DIY Camper Van Electrical System || DIY ELECTRICAL || RAM PROMASTER VANLFIE BUILD

Рет қаралды 3,962

2 ай бұрын

An overview of our DIY electrical system, for additional information leave a comment or reach out to us on instagram!
Instagram: @Racine_and_Peter

Пікірлер: 51

@daviddorsey8754 29 күн бұрын

Excellent Video, He reminds me of DeCaprio

@RacineandPeter 29 күн бұрын

Oh stop it, thank you and glad you enjoyed the video!!😊😊😭😭

@marcusmartinez3507 15 күн бұрын

Watching this was super informative and seeing how you laid things out help! Thank you ! Subscribed #400!

@RacineandPeter 15 күн бұрын

So glad you enjoyed the video and thanks so much for being number 400!!!!! 🎉🎉🎉

@joshuaheron1277 Ай бұрын

Exactly the setup in about to build and had in my mind. I found that inverter and wanted to see if anyone has done a build with it and included solar! Thanks for this I will be building one almost identical in my Camper minus the alternator.

@RacineandPeter Ай бұрын

It’s been such a good setup so far, no issues! If you have any questions at all let me know!

@SuperBlobsterMan 19 күн бұрын

If one of your batteries short circuits internally, you will be relying on the BMS system of the other battery to disconnect. Do you trust that BMS? If that BMS doesn't disconnect, your van will likely burn down. This is what I did. I used the same fuse as you on the terminal, but I connected the wires opposite of how you did, that way the fuse protects the batteries from each other. I would know if the fuse blows because my Renogy Monitor (+) wire is connected at the top of the fuse, which means that my monitor would read the voltage of the battery that is disconnected due to the blown fuse. The monitor would never change voltage reading if the fuse blows. Than I added one fuse downstream of the disconnect to for my primary protection. But I don't trust the BMS to trip in a fault if its my van, never never never. Great video. Thanks!

@RacineandPeter 16 күн бұрын

That’s great input I hadn’t thought of that and now I have to rethink some things! 🤣 thanks for your comment and glad you enjoyed the video!

@Par_x3D Ай бұрын

That's a super solid system! I also see you went with silless butyl mats, I did the same in my minivan. Those 2 280ah LFP batteries are a screaming deal. I paid $200 for my 100ah DC house and it felt like theft, but yours were even better value. I look forward to seeing more whenever you have the time!

@RacineandPeter Ай бұрын

I love the batteries! They’re so nice to not have to worry about capacity and drainage on them! Tell me more about your build! I plan on doing a schematics walkthrough video soon for more details!

@Mike1984-lc9rh Ай бұрын

Two 280s, nice! That's some serious power for a Promaster. I got a one 280 4 cell build in my minivan camper. All the hardware is Victron (3 chargers). Anyways, you got some young Brad Pitt going on there lol

@RacineandPeter Ай бұрын

Thanks! It’s going to be perfect for us and they are some big boys for sure! Nice! How long have you been in?? And stop it, you’re making me blush! 😂

@Mike1984-lc9rh Ай бұрын

@@RacineandPeter I only build my minivan camper for long weekend trips within the state, so I can hang out at other beaches, and stealth camp literately everywhere, incl on Key West. Build this thing 3 years ago. 465 w commercial grade solar panel on roof, compressor fridge, real stainless sink, 13 gal fresh water, fulls size toilet, outddor shwoer, induction cook-plate slide-out, passive AC, butcher-block, pull out bed frame with 84 by 40 inches, 24 in TV, soundbar with subwoofer, 2nd monitor for laptop, several fans, dimable LED lighting, all the electronic are build into the stow-n-go cubbies under the flooring, as well as the water tank and pump. Drawers for food, clothes and dishes under bed. Kitchen block with fridge, induction cook-plate and sink is in place of passenger seat, so only driver seat is left. Toilet is composting with black water tank for fluids - can be drained with push of button. That sing is in the back, in the rear cubby where the 3rd row of seats fold, so I can sit there like in a bathroom. It was important to me that I don't have to deal with public restrooms.

@JonnyWaldes Ай бұрын

I recently picked up the same pair for great deal on ebay. Using in a little house. Still prototyping though

@RacineandPeter Ай бұрын

They have worked wonders so far!!

@JonnyWaldes Ай бұрын

@@RacineandPeter Yeah I am just figur\ing out I ill need more than 1200 W solar to run my AC more than a few hours. Or i need to turn it way down.

@JonnyWaldes Ай бұрын

Btw I also got the ecoworthy 3000 W hybrid interverter / mppt charger. Bad documentation but pretty solid operation so far.

@andreathompson280 Ай бұрын

Very informative video 👍 good job thanks

@RacineandPeter Ай бұрын

Of course! So glad it was beneficial! 😃😃

@Nauman406 Ай бұрын

Nice setup

@RacineandPeter Ай бұрын

Thanks! It’s been a fun build!

@kradius2169 Ай бұрын

Awesome project & great content! Thank you. I have been considering an auxiliary electrical design for a minivan, and am always grateful to anyone brave enough to post to the world the nitty gritty of their own work. Thank you again. I'm learning here. What I do know is that DC systems can be deceptively simple, and here, we have AC & DC ... so, rock on? Or is it ... 🎶 Hiiiiiighway to Hell? There's always the possibility of some magic smoke ... or maybe even sparks & arcs & flames ... God forbid, any of that. Hence why the National Electrical Code is published by the National Fire Protection Association, right? Anyhow, if I may, as an unqualified U2oob commentator only, I have no less than an even dozen & a half detail questions & observations ... by no means intending to be, and certaining not constituting a complete design review of your awesome camper's auxiliary electrical system. As follows: 1 >> 3:19 2/0 AWG probably good for more than 200A, but you are only fused at 150A? ... and your combined battery is apparently, per Eco-Worthy's datasheet, good for ~280A? Why effectively clamp the battery output to 150A at the fuse? 2 >> 3:25 150A "crazy wrong"? According to Eco-Worthy's datasheet for their 280Ah battery, max output for one(1) battery is 140A, hence; 2 x 140A = 280A > 150A Or am I "crazy wrong"? ... again. 3 >> 4:46 Why is the battery monitor reading 13.6V? Is the solar inputting charge? Should be 12.8V @ 100%? ... Or no? ... Just askin'. 4 >> 6:26 Does there need to be / is there, perhaps out of view, an Over Current Protection Device (OCPD) on the cable to the Inverter from the main 12V bus bar? 5 >> 6:28 Is there / should there be a Renogy output cable OCPD? 6 >> 6:34 Not certain, but should the Inverter AC output cable have an OCPD at the Inverter? ... to protect the feeder cable to the AC Distribution Box? ... or just for isolation, a disconnect? Maybe it's out of view? 7 >> 6:34 Is that the DC Distribution Panel feeder cable OCPD? ... mounted just above the right battery? 8 >> 6:30 Rubber grommets for cable protection against vehicle vibrations at cable routing penetrations / holes? 9 >> 8:55 50A? 2,000W AmpInvt Inverter "User Manual" states "AC Charging Current" "0-35A"? Not certain if that's 35A @ 120V or @ 12V ... but where would the 50A Inverter output be from? 10 >> 9:00 Just curious, assuming Inverter 50A @12V charging output, how would that be 10% of a 560Ah battery? 11 >> 9:58 6,000W? Would that only be possible with; Shore Power + Renogy (Solar/Alternator) + Battery? And for how long 6,000W? A few seconds? 12 >> 10:51 2/0 AWG to alternator? If Renogy has 50A max output, theoretically, not a 2/0 AWG, but instead a #6 AWG @ 3% Voltage Drop possibly sufficient ... per Blue Sea Systems cable sizing chart, apparently based on ABYC's E-11, which seems to jive with NEC "free air" ampacities. A 2/0 AWG alternator feeder cable overkill / difficult to route / difficult to land on the Renogy terminals & the fuse terminals? Perhaps future-proofing your auxiliary system for an alternator output upgrade? 13 >> Shore Power Video You put in a very nicely mounted 15A receptacle for receiving shore power. 15A x 120V = 1,800W What is your calculated max auxiliary electrical load? ... or even just the calculated Inverter load? 14 >> AmpInvt User info doesn't say, I do not believe: Happen to know the size of the Inverter's AC Input fuse? 15 >> Inverter Video There are two AC outlets on the AmpInvt Inverter. Couldn't find it in the literature: Happen to know if those outlets have over-current protection? ... if they did, could you eliminate the AC Distribution Box? 16 >> Battery Charging Time If I understand your auxiliary system, in a scenario where only solar / alternator charging were available, from a dead auxiliary battery, it would take about 11-12 hours to reach 100%? 560Ah. % 50A = 11.2 hours? 17 >> Li-ion & Thermal Runaway Li-ion batteries are such a compelling product -- hard at work in my phone as I type! Beg your pardon, little Nervous Nellie here. Li-ion batteries terrify me though, due to the very, very unlikely ... but very, very scary ... possibility of thermal runaway. U2oob: Lithium Battery Hydraulic Press Beyond the Eco-Worthy OEM internal BMS & other features, would there be any thermal runaway prevention / mitigation design features being implemented in your design? Just askin'. 18 >> Schematic Diagram Happen have a schematic diagram of your aux electrical system? Lot going on there, Boss. No need for me to see that diagram. Just curious if you had one [yet?]. ---------- Anyway, once again, thank you for your thought provoking & well presented content. Grateful for any & all input.

@RacineandPeter Ай бұрын

Wow, great questions! I appreciate your comment and I'll do my best to answer all of these! 1) I estimated my worst case scenario for amps out on the battery and wanted to keep my output around that - may be short sited but id rather be safe than sorry! 2) not wrong at all! but a similar answer to the one above - I wanted to keep it around safe limits of the battery and limit it towards the higher side of a single battery than both 3) Our battery at the time was at full charge and typically at full charge it'll show higher voltages (ideal voltage/standard voltages are 12.8V but range based off charge - this happens in car batteries and other batteries as well) 4) there are a ton of protections within the inverter/charger itself so i didnt feel the need to add one - however it does not hurt to add extra potection and you totally can! 5) same deal! i chose not to but you totally can - with other breakers/fuses on the input side of the charger i decided not to! 6) the AC distribution box has 2 20A breakers on the inside that work as a disconnect to the inverter side! if i needed to work on the cable itself or the inverter output terminals i would disconnect the system entirely - so an additional disconnect didnt make much sense for me 7) yes! great eye! 8) not a bad idea! i may add some flex seal or something to add this protection from rubbing! 9) Wow - great catch! i mispoke, it is 35A ! 10) it is definetly less than 10% but the total charging from the inverter as well as the renogy batt charger totals greaeter than 10% - wrong in the video from how i spoke, great catch again! 11) 6000W should be peak output in emergency situations so it would only be for a short time period - nothing crazy but nothing small! 12) definetly sized these cables for future proofing! but the battery cables fit to the terminals well enough as well! 13) I wouldnt trust these 15A max labels - essentially uses the same cable as standar marinecore that is used in the rest of the system and can definetly handle more! 14). I'm not near the van right now for this but i can confirm in the future for you! 15) These supposedly only have a 10A max output - so technically yes - however i wanted more output so i tied in an AC breaker box! 16) yep if i had stated my inverter size appropriately than that would be correct but with the 35A its more like 16-18 hours! with the solar and alternator itll offset that though! 17) besides it being under our bed and us feeling the fire (lol bad joke) there isnt really any other method installed for this 18). I was waiting for someone to ask the quesiton - I do not but it is not a huge deal for me to sketch one up! give me over the weekend and i can get something uploaded! thank you so much for all the great questions! I hope i have answered them sufficiently - if not please let me know and i can try and do better! You rock and good luck with your build!

@kradius2169 Ай бұрын

@@RacineandPeter... Whoa, that was fast! Caught me on my heels. If I may, follow ups to: 1 >> Rolling Stones / You Can't Always Get What You Want Random looked up a Turin Sonata Espresso CRM3005H / 1,450W ... 1,450W ÷ 12.8V = ~110A 110A + 40A of Velit A/C + not a single other load, no tunes, while parked somewhere in Moab sometime between Memorial Day & Labor Day = "Gonna blow a [1]50A fuse"? 💋 10 >> Origin of 10% Eco-Worthy datasheet stated, combined output: 2 x 140A = 280A 35A ÷ 280A = 12.5%? Just curious how that's calc'd ... and is that just vanlife / electronica lore / rule of thumb? ... or perhaps even a published industry standard of sorts? 11 >> Can't Get Blood from a Turnip? Eaton / Tripp-Lite APS2012 Inverter datasheet claims: 2,000W continuous 3,000W up to one(1) hour 4,000W for 10 seconds Promaster build: 2,400W ... 20A @120V shore max + 2,000W ... 150A x 12.8V batts + 800W ... 50A x 14.5V Renogy 5,200W ... for seconds? ... otherwise shore power source blows / trips open? Anyhow, guessing only there's some momentary surge of supply ... followed by blown sources? Just sayin'. Generically speaking, obviously nice to fairly precisely / precisely know an auxiliary system's absolute max power amps & duration. Though seems an elusive number. 13 & 14 >> Load Shedding Shore 20A max due to plug style? ... hence, shore only power mode 2,400W max? 18 >> Schema Best investment of electrical time possible, imnsho. Laminated copy available in the general area for quick reference? Good luck with the build. Grateful for the input. Cheers.

@kradius2169 Ай бұрын

P.S. Perhaps you already have heat. Is that Promaster diesel? 🤞 While back on U2oob, don't remember who, but dude had a diesel heater behind/under the passenger seat(?) of a Promaster, a heater like the Velin ... noticed Velin's heater looking up the electrical load of your Velin A/C. I know from truckers those types of heaters can be quite good, I was thinking of one for a minivan ... tough application though, as non-mechanical me feels diesel safer, minivans all gas ... plus very limited open space in or under a minivan. Promaster may have a factory aux fuel tap on the fuel tank, ready to rock!(?) Apparently best to almost undersize those heaters, as they can tend to gunk up if not running full tilt. Thought I should mention. Of course, would need a little power for a vent fan & controls.

@RacineandPeter Ай бұрын

@@kradius2169 1) great question, the nice thing is a lot of those higher power draw loads wont be to long (for instance espresso machines will peak and drop deppending on heating element usage and time heating) Most of the time those would be only a few minutes - so if the tunes are out for a song or two no biggy lol. 10) i think its more my rule of thumb - I like to keep charge times between 10-20 hours on batteries which typically is around a 10% charger sizing 11) great point and it would result more in blown fuses or shorted equpiment rahter than blown source! but yeah those pieces would go first 13/14) thats more accurate to it - I would say that would be a comfortable high on amperage 15) schematics in my brain but ill def get it down for ref! thanks, Peter!

@RacineandPeter Ай бұрын

@@kradius2169 I wish we had heat - in Florida now and dont need it but well see what happens as it gets colder - i have some space laid out in the back for a 12VDC diesel heater (seperate diesel tank) unfortunately the promaster is gas :(

@dan-oe7yw 23 күн бұрын

Fyi , your negative cable on the fuse block must be turned or the cover wont snap on. I made the same mistake with mine, nice system though

@RacineandPeter 23 күн бұрын

Thanks for the heads up! It’s been a great system so far! What do you have?

@K0nst4nt1n96 Ай бұрын

In my camper i just use a powerstation and when im not camping its a solar battery to lower electricity costs.

@RacineandPeter Ай бұрын

That was a thought we had - but with working full time and the desires we have with the AC unit we needed a full electrical! How does your station work for you?

@SuperBlobsterMan 19 күн бұрын

Powerstation is what I would recommend to any casual camper or someone on a tight budget. But building a system is much more robust, easy to expand storage capacity, easy to expand charging capacity, and easy to replace individual parts. If a powerstation fails it is a brick, but they are super convenient and easy to replace the whole station because many places sell them.

@chloeellis4117 26 күн бұрын

Hi guys question please. I live in England were the sun is low. I'm I better to get many solar panels to charge my batteries.. Or should I get more batteries and a small generator... There is sun, but it's seasonal... And power drops considerably.. Thanks

@RacineandPeter 26 күн бұрын

Hmmm I probably wouldn’t do solar if you aren’t getting a ton of sunlight but it never hurts to have at least one panel! As far as it goes with batteries it depends on space for you! If you have the space I always recommend some extra juice, generator wise I can’t really speak on, instead I would get a DC-DC charger and tie it to your van’s alternator!

@chloeellis4117 26 күн бұрын

@@RacineandPeter thank you, very helpful...

@RacineandPeter 24 күн бұрын

Anytime ☺️☺️

@HoneyBerighthere-Saysarath Ай бұрын

$1000 for 2 of the 280ah. Car 1 battery $200 is 170ah. 2=340ah for $400. $1000%$200=$800, 4 + 1 car battery = $1000 = 680ah + 170ah = 850ah. Questions is Duracell car 859ah vs your 460ah.

@RacineandPeter Ай бұрын

There are definitely cheaper options with different battery makeups but for this battery type and size it was a great steal! And they were under $1000! Which battery type do you prefer???

@TheCornucopiaProject-bd5jk Ай бұрын

Looks like someone is still in love with lead acid batteries.

@Mike1984-lc9rh Ай бұрын

Your calculations are wrong. You can't use 100% on lead acid batteries. Deep discharge past 50% will destroy them, so you only get half of your claimed amps. They also need much more room and weight more. Your typical 200 buck car battery doesn't have 170 amp rated, more like 120.

@TheCornucopiaProject-bd5jk Ай бұрын

How can you charge that system from a public EV charger?

@RacineandPeter Ай бұрын

From an EV charger we can’t, but a 120V AC outlet we can!

@TheCornucopiaProject-bd5jk Ай бұрын

@@RacineandPeter someone needs to build a EV charger for diy battery banks.

@RacineandPeter Ай бұрын

Preach

@will1122 Ай бұрын

a background in electrical engineering and this took you a while to research to set things up? I'm questioning who gave you an EE. (as someone who has a degree in Electrical Engineering)

@RacineandPeter Ай бұрын

Yikes, I feel like this is a bit over the top. Doing research and getting the correct components should be part of an engineers due diligence. Thanks for the comment though! Good luck with being an engineer:)

@will1122 Ай бұрын

@@RacineandPeter taking your time researching complex concepts absolutely but as an EE gauging wires for 12 volts on these very short runs should be an easy 5 min process. If it was someone with little to no experience I’d be more understanding, I guess my expectations for EE professionals are a bit too lofty.

@RacineandPeter Ай бұрын

Taking time and researching anything, engineer or not, should be the proper thing to do. If you don’t back up and justify your research (big or small concepts) then I’d say that is a poor engineer. Thanks for the comments though, won’t be responding past this! :)

@kradius2169 Ай бұрын

@@will1122... "Should be an easy 5 minute process" 🤣 Shortly [no pun intended], I'll be generating a separate detail design comment. Looking forward to your $0.02

@SuperBlobsterMan 19 күн бұрын

It takes quite a bit of research to get all the parts together that you want for the install without buying a bunch of things that aren't necessary. I spent a couple days researching and ordering all the parts for my van electrical build, and I am a 10 year Electrician who orders and installs electrical parts for a living.