Thanks! I’m becoming a bit of a resin junkie...

Thanks! It's a marathon! Positive feedback is really what makes it worth it!

You are very welcome! I hope you found some or all of it useful!

Thanks for watching and I’m glad you found it helpful. I can’t paint characters fast enough to really populate a campaign but I can make a whole lotta tokens. All the best!

Luiz Gustavo thanks! Glad you enjoyed.

Thanks! Yes! Who knew there were giant punches out there? So many crafty tools. Happy gaming! Cheers!

Thanks! The glass cabochons add a lot but that means they also don't stack. That's the price for a bit of zing I guess. Cheers!

@@RandomMakingEncounters Thanks! Subbed.

You bet! Happy gaming!

Andy Bourré nice tip! Permanent, affordable, and a range of colors!!

Absolutely! The wooden tokens have a bit of a bevel to them so you’d need to follow that inner edge but it would absolutely work. Maybe print with a bit of extra so you don’t have to be as precise when gluing. Thanks for the idea! Cheers!

Thanks for the feedback! I hear ya! It's really hard. No matter what I try I can't seem to get them to be really short. It's a balance between showing too much information and too little. Thanks again for the input and thanks for watching!

It’s not a huge amount of work but it absolutely adds some additional ways for things to get really messy. One other thing that I didn’t really think about is the fact that they don’t stack at all with the glass cabochon. Sometimes less can be more! Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!

Great question and probably not mentioned in the video... I tend to forget to add a LOT! It depends on the size you're making and if you want to cover them with the glass cabochons. If you use cabochons, I used both 20mm and 30mm. For both, I would make the images slightly smaller by maybe 1 or 2mmm or about 1/16th of an inch so they don't extend beyond the glass. If you're just gluing to the wood discs and putting a top coat down, you want to make them somewhere between 1/8" or 1/4" smaller than the diameter of the disk. One final tip or trick... you can find big circle punches at craft stores in the scrapbooking section. If you can find one that is about the size of the cabochon or slightly smaller, it makes punching the images out really fast! Hope that helps! All the best!

For medium creatures, around one inch (25mm) if not a little bigger, ideally leaving a border around the image to have some margin of error. You can go bigger with larger creatures (so, around 50mm for a large creature).

There are a variety of sizes of both the cabochons and the wooden discs. The easiest thing is to scale up. 2" is roughly 50mm... at that size, cabochons start to get a little more expensive. A standard token would be one 1" square...ish. Huge is maybe 2x2 and colossal 4x4? 2x2 is still doable with a 2" wooden disc and a 40mm cabochon without breaking the bank. If you go colossal, 4" diameter discs aren't too spendy but it would be hard to find a cabochon in the 3.5" range that would be a good price... or even available. I might just switch to printing a bigger picture and then giving it a good varnish. If you do any terrain building, you might have some Mod Podge kicking around. If you were feeling really ambitious and wanted to get this effect, you might be able to find or make a silicone mold and cast larger clear resin cabochons yourself. I found some large spheres for paperweights. It would need to be much larger than your 3.5" desired size because you only want to pour maybe up to 1/3 of 1/2 of the sphere so the curve of the cast isn't too extreme. The easiest way to to figure out how big is to just draw a big circle and eyeball. I'm sure there is some great geometry formula to calculate this but... art major here. Alumalite casting resin is easy and low odor and would probably work as 1 pour at this size. A resin cabochon would look almost identical but would be more prone to scratches. Hope that helps! Happy gaming!

@@RandomMakingEncounters Thanks man It is so nice of you too take the time to answer my question. I'll definitely use this some day :)

Sorry for the slow response. I used "photo paper" which is a little heavier and gives you a bit better resolution. Generally, regular bond paper has a pretty absorbent surface so the ink tends to soak in and the details soften. Normal photo paper, either matte or gloss, can be thicker but the big difference is the surface has a coating that lets the detail and color really stand out. If you get good results with your printer on the paper you're using, it might work. One other small consideration is the UV cure resin is, at least for a short bit, a liquid. It will absorb into the paper so there may be some darkening with porous papers. In this application, thicker paper isn't necessarily a benefit. Hope that helps, thanks for watching and happy making!!

Sorry for the late reply... life has been life. The key takeaway is to be respectful of people's work and not profit from it fer sher! Credit where credit is due! Thanks for the comment and happy gaming!! Cheers!

Right!?! I seem to think there's something like that too. Happy to hear it worked out. These are so handy when you need a bunch of things, want them to look nice, and don't have any desire to paint an army of minis. So many encounters are "more than one thing is attacking you" and these are quick enough you can really churn 'em out if you need to without breaking the gaming bank! Happy adventuring!