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​History of this 413 for the community: This is a 72 413 Wedge out of a motorhome that was dropped into a 1978 Dodge Power Wagon (an unfinished 9 year project). I picked it up in Dec of 2021 and finished it. The original owner claimed a full rebuild on this engine including a steel crank and .030 pistons as well as a mild cam. When I finished (suspension work, glass, exhaust etc) the truck ran great! I have videos of me playing around in it on my channel. But after 3-4k miles, it wiped a cam lobe and lifter! I've since learned how poorly the cams and flat tappet lifter are made these days and how important zinc is in the oil! I decided to pull the engine and do further inspections instead of just replacing the cam and man am I glad I did! I pulled a few bearing caps (main and rod) and and then the heads and I did not like what I saw. I'm now in over my head! I'm an electronics and electrical guy and this has been my focus for 30 years! The last time I rebuilt an engine was when I was in tech school over 30 years ago! I do not have the know-how, nor the machines to be able to do the work that I feel is needed. So I started searching for local machine shops that can help me. Two of them flat turned me down! The rest of them are all closed up and out of business. This is a dying breed for sure. This is how I ran into JAMSI, my searches ended up showing me content from this father and son duo and I loved them right off the bat! My son and I do the same thing, working together and creating content. But it was more about what they were doing and showing that gave me the confidence that these guys know what they are doing and on a prayer, I reached out to see if they were interested in taking on this job, and much to my surprise, here we are! I feel like a kid in a candy store where mom says "get whatever you want"! I'm giving JAMSI full reign to do as they please, with the goal of a choppy cam that will play along nicely to a ZZ Top song when they're done.

Paint in the oil pan makes me question the "rebuiders" level of competence.

As an old school Mopar fanatic, I will be following this series intently. Working smarter, not harder, is a sign of wisdom. Your back will thank you for it in 30 years.

mechanical lift is not a Pansy move. It is. life longevity action that your back and shoulder will appreciate in 40 years

I wished I would have listened to you over 50 years ago about using the electric winch I've had 7 back surgeries so your very smart Keep the great videos coming

@ScannerDanner I was late to comment, but when do to think someone painted the inside of the oil pan, I'm in my 70's and have never seen that before.

I've purchased a car that apparently had a rebuild engine. It turns out all they did was install a gasket kit

As Derek from VGG says, rattlecan overhaul.

From the info presented that engine is a 413 with factory dished pistons , standard bore with .001" oversized rod /or main bearings . If the casting # is 2120529 it is a truck , if the casting # is 22205697 it is a passenger , there is one more which is 2468030 I don't have the application for . If it is a motorhome it should have a roller timing chain , heavy duty oil pump , heavy duty water pump , low compression pistons and small valve heads sometimes. thhey are made to run on cheap gas , low horsepower with big torque . Hopes this helps !

Unless they show receipts for parts and machine work, NEVER believe what someone tells you is inside an engine. I had a buddy buy an early 70's Chevelle back in the 70's that had a "built" 350. It was a dog, but the owner said the carb needed tweaking and the engine needed a tune-up. Turns out it was a worn-out 307 that had been cleaned and painted. My buddy wanted to kill the guy.

Paul sent me Much love for helping my brother out He has done so much for others it’s nice to see something being done for him God bless & Happy holidays

Scanner Danner sent me here. We don't do major engine work in our shop, those days are long gone. I enjoy watching true professionals demonstrate their craftsmanship, skill, and understanding in unique trades of auto repair such as engine work. I like how you discuss, explain, comment, and prove/disapprove by tests/measurements that the work was done,etc. You have gained a new subscriber.

Based on the factory style steel shim head gaskets, paint in the oil pan and overspray on the windage tray, id wager they did a rattle can rebuild, cam and thats about it.

A couple of things. That 413HD engine used a totally different head that had closed chambers, that's why you see those deep dishes in the FACTORY pistons. Combined with those '452, late model heads that engine probably had 7:1 compression or less. New pistons needed! The factory pistons you'd see used with those heads were flat top and about 0.150" down the hole on a 440. That engine (413HD) came from the factory with the same forged crankshaft as a 440, no problems there. It also came with a 3-bolt camshaft and double-roller chain so no surprises there. Go shopping for 413 pistons before you do anything else! Measure those chambers and see if they're still 88cc, you might need high compression 413 pistons just to get to 9:1.

Here are a few things about Mopar big blocks that may help you. That crank looks like a cast crank (forged has a wide parting line), all big block cranks after 1972 were cast. When installing the rocker arms, lay a tig welding rod across the top of the towers that the rocker arm shafts bolt to, so that the pushrods are held out a little ways from their normal resting place. This will allow you to install the rocker arm shaft so that all the pushrods will fit into all the rocker arm cups at the same time without fighting to get them all in place at once. Then just pull the welding rod out once they are in place. Installing the rear main seal can be a challenge because the side pieces won't slide all the way down when you tap the rear main seal holder into place. Offset the side pieces so that they stick about 1/2 to 3/4 inch below the mating face of the rear main seal holder, then tap the rear main seal holder into place. If you get it right, the side seals will end up all the way down at the block face just as the rear main seal holder gets to the block face. You may have to do this more than once to get the side seals all the way down to the block face. A lot of people are tempted to just cut off the excess, this will cause a large oil leak. If you are forced to use cork gaskets for the valve cover gaskets, you have to be careful how you install them. Invert the valve covers and reverse peen the bolt holes, these will usually be warped a fair amount downwards. Use a straight edge and make sure that the valve cover gasket face isn't warped like a banana. During your install, silicone both faces of the cork gasket and then snug the valve cover bolts so that they just contact the valve cover - finger tight ONLY. If you tighten it any more than finger tight/contact, you will split the gasket or push it out of place. You may think I'm being overly cautious about this amount of force, but I am not. I used to have to replace these A LOT, I know what I am talking about. Make sure you get ALL the debris out of the oil pickup, the design of the pickup has a tendency to retain a lot of small particles. You may have to pry the sheet metal of the pickup up a bit so you can root around in there in order to get everything out of it.

The good ol spray paint rebuild

Good old "Craigslist Rebuild" there. Can of paint and some new gaskets means it's "rebuilt".

This is why a cranking vacuum test is a must to purchase. In 40 plus years of professional automotive I've saved customers n myself from buying lies or junk thousands of times.

You're gonna be like Darek from Vise Grip Garage just smelling stuff then tasting it lol

I bought a 350 sbc years ago that the owner said was recently rebuilt. Thankfully I checked it over befire installing it, ended up actually rebuilding it myself and making it a 383.

Without supporting documentation , it is wise to consider the allegation of " rebuilt " , to at best , equal " molested in a woodshed by a hillbilly " , especially with ( but not limited to ) , MOPAR engines . Let the buyer beware .

I enjoy both channels, as if working on cars all day isn't enough. But, When you combine Jim's Automotive and ScannerDanner you're gonna have one well running machine!

Scanner Danner sent me over , I am looking forward to following this series . Vice Grip Garage thinks rebuilds come in a rattle can .

It's surprising how many jobs that show up in my shop that have been "rebuilt" and all that was done was surfacing heads or new oil pump, or cam. Some ppl think replacing any part off the engine is rebuilding. Or they get lied to from someone else.

I grew up under a father that owned an engine, rebuilding shop, and getting things perfectly clean, was one of many serious goals that could never be compromised. When I saw paint inside the engine, I thought perhaps that contributed to the failure.

One of the videos that pops up in my Facebook often and on here is an engine builder. He said recently there's been essentially a pandemic in and of itself with newly produced lifters being poor quality and failing.

really enjoy your work - just a few things I see - heads not '72 truck / industrial heads - exhaust configuration - could be newer 440 truck heads but look like normal heads (thin) - casting numbers help, truck heads 361/413/440 thicker/heavier - head gaskets on trucks flow different - coolant through the intake - bearings should be full groove - #4 main feeds the lifter gallery and rockers - rocker shafts have to be installed left / right for correct oil flow - aftermarket aluminium water manifold has poor internal flow may cause overheating looking forward to your follow-ups on this

Hi all long time viewer of Paul's channel. Last time I went that deep into an engine was a 67 Firebird 327 engine rounded 3 lobes on a cam. The funniest thing on that build. I was torqueing the head bolts. I remember dad saying you can't snap a head bolt as I heard the dreaded ping and felt it snap. Good new it snapped off high enough that vice grips removed the broken bolt. 🤣🤣🤣

Love that you guys are doing another v8 build. I’m a Mopar guy so this one is special to me. I’d love to see you through some power into it. Some H-beam rod, high compression pistons and a solid roller cam. Some high flowing heads and a single plain intake with Holly EFI. But that’s just me lol. Can’t wait to see the build. Keep it up guys. Thanks for the content.

I have dealt with far too many cars that said the engine was rebuilt. However, from what I could tell, the last person may have done a ball hone, valve seals, and roll in bearings. They did this to an engine with far too much wear for it to work. The result was an engine that quickly went back to burning oil. I had a friend who bought a Jeep Cherokee like that. He would frequently have to buy 3 quarts of oil at a time. One time I was lucky enough to have a spare 5 quart container of oil on Christmas day. He would have been out of luck otherwise.

Hi, ScannerDanner sent me to your channel so I can watch the rebuild of his engine. I am looking foreward to watching the process.

Noticed 2 groove keeper intakes and 4 groove keeper exhaust valves. This motor had rotators on the exhast valves from the factory. Noticed it had all flat valve spring retainers. Could be improper valve sping heights.... In our shop, we call those rattle can rebuilds:)

How do you double the value of your Mopar? Fill it with premium fuel.

im sure you will but make sure you balance the rotating assembly. Paul is a good man treat him good and everyone will know the quality machine shop you appear to be. pistons looked like motorhome dish top. i think the casting on heads were i think i saw 452 not bad but much better out there.

We called those "rattle can rebuilds" in the 70s. Cam and a couple of cans of paint. Work like that is why Texas passed laws requiring shops to turn old parts over to the vehicle owner.

In the past I was a collector and restorer of antique gas engines. Now that is an absolutely huge sentence that you first read, mostly I was a collector and later on in my endeavor I did restore but you would be stunned at what people say a restored engine is. A friend of mine owned a company that “restored antique gas engines“ and let me assure you that there were times that there were 10 or $20,000 invested in some of those engines and sometimes even more than that. I owned an Otto engine and there were no replacement pistons available in the world that I knew of. It took me off and on working on this one year to get the piston out of the cylinder. When you send a cylinder out and have an 8 inch bored cylinder sleeved, you are spending some righteous bucks . Chances are they stuck a cam in it and fibbed about the rest of it.

Huge cam for a low compression motor.

Do you ever watch Nick's Garage videos? He is a Mopar guy and dealt with numerous junk B/RB rebuilds.

I don't think you could have picked a better shop to send your engine to! These guys go above and beyond on every job they work on.

When I was coming up a "rebuild" was an engine that was machined to bring the tolerances to factory specs and worn parts replaced with new parts. An overhaul was a simple valve job, and new rings (we of course cut the ridge in the top of the cylinder with a ridge reamer) and bearings and generally were done at around thirty thousand miles for valves and sixty thousand for a re-ring. However, it made sense to do this all at once but there were times that a valve job needed to be done before rings and bearings (this was called an in-frames as most vehicles could have engine repair done right in the vehicle. When I went to a automotive machine shop class at my local community college back in the eighties, engine rebuilding and engine remanufacturing were pretty much interchangeable terms and we had access to all of the functions in the rebuilding process (excuse me the remanufacturing process). Of course, looking at this engine as you disassemble it, it is not only dirty, and not a rebuild but it looks to be a "repainted", (and repainted poorly) engine with a hot rod cam and lifters and of course the camshaft was wiped due to poor workmanship. I do not accept anything from anyone who claim it to be rebuilt. As a matter of fact I will not even buy an engine from people unless it is a remanufactured crate engine, or maybe one from Jim's Automotive Machine Shop. I learned engines from my father and he was particular and clean. I of course like doing engines for myself even though it is nasty dirty work to begin with but satisfying when you first start up a clean freshly painted engine with no problems.

From what I remember from UTG, a lot of modern reproduction Chrysler lifters have lifter failure because there's no dome in the lifters or taper in the cam

Nice tear-down. It's good to see you doing this job. I have a '70 Charger RT I bought unassembled, and wanted to do up the 440 with KB quench pistons. The block sat at an engine shop for 14 months - I went there and it was in exactly the same place it was when I dropped it off. The guy should have just said "not interested" when I first asked about doing it - that's fine. Just getting normal machine shop work done is difficult now, all the little shops are gone.

Bet this is a truck or camper/Rv engine with a cam swap and a rattle can rebuild. The truck and rv engines had the dished pistons factory with low compression. Probably why heads were milled try to get some more comp. Can by the flat top pistons for them 413 but little pricey. Good video can't wait till the next!

ScannerDanner sent me! I will be looking for the updates! It should be a great series!

I'm a little dad and son engine shop in toronto and the number of "rebuilt" motors i end up rebuilding is incredible. I just delivered a 350 to a customer and took his supposedly rebuilt core, he paid 50 thousand for a truck with a supposedly rebuilt crate engine, when i took the head off it's still got rust in the water jackets. If you're buying a car, buy the car, never buy the story unless you can see evidence, receipts or the guy who did the work.

This is awesome .. my top two favorite youtube channels doing a colab together … doesnt get any better than this!!! Can’t wait to watch the entire process and Paul Danner is gonna have the best shop in the nation building his engine! Gotta love it! 👍

Suggest that the oil filter be cut open to see what it looks like. Automotive oil filters have a bypass built into the oil filter. If enough paint plugged the filer it will start passing unfiltered oil giving the opportunity for damage.

Well, the seller told a whopper, but in all honesty it's for the better, as You've got a virgin bore to work with. If it were Me, I'd toss the whole motor and look for a 400 core to work with. The 498“ kits based off the 400 really run nice, especially with some aluminum heads and a hyd roller.

AWESOME!!!! I Love it when my favorite people come together to get stuff done. Paul Danner is in good hands with these two Craftsman and I know that he will be very happy that he came across Jim's Automotive Machine Shop. Thanks so much for bringing us along guys !!!!

Love your videos. I can hear your breathing it’s just like mine take care of yourself so you can be around to lead your son or daughter down this path too. God bless

You guys need to do more old Chryslers, I miss seeing them. Used to work on those all the time, hardly see them at all..

Someone put newer 452 heads on that, made for unleaded gas. I ported the 452 heads on my '75 400 using the Direct Connection template kit. So it was fresh heads and a cam so it was "rebuilt".

very surprised that they milled the heads for compression and never pulled pistons to change out to a non dished style, especially since the pistons look like they have tons of room to the deck of the block.

4:30 man…I do that all the time. I don’t know why. I’m always curious on the smell of things I’m fixing. 😂

At least it didn't have the industrial/motorhome heads. After a quick sonic check, it should be safe to bore all the way to 440 size, for cheaper and more readily available pistons.

The lift on the VooDoo cam probably bound up the stock valve springs.

You're assessment would be correct. As soon as I saw those deep dish pistons, I knew it was stock. Amazes me how people will screw up a set of head's vs getting pistons. I understand it's cheaper but, it's the wrong way.

That Lunati Voodoo 262/268 cam is a nice piece. Had one in a 327 sbc. If the customer wants one that talks a bit more, the 268/276 is a nice piece also.

Being a later truck/industrial 413, it likely uses the same block casting cores as a 440. Which means the cylinders are very thick, and could accommodate the 4.320 bore of the 440 if you wanted. A quick sonic test would verify, but I suspect that's what that block really is.

Am I the only one who has: 'A fuel injected Stingray and a 413' lyric now stuck in my head?

I have a question. The profilometer you use to measure the surface readiness after your honing. Those can measure a max depth of 1mm or .0394”. Can you use that on a cylinder with pitting or scoring such as these to give yourself a rough ideas or ballpark of how far you have to go on an oversized bore? Say the pitting on that cylinder measured .018” at the worst spot, that would give you an idea that you’re going at least .020 over plus honing. I know on an older video you did, I think the 383 build, you had to keep taking passes on a cylinder to see what your minimum was. Just to find out if the block was salvageable. If you could use the profilometer, it seems like it would save a couple hours of setup and machine work just to find out. If the reading it’s showing is over its max capacity, and that engine has no support for a .060 over piston, it’s an open deck and a big overbore isn’t an option, or a sleeve may be the route. It could shortcut hours of work. Saving a customer the labor, saving yourselves the time, and expediting the workflow. Maybe this idea is just dumb, I’m not a machinist and this is out of my ballpark. But sometimes good ideas, new processes, or techniques come from people not in the industry and blinded by archaic methods and processes. Don’t mean any offense by this post. Could you make a shorter lengthen video explaining why or why not this method is feasible. Maybe try it on this block on that cylinder and see what it says, and if the customer does move forward with a bore, see how close the profilometer was and if it is a step that could be implemented. I’m curious just for experiments sake.

So looking forward to following this engine on its journey to full health 😀

From now on I'm bringing a bore scope with me to buy used engines. That cylinder rust is gnarly.

Look forward to seeing the rebuild! I'm a big SD fan and look forward to learning more about your channel!

Like Derek from Vice Grip Garage would say, "she got the old Craigslist rebuild and lost the receipts" 🤣seeing stuff like this is why I have trust issues when someone tells me the work that was done to an engine.. can't wait to see what you guys do with it! One thing I'm hoping to see is a hydraulic roller camshaft!

Fun to see the tear down process and inspection of what’s wrong with engine components. That engine would be a nice fit for that vehicle!

Do some kettlebell swings. It should help strengthen and stabilize your lower back!

With .100 milled off heads, one wanders what the lifter preload is on the non adjustable valve train?

As someone who owns a 72 413 out of a RV this is very interesting to see as forth my engine sits at a builder currently

Ive got one in my Duster with a 230°@.050" with .480" lift it runs 12.30's they can run pretty hard.

Smelling around broken things can be useful. May look funny sometimes but putting a screwdriver handle to the ear can be useful too.

The start of a good engine build can't wait to see more content...thank you.

Wish you guys would post more long form videos for weekend watching.

I watch both channels. You both are excellent at what you do. I learn a lot, thank you. Your channels, skills and communication styles are very refreshing, especially in a day and age where people seem to know less and less.

Never take someone who is selling their vehicle at face value. They will lie about everything.

I've so LITTLE experience except Engines 101 in 1980. Back then they said engine overhaul goes to a dedicated machine shop. Therefore, I'm grateful to actually see one thru your vids. ✔️✔️ THX for promoting math/science. S.T.E.M. as it were is CRITICAL. Online education is superior to classrooms because you can rewind/backup/redo if you missed something... and everbody's mind goes blank on occasion so rewinding is PERFECT! B T W -- back in 1980 it was offered that a well rebuilt engine is BETTER than new. That after running, engines adapt into their final shape which yields superior machining ability compared to new and "green" blocks.

this is freaking awesome

Came over to this channel from ScannerDanner to watch his engine get built. Engine machine shops are becoming harder and harder to come buy. We live in a disposable world these days. As a Dodge who building a big block Dart this will be interesting.

those pistons were aprox 0.180" from the deck. it equals a compression of about 6.8 or less with a 0.021" stamped steel head gasket. the pistons were thicker on the tops to aleviate detonation. it somewhat looks like they just put a cam and lifters and timing chain dist and carb and intake in it and went with it. i had a highscool freind that had the same year block i believe the engine had apox 45000 miles on one put on 906 casting heads that were cut to aprox 82 ccs permatorque felpro 0.037" head gaskets a mopar performance 509 lift cam, 950 holley hp type double pumper,holley blue electric pump m1 intake port matched 2 inch comp headers, j8 champion plugs, yes lawnmower plugs because the standard champion j/12y cs would hit the header tubes. it was put in a 1964 dodge dart wagon engine was set back , had 4.56 gears, a 727 with all of the crazy mods,5000 stall cope trans torque convertor. this little ugly dart went aprox 11.27 in the 1/4 mile at 117 mph. and i forgot to tell you about the 175 hp of that wacky nitrous. i never liked it but you kind of need it when you have bassically briggs and stratton compression. i could tell you more about racing mopar stuff but this is plenty. looking for more on this soon to be bulldozen torqer rebuilt the proper way. another thing is that crank is about 68-70 lbs!

Who ever painted the inside of the oil pan should be banned from engine building. If I saw correctly, it was cylinders 2 and 7 with the rust, which would make sense that they might be exposed to humid air at the same time while the engine sat. Hope it can be saved with a clean up cut, as the 413's are hard to find anymore.

Rebuilt with a bottle of rebilt oil juice in the crankcase. You can get the same rebilt kit for any automatic trans.

That chamfer looks like it was done with a dull drill bit

ScannerDanner sent me, but he didn't have to; I watch both of your channels. You guys are great at what you do!

Love the channel always great content and really love you get to do a big block mopar great engines God bless

the paint in the oil pickup is definitely suspect.

Paint INSIDE the motor? Who paints the oil pan inside! Oh man

I just got rid of a 413 block yesterday. I was going to bore it to 4.250 and use ross 383 pistons with a different piston height to use 440 rods in the 413. What are your plans for pistons?

Awsome vid thanks. Love these teardowns

Love these tear down videos! Great stuff!

Probably starved of oil with all that paint in the pickup 😂

And that's where there needs to be a little more communication if it was a true top to bottom rebound of the engine or if it was just. Putting in a new cam.

I just found this off to watch the second video I have a 413 short block that does have 30 over pistons but they are dished like yours. I have been looking for flat tops with no luck. engine is going to require a complete tear down, because it has been sitting outside with no cover.

hopefully you got a good core , needs some roller action and EFI upgrades

if indeed its not been rebuilt hes a lucky guy now it can be rebuilt properly use some KB pistons flat top, to get some reasonable compression to start with thanks good video.

Good vid. Good to follow from beginning to end. I know it's expert opinion from many states away and arm chair views, but ... Those older Lunati cams were pretty well made. Looks like most of the wear was in the lifter. Wiped now, but ran a while. Yeah that #4 journal looks like bad chamfer. Since these Chryslers have fixed shaft rockers and they cut the heads AND added pretty big spring shims, I'm betting they ran out of travel ?? Too much pressure on the lifter as they bound the system. Maybe coil bind added to it ... There's enough duration there to make it not quite street friendly for a daily driver for the wife or mom. I would prolly use Rhoads Lifters to get more low end grunt and drive-ability with a similar cam. With that much valve trail pressure (at bind, or close to it) I suspect the push rod pockets in the stock rockers are suspect. That it where Chryslers with added cam often fail first ...

4:31 No clue why you tried to smell it, but I was just about to say that I can smell that engine from here.

Save your back as much as you can using a hoist as you’ll be happier when you’re older

Now that’s a thorough rebuild. They even sprayed the inside of the oil pan.

This is awesome brought here from Paul.