The high mileage oils offer no benefit, and some high mileage oils actually get decertified for some specs due to them being high mileage, with whatever additives that entails, dexos being one of those certs. It had also been said that VCT solenoids may be sludged by extended use of high milage oil.

I had no problems with mobile one high mileage. Some people put stuff they shouldn't be using

@@janielramirez9181 i had 2 cars go 350.000 miles and all went well. Also sold them still running.

@@Peter-od7op good

They're not seal swelling additives. They are seal reconditioning additives. So when a seal is old, dried out and flattening. If you bring it back up a bit it may become more plump than it was. As is the characteristics of rubber. Silicone doesn't break down the same as rubber nor is it restored by the same processes. Anyway, i hate when people use the term swelling as if its creating something abnormal or different than what was there. It simply attempts to both keep seals n that good but also does a half assed attempt at reconditioning thus the reason u dont see a diff on a brand new seal because it doesn't swell anything if its in brand new or good condition. It will only moderately over time attempt to restore and condition. Its like moisturizing old leather or something ya know. Your not changing it, just attempting to make it better.

@Prime Artemis Well based on being a Master Certified Diesel Technician high mileage oil does nothing but make you feel better. If anything it swells seals and will eventually cause them to fail.

@Prime Artemis Drain and fill. 50k or 5yrs. Newer vehicles have longer intervals. You may be under the milage but if that's the original trans fluid I would change it.

@Prime Artemis There have been reports of flushing service circulating debris inside the trans and causing failure. I have no first hand knowledge tho, just something I heard about.

Thats what I was thinking loo

Facts 🙏

Tell me about. He did this on purpose to make u watch it

I played it at 1.75 speed

Remember this when you're laying in a hospital bed on the last days of your life. Remember how you spent those 5 minutes of your life when just about everything was going smoothly...

I use the High Mileage every third oil change. I don't believe the engine constantly needs seal conditioners. Sometimes I will put one quart in with 4 quarts of non high Mileage oil. I currently have 288,600 miles on the engine.

That’s what I do. Several extra dollars at every oil change but will save me hundreds of dollars down the road.

I've never used high milage oil. If a seal is leaking, just replace it. Most seals aren't too hard to replace.

@@deutsch-amerikanisch8281 the thing is that high mileage engine oils are extra insurance to protect seals BEFORE they fail, but I get your point

Same here with my Envoy 310k and still kicking.

350k? wow, i have a question, please help me. Is it true that you have to use premium gasoline so that your cars last longer? Or your cars have lasted so long on regular gasoline?

@@kuul-animations2810 I've never used premium. Just use good oil and change it regularly, all other fluids too. And dont hot rod. My previous truck was sold with almost half a million miles on it. It still runs today.

@@kuul-animations2810 Premium Gasoline dosen't help all that much. It's just more oxygenated, but a quality gasoline definitely helps. Like a major brand. Not just Premium. I hardly ever use budget gasolines. The reason is those added cleaning agents that keeps your plugs, valves, and throttle body cleaner longer. I didn't have to clean my throttle body until around 210k miles. My plugs stay cleaner as well. Budget gasoline isn't as clean so you get those deposits that lead to other problems. In the end. It costs you less down the road.

Sounds like my kinda rigs Steve! Lol I've got 239,000 on my F150 and 160,000 on my mini van

Exactly this test his way to non-scientific

Test was for swelling, not wear/how well the oil lubricates

Also it does not take into account heat cycles, cold start to hot and back.

Well put

high mileage has other functions in certain brands like sludge removal and i find it to be slightly better. i dont like pure synthetic it tends to burn up and become thin as well versus conventional, the engine may have been poor but still i think having the more resilient oil will protect your engine better in a daily driver.

And if you never used HM oil you still may not have had any issues.

I use GTX HM 15w50 in my Merc M104 engine which are famous for leaking all the way to a million miles. It drastically reduced the drips on my garage floor compared to the Diesel 15w50 I was running before it, despite the diesel oil being quite a bit thicker (at the thicker end of 50 weight vs thinner end for the GTX)

It’s a Honda.

Holy crap lol hopefully my k24 tsx goes that long!

Это не большой пробег

He must be a mechanic and dont have a vehicle to fix thanks to mobile 1 high millage..😂😂😂😂

Plus fuel and metal particle additives that naturally occur during engine operations and loads. Good point!

And no possible friction from moving parts plus there is no stress on these seals.

I've argued the exact same thing just based on intuition. People talk about dino (conventional) oil like it is some poorly engineered product. Actually, out of the container fresh, it is just about as good as synthetic oil. It just breaks down sooner. I driver an import with a 1990s-era bimetal (cast iron block/alloy head) engine. I use conventional oil and change it preferably around 2500 miles. I don't have to worry about how the oil holds contaminants over a long interval because they are just not there in the first place. Conventional is getting harder to get, at least at a significantly lower price. I'll probably switch to semi-synthetic and increase the oil change interval by 500 miles. An oil change at home still costs me less than $15.

@@anonymike8280 most 5ws have to be semi synthetic anyways to hit the new API SP

@@nicholasr7987 It actually is getting difficult to get dino oil at any reduction in price compared to semisynthetic or even the low end of synthetics. At Walmart right now, Chevron Supreme $14.44 for five quarts, Quaker All-Mileage Semi 5W-30 $14.97 for five quarts. There's no beef left to go after. You can get low-end synthetic for $3 and change a quart now.

@@anonymike8280 that has everything to do with big oil who is vertically integrated from pulling out if earth, refining, all the way to finish lube. Nobody is using group 4s in their everyday syns. Big oil is trying to displace house brands with their own cheap products using supply shortages, and additive price increases. They want the small blenders out of the way for good.

@@anonymike8280 Using synthetic blend oil (part dino, part synthetic) makes about as much sense to me as mixing Johnny Walker Black with cheap rot gut scotch 50-50 to save money. Sure looks like a marketing gimmick so they can say they're offering the benefits of synthetic at a lower price. You get what you pay for.

😂😂😂😂😂

Yes one was made on a friday! The other was made on monday after superbowl sunday!

How did he get difference in thickness of the ring, but the inner and outer diameters are equal? It’s either a measuring error or minute difference in different parts of the ring.

@@robertt9342 Measuring by hand is not exact. Two hundredths of a millimeter is a tiny difference.

Yep, every manufacturer has tolerances, and one as ratty as Honda has wide tolerances. It’s why 1 will run for close to a quarter million miles and the other 700,000 from the same production run are burning oil by 20,000 miles and rebuilt multiple times by the time they hit 200,000 miles. Shity seals seems like par for the course.

@@308dad8 I assume this is sarcasm? Honda makes more internal combustion engines internationally than anyone period. You think it got that way by making poor quality products?

How is it that the ID and OD are identical but the width of the ring is different?

The rubber is flexible, how do you measure it? If you measure it hot it will be larger cold smaller. And the part that I made varied by just rubbing it on your pant leg. The friction heated it up enough to enlarge it. Plus you mention the original mfg. has a range of tolerance. Unless you can measure the durometer of the rubber or degredation caused by the chemicals your test is worthless.

@@sr_spongebob calipers aren't the best tool if you want more accuracy than you see in the video

Love this comment.

I agree with you Chris, CNC machinist here, I have top notch calipers in my hands at least 30 times per day depending on which part I am running. Usually way more, most people can’t even get things squared up properly for a correct measurement.

Except some of the swelling agents, DO swell it which is the mechanism behind which some products claim to slow if not stop leaks. Softening by itself, doesn't slow leaks, since you'd still have the same tolerance/measurement difference that allows the oil to seep past.

@@stinkycheese804 The softening allows the oil pressure inside the engine to reseal against leaks. Most modern engines (most anything made after ~1995) don't use the old rubber seals that had hardening issues, anyway...

@@looncraz oil is pretty high tech. They're generally not going to put something in the oil that is completely useless. I think I've even seen bottle of high milage oil "for older vehicles" but don't remember who made it.

Oil swells rubber. It’s why used car salesmen oil down sunroof, t top and targa top seals before showing a car. Temporarily stops the seals leaking and sometimes even hides gouges in the rubber that are visible when it’s dried out. If it’s rubber and it’s shiny it’s got oil on it especially if it’s used. Which oil is irrelevant. It’s not always crooked because it used to be common practice as part of regular maintenance that when you washed and vacuumed the car you wiped all seals (doors, windows, sunroof, etc) with some oil product or other. Can used Marvel Mystery Oil, or Armor All or Vaseline it just needs to be liquid at relatively low temperatures so it’ll soak into the rubber. Even tire shine will do it to some degree.

@@looncraz Whats your opinion about Castrol GTX which is reasonably priced and claims to a have better cleaning effect and my car is 2014. Toyota, Is the cleaning agent then not going to be more detrimental to the seals but for modern oil burning piston problems on most makes these days but better at keeping the rings from clogging up!?

You claim that, but my response to your logic is “….yet”. Chemistry is real and full synthetic and blend are not the same.

@@CenobiteBeldar Point out where I used the word "blend". High Mileage oil is also available in full synthetic.

Thank you! said perfectly.

Well. Bc he did the test we can see that this may be the case. W/o science and theories we have a world full of cavemen

The only thing he was testing was the claim that using high mileage oil in a new engine will cause the seals to swell. This is farm from scientific, but it was never intended to simulate the 5 years at 15k miles per year that mention.

Same with my 260k miler Tundra.. it ran pretty smooth after I used that hi mile Mobile1

ALL synthetic motor oils contain detergents. All of them.

200k? wow, i have a question, please help me. Is it true that you have to use premium gasoline so that your cars last longer? Or your cars have lasted so long on regular gasoline?

@@kuul-animations2810 NOOOOO. dont do it .. youre just wasting money

@@kuul-animations2810 changing oil regularly IS no secret formula for long mileage

Except that's what it does, any that claim to reduce leaks. "Youthful" and "strong" read more like marketing gobbledegook, are not engineering terms applicable to oil seal performance. The bottom line is they necessarily have a chemical that change the molecular composition of the seal and if engineers wanted a different molecular composition on a new seal, they would have picked a different seal, or size when it swells them.

How about a grandma?

Thats pretty impressive considering High Mileage oil has not been around for 20 years.

@@overlordp.3758 Yeah, Just like you.

@@avian7999 hahaha..

Never seen a 3.7 get much farther than that

Those pesky Toyota's

I just changed oil in my 2002 GMC Envoy. 321k. I switched to Valvoline HM synthetic blend around 170k. I just replaced the Variable Valve Solenoid this week. It looked good with no build up. Its started leaking into the connector. That's it. I also use Lucas additive.

That doesn't mean you would have had issues if you never used HM oil.

Jose, These seals appear to be made of Viton rubber vs Black Nitrile. Nitrile has that tendency to get brittle early on. Wherever possible, I replace and and all O-Rings and seals to Viton. You pay a premium price for Viton, but it is superior!

Right on Brother👍👍

Castrol guy here also

Is that a new Cuban oil?

It literally says to prevent leaks

@@stevofla239 prevent, not fix

I thought he was going to heat each of the seals for 24 hours every other day. The seals go through heat cycles every day and vibration also, and I think this test provides very little information.

I agree heating it once proves absolutely nothing

I use Super Tech synthetic and just got back an oil analysis yesterday. The results show very low levels of metals that would indicate wear. No reason to use anything else I change the oil every 5,000 miles but I change the filter every 10,000 using a Fram Ultra filter rated for 20,000 miles.

@@masterofnone1808 I hear ya. Your better off getting the cheap fram and replacing it every oil change instead. That's my honest opinion. The new oil is going to pick up contaminants from used oil filter. Just get the cheaper one at half the price every oil change.

@@masterofnone1808 you'll notice your oil is already discolored right after a change with a used oil filter. I wouldnt do that. Buy a cheap one every oil change. Your way better off.

@@MrSocko-vn7fw I have a cartridge filter and when I change my oil even though I don't always change the filter, I still drain the old oil out of the oil filter housing. Total insolubles on my oil analysis was only 0.2 ppm indicating that the filter was still doing it's job.

he is trying to see if it hurts new cars

Very interesting advice. If you don't mind, can you explain how to clean the engine and engine bay?? Thanks for sharing your experience and expertise! 👍🏻

I agree because both oils actually contain seal swelling agents, though the high mileage has a higher level of swelling agents. The varnish being worse with high mileage oil is the only issue for me. I believe the buildup thats cleaned causing leaks isn't as bad as what is often said. Especially when using a good quality synthetic. Thanks for sharing all the great information. I love to learn what others have experienced. Kindness is key.

I think this happened to my engine. I switched from Castrol Edge to M1 HM and then a leak developed. And I can tell the oil does well at cleaning the engine because before the edge would practically look no different from when it was new but the Mobil 1 would get darker rather quickly to the point you can see black flecks on the dipstick.

Most high detergent synthetics will make old engine which was run on dino leak, incl. mine. But once friend's customer decided to change oil him self, bought CT brand 5w-20 synthetic and s..t happened. The car was 2010's Accord with the infamous 2.4L in line 4, and they're known for oil consumption. Anyway, normally the engine run using Honda OEM oil, a used maybe half liter every oil change at 6k miles (10k km), with no leaks. So 2k miles after the DIY oil change the RED Oil Pressure light comes ON, and the engine is dry. I don't know if he didn't tighten the filter, but assume he did. Oil leaked via crank seals since the engine was wet underneath and some of it was probably consumed during the combustion. Since then it consumes 2-2.5L per oil change. I also had similar situation with CT brand synthetic - the dipstick was bone dry after 1k miles. It leaked mainly via rear main. I added regular bottle of Castrol GTX and Honda OEM and lucky for me it stopped leaking. Friend of mine used LiquiMoly 5w-40 in his older Odyssey because it controlled the leaks - it went over 300k in our Rust Belt when he sold it to some home improvement guy. Not all oils are formulated equally.

Unless it's the chrysler 4.7 v8, then change every 3,000

@Prime Artemis You got it! Happy motoring.

If you're not a mechanic, do not own a Northstar. See: The Car Wizard.

The North Star engine was one of the worst engines produced. The famous North Star engine leak usually starts around 65,000 to 70,000 MI.

That's the problem. The gunk was holding it all together.😅

@@FlyingHighInAC that's exactly what I was thinking! Gunked up any holes or around the seals...😂

@@FlyingHighInAC . It might be more of an issue with pennzoil synthetic and not because of high mileage, I had the same experience using pennzoil on a 2000 Honda civic and a 98 Toyota camry, the civic was just leaking a little before I used pennzoil but the camry wasn't even leaking, it could be that pennzoil has more detergents that's why is rated higher than most synthetics, I rather just stay away from it. But the fact remains if you keep up with your oil changes, you will be OK with just regular synthetic I used the supertech high mileage on a 2008 Toyota corolla that I bought a year ago, car didn't have leaks when I bought it at 125 thousand miles is now at 165 thousand miles because I use it for my food delivery job and what impresses me the most that it did have an oil consumption issue of about 12 Oz. In between oil changes and I have always changed the oil every 5 thousand miles with high mileage supertech synthetic from Walmart and I just noticed that in the last 2 oil changes the level of the oil never went down, the little bit of oil consumption stopped completely and I believe it happened because I've done the oil changes in timely manner the oil still looks pretty clean after 5 thousand miles, this car only had one previous owner when I bought it and he did take care of it but I'm doing even better myself. But i I might just start using the supertech synthetic which is the new advanced full synthetic from supertech because my concern with high mileage oils is that the seal additives can rejuvenate the seals, that sounds good but if it swells up the seals that could be bad too. That's why the most important thing is change the oil at the proper intervals clean oil won't dry up the seals.

I understand that there was a problem decades ago but not now.

I did AT205 .. it worked for me ... I did lucas oil and nothing ...

You have a leak, because you have a leak. Oil doesn't cause leaks, it doesn't stop leaks. Certain additives can extend the life of seals, but everything wears out. The most common leaks early on are from the valve cover and the oil pan. Of you have a remote oil cooler, those lines eventually swell and leak. If it's rubber, it will need replacement. Sludge is dangerous because it can build up and cause oil starvation issues. Synthetic oil doesn't sludge, and it can even clean sludge out over time. Any leaks that developed, aren't from the oil, they were there already.

Hoy cambie el haceite, tengo 78,000 millas, y le heche mobil1 hi millage y filtro mobil 1.

Yea

That's great and it's definitely beneficial.

Guess I should try it. My car has 150k and has been burning oil for about 3 or 4 years now. Also puff blue smoke on cold start up. Been using regular oil all its life.

@Jon Doe thanks, I’ll give it a whirl

I love M1 too, it clean my 240k ml engine and keep running without burning oil and no oil leaks..

How do you know that? I've put over 200,000 miles on a few cars and never had oil leaks or oil burning issues.

That stuff is amazing!! I had a power steering rack leak for about a year, it was just pouring out. As soon as I added AT 205 reseal it stopped completely. And it is still holding up 5 months later without adding a drop of power steering fluid. Truly remarkable

AT205 is awesome but I can’t find the stuff anywhere. It’s been weeks!

Any updates on the change if you made it? I used high mileage oil for the first time a few months ago and consider switching back to normal as well.

No perceived difference so far. Will be trying the regular oil from Fram and a Wix oil filter next oil change.

I always thought the high mileage thing was just a gimmick. I’ve never used it in my life and all my integras hit over 200k and my Toyota and Isuzu both have about 170k on them.

lol you're gonna let some guy on youtube change your mind about a really good oil

Just add sugar, im joking.

🤣

There's a video where a guy did his family member a favor and cleaned and reseasoned a cast iron skillet for them. Only problem was he used motor oil to season it when he was done. Looked nice.

@@headpainter1 it is his secret spice, it had flavor!

And nothing has changed in 50+ years.