Diesel Hydronic Heating EXPLAINED | Sprinter/Crafter Van Conversion
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Time to plumb our diesel hydronic heating system for our campervan conversion. We show you step by step how to plumb a radiant diesel hydronic water heater system to give you hot water and hot air for your campervan conversion and prepare for full-time winter van life with our diesel hydronic heating system.
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#hydronicheating #vanconversion #dieselheater
@ronstwart422 3 жыл бұрын
Have 1 valve on the inlet side of the radiant floor ( where you have it). The other valve should be in your short crossover line. Water will take a path of least resistance. That way it cant take the shortcut it is forced to make the big loop. Valve 1 open valve 2 closed = big loop. Valve 1 closed valve 2 open = small loop
@FreedomStrider 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for letting us know, we'll have a think about it 🙂 Our only concern that we haven't figured out yet is that our big loop is made from 19mm ID pipe, and our underfloor loop drops down to 9mm ID, so that might cause some issues if the only path is through the smaller pipe? 🤔
@rogerwatkinson6633 3 жыл бұрын
@@FreedomStrider I know I am late for the party right now, but I paused the video to see if anyone had mentioned what Ron said here. I have to agree wholeheartedly with Ron, in that with the layout as it is (at 15 minutes into the video), the glycol will cut the corner and very little will go around the underfloor pipes. You need another shutoff valve in the 'short circuit' pipe. You are doing an awesome job though, and after finding this video I am now definitely going to watch the rest. I particularly like your meticulous research and planning. Well Done!
@ychefla Жыл бұрын
@@FreedomStrider I'm really interested in this topic as I'm considering on building floor heating for my van too. I was about to comment this same thing as Ron and Roger, but then I started to investigate further. I came across some apartment floor heating guidelines and equations (unfortunately in Finnish). There are quite a few things to consider. The pleasant floor temperature limit, what is okay for the floor materials, flow speed, pressure drop etc. Obviously I may have made mistakes and I had to make quite a few assumptions, but flow through floor heating is tiny while diesel heater requires higher flow. Some manufacturers require minimum 250L/h (4,2L/min). In my calculations I used 12mm floor heating pipe and 5 of them in parallel and still the flow through it was only 1-3L/min. As a conclusion some of the flow should bypass the floor heating. This bypass should be adjustable and could be used also to keep the floor comfortable. In my calculations the output could be around 300-600W depending on the floor and van air temperatures without becoming unpleasant.
@tom53332 Жыл бұрын
I think the same is true for the heat exchanger which likely also has more resistance than the bride. It's probably better to connect that in-line. Not sure how one could force water down the smaller diameter pipe of the floor heater though
@michaellange7819 6 ай бұрын
instead of using two valves i would use one controllable y valve, so you can decide wich way flows wich percentage of the coolant
@fravolousfilm 3 жыл бұрын
This is such a huge project you guys are working on, and you're learning so much along the way. It's wonderful to see your journey with van build!
@FreedomStrider 3 жыл бұрын
It's certainly no small task 😉 Thanks for join us on our journey.
@syncrosimon 2 жыл бұрын
We use a similar hydronic system with a Therm Top C. We have a plate heat exchanger from a combi boiler. We have 2 x 5kw silencio heater matrix’s. We also have a domestic radiator under the bed! Works brilliant. Like the idea of the heated floor.
@FreedomStrider 2 жыл бұрын
Hydronic heating systems are sooo versatile, you can pretty much design anything you want. You must be really cosy and warm with your set and we totally recommend the underfloor... can't even describe the luxury 😊😂
@Katerade753 2 жыл бұрын
This was super helpful. I am about to install this system and was feeling a little intimidated. You made it look so straightforward and obvious. Thank you!!
@FreedomStrider 2 жыл бұрын
So glad you feel more confident doing the installation - just take your time and triple check what you do. Let us know how it goes 😄
@theoteam4641 3 жыл бұрын
Well done guys, it looks awesome 😁
@FreedomStrider 3 жыл бұрын
Thank you!! 😁
@barry-cq4xg 3 жыл бұрын
Great video. You might look at empty 5 litre plastic containers that were originally filled with commercial cleaning solutions or similar. They are often thrown out in trash, but may fit better in the space you have. You have done a surperb job on the hydronic heating. All the best to you both.
@FreedomStrider 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks, we'll have a look into those containers 🙂
@ttirrell 3 жыл бұрын
You guys are doing great work! I finished my heater loop a few weeks ago and found that the heater turned off before my floor got hot because I used tees to create 2 loops similar to how you did it. I'm going to rerun it as 1 loop with a bypass/3 way tee to turn the floor loop on and off. Let me know if you get everything hot enough. My guess is you may need to rerun your lines as 1 loop.
@FreedomStrider 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for sharing, we'll let you know how our system gets on 👍
@chrismartin5772 3 жыл бұрын
Great video very interesting 👍👍👍
@FreedomStrider 3 жыл бұрын
Thank you 🙂
@drewbradford7608 3 жыл бұрын
That's a great diagram thank you! I've been thinking about this topic in my sleep. Sorry to hear about the under seat tank, would an extra two elbow joints in the hose route it correctly out the grommet perhaps?
@FreedomStrider 3 жыл бұрын
😂 Plumbing has been haunting my dreams lately too. If we had more space for that many elbow joints, might have been a possibility but as it is, we don't have enough room for that many turns. Also, that many turns might cause too many restrictions in the flow, I think it's best to keep consecutive right angles to a minimum when it comes to plumbing 👍
@nick-hq 3 жыл бұрын
I have a similar setup in Ducato and used expansion tank from Mini R53, it was damn cheap under 13€ shipped with 16mm inlet. At least it looks considerably shorter than yours. However, the main difference in my system, is that the glycol coolant (heat-ant?) doesn’t have a shortcut (by-pass pipe) on the entrance of the floor heating. So the hot coolant always passes through the heat consumers. Otherwise Eberspächer can quickly reach 80C and turn off, before turning on some 10 minutes later. Imagine your least-resistance loop is through the shortcut before the floor, the main coolant flow with 80C will flow this way, while considerably slower flow through consumers (heat exchanger, heat core, etc) will enter at 80C but with 1/10 of the flow. Also in summer a hot heat core even with the fans off will heat up the area around. To avoid such a case, I used a T-valve that either directs all the flow to the heat exchanger to warm up the water, or to the second branch of the system with heat core and floor heating.
@FreedomStrider 3 жыл бұрын
It's great to have an example of another system, thanks we'll your experience in mind, and have a look into those R53 tanks 👍
@junebrooks665 5 ай бұрын
would it not work better and be easier to install if you screwed on the reversal of the chair bulkhead nd the chair could still be pushed back wards
@FreedomStrider 5 ай бұрын
Yeah it would, but we were a bit inpatient 🤣
@mhelander 3 жыл бұрын
Good job fitting plumbing! You may shorten mount of the expansion tank and if needed use bigger diameter tubing to 90° angle...
@FreedomStrider 3 жыл бұрын
We did have that idea but it doesn't end up shortening it by that much, and we'd potentially comprise the waterproofness of the seal. We'll keep thinking 🤔
@darrenneal5304 3 жыл бұрын
Hello there, where did you guys get your underfloor hydronic heating from? I have looked but can't seem to find it 😊
@FreedomStrider 3 жыл бұрын
Well, our entire system is not a kit per say, we are DIY'ing it Our hydronic heater unit was bought from here: bit.ly/37yM3C8 Then we bought the valves, and underfloor heating pipe separately (all links are in video description) 👍
@julianrout1347 3 жыл бұрын
Great video Again, but can i ask how do you control the temp of the under floor heating please???? How many connections ? every one will slow the flow a bit so less is more if that makes sence ? Hope it all works out for you and thanks for taking the time to make the vlog , Stay Safe 👍👍🚙
@FreedomStrider 3 жыл бұрын
At the moment we are not going to control the temperature of the floor until we have tested how hot it actually feels. If it turns out to be constantly too hot, the TRV or other options for our floor surface can be implemented. We did try to minimise the connections to only what is absolutely needed - we had real trouble with all the standardized plumbing connections for all the pipes (which were ALL different???!). We are very conscious of creating restrictions in the flow, we are no experts on predicting how the glycol flow will behave but since the line is quite short and we don't reduce the diameter of the pipe that much (other than the underfloor pipe) we are hoping it is not going to be that pivotal of a problem, but we'll see. The way we've installed it is how Ebersparcher recommend so we'll try that and see 😂🙂
@julianrout1347 3 жыл бұрын
@@FreedomStrider Thanks for the reply and as always you talk so clear, hope all goes well and i will be following Stay safe 👍👍🚙
@varzel 3 жыл бұрын
great system. but in my opp. u shood get rid of the double T after the hot whatet heat exchanger and connect the floor heater directly and paralel to th hot water heat ex. the return will be made throu the heat exchg eaven if the floor heater is closed . in your solution u risk not having glicole travelling through the floor (fluids are lasy they pick the less resistent path) so u better get rid of the double T or the H and inline a manifold in front of the whater heat exchanger ( in case u wanna close it up) g.l.
@varzel 3 жыл бұрын
..oh and i 4got... u need an aerator point at the highest point of the system...
@FreedomStrider 3 жыл бұрын
Our aerator point will be the actual expansion glycol tank, which will be the highest point in the system 👍
@FreedomStrider 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the suggestion. We are, of course, not 100% sure about the H section (since we haven't done this before). So we are open to changes and upgrades, though first, we'll have to test what we have already put together, so we take a more systematic approach to this experiment. 😉
@tztz1949 6 ай бұрын
Is your air matrix heater fans quieter than a regular diesel webasto heater?
@FreedomStrider 6 ай бұрын
Because our heater is mounted externally the fan is louder than the actual heater itself. I think the heater is physically louder if they were next to each other though 👍
@VdubSPAZ 2 жыл бұрын
I'm glad I purchased a Gillig bus it already has All of that installed.... Where you put the junction at with the valves I will tell you you will need to install a third valve that shuts off the little section at bypasses when you're trying to heat the floor I don't know if anybody else has covered that yet.... I'm in the process of building my Gillig transit bus used to be a University of Michigan bus I did the tear out first and now in the build process.... Rollingwititfam on KZfaq
@FreedomStrider 2 жыл бұрын
Yes, we quickly realised that when we first ran it, so we have put a 3rd valve in that central area and it work good 👍 thanks for the tip 😊
@ttirrell 3 жыл бұрын
Are you circulating through your reserve tank, or is it just tee'd off your return line?
@FreedomStrider 3 жыл бұрын
Planning to have it just tee'ing off from the return line as an expansion tank
@ttirrell 3 жыл бұрын
@@FreedomStrider I think I'm going to try that myself. Thx
@garbi8526 3 жыл бұрын
Awesome! Have you considered that the radiant heat floor use to be at 30 degrees (Celsius) and from your heater get out at 90 at least?! Maybe a thermostatic valve to decrease the heating floor circuit could be the answer. Open to suggestions, I'm in the exact same situation as you guys!
@FreedomStrider 3 жыл бұрын
Because we don't know how hot it is going to feel once we turn the system on, we are going to first test the system and if it does prove to be too hot, then we could think about a TRV or we could rethink our floor surface which might be more manageable than more plumbing. 🙂 But because we don't know we don't want to jump the gun and start doing more than we have to.
@nick-hq 3 жыл бұрын
Eberschpächer will not let the coolant reach more than 80C. And it’s a completely independent system not connected to the engine cooling, hence it will never ever reach more than 80C. Also if you take the air heat core with 19mm inlets and the floor heating using 14mm pipes (10 inner diameter) you’ll end up with almost 4 times smaller surface of the entrance + 20 meters of the floor heating pipes and the reality is about 1/10 or 1/8 of the main coolant flow flows through the floor heating, rest goes through the air heat core and water/water heat exchanger. Long story short, believe me you won’t burn your feet :)
@garbi8526 3 жыл бұрын
@@nick-hq Awesome! Nice to know, will follow this video and followings to know how it's going! On the US Rixe'n enterprise sell a pack that includes the thermostatic valve on the entrance of the radiation floor, because of that I asked. Also, the manual suggest inserting a 12v pump on the entrance of the radiated floor to keep the glicol going in (instead of continuing the circuit, as the glicol try to find the most easy way to flow)
@FreedomStrider 3 жыл бұрын
You have very good and valid points - we are keeping them in mind. We can adjust our system if need be once we figure out what's working and what's not 👍🙂
@FreedomStrider 3 жыл бұрын
Yep that's roughly what our calculations came out as, but of course we'll keep an eye on everything 🙂
@rasmushansen6379 3 жыл бұрын
guys we need more videos please
@FreedomStrider 3 жыл бұрын
Not to worry we're back with a livestream tomorrow and then every Saturday after that 👍
@rasmushansen6379 3 жыл бұрын
@@FreedomStrider very nice :) I must admit I find your videos very pleasing to watch, so please keep up the good work
@neiljemmerson8826 3 жыл бұрын
I'll be honest I've never fitted the system before but have had experience with closed water system with glycol and that tiny bit of pipe you clamped together should also have a valve in between that, it will be ok when floor valves are closed as the pressure will push it through the H joint you made but when floor valves are open you have to close the H line otherwise you could cause allsorts of flow issues. Apart from that good job.
@FreedomStrider 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the suggestion, we're doing a bit more study on how the flow works (because we are newbies at plumbing) so we'll seriously look into it 👍
@theoteam4641 3 жыл бұрын
It’s a shame that the tank didn’t fit, hope you find one that fits 😁
@FreedomStrider 3 жыл бұрын
Working on it 😉
@poduck2 Жыл бұрын
The water should never have multiple directions it can go on it's own volution. The water will not circulate through the entire system.
@FreedomStrider Жыл бұрын
You're right, we put a valve in the H piece to stop this happening and force the water through the underfloor pipe instead, which now works excellent!
@ronstwart422 3 жыл бұрын
The shutoff valves for the heated floor.... One of the valves is in the wrong place.....
@FreedomStrider 3 жыл бұрын
Which one and where would you put it?
@Isthatabeerinyourpocket 3 жыл бұрын
I'll stick to a diesel heater :)
@hamiltonharman9962 3 жыл бұрын
I’ve got an all in one box diesel heater £85 and a German made 12v underfloor heating film with thermostat £110 both only took 1hour to install
@FreedomStrider 3 жыл бұрын
Glad you found suitable solutions for your needs at such good prices. How much power does your electric underfloor take and how big is your battery capacity?
@FreedomStrider 3 жыл бұрын
Ours is a diesel heater - just not an all in one 🙂
@simoneboschin 3 жыл бұрын
Guys I'm mouting the same system bought from Mellor. Just one advice. For best performarce mount the heat exchanger vertically, not horizontally like you did. Like this you will lose heating potential.
@FreedomStrider 3 жыл бұрын
That's good to know - we'll look into the possibility of doing so... though our couch height might prevent us from doing so - we'll go and measure. Thanks 👍 🙂
@UrbanVanlife 3 жыл бұрын
oh guys that is just so many connections. so many . like how many lol . could you not put the tank under the seats, or depending on the size of the tank would aa 1-gallon fuel tank not work you could drill come holes in it and fit some connections to get the pipes on , and that would sit under the seat , also omg how many connections, I'm thankful we fitted the trumaa combi water in and out and aa gas pipe , boom, but ill say this it was fascinating to watch you doing it to be honest, arrrrr and the poor boy's hands you needed a neil for them pipes, that's the correct tool for doing things like that . GREAT VIDEO THO NON THE LESS
@FreedomStrider 3 жыл бұрын
😂 Yeah...a lot of connections... as we said, the leak test will be fun (hopefully not as fun as I dread). We can't fit our current tank under the other seats, it's too tall. We need a tank that can handle high temperature (90C) but yes a tank, like those 1-2 gallon fuel tanks (like the red one we have) do fit under the seats - that might be the direction we go. Cheers 👍