Adding front chains ONLY ... the tire chains will change the diameter of the front tires. It will change the ratio of front tire to back tire. So, yeah, on hard concrete it will stress the drivetrain... However, chains in snow or dirt will shift and slip enough not to hurt a pretty robust 4wd setup. Heck, if you pick up a load in the FEL bucket, the weight of the load changes the diameter of the front tires. No one cries about that. Had front chains only on Kabota 3000 series for 10 years. No issue

I know this is a little older, but I was recently doing research on this very topic because I just got a new tractor with 4WD. In fact, this video was one of the things I found. I have been clearing my driveway with snow blower on a tractor for 24 years and have always seen the same slippage on the front wheels that you show in the video depending on the conditions. After a time I started using chains on the front, but without 4wd I didn't need to worry about what adverse effect chains on the front would have on the tractor. As stated by someone else, the front wheels turn faster than the rear and they are meant to spin/slip slightly, they are not meant to provide significant force to move the tractor and the front wheel dive is meant more to aide in steering (or so says my manual.) Yes, they do provide a little extra force, but they are not meant to be the main driving force of the tractor. If one of your rear wheels spin preventing movement that's what the differential lock is for. If both rear wheels spin when using the dif lock then you're just asking too much of the machine and you need a bigger one. It says right in my manual that using 4WD on roads or on hard dry surfaces "will wear the front drive tires and possibly cause drive-line damage". In other words, anything that prevents this intended slipping could cause damage. Chains biting in would stop this intended slippage. Maybe it will take a long time, maybe not, depending on how hard you push your machine. So while the owners manual does not say not use chains on the front or mention anything about possible damage to the drive-line by using chains on the front, directly, it does say it indirectly. I also looked into other options for the front wheels including wheel weights and filling them with ballast. These also will increase traction on the front and prevent the intended slippage from the front wheels turning faster than the back. Filling the tires would actually be worse than wheel weights because the weight is directly on the ground. These would also provide less weight on the front end than my FEL provides so would not help much anyway. Someone else mentioned using chains but not using 4WD. This is a possibility, but then you've defeated the purpose of having a 4WD machine. To me this is not an option. I got the 4WD for a reason and while I thought before getting it that the reason was to help propel the tractor I see now that it is as an aid to steering with only a small addition to driving strength. I have some pretty aggressive chains for the back. I don't think I'll have any problem moving. So the question is, and the question you asked is, how do you stop the tires slipping sideways as shown in your video? I'm going to go back to what I did on that 2 wheel drive tractor before I started using chains on the front when the wheels started slipping. Slow down and make wider turns. I found that not turning tightly on turns was the key to keeping the front wheels from sliding sideways. How tight I could make turns was directly dependent on the conditions I was working in at the time. It also meant that at times I needed to make 3, 4, 5 or more point turns instead of making a single turn to get moving in the direction I wanted to go. It all comes down to slowing down and taking more time to make turns to get the job done when the conditions are bad.

I’ve been running chains on the front end of my 4WD tractor since the early 1980s. I’ve got a 1980 Long 610DT. No issues with the drive train in 40+ years.

I have a Kubota L 3901. I have front and rear chains on my tractor and have had no issues. My dealer said you can put chains on front and back, or Just the back. Never put the chains only on the front tires of the tractor. My dealer said that only having chains in the front of the tractor will damage the front axle because it's doing the heavy majority of the pulling and pushing of the snow.

I have a JD 1025r, chains on rear, but have traction problems while both pushing and pulling snow. Even when I weight the front end with a bucket full of snow I can get to where I’m just pushing my front tires and they stop steering me. I’ve read other forums about the chains being close to hydraulic and brake lines and if the chain were to shift or pop a small distance you could do serious damage. However you could negate that by simple 2” wheel spacers. My spacers are ordered and once I have them on I’m gonna give chains a try.

Ok so let's say you are using your loader in the summer loading dirt. You drive into the pile and put up pressure on the loader for more front traction. Doing that puts a tom of pressure on the front axle and if there's good traction sometimes you can actually stall the tractor. Now think about your tractor in snow or ice with chains on the front. There is nowhere near enough traction to stall the tractor. I dont see how chains on the front could ever bite harf enough to do damage and if the front breaks it was junk to begin with.

Thanks for sharing this. I bought chains for the front on my new tractor just for backup. Laws here in Norway require us to bring them with us if it involves driving on the roads during winter.

I've read a bunch of comments here, pro and con, but I have yet to read a comment where someone actually broke their front axle. Many comments saying they've never had any trouble.

I am late to the game but I put chains on all four tires of my four-wheel-drive Mahindra and within 48 hours I busted the ears of my front axle shafts and u- joints. It then cost me $5 to $6000 to upgrade to better shafts in my axles and non u-joint shafts. 3 different mechanics from 3 different shops said the same, “Plowing with chains on front is a recipe for carnage and something has to give and that will be your axles “ That up grade had to be decided within the same week I bought it … it was covered if I used the same inferior parts or upgrade and never deal with it again. I upgraded

I have front and rear chains on my mahindra for 3 years now. no issues, to me there is still enough slippage, even on dry dirt or typical dirt i use 4 wheel drive to get traction, i cant see that being any more allowance for slippage than chains in snow. if i were carrying full buckets of dirt around without snow on the ground with chains then i just put the lever in 2wd mode. no snow with chains on front, i just use 2wd.

i have chain only on front of my b3030 kubota and no problem...i would like some for the back too,,,or some kind of stud or screw in it....

If chains for the front wheels damage the driveline components, the Operator's Manual would tell you - my Kubota 2650's manual doesn't say anything about front chains will cause damage. No one wants to buy anything from an idiot so the salesmen have to sound smart. And when people want to sound smart they typically say something that doesn't make sense and when you question them with basic interrogatives (who, what, when, where, how or why) they'll give you some B.S. answers or they'll get mad at you until you stop asking. They'll also use some kind of confabulated story to support their claim. I worked many years with a "salesman" who would lie to your face and then convince you that you're wrong when you proved he was lying - and he would continue believing he was honest - it's really some kind of anosogonostic sickness.

My New Holland dealer said it's not a problem. I had them on before I dropped the big bucks for rear tire chains. You do have to size them carefully and get them tight as they can catch onto the gear cases if not fit well.

maybe the steel 'cable' type would allow some slippage but yet give you a fraction more lateral bite to help with steering ... just a thought

Yep I heard the same thing... But I plan on researching it more

Are you running front chains on it this year? I just got a dk4210se and made a set yesterday for the front tires

I've never had a problem running front chains on my kubota, Oh my chevy 4 wheel drive pick up

Hey Sandy, my dad has a CK30 that he runs chains on all 4 wheels on year round, the tractor is 100% on gravel, dirt, topsoil, so he can still get slippage when need through normal driving conditions during non ice and snow months when in 4WD. he also does not have loaded tires. Anyways he’s ran it this way for I think approximately the last 4-5 yrs an no issues thus far. Thanks for sharing! Cheers!

I have a kubota L48 and run chains on all 4 ,cleaning snow and skidding big pine out of the Bush usually with my foot on the diff lock all the way. Been 5 years and haven't had any issues. Had studs in before I started skidding logs and they worked great on the hard pack. Grip studs were the brand take them in and out with a drill

Thanks for the video. Rev.14:6-12

Well i was thingking the same way about installing chain on the front tire but if it is for slipping tire well if you work only on 2x4 with chain should be not a problem unless you got stock engage in 4x4x to get out and reengage on 2x4. Well it's my opignon , i got the same problem about front slipping tire. I will try it out next winter.

I tend to agree with your Kioti dealership. I’ve never had chains on my Dk45 I just run R1 tires but we don’t have the winters you do. Did you ask them why they didn’t recommend them? I’m interested to know.

Treat your tractor with front chains the same way you would a pick up. You only enguage 4wd in low traction conditions or you can wear out the transmission more quickly. You can normally tell you have too much traction (as in you dont need 4wd) as you feel or hear the tires scrubbing when you turn at low speed. With chains its similar, you will even be able to see the ground being torn beneath shallow snow or in clear areas. If you keep an eye on this and also the times you slide around or loose traction completely you will end up with good feel of when to engage and disengage 4wd. A tractor with rear chains will go alot further before you need 4wd and is almost always enough when your in transit. Once you start working if your front starts flapping around or you start spinning the rear as it is unloaded (for example when doing loader work), put 4wd and get on with the job. The tractors are made to work afterall. Cheers for the video. Paul

Think about it. In summer times, you probably use the 4x4 from time to time. Even on fully grippy ground, everything is going fine. I really don't see how adding traction in the winter could be different. You got a front differential and as long as it does its job, it will be alright. For miself, i use traction studs on all 4 wheels. I really like them even if they're a real pain in the ass to put on and off every season change.

Kioti is the only brand that i'm aware of that maintain the warranty with front chains. I got all 4 corners on my DK45SE. Kubota and John Deere won't honor their warranty if there is a problem on the front if you are using front chains.

Can you please tell me about your rear camera set up thats a great idea for watching the snow blower on the rear! Thanks

This is a good topic. I have a Kioti CK2610. Going to get chains for the rear but also thought about the front also. Still not sure about the front. Here is my 2 cents, I bought this tractor about 4 months ago. And at that time one of the questions I had was asked to the salesman, who has his own Kioti CK 3510. He said that rear chains were fine but not to chain up all 4 tires. He had a guy do that and did some real damage to some part of the drive train, I am going to get a hold of the mechanics that got my tractor ready for me and see what the recommend. The guy that sold me the tractor was not their mechanic. He was the salesman who sold me this awesome orange tractor..Good Luck on finding the right answer,,cheers to ya

I am not a mechanic, but i would question the opposition of this with a couple questions. 1.Ok, if it causes undue stress on the front axle when in four wheel drive mode, what about in two wheel mode instead? 2. The reason is if the applied power to axle with chains is bad, why is it not equally harmful to the back axle when throttle is applied?”

Never used chsins on my 33d newholland. But i use the turf tires for plowing snow. I found they have way more traction on ice an snow even light mud

assumption that you never run front chains on a 4x4 vehicle if the front axle isnt a solid front (aka gm's with there driveline setup) Also I think the chain type is criticle, traditional square link ladder chains do allow for some slipage or play, were as the diamond studded will bite to hard,

I think its a feature, split your brakes and you'll almost be able to rotate in place with 4wd on a hard slippy surface like your driveway. I've got a open station 2011 DK40SE and love it, good size and weight for what I do anyways.

Just purchased some for the back tires was afraid to get them for the fronts but they do sell rubber chains they basically are rubber strips instead of chains

I run nothing but front chain never had an issue

I run 4 studded forestry chains all winter with no problem. As long as you using 4wd only in snow, icy or muddy conditon you are fine. Be careful in condition with good traction but i think a solid build tractor should handle that.

I just put a video out yesterday on chains lol. I run chains on the front all winter long. If it’s really icy out I will put the rear chains on and run in 2wd until I need 4wd. Then when I’m out I put it back in 2wd. I do the same for my plow trucks. I always chain up the front first and add chains the rear as needed. I have never broken anything with chains on. If you get rammy jammy you could break things. My 2 cents, Mitch

Would have been a good idea to have them explain why or how it would do damage. Maybe it was damage to the rims or tires under a fluctuating load.

Ran chains on all 4 tires of a John Deere 2720 4x4 . For years . It had Turff tires . Put wheel spacer kit on front also . Never ran it in 4 x4 mode on hard frozen dirt ground or on concrete . Ice / snow / mud / soft ground no problem . Never had a issue . One must use common scents and make sure in 4x4 you a have a surface with slippage . 👍 I have also used hex sheet metal screw in industrial tread s . Great for ice

The only way to keep damage from occurring and prevent a good portion of slipping when turning is only 1 front tire with chains "IN 4WD." This allows the other tire to slip without causing extra stress on the front, but the tire with chains will provide the needed traction when turning. Otherwise, as others have stated in 2wd, chains on both front tires shouldn't be an issue.

Have you considered getting a firewood bucket for your tractor? Mike over at the Outdoors with the Morgans channel got one and he loves it. Go check out some of their videos of it being used.

So here is what it comes to basically, you have to drive differently with chains on especially on the front axle no hard sharp turns and no wheel spinning while in a turn simply because the differential is not made for it. Chain up all 4 wheels and leave it in 2wd for the most part because the ONLY reason to have chains on the front is to maintain steering control not powered traction. Too many people get in way too big of a hurry especially when its cold outside plowing snow. Take your time and if your are cold take a break and go inside, if you are too cold that means you are stiff and slow to react and that 1 second delay could mean the difference between life and death or serious injury. Going slow, steady and careful has kept me alive using a tractor since I was 7-8 years old and driving that old Ferguson 30. Got a Kubota 2501 now and sometimes wish I still had the old Ferguson.

Hey Sandy yes it could damage at work we used a front loader for snow removal and we would only put chains on the front two tires. We put them on the front because all the Weight would be on that front tires. If you were going to use your front loader you could put on Front chain only

Did you load the tires with Rimguard?

I was given the same advice from my dealer when asking about chains up front. They said don't do it. I think the "solution" you are looking for lies in your split brakes. Good use of your brakes will make your front end go anywhere you want. Good luck and be safe.

I drive with chains on my Valtra four months a year whithout some problems.

Never thought chains could ruin the front 4wd axle. Hmmm I'll be watching the comments on this topic.

I've ran chains on all 4 wheels of 4x4 tractor. Never have had any problems. I have ran tire chains on all 4 wheels of my pickup

We have R1 tires. We only put chains on the back. I do not worry about slippage on the front. Your R4 tires are different than our R1. That might be a part of the issue and slip more.

Why not just use the split brake pedals to help turn.

I run front tire chains on my kubota 2501 I haven't had any problems.

Unlock the rear diff? That's why tractors used to have one brake for each rear wheel. It was good for steering.

My kubota dealer said no chains no ballast on the front

I don't know BUT I can under stand why it could damage the gears.

Hi there With the side of the logs Make a 3 side building To keep or equipment dry Have a good day you do good stuff Be safe 👍👍👍🇺🇸

Still trying to answer this question for myself, but from what I have read the MFWD actually lead the rears (aka they usually propel the tractor 5%ish faster to try to pull the tractor out of slippery situations which generally isn't a problem because one of the wheels can slip) so if you are getting lots of traction in the front with chains and lots of traction in the rear it causes binding in the driveline. This is especially true since the front tire wears faster than the rear tire, do to many more rotations. Basically to sum it up you wouldn't want to run your truck in 4wd on dry asphault because it would bind up (it may last a few years but it's not great), the same is true with the excess traction of the chains.

I know a guy locally who runs around on the road with front chains. I wouldn't do it... Lift up some weight with bucket, bam, traction.

Personally that's why I bought a Kubota four wheel drive tractor so I won't have to mess with tire chains ever again and I don't have a problem.. no matter what winter snow conditions.. screw them tire chains pain in the ass

put some snow tire on the front nokian aliance 550 or whatever

Never been around tire chains. So I do not know

Physics…..steel does not grip pavement nearly as well as does rubber. So running in 4 wd on anything more yielding than pavement will impose less load on gears. BUT, tire chains are inherently lumpy and they slip and grab so they will impose dynamic loads. So i expect that 4 wd chains will be tolerated by gears except in grabby condtions. In grabby spots, say ice crust on snow with underlying ground frost, i would run at slow speeds to lessen the effects of slip grab spin. Not using 4 chains in 4 wd mode makes a compact tractor no better than a lawn tractor. I do have a toro lawn tractor with a snoblower, in Maine, and without front chains it is unsteerable. Handles bad conditions marginally and does not handle ice crust. I have added 600 pounds of scrap steel to rear. BTW wheel weights and liquid in tires are no more effective than weights on the centerline. Gravity does care about the shape of the weight…..just keep weights low so they lessen tipping on side hills

statet tires

The advice you took from the dealer (don't do it) doesn't make sense to me, maybe you should have asked "why". You see in this day and age seldom, if ever do you ever hear anyone ever say "I don't know". They always want to sound smart so they'll say anything - then when you ask why - they'll get mad. Thats how you know your dealing with an id iot.

if 1 guy is saying dont do it, then dont do it. These machines (as you may or may not know) cost more than a bathroom renovation to repair lol

3/4" hexhead screws into the tread will allow you the turning grip you desire.

Let's apply some common sense. I see they sell tire chains for the little 15 horse lawn tractors with the cheap aluminum trans axles with bronze bushings instead of bearings. Doesn't seem to bother them. How are chains going to bother the hardened steel gears in that cast iron front end under your tractor. I've seen the gears in my John Deere 4320 front end, it's equivalent to a 10" ring and pinion. Granted the drive shaft could be a little more stout but that's before the reduction. If chains don't bother a cheap little trans axle I don't think they will bother the 5000 lb rated front end. Looking forward to responses

Just use 1 front chain and you’ll be fine