Thanks and good tip on not pulling it back.

Never seen a portable Radial Arm Saw, never even saw one in real life. All the ones I've seen were table mounted.

Thanks.

Thank you, I appreciate the kind words.

Thanks Fransisco. Glad it worked for you.

Sometimes I think people get carried away. Wood expands and contracts a lot, saw blades flex depending on the rpms and cutting angle. Most woodworkers don't need 4 decimal point precision.

Thanks Paul. Glad you liked it.

Thank you.

I like it! Two cuts, half the lumber.

Unless the two long sides aren't exactly parallel.

@@HouseDoctorRay same assumption with your 2 pieces

@@JohnColgan. no he's right, because the cut offs that are being compared were referencing the same edge when it was cut. you're incorporating a variable

Thank you. I like to keep it simple.

Glad you liked it.

Thanks Garrett.

Thanks David.

Thanks and thanks for watching.

Thank you Alberto.

Thanks Ken. Happy building.

Thanks

Thanks Kevin.

True, 90.2 is probably too much for a nice picture frame or jewelry box. You can get as accurate as the width of your sled. At 12" I couldn't get a 0.0015" Feeler gauge to fit. That means my error has to be less than 0.00075" over 12". Whatever that works out to be is fine for the work I do.

@@HouseDoctorRay No, it means your error is 0.0014" or less. You assume that not being able to insert a feeler means the gap is half of the feeler, when it only means the the feeler is too thick. still, not enough to worry about, but your statement was inaccurate

Thank you.

I'm not using those Matchfit grooves to line anything up. They are just there to hold down small parts.

Thanks. You're right about aligning the blade. I remember when I first got my saw it took a long time to get it right. Every time I did the final tighten it would pull out of wack. I finally ended up setting it out of parallel then tightened the bolts and it pulled into parallel. Of course not on the first try. They used to sell offset bushings and shims for cast iron saws just to deal with that. I guess they still sell them but thankfully I haven't had to mess with it since. Even survived a move on a landscaping trailer without needing adjustment.

1/16 is an error that absolutely could cause problems in making cabinets or any number of things. This is a great video tho because it does get a degree of precision that is absolutely adequate for cabinets or most anything else. The takeaway at least for me is not accepting a 1/16 or even a 1/32. You can achieve this simply by following this excellent method. I don’t think he’s saying to accept errors of this amount but that there’s a simpler method than the 5 cut. The point isn’t only that you “you’re able to cut on it.”

@@victoryak86 Yes, accuracy is a good thing and you should try to get it as close as you can. I’ve made a few cabinets in my day, without using a crosscut sled, because they weren’t a thing back then. Off the top of my head the only pieces of a cabinet that could be cut with a sled would be the rails and styles on the cabinets and the doors, depending on their style. But generally they would only be around 2” or so. If your sled is within a 1/16” in it’s cut capacity, which depending on the size of it would be around 10”, then, and I’m not going to do the math, the accuracy in a 2” cut would be 1/5 of 1/16”. That’s pretty small. Accuracy is great, but you need to check everything and not just rely on the sled. If your blade isn’t square to the miter slots or the fence, that’s going to cause problems too. And if the edges of the piece you’re cutting aren’t perfectly parallel to each other that could throw the crosscut off. This is a “to each his own” thing. Whatever makes you happy. I just think that when there are a bunch of videos saying you need to do something or you can’t make quality stuff, some freak out and kill themselves trying to adjust tools. Anyway, happy cutting.

Thank you

I don't like the algorithm games we have to play anymore than the viewers do. The problem is us little guys have less than a second to get noticed by a viewer and maybe get a click, otherwise they're going to Izzy, Stumpy or Steve. Even as someone who does I'm guilty of the same viewer behavior, I normally go to those I've seen before and skip the others. Luckily I've found a few smaller channels that are really good like; Patrick Sullivan, Gakos, and Peter Millard. I appreciate your understanding and comment. Since you seem very knowledgeable and level headed maybe you could check out my miter saw video. It's basically the same method but it only works on the positive stops. I'm at a loss as to how to adjust the in between miter cuts like 45°. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Y6-KhNyTvruxmYE.htmlsi=vRz7Dcy-d94Emzkp

There’s a three cut method that is equally accurate to the five cut method. Have you checked that out?

Haven't heard of this method. Do you have a link to a good video or article?

@@HouseDoctorRay hey man, sure do. It’s Tom Mclaughlan of Epic Woodworking. He’s another fantastic woodworker, has a number of courses along with YT channel. He’s been at it for decades too and is definitely a master in the true sense. He has a number of articles in Fin Woodworking as well. All that said, he’s down to earth and funny and a great teacher as well. I love learning from him but also from guys like yourself and others as that’s how we can all improve. Anyway I’ll add a link for that particular video. Cheers and look forward to delving into your other content.

@victoryak86 Thanks, I'll check him out.

Thank you.

Keep in mind they are really both the same test. The 5 cut requires you make 4 cuts, cut a piece off and divide the results by 4. You are just compounding the error then dividing to get back to it. Either way works fine I like the simpler way to get the same result.

Zactly!

That's why you start with two screws. To adjust take one out and tweak it. Put a new screw next to it. The first screw will be a pivot. Once you get it square then add more screws.

@@HouseDoctorRay thanks for taking the time , cheers from australia

😂😂

I think I live in a house you built. There isn’t a square corner in the place! No smiley face here.

And cut with a chainsaw, right?

Let me know which houses you built, I'll make sure NOT to buy them.

😂👍🏻

Yes. The 2 cut method is just a way to verify it's cutting properly.

It's still not as accurate even when you do that. The best way is to actually perform cuts and measure.

It's not easy to set a square accurately against the blade because the teeth are set and may not be set all the same amount. Easier is to set the square against the miter groove (assuming that your blade is aligned with the groove).

@@markanderson2904 That's a good point, although if you have a conventional sled it will cover up the miter grooves, so you can't really do this very well

@@researchandbuild1751 That's a good piont. Maybe could use the fence instead of the groove or in addition to the blade.

3/4". Doesn't matter what kind as long as it's flat and slides easily.

@@HouseDoctorRay thanks. Baltic birch is so expensive, I was wondering if I could use a less expensive type of plywood.

I used sanded pine. You just have to pick through it to find a good sheet. Sometimes you can find a sheet that isn't full of knots on the back. You should sand the bottom to 220 and put polyurethane then wax so it slides nicely. I also use spray silicone even though it supposedly can interfere with the finish on your projects. Just wipe it up really well.

Except for the fact that many of them are not exactly 90 degrees! You mihgt be surprised at how far off some of them are, especially the ones you buy from the big box stores.

Unfortunately you are right.

Absolutely. Dumaflatchies normally connect to the whoseewhatsits.

Just so long as the overhead kerbangulator shaft doesnt get in the way?

Yes, but it doesn't apply with Pfetzer valves.

Comes out a little fast but that's because it's Great Value mustard. Check this out. kzfaq.infocBdclPjxFwk?si=qJ4kFT3TvQPFiXIe

Thanks!

You have a 10' table saw sled?

@@HouseDoctorRay sliding table saw, scmi hydro 3200

the 5 cut method was popularized by the european companies making these saws for calibrating the crosscut fences. its even illustrated in italian in my user manual.

This is a perfect example of why the phrase “ close enough for woodworking “ is just plain ignorant . If the phrase was true there wouldn’t be $10000 sliding table saws. It all depends on how accurate you want to work, how you work and what you are building.You have to be pretty ignorant to think that other people don’t work to higher tolerances. One guy is happy with drawers that rattle in there openings the next guy relies on slides and the next guy wants drawers that close on a cushion of air,and spends days or weeks fitting them. No one has the right to say one is right and one is wrong. There are flaws in both the way he built the sled and in the way he measured the error. He is assuming the fence is flat( it probably isn’t it should have been glued up in cauls) with his method of cutting 2 boards of similar width he is registering over a small area of the fence. By using the 5 cut method with a rectangular board, you are referencing over a couple areas of the fence. And by measuring the error using the fence as the reference it is very possible the fence is cancelling out some of the error. The 5 cut method measures the results without the fence influencing anything. His method is fine for a lot of woodworkers but a lot of high end woodworkers will find it unacceptable.I once built a crosscut sled using an aluminum t track extrusion assuming it was pretty flat. The slight difference in squareness depending on the length of the part drove me crazy, even though I squared the ends on a shooting board. Again you have to be pretty ignorant to say”close enough for woodworking” BTW with a big slider I assume you build high end cabinets.

Are you a framer or a plumber?

@@HouseDoctorRay Pro DIY'er😆

Dude! That sounds like a new video. Thanks.

Wow. Duh. Why didn't I think of that?!

That would be a great short cut but how would you decide on which way or how much to correct the angle. I like the two cut. Simple and easy on the brain. If you correct the wrong way then you will know to correct the other direction.

They're both doing the same thing. With the 5 cut method you just keep rotating the board. This quadruples the error. Then you divide by 4, and use a digital caliper.

Try it Tim and you'll see your gap gets worse.

To solve puzzles like this, I like to exaggerate the difference in my head. You could even lay a sheet of paper on a table to mock it up. So, let's say the blade side of your left piece had a gap of two inches at the top. Which way would you need to move the left side of the fence to square it? For some reason, tiny gaps somehow mess with your head. But with big ones, the solution is obvious.

@@MjPersonal Good idea! That is exactly what I did. I created an error of 45 degrees with the left side moved forward. This creates a large gap at the front of the board. So to correct it i have to move the left side backward. But, i could be wrong. Maybe i need to use my other Left. LOL

If the gap is on the bottom you have to move the fence "upward". Imagine your left piece is tilted "to the left" a bit, when you cut it, the bottom of the piece will have more taken off. Thus creating a "gap " at the bottom..meaning you have to push the fence forward to correct for that gap..

If you analyze the 5 cut it is the same test only cutting 4 times plus your measuring strip. That is why you need to divide the difference by four. The 2 cut will get the same accuracy. The only way to make either method more accurate is to use a bigger test board.

@@HouseDoctorRay I don't think so, the 5 cuts are for accumulating error. If it is a perfect 90 degrees, then the cut sample should be the same width at both ends. This video has a demonstration of cutting out unequal width kzfaq.info/get/bejne/b8CjY72b27vYlas.html&ab_channel=SavvasPapasavva

@@HouseDoctorRay Five cut method is attempting to magnify the error so you can see it easier, that is really the core of it. The 2 cut method works fine if you have a long piece and are good with your eyes (if you can see gaps). Five cut method can be done with shorter pieces since it magnifies the error.

@@HouseDoctorRayWhile the 2 cut method "will get the same accuracy", correctly measuring the "inaccuracy" of the 2 cut is significantly more difficult. The 2 cut is still a great method for many (most?) woodworkers but you can't really compare the accuracy of the 2 methods. It's a case of "good enough for government work" vs. "precise" but GEFGW is all most hobbyist woodworkers are looking for.

@@garrettswoodworx1873what do you expect from someone that says “good enough for woodworking “ obviously not concerned with quality work. Or precision.Just “ good enough”

I was thinking about getting an LED ring light. What do you think? I have a few lights on stands but they're too much trouble.

Actually the 5 cut method amplifies the error by 4 which is why you divide by 4 at the end. Error x 4 ÷ 4 = Error x 2 ÷ 2 They're the same, the only difference is how you measure the error.

A feeler gauge is just as, if not more, accurate than calipers. The two methods are essentially the same. With the 5 cut you quadruple the error then divide by 4. The 2 cut you double the error and divide by two. The only difference is which steel measuring instrument you put against relatively soft plywood. You do have the option with the 2 cut of not measuring anything and tweaking the fence until you have no gap. If you feel the need to use the 5 cut that's great. It's not necessary for me and the kind of work I do.