The burner has been installed for about 44 hours and shows no signs of build-up or slowing down! I can't thank you enough for watching and all of the comments! I hope you are having a great day! Subscribe now so you don't miss future videos!

lol Karl, glad to see you were wearing your safety sandals . A man cab never be too safe , I get yelled at for not wearing socks.

so what i did on my custom boiler is I had two flow meters for the oil. one set real low that ran just to keep the flame going at all times and then the other I used a 12v selenoid valve hooked up so when my shop calls for heat it opens up and I get a nice size fire going

Try to use the output housing side from a centrifuge water pump! It's the same idea you had with the flap you welded back up, only perfectly designed for better flow.

Looks like a great design, fast start and no smoke.

The ole eyecrometer, I like that, I may have to use that term myself

I love the videos brother. One thing I’d like to see is like this burner with a timer on say, a gallon of oil and a little more focus on the drip/stream size. Nice work man and I’m glad I’m subscribed 🤙🤙

great design ,

It's no good you can't put a cup on it to keep your tea warm. GEEEEZZZZ is that hot! ♨♨♨ Yeh I have a problem working out if blue is hotter, it's hot but you need to throttle the air down in the holes by making them smaller to get blue flames for some weird reason I found. The height of the pot also makes a huge difference. There must be a formula to work out so we can get blue flame as needed. Never seen a blue flame burner melt cans though, obviously you could but as to how good it is at it I dunno? The main advantage of blue flame is you get very little soot in a small system like mine but yellow is terrible for soot using a 4 inch pipe for exhaust. The burner you have hear will work even better and hotter under your boiler especially if you put a shield up to protect it from wind if its outside. Mind you if your blasting so much air into it you won't get any build up of soot to speak of I expect. I put a lid on mine with a cutout for the exhaust to escape from, this contained the heat within the pot which radiates out to the propane bottle it's in so the heat radiates out sideways more which is what my needs are and it was only when I put the lid on I manage to get blue flame, except the one burner but that is quite tall and has a wider diameter and that thing will burn with no visible flames! All in all you have made a fantastic burner, I think you underestimate yourself a little bit too much cus the results you come up with are fantastic!

Another way to get a blue flame might be to atomize the oil with high pressure such as a fuel injector instead of a drip, but probably not worth the expense especially with a diy burner. When the the sky is the limit on spending then you can make a purse out of a sows ear...or a waste oil burner into a rocket engine.

love it . built a jumbo version of your fireplace insert. hopefully test tomorrow but I have family with needs more necessary than mine . will see . best wishes to you

Give us a version of sound of silence on the end of one of your videos,who knows might make you famous

would love to see how this might work with NO forced combustion air fan. Wondering with your heated air set up, if this will create a draft that self feeds the cumbustion air. Maybe one test wih no forced air at any time from cold start up, to running good.....AND- another test of use forced air to get it going and hot...... THEN... remove fan and use only draft to suck combustion air in.

Gonns go to first now

I'm hoping your new design will work long term for you. You have been testing a lot of different designs.

Just clarifying what you did......... 1. the bottom is an "air pot" / heat exchanger that is surrounding burn chamber and sealed from the burn chamber 2. Air fed into "air pot " gets heated via hot, burn chamber walls.. 3. heated air consequently fed into burn chamber 4. oil feed is embedded into the hot air feed into burn chamber and its tube end is just below of end of air tube. 5. oil feed gets heated by hot air path created by sequence of things in 1,2 ,3 above. are their any mods to end of oil feed tube.....or is it open

I'm watching this again with keen interest. I don't understand the air supply arrangement, if the inner pipe and outer pipe have a space between them, you could do away with the central pipe with holes in. You could put the holes in the inner pipe, have the air supply as it is so the air would enter from the sides instead of the tube. I made a smaller version of a similar design using baby formula containers so it would be flimsy and not last long becaaaaaause it burns mega hot! That hot I abandoned the idea! Not because it was unsafe or anything like that but it would destroy the burn chamber in no time, however your big rig would easily withstand it. You obviously can't unweld the rig you have made now but if you could replicate it again but put 3 rows of 1.5mm holes around the walls of the inner pipe you will probably need your welding mask to see the flames they will be that bright, blue even depending on how much air you give it. Mayb3e 2-3mm holes but start small then go bigger if needed. I would not weld the inner pipe before testing though as you may need to adjust the size of the holes, once your happy weld it all up and you have a monster system!

Appreciate your hard work! Took me a minute to figure out what you're doing there. Looks like you've created a manifold down towards the base of your burn chamber. The air goes into the manifold. Pre heats in the manifold and then enters your fuel nozzle...is that right?

Do you have a video how you built the burner

I think the blue flame burns cleaner. But you’re going to be burning outside and that is not as big a deal.

What about hanging a tin bucket of dry sand above it

People that scour youtube trying to play osha are way weirder than us rockin safty sandals in our garages.

Burners can be "efficient" burning hot with a lot of oil. The efficiency level has nothing to do with the volume of oil, really. Small or large burners can be inefficient if there's wasted fuel or gas going up the chimney that doesn't get burned. Something that's say 80% efficient (big or small) is basically blowing 20 cents on the dollar up the chimney. How many BTUs can you extract over time, given a certain quantity of fuel with a known BTU per pound, gallon, square foot, whatever is the actual measure of efficiency. If you need a lot of heat, you're going to need a lot of oil. No getting around that regardless. I know what you were trying to say though, and I think most other people do to. Not baggin' on ya, just making a point.