I stole your idea to design a sliding table for my bandsaw. Because the bar stock for the rail is so consistent I was able to eliminate the bell cranks. These rails are so much better than drawer slides!

Thank you for your smile, thank you for the time you take to make the videos, but also the time you take to explain the details that make the interest of the realization. I really like the principle of automatic adjustment. Simple, indeed! It's simple, but you still had to think about it.

I like the way you think sir, will be following your build, reckon I can learn a lot! Thank you for taking the time to film your build. Not that you need it, but I wish you best of luck with your build. Ian South Africa

Thank you for being so generous with your time and sharing so much information.

brilliant design, have been looking for good concepts, this is the best yet

Thank you, man. I’m on a super tight budget with high standards and this is gonna be helping me make a surface grinder attachment for my 2x36 without sending money to China or spending a ton. I appreciate this so much.

Very clever, using the tensioner!

Thanks for this upload, I have been researching for the last month and compiling different build plans to minimize build cost yet yield precision and rigidity, Your bottom spring loaded bearing design looks very effective thumbs up to you sir.

I sure wish I saw this before I machined my rails. I'm part way through offset turning some ridiculously overly complicated, difficult to adjust, unforgiving, time consuming, PITA , wish I'd never started, "eccentrics" that I designed for keeping tension on the bearings. Your "control horns"(lol), look to be a MUCH simpler and more forgiving solution. Looks like I'm changing gears again while I still have my sanity. Thank you very much for the helpful video and reminding me accuracy in certain components doesn't always matter as long as the desired result is met. :>) Smart work !

I found short self-tapping screws work quite well for attaching the flat to the square tube. You still need to drill the holes, but don’t need to tap them.

your video inspired me a lot. i can't do preceise work but i'll make it adjustable. also i'ill use v bearings for my diy 3d printer.

Looks like a good design to me. Will work beauty for a plasma table which be plenty precise enough. Bought a blue Magnum Sharpie, btw. I have that same tapping stand; what a great purchase!

great design

Thanks for sharing!

Clever design.

BEAUTIFUL thank you so much

Mister you are the best .... amovible bearing whaoo thank you ...

AWESOME 👌🤓

like #1000. good work man!

best design ever

Brother presur levers....are goog I liked it.... And will try it....

thank you man continuos

Thank you! Very nice content

thank you. Good job

很棒的設計！

yeah it's a good and cheap design, 3d printers use them alot.. most are with accentric nut but i have seen some with spring tension. obviously the only fault with spring tension is you can't have any load pushing on the spring. like in the example you showed if you load a spindle on that carriage it will push it up against the bottom wheels and can even drop the carriage from the rail. a way to counter that is have two rails with the tension wheels opposite of each other (two on top, two on the the bottom in your example). but that makes things more complicated which is why the accentric nut is the popular method.

What size v groove are you using many thanks for answering in afcance

Thank You

If you need to use counter sunk screws so the Heads are flat with the surface of the rail, you can drill and Tap a length of flat bar the thickness of the bolt thread to keep the thread strength. That way you don't have to worry about getting a nut and wrench down the inside of that long rail.

Thank you for the video DO you think that work on a setup that like the cross-cut set up the cross arm ties on one side

I haven't looked through all the comments, but i was wondering if anyone had mentioned how, while the idea of the tension-ed v-wheels is a good one, they probably wont' hold up to any back pressure on the Y-rails unless the mount on each side are reversed from each other. also, for an X-gantry, the spring loaded tension would probably not hold up to sideways pressure placed by cutting to the spring-loaded side of the v-wheel mount. i may be wrong, and i'll watch the further videos on this. keep up the great work, Russ from Coral Springs, Florida, USA

Keep the weight of the gantry as light as possible. A rigid aluminum extrusion would be the best. The less mass you have to move the sharper your corners will be. Cutting speed is everything when cutting light guage sheet metal. I have a quick overview of my cnc plasma table on my channel. Check it out. It might give you some ideas. My linear rail was made out of surplus stuff off of eBay. I didn't pay a lot for it. I like your rail system...I almost went that route but got a deal on my linear rails and it saved me a lot of work.

what kind of plate is this where I put the bearings ... would it be easy to find here in Brazil? This plate needs to be rounded on the bearing parts ...

your side plate could be put in a jig for plane ing awesome ideas thanks i'm going to copy your idea the top v grove may have more stability if they offset horizontally by the width of square tube now look what you've done thanks for the inspiration

we have a 5'x20' cnc plasma table at work from the late 90s and it has a 2x2 1/4" wall steel tubing on one side with 2"d * 3/4" rollers & on the other side there's a polished piece of bar or tubing. it's a lot less "precision" compared to other cnc machines, for plasma there is a wide margin of error, the servos are doing the precision work, not so much the guides.

Interesting project, I like your engineering philosophy. I will be following your design intently. I'm currently rehabbing my shop, when finished I will be working on my own system. I hope you don't mind if I copy some of your design ideas, I will of-course give full credit on my channel?

did you consider some of the extruded aluminium systems like like V-slot/C-beam? all that iron is going to be heavy to move around

Whose advertising do you have blacked out on your cap? LOL Put it on bottom bearings first, then raise it up and over the top rail. Great work on the rails. Good ideas employed. Always a pleasure to watch your videos, your always smiling.

I am planning to build a "hobby-grade" DIY 6040 sized CNC router, using a cheap 500W spindle, or trim-router. I had dismissed V bearings as probably having too much axial end float. Your carriages look better than I expected... could you please confirm they would not be a good idea for my application. Thanks for another really useful video, the explanation on your thought processes and feedback on how it worked out, is invaluable. Liked, subscribed some years ago.

its good idea i will try it put it is not Moving from place؟ spring i mean

I'm already watching video for the third time, there would be some video on how to fix screws

perfect, now I can sleep

Nice

"if you cant make It precise, at least make It ajustable" I know that reference :3

Great video! What is the part number and make of the bearing you used and where can I find them? Thanks!

Thank you Preston for sharing this! I am curious what brand of v-groove bearing you are using/recommend? And do you know what size bolt/axle it fits on? Thanks again! :)

hey after watching your videos it appears that you will only have one rail running between the 2 rails on each side. From your prototype of the head carriage are you getting any lash in the y direction on your x carriage or is the spring tension enough to keep that pivot out of play when the weight of the torch is hung on the side? I understand that the v bearings should take care of that im just wondering if they actually do. I love your design and your fusion work is great!

I assume this wouldnt work for a cnc router well? Just because any load on the bottom bearings from a pluge cut motion would cause flexing of the rubber band?

So I was wondering have you done any advancements on your design, that looked pretty good?

Would you think this rail design would work for a cnc router?

What screws did you use for the wheels?

may i ask what size v bearings you used?

DANKE

Wouldn´t it be easier to weld two "L" profiles on the top and bottom of the 2" square tube? Thanks.

U r great

I used to drill hundreds if not thousands of holes for aviation assembly. I was not one of the fabrication experts at all but I devised a little jig that allowed me to predrill the angle supports which wrapped around the inside of the fuselage. Perfect 1" OC holes. Used the same jig to slot one side of the angle that needed to flex with the fuselage radius. The business owner's father thought my jig was ingenius. But the owner and his pet fab expert didn't like it because they didn't come up with the idea. So they called me all kinds of nasty names. And I mean nasty. Horrible place to work. I also developed a bell crank in 15 minutes to solve their aileron dilemma that the designer had been working on for 6 months.

I like your design. You could simplify it by mounting all 4 bearings in the plate with the lower bearings near corners Then drill a hole above the lower bearings 3" back from each side and saw a slot from the side of the plate into the hole to create a flex arm. This would not be as adjustable as your design but the width of the flat stock should be close enough for the small flexure. Also a simple jig could be built to mount an angle grinder and pass the flat stock through to grind a consistent bevel on all 4 corners. PS. Your hand crank post drill looks a bit too high to use....

You would need to make the adjustment solid not a spring.. If you use a spring the entire gantry would lift unless the springs were much stronger than the weight shift of the gantry when it moves and stops.. A turnbuckle style adjustment would be far better as you could preload the beearings and it wouldnt have any give to it..

🤣🤣😂😍😘🥰 Nice dog I wish to have it sooo cute

you are a fucking genius!! thankss for the idea

supper

It seems that round linear rod would be a better choice than hot rolled plate with so many inconsistencies, twist, etc... for any amount of accuracy. Your tramm is so important unless your cutting tiny parts or working with wood where it may not matter so much any metal will show the rails inconsistency in the finished work. Those bearings are already used in purchased rail systems that use a offset screw head for tensioning and setting them precise where there is no forgiveness. Having used a plate of tool steel with precision ground edges you could significantly improve accuracy as well machining the mounting face of the square tubing before mounting. As someone stated the Chinese rails are cheap and probably a better alternative for what you’re investing. Long precision rails can be had for $70. Cost of metal these days and bearings would easily approach that cost. The premise is correct the implementation is not.

What a nice drill press. I totally support your efforts and to just say no to China man and his CNC products.

whats his website?

Isn't this exactly how CNCRP machines work

it feels like I am his CNC psychologist and he needs to just talk through his problems to me.

Lag