enlarger head: I will *never* have a darkroom without a *sous vide* heater again!

Thank you for your always very educational videos. With this video as a guide, I can now develop own color negative film. Now I'm currently doing trial and error to see if I can do 2-stop push processing development. I tried extending the development time by 1.5 per stop, but the entire negative became too dark... I once saw a video where you create RA-4 prints by bypassing the bleaching step and developing them again to increase the contrast. I tried to apply this to the push processing development of negative film, but sometimes it was successful, and other times it became too dark and I couldn't get a stable result. I would love for you to create a video explaining the push processing of the C-41 process someday when you have time.

I find it interesting that these Kodak instructions direct one-shot use of the developer. Most of the other instructions I've read (including the Fuji kit I'm currently using) seem to assume developer reuse.

I'm a little late to the party but my question is this, do you get better images on your negative when you develope film at home? I learned how to calibrate my film to my camera and chemicals and I get the best black and white negatives possible.

Maybe a silly question, but do you think exact temp control would be critical for chromogenic films (e.g. xp2). With no curves to drift, it feels like i could be a little more slack (i actually quite like it in regular B&W chems, but i have some c41 chems for some colour rolls, and thought maybe i should try some xp2 first, to work out my process, and that it should be more forgiving as i work things out).

a real professional video about c41. thanks.

what an interesting and insightful video with a quirky concept! great channel! thanks for sharing all this great content with us! always appreciate watching videos like this!

Aquarium heaters typically only heat up to 34 C (94 F). I have found a photographic heater by Novatronic that goes up to 42 C.

i love your channel, thanks for sharing.

Thank you so much for making this video, I've used it as a guide for processing C41 in my JOBO CPE3 with fantastic results. In regards to the bleach, do you know what the capacity is if you don't replenish it? I have mixed 5L and wondering how many rolls I can process before it is exhausted. Thanks!

Hey mate, great video. I am only just starting to develop my own colour film. Your video helped me understand the process quite a bit. One question I have, what strength do you mix up the stop bath too. My Kodak Stop bath is about 1.5% Glacial acid for B&W film, but I have seen 3% recommended for C41 (from Tetenal instructions apparently). Just wondering what you use?

Great video. Quick question: what rotation speed do you use on the Jobo?

Kodak Z131 states that bleach should not be used beyond its capacity (1 litre for 10 4x5 sheets) and should not be replenished. I am using stop bath before Flexicolor RA Bleach Replenisher NR on a jobo. According to Kodak, I’m using the bleach to it’s maximum capacity on a single use. Would you recommend replenishing and reusing for that type of bleach? Bleach starter is so expensive in Mexico :( Thanks!

Please could you tell me about all the steps indicating the chemicals and the time to process??? I will be very thankful Best regards from ARGENTINA

Are the chemicals that you're using the ones listed in that 2005 CIS-211? If so, where did you find that developer? There's a 2010 update to that CIS-211 that calls for SM everything, developer, bleach, fixer. I'm trying to decipher and buy some c-41 flexicolor but can't find the developer. Do you develop also roll film? Thank you for making this video, it's really helpful!

Hi! Excellent video, thanks for sharing. Can I use the same stop batch for BnW on C41? I use ilfostop. I bought in Mexico the following chemicals: Kodak LORR developer Replenisher and starter, Flexicolor RA fixer Replenisher, bleach Replenisher and starter and stabilizer to be used on a Jobo. Would you re-use the developer or use it as one shot? Thanks !

Thanks for making this video. I have developed a fair amount of C-41 in my Jobo, but always with the Tetenal kits. I like the idea of using the Kodak C-41 chemicals. I want to make sure I am clear, so could you please review this to make sure I am buying the correct chemicals? I researched these on the Freestyle Photo website. Kodak Flexicolor C-41 Developer, Kodak Flexicolor Bleach III, Kodak Flixicolor Fixer & Replenisher. I see that Kodak also makes a FlexiColor Final Rinse, but I assume this is not needed as per your process? I keep citric acid on hand, what dilution do you suggest for the stop bath? Thanks again.

GGGGRREAT!

New Is part A, B, and C included in the Kodak 5L Flexicolor LU Developer Replenisher?

Thanks for your great videos as always - it so hard to find anything high quality about C41 darkroom developing or printing on KZfaq. I have read so much about whether to use stabiliser or not and have always used it in the Rollei kits but I notice you left out that step. I have heard that it is not necessary with the newer films and I use Portra 400 exclusively but I am always worried about not using it especially over the long term?

How big are your containers to hold all of these chemicals? Doesn't seem like they're suitable for home, personal use.

Hi, have been enjoying your videos as I have recently switched from hand tank to Jobo in C41. I am still struggling to get good results so would like to ask a couple of questions. For amount of chemicals, especially your Flexicolor LU Developer, do you follow Jobo's minimum volume of tank or Kodak's capacity (on Z-131)? Also do you use Starter for your Developer and Bleach? Lastly, what is your replenishing method for Bleach?

nice video, i use alt 2000 whit my program, whit c41 kodak chemicals, i do more bleach and fix, 7 min

is the color developer different than the developer used for RA-4 color printing?

Thanks for the video! How come no Stablizer?

As Kodak is not a common C41 developer could you do an update video with a more accessible C41 kit.

Hi! I live in japan and I want to develop film by myself and I already research for it. There is a lot of kits like tetenal kit, unicolor kit etc. But they don't sell it here. Instead they have Fujifilm Superprodol and Kodak D-76. How can I know the developing time needed if I cannot find the film series on digitaltruth.com? I have Fujifilm Superia Premium 400. Please help me. Thank you so much

Thanks for sharing this! Would you help me? Well, I bought C-41RA chemicals for developing at home, I can't get good results, mainly (when I scan the negatives) I can see like a blueish (or cyan) haze on it. I don't really know if I'm using wrong times (I use another manual, not the one that you shared). Maybe temperature can change the color? I don't have a really good thermometer. Thanks so much!!

after developer you use stop bath? like ilfostop?

What a scam, the guy is dressed not naked.