and maybe a drop cloth to mortar isnt staining the custo's driveway haha. i wouldve used a slightly smaller tuckpointer personally. from what i could see anyway. not there in person

And his tools are mot clean. Amateur hour. Does not explain proper grinding so as not to damage brick. He is wrong about not tooling joint. That forces mortar into the joint and compacts it properly. If you are not sloppy, you do not have to do an acid wash. In regard to flashing, acid reacts with metals. Jr. High chemistry. Worst thing is, NO PPE!!! That surgical mask is useless!!! Minimum is a well fitted N95 mask. Less effective if you have a beard. A rubber facepiece with proper filters even better. Best is full face shield respirator with filtered air feed. Also, ALWAYS use the guard on your grinder! Jesus, shocking how much schlock work is on the net! Mortar type and match is important also, particularly with older brick. Old soft brick is incompatible with portland cement mortars.

Thanks brother appreciate it!

Thanks

Agree . I am in desperate need of tuck pointing and repairing.

Amateur hour

Have you never bought mortar dye? It’s like $30-40 bucks for a little bag. Makes life easy brother

​@@nitchmoney6037 Not if you don't know how to use it. You can have the mortar analyzed for type and color.

This is not crack repair and lots of bad things happening here...OMG!

muriatic acid wash

Use 3:1 water and muriatic acid and scrub w Wood Handle Roof Brush. Then scrub with Silicon Carbide Rubbing Brick. Repeat scrubbing with acid mix and spray it off with water. Repeat if and where needed.

Cement needs to be strong in Northeast, which I am guessing he is as well... you can't use anything weaker or you will have no joints In a year. Freeze thaw is brutal. AND, the high Portland ratio reduces water permeability. Just have to keep it wet for a week to avoid cracking . And, no one uses drop sheets... it literally sweeps off. What doesn't sweep, hoses. What doesn't hose, grinds....

If your dropping enough to need clothes find a new game

Finally!!!!! Don’t have to waste my energy towards pointless comments. If only people knew what we knew 😁

​@@IannoneBuilding Incorrect. With some brick, high portland will cause spalling of softer older brick. Lime mortar is somewhat self repairing and "breaths". Too hard of mortar can cause major problems.

no shit, i was speaking in general terms referring to modern brick, laid in modern times, in the weather conditions of modern times, in the area of upstate ny. modern brick is hard and glazed/coated, or fired to a temp high enough to cause it to be very water resistant.... Now, when pointing or re-laying old soft bricks whether soft extruded or soft hand made, yes, certainly lime based mortars are the only acceptable option, and depending on where you are and what the exposure of the brick is will determine whether a quicklime hot mix, a quicklime hot mix with pozzoloan, a lime putty, a nhl 2, an nhl 3, or an nhl 5 would be your best course of action, but, once again, since the video was about modern brick, i was making a general statement regarding modern brick.... and, since the weather conditions are extreme here, that is actually the way it is specified. Additionally, lime mortar would not pass our code requirements unless it is used in the restoration of historic masonry structures. I know just a little about this, as I personally hate portland cement, and am one of the only historic masonry restoration outfits in this area, with most of my mentors being european, and research studies being my reference.... @@Jeff_New_Jersey

Yes play sand is actually really good to use. I like it a lot but it’s not practical for me since I use alot

I was taught to run the sand through a screen to eliminate larger pieces.

No play sand! Use mason sand.

​@@midwestbrickdoctor6670 NO! Playsand can have impurities. Use proper mason sand.

If it’s not copper and has some kind of coating over the metal roof your ok. But just to be on the safe side I would use it out of a sprayer and have constant running water on the roof where your chimney is. Also tarps may help just will be a pain

@@midwestbrickdoctor6670 Thank you so much! Have a good day

😭😭😭😭😭

I use Type S pre blended mortar and mix it with Portland cement. In my experience, preblended mortar is usually garbage and if I was good enough to make my own I would, but I’m not so my husband and I just add Portland cement (he’s not a brick guy and I had to learn for our business). Second, I do not recommend a grout bag if you want an aesthetically appealing wall when you’re done. There is way too much smudge and room for error with a sloppier mix. Just use the hawk and pointing tools, you’ll be thankful afterward for the minimal clean up. The mortar should be the consistency of a fresh bag of brown sugar.

Mortar type is not about color but final 28 day strength of the mortar. There are usually types M, S, O, N (comes from letters of Mason.) It has to do with sand to cement to hydrated lime proportions.

​@@Cheri434 Yes, a drier mix compared to mortar for laying brick is recommended.

Yes if your quik and neat there is definitely Money to be made especially doing chimney work. But if your a quick bricklayer there definitely money in that also. But more money in restoration work forsure. And there will always be work.

@@midwestbrickdoctor6670 more money in BRICK-POINTING all day long

Have you started you season yet?

@@midwestbrickdoctor6670 tommorw in Providence RI

Use 3 parts sand to 1 part cement and mix dry. Then slowly ad water until you get an thick oatmeal consistency. Let set for couple days then mix 3 parts water to once part muriatic acid. And wet wall and apply solution to work area. Let set for 30seconds and wash with water.

@@midwestbrickdoctor6670 In the vid you said 2 to 1.

I know I messed up. It’s 3:1

@@midwestbrickdoctor6670 Thanks for clearing it up. Maybe make a note in the description. I would have used the 2:1 ratio had I not read the comments. Nice vid btw.

I am experiencing the same exact issue matching the color. I am repairing a fieldstone wall and the existing color is exactly what you describe. In the past I have used regular type s mortar but it dries very grey, almost blue. Have you found a solution to properly match the color? I have been searching for this answer everywhere. This guy says he will tell you exactly what to use and where to get it but never says what the 2 part sand material is and where to buy it, what kind of masonry cement to use (is this just portland cement or something else). Basically the soecific info I was looking for haha.

@@sethfrancissimracing7558 The only way that I've found from supply places is to use white mortar mix or white mason's cement and then use sand that brings down the color. Guys who do this for a living like the guy in the video have buckets of various colored sand. I think you can also use tints when you mix premix but they come out too solid looking. So if you are using white mortar then yellow or brown sand it should tint it almost buff (sort of light beige). What I found with mine is if you acid etch the mortar and brush it the sand in the mortar will be exposed since you are basically dissolving some of the cement's "cream" that is at the top. I did this with a 20% muriatic wash and brush and it brought toned down the grey a lot. My dad used to basically "cook" the mortar with almost 100% muratic which is REALLY stupid because it makes the mortar brittle and it will crack. It made the mortar very yellow as well. On mine it cured a very light grey - not white or cream but tonal grey. If the sand was white it would have been more white. The sand in the Quikrete Commercial is yellow/tan sand. Much better in match when you acid wash it. If you mix the cement/sand mixture yourself I think it would come out better and then you don't have to hard acid wash it. Getting white here in St Louis is almost impossible - so far.

@@stim141 thank you very much for the reply! This is actually very helpful, I will be doing a repair on a stone wall tomorrow so when I go to the supply store in the morning ill see what materials I can find. Thank you again for the information!

@@sethfrancissimracing7558 he said type N cement. but in premixed mortars there are several colors... actually a dozen. you probably have the lighter color.. Not found at big box stores you need to go to a fireplace hearth supply where they have all the designer colors.

​@@sethfrancissimracing7558 Get a lab analysis fir color and mix

It’s the F’n way she goes Rand

@@midwestbrickdoctor6670 I watched this as a crash course to go do a sidejob and make three $20s but the job went sideways (we broke the garage) and no one got paid lmfaooo

Yes brothers masonry and tuckpointing out of oak lawn.

@@midwestbrickdoctor6670 thanks I just left a message. I can email pictures but I didn't see an email on the website. It's my mother's house that needs work.

@@aliriebjj text my cell with the info. 872-400-0985

2 1/2 parts mason sand or play sand to 1 part type N cement. Water as needed until oatmeal consistency

Mix sand and cement fry first then add water

@@midwestbrickdoctor6670 thank you for the prompt response my fellow tradesman. I see you guys out there as I instal tile. Your expertise has common ground with ceramic applications that I’m used to, so keep up the the thorough work and don’t forget to care for your own health in advance. You owe it to yourself and those you serve my friend.

Sorry brother. I just like to act like I’m a tuckpointer. Yes Iam a fake. You got me!

sure looked like tuck pointing to me…

@@bobwhelk2115 i guess it takes all kinds of people to make a world huh!👍

so when does your video drop?

@@RayFury pmsl are you for real?😂😂😂

Ummmm nah they dident pay for it 😎

Horrible work. Prewetting is required. Also, as of 2019 OSHA requires contractors to use dust extraction and proper PPE. This guy should get a fat fine from OSHA if post 2019...

2x joint width. Typical nominal 3/8" joints require 3/4" depth minimum...

The mortar will change colors as it dries and will lighten significantly over the following days.

​@@genecarden780 This is why you do a test, and let it cure at least 14 days.

@@Jeff_New_Jersey or in my case 10 tests😜

Always open to learning more. I was using a drill this year but leo and Youcef burnt it up already 😞

Gives a neat and clean appearance as well aas blends in the work so it’s not an eye sore

@@midwestbrickdoctor6670 thanks. I have to point my sister's house soon and I'm trying to get all the info I can. Good video

With some simple seo work and the video I recently posted it all came together and worked out well. Important things are a good description and title as well as tags and good content.

That day my sand was frozen in the morning I had to take it out to cut it up

Brickdoctor1999@gmail.com please email me

Brickdoctor1999@gmail.com

Me and many other masons I know have been using this mix for a very long time. That’s what I was taught on. I worked for a bunch of different people back then. Also after I wash it the work blends in perfectly every time. But I hear ya on why your saying that. I guess those are my ratios I know by nature. Where are you from ?

@@midwestbrickdoctor6670 yeah fair enough mate and England, we do it abit different over here 👍

@@midwestbrickdoctor6670 I’m from chicago. Point the exact same way you do. Every single thing. I’ve ever seen a trade done so different in each part of the world. Lately my mortar has been smearing. Turns the job to a nightmare. Thanks for the tip on that!!!! Should help me a ton. Your joints are super even and clean before you scrape to… I need to improve on that as well

@@-pschar4290 it all comes with time. Dont know how long you have been doing it but it’s a true art to master

@@midwestbrickdoctor6670 I'm pointing an outbuilding on my house thats from like 1900s...so, just a lot of mortar between a lot of larger rocks...no brick. Would you still use the 2:1 ratio for that type of structure? I'm in Milwaukee so I it'll be the same climate as IL. @pschar

Agree, and get yourself a spray bottle 😢 always have a damp sponge ready as you go.

I call that tuck pointing bc he’s pushing it straight off the hawk into the joint. I would never do it that way. I scoop it onto my tool than put it into said joint

@@nitchmoney6037hawking is much quicker

​@@nitchmoney6037 tuckpointing is a method that leaves a raised ribbon in the mortar joints. It isn't very common anymore, especially in North America.

The mix would be too wet and shrink, right?

Eso es me compania

@@midwestbrickdoctor6670 oh okay sigue para delante amigo. yo también trabajo en la construcción

Dirty tools is a non-starter...Next!