I am organising a follow up ton to this video. What questions do you want answered by the owner of this system?

Looks like an proper engineer designed this system. Love the thicker plates, proper connection between pipe and alu-plate, narrow distance between piping, and a good size on the pipes. This is not a cheap system to produce, but in the long run this should allow the heatpump to run very cheap.

follow-up video would be awesome. Just to know if the product really delivered on its promise.

I’ve fitted 16mm pipe on top of 100mm PIR, battened 25mm on top, then infilled with a semi dry screed throughout my house. It’s topped with 18mm OSB and then LVT. We have been through a winter with it and it’s kept us warm in our semi renovated bungalow. 50mm pir insulated plasterboard throughout too. Open loop system with Daikin altherma monoblock 8kw. Spacings are around 130mm, three pipes per joist bay. Curve set at 36c @ -2. Daikin heat pumps have a sort of minimum operating temperature so the curve is fairly shallow.

Give your staff a tip. Looks like they work hard! 👍🏼😁

Looking forward to the follow up & seeing if it achieves the 70w/m. Great call on the extra rad to enable the lowest possible floor temp. Labour intensive indeed...at least you know now for next time!

another great video. never stop being impressed by your team's dedication :)

Hi, great work & big fan of the channel as a plumber started in 1988. In my house I have installed 100mm Celotex between the joist (20mm below top of the joist to allow heat circulation and to avoid hot spots). Covered with pre-routed 22mm OSB (16mm pipe 150mm space), then covered the osb with 6mm Hardie backer board (good heat transfer & mass). Finished with 16mm engineered oak floorboards. All works great! Look forward to the follow up video!

Good idea on keeping the extra rad. A nice way to hit good efficiency on a retrofit job.

Hey Szy! Great video mate! Love your stuff ❤

I am new here on your channel and I like your videos, Professor

Brilliant, your best video yet!

Thank you, very good.

Great video - i always learn new stuff. I have 5 zone small bore uf (nu-heat contraflow) layed in screed. Currently uses a oil boiler with a buffer tank for uf. If only I could find someone like yourself who could do a full analysis of the heat demands and design a system to move to a heat pump while maintaining the existing floor pipework where i live.......

Nice job! 👍🏼

Great videos man. Do you fill your systems with tap water or destiled water?

Great job. That looks like it’s probably a 1960s Crosswall house.

Great informative video. What are your thoughts on the cement based dry screed panels? (such as thermrite etc)

Very good system, my parents have Jupiter UFH in their self build and it works at very low flow temps, even with carpets and wood floors. Most of the year it runs under 30c and it never needs to go over 40c even when it's freezing. But given that this is apparently a full house refurb, I'm astonished that the customer didn't instead insulate & plasterboard the external walls. The cost savings on the heating system (using cheap & quick standard overlay panels, and a smaller HP) should have covered most of the cost for the insulation, if not all of it, and then you have the energy savings on top. I'm guessing they didn't want to loose any floor space for insulation, but they will now be paying for those few inches year on year.

As usual a great video easily explaining the way to design and install low temperature heating. Hope you get the output for the panels, the insulation under the pipe looks like just 10mm. 👍 I’m surprised by the cost, I usually like a solid floor and screed, like you say, 2-3 hours to lay the pipe, job done!

Please do a video on underfloor/wall heating+cooling; that would be great!

Have tried just putting pir between the joists 25-30mm below the joists then putting a thin screed in I've been doing this for 20 years (on low temp) and always got good results. The only thing i would advise the customer if fitting hardwood keep below 18mm thickness

Interesting solution. What would you do if the system did need to run at 55 degrees celcius? Maybe a tile floor can handle that, but I don't see a PVC floor holding up well.

Hi there. Just finished your video. I like the idea of not having a buffer on the system. How many start stop session do your setup have doing a heating season? I put in a Nibe ground source heat pump myself June of last year. I have had 685 start-stop sessions. Witch in my mind is what takes ekstra energy and have skates wear and tear on the compressor. Really like your videos. Greetings from Denmark.

Great videos. What are your thoughts about having the hot water cyclinder / plant room outside the insulated envelope of the house, say in an uninsulated garage?

Great video again. Presumably the hardwood (?) floor covering in the lounge can stand being in direct contact with pipes at 43 degrees?

yep a follow up vid would be very good

I can see the advantage of the straight sections with aluminium heat plates but if there are to be tiles over would not the nonaluminium areas that you had to route specially be better with your other under grout plastic clip system or just fed mid air and then the dry grout system you mentioned for tiles over the aluminium but just filling around the pipes and levelling to the rest. I would have thought that would be quicker to install with better heat transfer than the alternative you showed of fibre board routed without the aluminium heat exchanger?

Interesting. As one often has just one room that is difficult to heat on a UFH retrofit project, then this might be a good solution for just that room, while we can fit a screed or other less expensive and labour-intensive solution in the rest of the house.

Interesting video Syzmon. So with this Jupiter system what is the build up of materials to finished floor (I believe you said no screed). You also mentioned you had initially set up the wc at 0.6, so what has the user experience been over the winter and has there been any tweaks to the curve? Edit: I have just been on the Jupiter site so understand a little bit more. It would seem that the extra time needed to fit the Jupiter system is balanced out a bit by the avoidance of using wet screed/ drying time and all that marlarkey.

What do you recommend, if i thinking about UFH on existing concrete uninsulated ground floor. Semi detached 1970 house poorly insulated . Might be ready for future Heat pump. At the moment runing on gas combi boiler.

Thanks for all the information. It makes hard topics, easy to understand for a layman. And that is a gift. And I wonder if I understood correctly, that in this design every room is always roughly at the same temperature? So you won't be able to lower the temperature for 1 bedroom? Or do you do that on the manifold?

looks like 20% is not with the aluminium top layer or does that not make a difference? I have a question for my system...I have floor heating and a gas CV system and I want to test something before I switch to 100% heat pump because I am not sure if it can handle it alone. As a test I want to use the monobloc heat pump as a hot fill for the gas cv unit (installed in serie as input on the intake) ....will this be possible or will the cv system cause bottle neck problems for the monobloc circulator?

Will it be on Priority hot water ? and will the heat pump cope heating the cinder quick enough .

@urbanplumber so does the cylinder supply hot water for the house and the heating for the radiators?

fantastic video what was this job priced at what was materials and labour

Good that UFH manifold is so simply arranged and will work well worh wooden floor. How does a 40ish degree flow temp work when using LVT flooring, will damage to floor occur?

Would it have been possible to adjust for the different heat output in the kitchen by laying fewer pipes at a wider spacing in there?

What software do you use to calculate the heat loss from the building, and what external temperature do you assume vs. Internal temperature? It could be a really interesting video to see how you do the design for a typical house or a case study of a system you have designed.

A follow up to determine this board's effectiveness would be helpful! This product has the potential to resolve several incompatibility issues if it runs right.

Have I understood you correctly, that Vaillant rates its heat pumps at -7 deg C? Does it mean when calculated bivalent point for a detached building is 6,1-6,5 kW at -6/-7, a 75/6A arotherm plus should be the right choice, then? Will your system use additional heater, haven't seen any internal unit at your installation (like MEH)? Thumb up from PL.

For a low-height floor build-up, could you have used the Pro-Fix system witt XPS Panels below the trays ?l

The heatpump will run 24/7 because if the r value of the walls, or a lot of on and off I got a similar system but the pipes are covered with a Knauf dry screed system 32mm thick than wooden floor. Works well with 80w /m2 temperature 40 C . Got a 800 litre combi buffer with solar thermal booster. Stores about 40kw hot water at 60C . Enough for 4 to 6 hours . i think the lack of insulation in the walls could be challenging.

Would a uniTOWER work in that cupboard instead of making it bigger? Apart from the smaller tank capacity, would there be anything else different that would prevent using a uniTOWER?

Do you do all the wiring ,or use an electrician ?

Great video, do you prefer copper to MLCP? No joints and pre insulated sounds like a better system, why not use MLCP throughout?

Omnie do as system with pipe centres down to 50 mm I think!not sure if it is only available for screeded floors

Great job as usual but I'd have been disappointed about keeping thar radiator. 3 brick house = council house.

we have a similar system called Warmboard in North America. Stupidly expensive. I really prefer a 40mm gypsum overpour on plywood floor. Even in an old house with two layers of brick and no insulation, I could heat the space with 70w/m2 .....unless they put in stupidly big sliding doors and I have to put a radiator for added heat. I've done more than 100,000m2 of floor heating over the last 30 years....and this is in Canada with -25C outdoors. Since doing only heatpumps for the last few years, my area has not seen colder than -15C and we have to design to -21C

When followup ?

I'm surprised it wasn't just overlaid on the OSB deck... were the extra batons between the panels specified by the manufacturer? Is it to bear the load?

If it’s not a screeded floor installation how do avoid running nails into the pipe?

one thing that always confuses me, how can the temperature be managed on a room by room basis ? in my situationI I have 3 rooms and 2 of them the occupier prefers a much hotter temperature than the the other room and also the living room is preferred to be lower, how can this be resolved if there's just one manifold and now actuators ?

Would love to see Jupiter compared to Warmboard. Similar concept, different execution and I suspect different trade-offs.

Hi. I assume the radiator has been off in order to assess the output from the floor?

So crazy that even OFGEM don't know the difference between model name and model output depending on environment.

07:05: Why the switch to copper pipe? Is this a suspended timber floor... hence the joists getting in the way...?

Could you please tell us the average monthly energy bills for the houses you worked on (heat pump installations) ? Please talk about this as in the end of the day we are interested in reducing cost by installing heat pump. We need to get rid of standing charge for gas. But is it worth it? My neighbor bought mew build small house. £400 monthly bill. I have 5 bedroom house with old boiler and cylinder my average bill £200. I am interested in technology but for the better. Please please talk about bills too. Feedback is more important.

Interesting - I'm doing a bungalow renovation with solid floors. I'm contemplating an ASHP with retrofit UFH but I don't want to gain 2.5cm+ in floor height so I'm exploring having grooves for the pipe run cut into the floor. There'll obviously be no additional insulation in the floor. Any thoughts/experience of this system?

Hi, intrueging to see if Jupiter's system will deliver these outputs with 22mm timber/chipboard? What will the clients floor finish be? that will also effect the flow and floor surface temp? Have you ever considered the foiled chipboard system with a 6mm no more ply/screed board covering? always been a good system on suspended timbers where heights are an issue and no more ply gives a high thermal mass over plywood.

And under those windows, the panelling could just be an plywood backboard, some stud work and then plasterboard. Insulation was often not fitted.

What I don't understand is how the floor temp is kept to 29 degrees if the pipes are running at 43 degrees? I'm doing a screeded system with no actuators, blending valves etc and my ASHP has been designed at 48 degrees. I can't get my head around how it will work! Surely the output per square meter is limited by the 29 degrees rather than the amount of heat that can be pumped into the pipework - putting pipework closer together just means the floor temp will get higher than the manufacturers limit? My system has been designed with 200mm centers, I'm assuming for this reason. If the floor temp does end up going to high, is there anything that can be done in this situation to reduce the temp of the water going into the UFH? So many questions, so confused.

You could have installed marine grade ply in the kitchen with tiles on top instead of the screed board then the output would have been the same as the living. Albeit a little less efficient but still running at 43 flow. The radiator could’ve gone.

What is exacy plastic piping and what is mlcp ? Is uponor mlcp or plastic?

Not related to this vid specifically, but when you were discussing the h/w cylinder, I was reminded of a 'problem' I have before taking the plunge to a heat pump. I'm not a heating eng, so apols if it's a dumb question, but I'm not able to find the answer anywhere (so maybe it is really dumb!!). I live in a mid sized semi, with combi providing heat and h/w, I don't have and don't want a cylinder. I definitely don't want the expense of one. Is there a reason why something like a Stiebel Eltron couldn't be plumbed in where the boiler currently is to provide h/w. At

What I would like to know. When retrofitting underfloor pipework.The floor level is being hightend. What happens to doors. Is there a step when entering the home..

With a cascaded pair of 11kw pumps I assume you would have to have a buffer .

We're getting doing building works. What is the natural order of things - I assume from your video: * Extension and interior remodelling building works * Kitchen installation * Underfloor heating installation * Flooring installation Is this right? I'm finding it hard to find plumbers that are confident to manage wet underfloor heating and keep getting push backs to either electric underfloor or radiators - I guess this is the difference between a plumber and a heating engineer.

How can it not raise the floor level if you have a concrete floor?

Bravissimo ti scrivo da Roma Italia e sono molto curioso da come progetti i tuoi impianti io ho una pompa di calore da 8Kw ma fatto diversi anni fa. Ho 2 puffer di acqua tecnica uno da 1000 litri con un produttore istantaneo da 40l/m ed uno da 300 litri che funge da separatore idraulico che serve 2 appartamenti uno da 100 m2 ed uno da 70 m2 con tutti i gruppi di rilancio e miscelazione, perche facciamo anche freddo, ma tornassi indietro rivedrei la termoregolazione e farei l'impinto in maniera differente mi farebbe piacere mostrartelo se hai una mail ti mando un schema progettuale con delle foto.

The system design lacks a reflective membrane underside (shiny side up). I resolved a badly performing hydronic system with 50 mm pipe spacings by dropping the water table by fitting a 3m deep ditch all round the property with drains and a pit holding a float activated submersible pump with DPC between house, down ditch and onto base using geotech fleece to outer ingress side. My research harvested several people who had tried similar and achieved as much as 500% improvement. My client was very happy with the actual 3000% my strategy achieved. Initially the pump would pump with increasing delays before culminating in being a bone dry space and now never pumping proving integrity of water barrier. It sets up a more stable thermocline which once charged massively diminishes heat losses from migrating cold water under house plus in theory there should be 2.8m depth of material under house that has merely saturated moisture content and thus substantially lowers conductivity. I believe my method should be industry standard even if much lower gains of say 500% are commonplace.

Buongiorno a tutti volevo sapere come in UK considerate le pompe di calore del gruppo MIDEA, visto che stanno prendendo piede in tutta europa.

You can't just route through the joists like it's nothing. Typically a joist for ground floor would be 100mm. On an old house, you'd be really lucky for the joists to be completely intact so by routing 16mm into an already weakened joist you may be introducing substantial weakness to the floor. Also this entire system completely ignore that you may need to repair floors and use blocking/noggins to strengthen the floor. In some cases, you may actually need to sister joists. Things like that would make it a right paint to fit the pipework between the joists. Oh and best of all, those timbers are external on the bottom and internal on the top. By heating in between the timbers, you are greatly increasing the chances for warping. What deflection can this system handle? This is just a guess but what I think might happen is the aluminium will separate on deflection and then you have a sharp piece of metal right up agains your plastic pipework. Sounds like a really bad idea. Honestly, it would be much easier is clients get told that in order to use underfloor heating you have to convert suspended into solid floors. Yes it cost quite a bit but you can insulate under the slab and install a screeded system on top and be sure that 40 years from now the system will work exactly as it does today.

shame none of the wholesalers sell it

Surely a biscuit mix would give you higher output and cheaper than this system

Where is the mixing valve???

Biscuit mix would be cheaper and more powerful

Underfloor heating seems like a fad to me. Radiators are simple and effective.