I like the plastic 2x4 idea...

I'm planning to install my system with unistrut. Can You guys share your opinion if I would use the 14 Gauge unistrut piece instead the 2×4? Appreciate any thoughts, advice!

@@tommyluck19 That would work just fine. Sofar ours up 5 years now and no issues.

@@geekdomo thanks

There is plenty of air flow under the panel....To me, that is way more cooler than putting them on the roof super close. So, putting them side by side with no gap is acceptable. You just need good air flow, with a 2x4 that is 1.5" off the roof, plus the rail say another 1.5" and the aluminum frame itself is as good as it gets. I say as long as you got 2 ~ 4" you're fine.

Don't let worry hold you back anywhere!

Good way to keep the poor hooked on grid power.

Note - I bought 460W panels which *almost* dictate a 2-man job and limit install options. I may have gone smaller in hindsight.

I am using hockey pucks, picked up a box of 30 for about a buck each. Should last forever.

I was thinking cellular pvc trim boards would work too instead of the pressure treated. But I imagine the PT would work fine since it's not *that* directly exposed to the elements.

Albert Moulton Brilliant!

I am thinking of just doing pressure treated lumber with weather seal paint on it. Use z brackets, just screw them straight into the wood.

The panels are guaranteed to produce 90% or better for 25 years, there is minimal degradation in output after that. It will produce til its broken.

Might the part of the roof covered by panels last longer since there's less weather exposure?

That is really more for hardwood that you cut. The whole point of the _pressure treating_ is that it impregnates the wood so that it's not just a topical application. There is no need to seal the ends of pressure treated wood and it will still last as long as advertised.

Is an aluminum block or crank case in a car held together with aluminum bolts? The answer is no... It's nice to talk about never allowing two different metals touching in theory, but in the real world, it's everywhere.

@@rustusandroid correct the contact between dissimilar metals can be aggravated by movement ie. friction and or an electrolyte. The time frame for failure under normal atmospheric conditions would would far exceed panel effected efficiency life of 40 to 50 years.

The real challenge is the quality of ground contacts using a standard copper or bronze connector. Aluminum contacts through the aluminum frame on the solar panels is a decent method for ground and should be shielded from air and other environmental exposure a quality over the counter spray paint properly applied will help shield the contact thereby delaying corrosion.

Your going to have a lot of fun.

Thanks for the comment. Good point.

No shit. The tiny brackets are stupid. Impossible to fasten 2 rows together.

How are the frames connected to the bolts?

@@flowerpt With the big square Unistrut washers. Bolt goes between the panels, and the square washer secures the two panels.

Those are 25 to 30 yr shingles.. They were recently installed at the time of this vid.

Flat Shingle 8-in Brown Galvanized Steel Step Flashing

anything over 100 mph ... no. AND, if the roof is gone, then so will the solar panels.

@@pure-lighttechnologiesinc.7353 lol... That's so true. If a F5 comes through wondering if your solder panels are still attached is the least of your worries.

If a 100 mph wind rips your roof off it was in need of replacement anyway.

paint the rail?

l.no._one on yt you can use flashing on a roll and cut to size or buy pre-cut flashing at the store.

You made lighting rods pal. Aluminum is not conductive pray for your family be safe.

@@joestalin2375 Aluminum is not conductive?

There was no permit pulled for this work. His install method would never pass inspection.

@@jerrellbevers6071 He said to check with local code, which no doubt he did, he's in the business, maybe your code requires a $2000 rail system, but not in Idaho which is where he is

@@thomasmorris4914 I wasn't commenting about the rack system at all. It was his roof penetrations. If he used sealant he never mentioned it or showed it being used. Throwing down a piece of metal and driving a hole through it with a block that can shrink and expand will get you leaks, guaranteed. There is no code requiring a type of material to be used to make a rack system but there are plenty of rules for holes in roof, distance from edges and sticking up past the ridge like that. Also, just because he said to check the local codes doesn't mean he did or even had to. Inspections out in the boonies aren't always required. Edit: Everything else he did was fine but if you follow the way he did for attaching it to your roof then be prepared for water damage eventually.

He used a sealer under the piece of metal.

@@frangray7228 I researched this and the sealant (while good) is not enough as a *primary* water block. The rubber sealant will expand & contract which would help to loosen over the years with day/night constant thermal cycling -- winter freezing temperatures wouldn't help either. In addition to thermal cycling, repeated flowing rain water contact directly on the sealant can cause chemical changes that can erode its soft material away which gets hit directly at perpendicular angle to the flowing water. Of course, this process doesn't happen overnight but years after you've stopped thinking about it and complacency settles in. The sealant needs a vertical "water shield" above it -- like a welded metal strip standing vertically. The shield need only be 1/2" high shield or so but it will redirect running rain water so the sealant becomes a *secondary* water block while the shield is primary. So if he welded on a little bit of metal "inverted V" shape *above* the seal, then that can redirect water around the penetration point. It has to be a good solid waterproof weld that joins the inverted V shield to the metal sheet as one solid continuous piece. Another option is to 3D print a flashing mount that has this shielding feature built into its design.

So you actually have building codes in Florida that demand to be able to withstand category 4 & 5 hurricanes? Really? Where, I would love to see the code.

@@totalsolartechnologies9137 you can search them on the net. Maybe you sleep through the last few we had. lIke the one that wiped out Mexicana beach. The panhandle..

@@freebird1963 Unistrut is harded heavy gage steel 10 times the strengh of aluminum plus heavy duty structural screws on every joist very strong racks

@@totalsolartechnologies9137 .."The counties surrounding Tampa Bay all fall in the middle range of Florida's wind codes - from 160 mph in parts of Sarasota County - to 140 mph in parts of Citrus, Hernando and Pasco counties. ..." Does that work ?

Yes, however it is much, much less expensive than the commercial rack systems. And there are a lot of people who are DIY people who want a less expensive way to do things.

A decent rack system and all the expensive hardware that comes with it can cost a couple of grand if your system has more than a few panels.

HeadLOK to be exact

Avasva is spam all over

or falling off the roof ...

Pannels will be dead before that wood seven thinks of rotting pressure treated wood that’s not in contact with the ground is guaranteed 100 years

Don't mock a guy being helpful. Good tip about the chalk lines.