Thank you sir! It’s usually running about 18 hours a day from December to March. Love this thing. A bigger window would be cool too

I suspected as much, in 4 years maybe one or two times I had it smolder up into the hopper. Just a little smoke smell. Used a rod to cajigger it and it’s all flowed again. Luckily there’s such a draft 90% of the smoke was being pulled from the hopper through the stove anyway

It’s real nice having the option of switching back. I didn’t want to commit to pellets because there’s so much free wood around soo, now I have the best of both worlds. This style is better than a real pellet stove too. My friends stop working during power outages when you need heat the most. Kinda a perfect situation for this. If you have a removable door on your stove anything is possible!

@@ecophage I will have to show this video to my crafty friends and see what they can come up with.

No problem thanks for watching!

Possibly shrinking the basket or scooting the ramp forward can also adjust pellet flow ease which can contribute to excessive flame. But yes should definitely be able to cut air completely off through the basket especially for safety incase it gets too crazy Thanks!

@@ecophage I did make the basket adjustable. I did make my grates like yours. I can move them forward, that did slow the burn down some. When I close the draft down it just makes a dirty burn. I think you are right making the basket shorter. Thanks for your help Mark

I have made a new set of grates. The old grates we're at a 45 deg. angle. The new grates are at a 30 deg. angle. This has given me much more control over the size of the flame. By moving the grates in or out you can control your flame. Not closing down the air much.

That's a great idea!

Good info thx

possibly, theres always some trade off. like itll not flow right or something, but obviously within range like +/- 10 degrees probably fine to play with

Absolutely I think it’s similar to some wood pellet smokers. I think 1/8th but it could be 3/16” and kinda looks like it in the video

Henry Rollins! I saw you in concert in Portland as a teenager! Haha jk, 4” would be fine I think the issue might be like burn mass so keep a downsized burn box maybe although sounds like you could use a lot of heat. So it might be okay with a big 4” wide basket. I’d make sure the pellets are like somewhat obstructed as they feed In because 4”x4” of pellet mass would be heavy. The 45 degree bends, and keeping direct drops length down to a minimum keep that weight from crushing your burn pile prematurely. Make sense? Like a straight shot might be heavy and push slightly burnt pellets through but 1-2 45s before the basket interrupt the flow and chain react the pellet cycle. I might also make some of the part modifiable so if you find 4” is crazy (because sometimes the relight on this this is slightly violent. Like a pop flame into the house 4”) that scaled up might be dangerous. So you may find yourself hacking it to narrow the neck right before the burner plate. But if you made that spot bolt together then you could alter it easier. Interesting, I haven’t used my stove in a few weeks as it warmed up here. But just now I was standing at it relighting it because it’s 50f out and cold in the house again! 😂

@@ecophage Thanks for your answer! 😀 I'm not the real H.Rollins, i just can't use my real name on the web 'cause of HHRR police in the company i work for...😡 You know... Having the posibility to increase or decrease the size of the chute/pipe is a really good idea from you, i will implement it...! And yes, i will use that 4x4" but will make it end like yours...something around 4x2". Thanks you very very much..! 😀🇦🇷✌🏾

45 degrees and yes probably be more powerful

They shouldn’t block the flow. Pellets are loose enough air can flow through them enough to start the burn. However my stove does have an air inlet on the bottom that vents up right in front of the door. It’s possible this is helping facilitate the burn assuming your chamber is air tight. I might try the stoke tube vent method in my last update to help get everything going!

Okay thanks. I was thinking maybe I made the basket too deep.

If I had to guess/average it (obviously depends on outside temp) but say below freezing 20 lbs a day maybe, a bit less than regular pellet stoves I think, my friends say they put a whole bag a day in their regular pellet stoves. I think the most I’ve done is 3/4 of a 40 lb bag

They do fill the box, do you have sufficient draft? Do you have sufficient air opening from the backside of the burner plate? A smoldering pile of pellets resting against a burner plate having air drawn through it due to draft from the chimney causes the cyclical situation needed.

I also suppose either to long of a box the pellets may not be getting automatically “stoked” or lack of the steel plate on the bottom of the basket may cause the embers to fall out prematurely? Something like this finagly about the location of the ember pile could also effect it? Also watch your fire, does it burn away? Do pellets freely fall down compacting the embers and relighting themselves every 5 minutes? If not it’s the suuuper common pellet flow obstruction

I have one 3/4 hole and one 3/4 half hole behind burner plate but because of the draft issue i completely cut it off. So now I have a 4x2 opening. The stove is not installed so I just have a 24" long double wall 3" straight pipe directly out of the top. I used the same 1/2" flat turned on its side concept for both the burner plate and the bottom of the basket. I sent some early pics to your Instagram but can send more current pics

@@dakotadavidson2805 yeah I’m pretty confident it’s a draft issue I think you need more than 3 feet of chimney plus you may need to get a draft started with a torch like it mentions in the wiseway pellet stove videos. That hot air rising from the torch pulls in the air behind it stoking the fire kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gdCpmZeVp7zNmZc.html

Thanks ill add some more pipe. Do you think it being 3 inch pipe hurts? Should I try 6 inch? I have tried to start the draft with a torch with no success

What makes you think mine needs to be three times the size? It runs my wood stove up to 475 degrees at the far end of acceptable burn temperature. What possible use would increasing the size do except start chimney fires?

@@ecophage it helps people feel better about themselves when they pick apart other peoples ideas. Keep up the good work.

I ran a bead of weld all along the backside mid way up to keep them in place, so far no deviation at all the bars are still straight. Plus being straight isn’t the important part. It’s not having lateral lines to bind on. Waving shouldn’t bind up pellets. The bars seem to be robust enough to dissipate their heat into the stove themselves too

Not to mention nothing else really warps. The old burner plate had about 1/2” of 1/8th thick steel keeping it together unsupported so it’s no wonder it warped. This one has like 100x the strength. Each bar is 1/2” THICK in the axis sagging would happen. X like 8 or ten bars and the stand off bar holding the top plate up in place. I could literally park a car on this burner plate

ahh yes, The only part ive had degrade is the expanded steel in the flames path out

I’ve always had creosote from burning wood. I never heard of zero creosote before Hmm a google search returns “while a pellet stove is more efficient than a regular fireplace or wood stove, it isn’t completely creosote free”